If you intend to store it between seasons, gun oil is as good a choice or better than 3-in-1. Remove it from the sheath while storing it, because there are salts and acidic compounds introduced to the leather during the tanning process that promote oxidation.
For sharpening, a thin oil will serve you well. I use honing oil, which is thinner than gun oil, and haven't tried Clay's suggestion of transmission fluid, but I have more than enough of that in the garage and I'll try that next time.
One of the best reasons to sign in...I frequently learn something.
For gun oil, I use CLP and variants, the military uses it because of it's multipurpose, it preserves metal surface so I don't see why you can't use it on knives. But me personally, I just put a light coat of petroleum jelly on my blades [my knives are coated and only have the sharpened edge exposed]. In the field you can just use your common chap-stick in place of the petroleum jelly. The light coat will cover and protect the surface from oxidation will in storage or in the sheath [until you start cutting].
I'm just an old, fat country boy. I carry an older Case in my pocket. It is regularly scrubbed down with warm soapy water and a Scotch-brite scrubber. Sharpened on a Norton carborundum stone then lubed with just a touch of EVOO. Olive oil, that is!
If I'm peeling an apple or potato, I really don't want to taste 3-in-1 or Hoppe's!
If you intend to store it between seasons, gun oil is as good a choice or better than 3-in-1. Remove it from the sheath while storing it, because there are salts and acidic compounds introduced to the leather during the tanning process that promote oxidation.
For sharpening, a thin oil will serve you well. I use honing oil, which is thinner than gun oil, and haven't tried Clay's suggestion of transmission fluid, but I have more than enough of that in the garage and I'll try that next time.
One of the best reasons to sign in...I frequently learn something.
I'm just an old, fat country boy. I carry an older Case in my pocket. It is regularly scrubbed down with warm soapy water and a Scotch-brite scrubber. Sharpened on a Norton carborundum stone then lubed with just a touch of EVOO. Olive oil, that is!
If I'm peeling an apple or potato, I really don't want to taste 3-in-1 or Hoppe's!
For gun oil, I use CLP and variants, the military uses it because of it's multipurpose, it preserves metal surface so I don't see why you can't use it on knives. But me personally, I just put a light coat of petroleum jelly on my blades [my knives are coated and only have the sharpened edge exposed]. In the field you can just use your common chap-stick in place of the petroleum jelly. The light coat will cover and protect the surface from oxidation will in storage or in the sheath [until you start cutting].
Answers (9)
i use gun oil to get the rust off my knife blade and it works pretty good
Being a Case XX collector, I use their wet stone product, designed for putting on an edge.
Use Outers' for mechanisms and barrel.
I have been using it for years to protect, lubricate and sharpen my knives. Pretty much any kind works for me.
If your sharpening it, automatic transmission fluid works great in a pinch!
Gun oil has rust-inhibiting properties that ordinary lubricating oils do not. If your knife is a folder, don't forget to "oil the joint."
If you intend to store it between seasons, gun oil is as good a choice or better than 3-in-1. Remove it from the sheath while storing it, because there are salts and acidic compounds introduced to the leather during the tanning process that promote oxidation.
For sharpening, a thin oil will serve you well. I use honing oil, which is thinner than gun oil, and haven't tried Clay's suggestion of transmission fluid, but I have more than enough of that in the garage and I'll try that next time.
One of the best reasons to sign in...I frequently learn something.
gun oil is fine, i use 3&1 oil on carbon steal blades.
For gun oil, I use CLP and variants, the military uses it because of it's multipurpose, it preserves metal surface so I don't see why you can't use it on knives. But me personally, I just put a light coat of petroleum jelly on my blades [my knives are coated and only have the sharpened edge exposed]. In the field you can just use your common chap-stick in place of the petroleum jelly. The light coat will cover and protect the surface from oxidation will in storage or in the sheath [until you start cutting].
I'm just an old, fat country boy. I carry an older Case in my pocket. It is regularly scrubbed down with warm soapy water and a Scotch-brite scrubber. Sharpened on a Norton carborundum stone then lubed with just a touch of EVOO. Olive oil, that is!
If I'm peeling an apple or potato, I really don't want to taste 3-in-1 or Hoppe's!
Bubba
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i use gun oil to get the rust off my knife blade and it works pretty good
If you intend to store it between seasons, gun oil is as good a choice or better than 3-in-1. Remove it from the sheath while storing it, because there are salts and acidic compounds introduced to the leather during the tanning process that promote oxidation.
For sharpening, a thin oil will serve you well. I use honing oil, which is thinner than gun oil, and haven't tried Clay's suggestion of transmission fluid, but I have more than enough of that in the garage and I'll try that next time.
One of the best reasons to sign in...I frequently learn something.
I have been using it for years to protect, lubricate and sharpen my knives. Pretty much any kind works for me.
Gun oil has rust-inhibiting properties that ordinary lubricating oils do not. If your knife is a folder, don't forget to "oil the joint."
I'm just an old, fat country boy. I carry an older Case in my pocket. It is regularly scrubbed down with warm soapy water and a Scotch-brite scrubber. Sharpened on a Norton carborundum stone then lubed with just a touch of EVOO. Olive oil, that is!
If I'm peeling an apple or potato, I really don't want to taste 3-in-1 or Hoppe's!
Bubba
Being a Case XX collector, I use their wet stone product, designed for putting on an edge.
Use Outers' for mechanisms and barrel.
gun oil is fine, i use 3&1 oil on carbon steal blades.
For gun oil, I use CLP and variants, the military uses it because of it's multipurpose, it preserves metal surface so I don't see why you can't use it on knives. But me personally, I just put a light coat of petroleum jelly on my blades [my knives are coated and only have the sharpened edge exposed]. In the field you can just use your common chap-stick in place of the petroleum jelly. The light coat will cover and protect the surface from oxidation will in storage or in the sheath [until you start cutting].
If your sharpening it, automatic transmission fluid works great in a pinch!
Post an Answer