I don't worry about it. Follow the manual directions for die, powder etc., for the shell your trying to load. Personally I have always, always had better reloads using Winchester hulls and wads. Always!
Read the reloading manual and go by it. JMO
BTW,
MLH, for some reason I always get the best loads using 7/8 and 1 ounce loads, after that in a 12 ga 1 1/8 is all I can do. Any bigger seems to pucker the crimp out, more so for the Rem hulls. That's why I like Win. And Win. hulls last longer.
I'm very sorry for being a big mouth but I keep remembering things. When you buy hulls and if you choose Win buy the Win AA. The Win AA+ is a good hull but it won't last as long, at least 2 reloads less. I think this is attributed to higher velocities/pressures of the plus loads.
Same as Jim in Mo. I use the coordinated loads and wads and never change the setting. Seems to work fine with no sign of pressure problems or pop open crimps.
I seem to have the best luck with about 35 lbs of wad pressure. With some loads I have to add a thin felt wad to the bottom of the shot cup to get the crimp tight enough. Generally though if the components are matched correctly the crimp is correct and dosen't need any "fussing". If you follow the directions in the Lyman Shotshell reloading manual using the wad, hull, charge combination there it will work perfectly.
If you have a reloading tool like a Mec. there is no need to worry about pressures. Bring the arm down, and load the components. Remember, you have to have the right hulls for the components you are using. Some hulls have more loading capacity than other hulls. That is why I stuck with AA Winchester low brass hulls. I could load a light l oz. load using the right powder, primer, and wad height size, and also load a hard hitting 1 3/8 oz. game bird load with a high fps load speed. When finished loading your components in the right hull you should get a good crimp, or somethin ain't right...hulls can get worn out, and not take a good crimp as well.
I don't worry about it. Follow the manual directions for die, powder etc., for the shell your trying to load. Personally I have always, always had better reloads using Winchester hulls and wads. Always!
Read the reloading manual and go by it. JMO
BTW,
MLH, for some reason I always get the best loads using 7/8 and 1 ounce loads, after that in a 12 ga 1 1/8 is all I can do. Any bigger seems to pucker the crimp out, more so for the Rem hulls. That's why I like Win. And Win. hulls last longer.
I'm very sorry for being a big mouth but I keep remembering things. When you buy hulls and if you choose Win buy the Win AA. The Win AA+ is a good hull but it won't last as long, at least 2 reloads less. I think this is attributed to higher velocities/pressures of the plus loads.
Same as Jim in Mo. I use the coordinated loads and wads and never change the setting. Seems to work fine with no sign of pressure problems or pop open crimps.
I seem to have the best luck with about 35 lbs of wad pressure. With some loads I have to add a thin felt wad to the bottom of the shot cup to get the crimp tight enough. Generally though if the components are matched correctly the crimp is correct and dosen't need any "fussing". If you follow the directions in the Lyman Shotshell reloading manual using the wad, hull, charge combination there it will work perfectly.
If you have a reloading tool like a Mec. there is no need to worry about pressures. Bring the arm down, and load the components. Remember, you have to have the right hulls for the components you are using. Some hulls have more loading capacity than other hulls. That is why I stuck with AA Winchester low brass hulls. I could load a light l oz. load using the right powder, primer, and wad height size, and also load a hard hitting 1 3/8 oz. game bird load with a high fps load speed. When finished loading your components in the right hull you should get a good crimp, or somethin ain't right...hulls can get worn out, and not take a good crimp as well.
Answers (6)
I don't worry about it. Follow the manual directions for die, powder etc., for the shell your trying to load. Personally I have always, always had better reloads using Winchester hulls and wads. Always!
Read the reloading manual and go by it. JMO
BTW,
MLH, for some reason I always get the best loads using 7/8 and 1 ounce loads, after that in a 12 ga 1 1/8 is all I can do. Any bigger seems to pucker the crimp out, more so for the Rem hulls. That's why I like Win. And Win. hulls last longer.
I'm very sorry for being a big mouth but I keep remembering things. When you buy hulls and if you choose Win buy the Win AA. The Win AA+ is a good hull but it won't last as long, at least 2 reloads less. I think this is attributed to higher velocities/pressures of the plus loads.
Same as Jim in Mo. I use the coordinated loads and wads and never change the setting. Seems to work fine with no sign of pressure problems or pop open crimps.
I seem to have the best luck with about 35 lbs of wad pressure. With some loads I have to add a thin felt wad to the bottom of the shot cup to get the crimp tight enough. Generally though if the components are matched correctly the crimp is correct and dosen't need any "fussing". If you follow the directions in the Lyman Shotshell reloading manual using the wad, hull, charge combination there it will work perfectly.
If you have a reloading tool like a Mec. there is no need to worry about pressures. Bring the arm down, and load the components. Remember, you have to have the right hulls for the components you are using. Some hulls have more loading capacity than other hulls. That is why I stuck with AA Winchester low brass hulls. I could load a light l oz. load using the right powder, primer, and wad height size, and also load a hard hitting 1 3/8 oz. game bird load with a high fps load speed. When finished loading your components in the right hull you should get a good crimp, or somethin ain't right...hulls can get worn out, and not take a good crimp as well.
Post an Answer
I don't worry about it. Follow the manual directions for die, powder etc., for the shell your trying to load. Personally I have always, always had better reloads using Winchester hulls and wads. Always!
Read the reloading manual and go by it. JMO
BTW,
MLH, for some reason I always get the best loads using 7/8 and 1 ounce loads, after that in a 12 ga 1 1/8 is all I can do. Any bigger seems to pucker the crimp out, more so for the Rem hulls. That's why I like Win. And Win. hulls last longer.
I'm very sorry for being a big mouth but I keep remembering things. When you buy hulls and if you choose Win buy the Win AA. The Win AA+ is a good hull but it won't last as long, at least 2 reloads less. I think this is attributed to higher velocities/pressures of the plus loads.
Same as Jim in Mo. I use the coordinated loads and wads and never change the setting. Seems to work fine with no sign of pressure problems or pop open crimps.
I seem to have the best luck with about 35 lbs of wad pressure. With some loads I have to add a thin felt wad to the bottom of the shot cup to get the crimp tight enough. Generally though if the components are matched correctly the crimp is correct and dosen't need any "fussing". If you follow the directions in the Lyman Shotshell reloading manual using the wad, hull, charge combination there it will work perfectly.
If you have a reloading tool like a Mec. there is no need to worry about pressures. Bring the arm down, and load the components. Remember, you have to have the right hulls for the components you are using. Some hulls have more loading capacity than other hulls. That is why I stuck with AA Winchester low brass hulls. I could load a light l oz. load using the right powder, primer, and wad height size, and also load a hard hitting 1 3/8 oz. game bird load with a high fps load speed. When finished loading your components in the right hull you should get a good crimp, or somethin ain't right...hulls can get worn out, and not take a good crimp as well.
Post an Answer