Q:
What the heck!!! As some of you know I bought a Kimber Custom II about a week ago and have only shot it once, but today when I pulled out of its case and pulled the slide back I noticed that it had developed rust spots on the outside of the barrel. I don't know how it got these since it has only been stored in the box that came in, I have kept it dry, and have not touched the barrel. What do I do?
Question by Dallas A. McWhorter. Uploaded on May 19, 2013
Answers (18)
Use 0000 steel wool to eliminate the surface rust. There may be some discoloration, but it won't affect function. Lube lightly and keep it scrupulously clean.
Never, EVER store a gun in a case! ESPECIALLY a case that is cloth or foam lined.
Store guns in open air or a gun safe.
Even in a case, as the metal warms and cools, condensation forms on the outside, just like a tea glass on a summer day. The cloth/foam absorbs the moisture and holds it against the gun. Basically like storing a gun wrapped in a wet sponge!
Then follow EJP's advice! Three or four ought steel wool and a squirt of WD-40. Wipe with a clean, dry rag.
For tight corners/spots, wrap a small piece of steel wool (ala Q-tip) a match stick or other small stick. Works well in tight spots.
You did not say how you cleaned it before you put it away after using it last, but i would not follow that procedure again. I would do what Ed and FirstBubba said and then instead of WD-40 i would use Sheath, a penetrating oil that is thinner than weasel piss to wipe it down for storage. Store in a low or lower humidity location if possible. Before use again i would oil the required places with Remington Oil with a occasional re application as needed during use.
A final thought might be to talk to Kimber to see if they have any specific products/procedures they recommend. My Nephew has the Kimber with the .22 conversion and loves them. Happy shooting.
After all the above was said and Done!...Run,Jump or Drive to your Local W*M and get a Bag of "DampRid" and put it in your Gun Locker,Safe or night stand, to Eliminate excess Moisture from all your TOYS.
Acually jhjimbo, I only fired 3 bullets through it so I didn't take the time to clean it. That was probaly a mistake.
Those stains might not even be rust spots, but dark patches of packing grease. Try wiping them off with a rough cloth before hitting them with steel wool.
If you did not strip it down and look at all the parts before shooting it, it very well could be some excess packing grease. Use a towel and wipe it down then clean it well as per above. Then every time you shoot clean it well when you get home.
CLP is much better fit for semi-automatics than WD40. If it i good enough to clean an M-4 after a firefight, it is plenty good enough for your Kimber.
Don't panic... just take it apart and clean it. Lots of good advice on that above. Make sure you put a nice thin coat of oil on it before storage. Ozark may be right. I don't treat mine as well as I should and I've never seen rust on it.
WD-40 is actually water soluble so I wouldn't use it as any kind of protectant against moisture. The stuff is about useless in my opinion. After cleaning I wipe my guns down with 3-in-1 oil. Can be had at any hardware store. It's the most amazing stuff I have seen yet for keeping the gun safe in harsh weather conditions. If it'll hold up through a day of tracking in thick snowy brush or goose hunting in a hurricane, I'm sure it will hold up just fine in your gun closet. Of course, it's too heavy for working parts in the action and I have never used it in the barrel of rifle either. Inside the house in normal not-so-humid environmental situations (i.e. not the deep South or eastern seaboard) I have never had a problem storing well oiled guns in a foam gun case. However, DO NOT leave cased guns in the trunk of a car. The temperature changes outside during the course of the day will cause even a well oiled gun to develop rust.
A word of caution about stripping a Kimber in the "II" category. Most have the Schwartz-type safety, which has a small protruding part on the slide that needs to be handled correctly so as not to bend or otherwise bother it. All my 45's are Series 70, so I can't tell you exactly what you need to do, but I'm sure the manual will address that issue.
Also, while we are on the subject, Google "idiot-scratch" and read about how to prevent it. I use a small piece of clear plastic from clam-shell packages as a shield.
Forgot to mention before but invest in a good silicone impregnated cloth. Wipe down all the surfaces of the weapon that you have touched before storing. This will remove any acids and oils left behind by your hands and put down a protective coating to prevent rust.
Amflyer - I once owned a Colt Gold Cup 1911 that I left with a local Texas gunsmith for some minor work.
When I picked it up, he told me there would be no charge.
I took it home, and when I opened the package, I learned why the gunsmith was so generous. There was an idiot scratch on the frame. Egad!
The correspondence course on gunsmithing that he had taken must not have covered that topic.
No matter how much I scrub the spots will not come off, I also did some research on the internet and discovered that this is a very common problem with Kimbers and no matter how much oil you put on it the rust comes right back. I'm starting to wish I never bought this thing.
Dallas- It is possible that you need a solvent. Try lighter fluid. That stuff dissolves a lot of greasy stains, including glue.
I'll be sure to give it a try.
Dallas, don't be discouraged with your Kimber Custom II. I've got one and I'm very pleased with it. I keep it clean and it performs reliably, accurately. Don't drown it in oil; it need only be very lightly lubed (like any other autoloader) and it'll do a great job.
Use a Rig Rag
Post an Answer
Use 0000 steel wool to eliminate the surface rust. There may be some discoloration, but it won't affect function. Lube lightly and keep it scrupulously clean.
Never, EVER store a gun in a case! ESPECIALLY a case that is cloth or foam lined.
Store guns in open air or a gun safe.
Even in a case, as the metal warms and cools, condensation forms on the outside, just like a tea glass on a summer day. The cloth/foam absorbs the moisture and holds it against the gun. Basically like storing a gun wrapped in a wet sponge!
Then follow EJP's advice! Three or four ought steel wool and a squirt of WD-40. Wipe with a clean, dry rag.
For tight corners/spots, wrap a small piece of steel wool (ala Q-tip) a match stick or other small stick. Works well in tight spots.
You did not say how you cleaned it before you put it away after using it last, but i would not follow that procedure again. I would do what Ed and FirstBubba said and then instead of WD-40 i would use Sheath, a penetrating oil that is thinner than weasel piss to wipe it down for storage. Store in a low or lower humidity location if possible. Before use again i would oil the required places with Remington Oil with a occasional re application as needed during use.
A final thought might be to talk to Kimber to see if they have any specific products/procedures they recommend. My Nephew has the Kimber with the .22 conversion and loves them. Happy shooting.
Acually jhjimbo, I only fired 3 bullets through it so I didn't take the time to clean it. That was probaly a mistake.
Those stains might not even be rust spots, but dark patches of packing grease. Try wiping them off with a rough cloth before hitting them with steel wool.
CLP is much better fit for semi-automatics than WD40. If it i good enough to clean an M-4 after a firefight, it is plenty good enough for your Kimber.
After all the above was said and Done!...Run,Jump or Drive to your Local W*M and get a Bag of "DampRid" and put it in your Gun Locker,Safe or night stand, to Eliminate excess Moisture from all your TOYS.
If you did not strip it down and look at all the parts before shooting it, it very well could be some excess packing grease. Use a towel and wipe it down then clean it well as per above. Then every time you shoot clean it well when you get home.
A word of caution about stripping a Kimber in the "II" category. Most have the Schwartz-type safety, which has a small protruding part on the slide that needs to be handled correctly so as not to bend or otherwise bother it. All my 45's are Series 70, so I can't tell you exactly what you need to do, but I'm sure the manual will address that issue.
Also, while we are on the subject, Google "idiot-scratch" and read about how to prevent it. I use a small piece of clear plastic from clam-shell packages as a shield.
Forgot to mention before but invest in a good silicone impregnated cloth. Wipe down all the surfaces of the weapon that you have touched before storing. This will remove any acids and oils left behind by your hands and put down a protective coating to prevent rust.
No matter how much I scrub the spots will not come off, I also did some research on the internet and discovered that this is a very common problem with Kimbers and no matter how much oil you put on it the rust comes right back. I'm starting to wish I never bought this thing.
I'll be sure to give it a try.
Dallas, don't be discouraged with your Kimber Custom II. I've got one and I'm very pleased with it. I keep it clean and it performs reliably, accurately. Don't drown it in oil; it need only be very lightly lubed (like any other autoloader) and it'll do a great job.
Don't panic... just take it apart and clean it. Lots of good advice on that above. Make sure you put a nice thin coat of oil on it before storage. Ozark may be right. I don't treat mine as well as I should and I've never seen rust on it.
WD-40 is actually water soluble so I wouldn't use it as any kind of protectant against moisture. The stuff is about useless in my opinion. After cleaning I wipe my guns down with 3-in-1 oil. Can be had at any hardware store. It's the most amazing stuff I have seen yet for keeping the gun safe in harsh weather conditions. If it'll hold up through a day of tracking in thick snowy brush or goose hunting in a hurricane, I'm sure it will hold up just fine in your gun closet. Of course, it's too heavy for working parts in the action and I have never used it in the barrel of rifle either. Inside the house in normal not-so-humid environmental situations (i.e. not the deep South or eastern seaboard) I have never had a problem storing well oiled guns in a foam gun case. However, DO NOT leave cased guns in the trunk of a car. The temperature changes outside during the course of the day will cause even a well oiled gun to develop rust.
Amflyer - I once owned a Colt Gold Cup 1911 that I left with a local Texas gunsmith for some minor work.
When I picked it up, he told me there would be no charge.
I took it home, and when I opened the package, I learned why the gunsmith was so generous. There was an idiot scratch on the frame. Egad!
The correspondence course on gunsmithing that he had taken must not have covered that topic.
Dallas- It is possible that you need a solvent. Try lighter fluid. That stuff dissolves a lot of greasy stains, including glue.
Use a Rig Rag
Post an Answer