I think that the perfect bullet weight for the 300 for long range is the 165 grain or the 168 grain. I get better results out of them than I do the 180's. I think that it may depend on what your particular gun may shoot better.
I shoot a custom .300 Win mag for long range. I use two main loads. I use a 190 Sierra Matchking load for plinking and target shooting and I shoot the 210 grain Berger VLD for hunting and 1000+ yard shooting. I've shot the 210 on paper out to 1328 yards and on steel to 1400 yards with great success. I've shot the 190 at steel out to 1200 and they do well but you get more wind deflection.
I'm currently working on load development for 215 and 230 grain Berger Hybrids. For long range shooting like you're talking, bigger bullets are better.
I've got pictures of my rifle and some groups shot at long ranges (528-1020) on my profile. I'd be more than happy to help you as much as I can on getting set up for long range shooting. I have a lot of passion for it and have quite a bit of experience with it. If you have any particular questions please feel free to ask.
What is your set up that you're planning on using for long range? Rifle, scope etc. ?
He can go as light as he wants as long as he's shooting at paper. Animals? Nobody should be shooting at any critter that far away. Well, not any critter that counts anyway.
Even shooting paper heavier bullets are better. Bigger bullets typically have higher BC's and the BC is going to have the biggest affect on wind drift. Wind is the biggest factor and challenge in long range shooting. The only way to combat wind is shoot and practice in it, and select bullets that minimize the affects of wind. To active the latter, this means selecting a high BC bullet and typically means a heavier bullet.
Yeah you can choose a light bullet if you want, but you're just making it harder on yourself in my opinion. Why make it harder than you have to?
BigBboy25 probably has the most insight into long range shooting amongst those of us who enjoy this sort of riflery on this blog. Maybe I say this as I have developed similiar skills with much the same philosophy and tools over the last 6-7 years. Frankly the wolves drove me to it but that is another story. Sometimes under proper conditions, with suitable equipment, and sufficient experience that really long shot sure is heartwarming when the bull falls to a single VLD. What some objecting folks can't grasp is that if you can make a 700-1000 yard shot on an elk then the 200-400 yard shots on bulls and cows are usually easy...depending on the wind. Do I detect His Exalted Grand High Potentate Petzal beginning to lean in this direction? Shades of testing 6.5 x .284's, BDC scopes, and VLDs, maybe so, we will see as time progresses. Remember those long shots are addictive.
BigBboy25. Right know I have a Winchester 300WM it is just a basic plat form rifle, with a Simmons 44 mag 6X24 X 40mm mil dot. I have been wanted to shoot long rang for awhile but haven't had a gun for it tell I bout the 300. I also just started reloading so I'm going to find a good round to shoot. I have been doing some reading on long rang shooting but still have a lot to learn. Any good tips?
Thanks for the advice but I don't need Palma shooters to explain ballistics to me. Plus in palma you're limited to a bullet that weighs no more than 156 grains, and what do they all shoot? 155 sierra's or 155.5 Full Bore Bergers. Why? Highest BC's. Don't recall ever reading any palma championships being won with 125 grain bullets for the added velocity edge.
Speaking of added velocity Mr. Cooper, it is true a lighter bullet can be propelled at higher velocities, but since they typically have lower BC's than similarly geometrically designed heavier bullets, they lose their velocity faster. If you've studied ballistics in depth, you'd know that BC has a much greater affect on trajectory than added velocity.
Let's analyze this. You suggested a 190 Berger VLD. Let's assume you can push that 190 Berger at 3,000 FPS. It has a G7 BC of .291 lb/in^2. Now you can compare it to a 210 grain Berger VLD running at 2,854 FPS (210 Velocity derived from initial 3,000 FPS of the 190 using equality of energies), the 210 has a BC of .323 lb/in^2. So the 210 has 4.87% less muzzle velocity over the 190, but the 210 has 11% greater BC. At 800 - 1000 yards (which the question refers to) the 190 will have 32.7" of drift at 800 yards while the 210 has 31.2". Then at 1,000 yards the 190 has 54.2" of drift and the 210 has 51.4". Both these bullets have similar designs, in fact their form factors (which is the true measure of ballistics merit) are within 0.003. This means that the BC difference is due to the weight difference between the bullets. SO while the 190 has more velocity, it has more wind drift at 800-1000 yards. So at 800 and 1,000 yards the 210 has about 5% less wind drift than the 190.
Why didn't I mention drop? Because drop is a deterministic variable. As Mr. Petzal said something to the likes of 'Drop is science, windage is voodoo' Drop is easy to correct for if you have a range, accurate atmospheric data, and an accurate BC and Muzzle Velocity. Wind drift however is a non-deterministic variable. It's hard to accurately measure wind speed and direction and therefore there is more room for error in it. Like I said, you want to minimize the affects of wind drift, Typically that means a heavier bullet, even if it has a lower MV. I'll definitely choose a bullet that has more drop and less wind drift simply because drop is not something I worry about. But as a side note, the 190 does have 1.25 MOA less drop at 1,000 yards than the 210.
Also, if you shoot a Berger, it doesn't matter what he's shooting. Be it paper or game, the Berger VLD hunting bullet will handle either without a problem.
So I guess what I'm getting at is big bullets will almost always do better in the wind than lighter bullets of similar geometrically designs. Are there exceptions? Yes, if you compared a flat base, tangent ogive 200 grain bullet to a boat-tailed secant ogive 180 grain bullet then yeah, the 180 might win out.
You're more than welcome to shoot a 190 and a M1A if you like Clay. To each his own. But what's listed above is my logic and reason on why I'd shoot a 210, 215, or 230 grain bullet over a lighter bullet for long range. Plus they've shot incredibly well for me.
a few tips I'd suggest is get your rifle set up correctly. Good trigger, free floating barrel, etc. Make sure you get the best possible equipment that you can afford. Optics are no different. Get the best scope you can. I use Leupold VXIII for my rifles.
800-1000 yards takes more than a big cartridge and high magnification scope. You're shooting at a half mile or further and any imperfection in you rifle, scope, position, trigger squeeze, load, bullet etc gets magnified exponentially. The first this you need to do is select a bullet and get it to shoot. For long range shooting of any kind, Berger is the top choice. As I said, I shoot the 210 grain VLD now and am working on a larger weight. You can go bigger or smaller it's up to you. But I suggest loading Berger's. Now work up a load that will shoot consistently and reputably out of your rifle. And if you're serious, you need your load to shoot consistently around a 1/2 inch at 100 yards and have a ES of a max of about 20-25 FPS, the lower you can get it though the better. A 1 MOA rifle isn't really going to cut it for precise long range shooting.
After you get a load worked up and choreographed you need to focus on your scope. There are several ways to compensate for bullet drop and wind drift, mil-dots, BDC reticules, dialing. . . I highly suggest dialing you scope. This has worked the best for me and makes the most sense in my mind. If you choose to dial your scope for each shot you need to check to see if your scope tracks correctly, meaning when you move it 3 MOA it actually moves 3 MOA and not 3.20 MOA. Scopes have a lot of things advertised but they aren't perfect. Don't take anything for granted. You also need to make sure that your scope has repeatable adjustments and doesn't shift Zero if you dial it for 800 yards and back to your zero range setting. These are just some starting things you need to do for your scope. There are several more that I could go into detail about later.
Next is you'll need a laser range finder. No doubt about that. You'll also need a good ballistics program. xbal, Shooter, and Bullet Flight are all extremely accurate. I use Bullet Flight. You'll also need to be meticulous about measuring altitude, barometric pressure, temperature, humidity, inclined angle, latitude and azimuth. After that you'll need to verify your ballistics output and search for flaws in your procedure or measurements.
Once you have that down you've got to practice. Wind reading is not easy and no one ever masters it in my opinion. You have to get out there and shoot in it.
There is a to that goes into a 800 yard shot. it takes time, money, patience, practice.... it goes on and on. It can be frustrating and expensive but rewarding.
BB, you can talk all you want how big that cartridge is and BC's all you want. Next time your out on the range and somebody is shooting prone, watch the shock wave go zipping through there body. One thing you have omitted is the flinch factor caused by those beloved howitzers you adore.There is a limit one person can handle, but of course, what you lack in skill you try to make up in equipment. But unfortunately, it doesn't pan out that way, in fact it works against you
I shoot a 210 Berger at 2,970 Feet per second. I have over 4,000 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle. My rifle weighs 15 lbs and I have a break, I know you're not a fan but I really don't care. It let's me spot my own shots and watch the trace of my bullet through the scope. My .300 kicks less than most people's .308's.
Also, I never said you need a magnum. I compared your 190 suggestion to a 210 to show the benefits of a higher BC.
You can shoot long range with any cartridge, a .223, .243, 6mm BR, 6.5 BR, 6.5 Grendal, 6.5x284, .30-06, .308, .300 win mag, .300 weatherby, .338 lapua, .338 edge, .408 cheetah, .50 cal. . . anything will really work. The biggest caliber I own is a .300, that's a very common caliber for hunting out west, is it really a howitzer? I'd say the .338 win mag is more howitzer class. I don't really know where I said you need a howitzer for long range.
Also, flinch can be a problem, yes. That's an issue I don't have with my equipment. Lot's of guys buy .300 Ultras and such for long range and it's too much gun. They also shoot those .300 Ultra's with 180 grain bullets and don't fully exploit the potential of that fast shooting magnum. You have to know your limits on recoil and not exceed them.
My rifle doesn't exceed my recoil limits, and I am not making up for skill with equipment, I'm maximizing the potential of the equipment. We could go rounds of this, I post my thoughts and opinions and have explained my reasons for what I think. You've made a lot of claims without much justification for why. I'm sure you have your reasons but it'd be nice if you shared them.
You remind me of those who need the biggest, baddest ways and means around. Kinda like showing up to a weight lifting championship with a forklift or climbing a mountain, you climb into your helicopter, step out, take a few pictures and climb back in and be home for lunch.
I don't see the excitement or yet alone the fulfillment of doing something you can recall and say you did it and be proud of it.
I remember when I was 15 winning a bike race with a 3 speed and everyone else had 10 speeds and 18 and over.
Ya' BB, there's a reason we love to watch Sir Tred Barta and read stories of Sir Fred Bear and there is a reason we have so much respect in them.
I remember a Fella who went on a scuba diving trip and his dive computer broke and couldn't dive and set the remainder of his vacation out of the water. He tried to get the manufacturer to pay for his vacation, there response? "Your a certified diver and you should know how to use at least a capillary gauge, watch and dive tables" and you should of had a dive buddy who's equipment should of been working fine.
I just don't see the thrill & achievement in your equipment Sir.
Wow! I'm chiming in on this quite late. I see two perspecives being aired. I have respect for Clay using relatively primitive equipment to perform exceedingly well at the 1000 yard range and being one of the really outstanding shooters who know how to do the things a human has to do in the long range equation.
Then I see BB25 enjoying the science of long range shooting and researching the best combination of equipment available today to push the envelope in hunting technology. He is working at it hard and is interested in the challenge of mastering long range hunting much the same way some enjoy the challenge of taking a deer or an elk with a simple bow and arrow.
I'm have pretty much the same in perspective as BB25 although I respect Clay's persepctive to. I enjoy the challenge of succeeding ethically with long range hunting. As many know, I have been at it a few years now and am still not ready for my first 1000 yard shot but I am slowly progressing.
I also recommend the Berger 210 for ranges beyond 800 yards. It has been the most accurate and most predictable bullet for me. It shoots around 2" groups at 600 yards and stays right around that consistenly. In addition to best accuracy (which is king for long range) I like the big bullets for all the reasons BB25 stated. If you want less expensive bullets, the Hornady Amax 208 is a good bullet for long range practice and targets. It was not as consistent as the Berger 210 for me but it occassionally shot my best groups at 600-1000 yards. If you weigh the bullets for consistency, they will perform quite well.
Clay is correct that the recoil associated with these big fast bullets is an issue. I have certainly found that accuracy (and shoulder health) tails off as speeds of the 210 increase. You either have to slow them down (I currently shoot mine at 2850 fps in a 12 pound rifle) or get a muzzle brake (like BB25 did). I know that flinch is a BIG consideration too. It grows n direct proportion to recoil. I might still add a muzzle brake and kick up the velocity because in my .300 Dakota, I think I will find a harmonic velocity around 3150 or so and I hate to waste available horsepower (perhaps testosterone induced Clay, if I still have any of that). Like BB25, I will be testing the new Berger 230 just in case it is more accurate in my rifle.
Hunting92, the core things you need to succeed:
1. Outstanding barrel with chamber perfectly aligned
2. Outstanding scope with no parallax.
3. Light crisp trigger.
4. Reloading setup and lots of Berger bullets and powder (I've been happy with IMR 4831 so far).
5. Chronograph
PS Clay, I respect your opinion but regarding the thrill and achievement in the equipment... beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I am willing to accept that. We can all pursue different desires at different points in our life. That's OK with me. I think Thumper is beautiful too but I'd still like give your M1A a spin on the 1000 yard range.
Best regards to all and good luck with your long range endeavors Hunting92. Let me know if I can help.
Okay clay, I'm done. This conversation is off topic from the post and I think you don't know much about this honestly and are just scratching at this as far as I'm concerned. The post was about bullet selection and we made our cases. Now you're bringing in flinching and attacking me based off the equipment I use. But I gave my opinion on bullet selection so I'm done wasting my time arguing.
BB25,
I might not know much, but I know that I ain't shooting any game animal @ 800-1000 yards. I'm not a fantastic hunter but I can get close enough for an ethical, killing shot under most circumstances. Pursuit of game animals is called hunting for a reason.
BB your right and I'll accept being the bad boy here.
Bullet selection is critical, kinda like that faucet commercial. You find a faucet you like and build the house around it. In other words, before you spend all that money in equipment, you decide first the optimum caliber, bullet weight and type for what your attempting to achieve, then and only then is when you craft your equipment around that. For 1000 yards, Palma match shooters shoot 155 gr with 1-11 twist, 168grain plus shooters prefer a 1-10.
Congratulation DM, you made my "From Clays archives of bookmarks, places, information and things to read," list!
As for 1000+ yard shooting, nothing is more thrilling than aiming at a rock or bush lobbing 45-70 rounds and watching the dust fly! You shoot, lower the gun and wait...... POOF!
It might be a fun project Clay. Get you a great barrel and crank it on one of your old actions. It sure has been fun for me and I know BB25 is enjoying his new rifle too. There is no doubt that target sights on a regulation target work as well as anything at 1000 yards. However if you are hunting, a good scope really helps you to see a prairie dog at that range (or diferentiate between a deer and a bush).
RES1956, I am quite conscious of ethics too and don't think anyone should try it who is not prepared; but when I shoot at something at that range, it won't be chancy like a 20 yard shot with an arrow would be. I've gotten close to deer all my life and that just isn't as challenging to me. Long range shooting is challenging enough that it is taking me years to prepare rather than months with a bow.
Shooting annoying critters at that range might be interesting. If I do take on a project like this, it will be either 338 or 416 cal, probably 338, case to use, I'll wait. Every time I look something is new out and we pretty much ran out of case designs, but the new propellants sure changes the subject for what is best?!
Clay, I went with the .300 Dakota because I didn't like the recoil of the .338, .404 and .50 BMG. With heavy rifles and good muzzle brakes they are tollerable though. I would suggest looking at the .375 caliber. I think it might be the best of the bunch in the 1000-2000 yard range now that we are finally getting world class VLD bullets for that old buffalo gun. You need a 1 in 10 twist or faster to stabilize the big bullets but they fly fast with a Cheytac case. Wish I had the bucks to start that project this year but will have to wait. I'm testing some new .375 VLD bullets now and they look pretty good.
He can go as light as he wants as long as he's shooting at paper. Animals? Nobody should be shooting at any critter that far away. Well, not any critter that counts anyway.
a few tips I'd suggest is get your rifle set up correctly. Good trigger, free floating barrel, etc. Make sure you get the best possible equipment that you can afford. Optics are no different. Get the best scope you can. I use Leupold VXIII for my rifles.
800-1000 yards takes more than a big cartridge and high magnification scope. You're shooting at a half mile or further and any imperfection in you rifle, scope, position, trigger squeeze, load, bullet etc gets magnified exponentially. The first this you need to do is select a bullet and get it to shoot. For long range shooting of any kind, Berger is the top choice. As I said, I shoot the 210 grain VLD now and am working on a larger weight. You can go bigger or smaller it's up to you. But I suggest loading Berger's. Now work up a load that will shoot consistently and reputably out of your rifle. And if you're serious, you need your load to shoot consistently around a 1/2 inch at 100 yards and have a ES of a max of about 20-25 FPS, the lower you can get it though the better. A 1 MOA rifle isn't really going to cut it for precise long range shooting.
After you get a load worked up and choreographed you need to focus on your scope. There are several ways to compensate for bullet drop and wind drift, mil-dots, BDC reticules, dialing. . . I highly suggest dialing you scope. This has worked the best for me and makes the most sense in my mind. If you choose to dial your scope for each shot you need to check to see if your scope tracks correctly, meaning when you move it 3 MOA it actually moves 3 MOA and not 3.20 MOA. Scopes have a lot of things advertised but they aren't perfect. Don't take anything for granted. You also need to make sure that your scope has repeatable adjustments and doesn't shift Zero if you dial it for 800 yards and back to your zero range setting. These are just some starting things you need to do for your scope. There are several more that I could go into detail about later.
Next is you'll need a laser range finder. No doubt about that. You'll also need a good ballistics program. xbal, Shooter, and Bullet Flight are all extremely accurate. I use Bullet Flight. You'll also need to be meticulous about measuring altitude, barometric pressure, temperature, humidity, inclined angle, latitude and azimuth. After that you'll need to verify your ballistics output and search for flaws in your procedure or measurements.
Once you have that down you've got to practice. Wind reading is not easy and no one ever masters it in my opinion. You have to get out there and shoot in it.
There is a to that goes into a 800 yard shot. it takes time, money, patience, practice.... it goes on and on. It can be frustrating and expensive but rewarding.
BigBboy25 probably has the most insight into long range shooting amongst those of us who enjoy this sort of riflery on this blog. Maybe I say this as I have developed similiar skills with much the same philosophy and tools over the last 6-7 years. Frankly the wolves drove me to it but that is another story. Sometimes under proper conditions, with suitable equipment, and sufficient experience that really long shot sure is heartwarming when the bull falls to a single VLD. What some objecting folks can't grasp is that if you can make a 700-1000 yard shot on an elk then the 200-400 yard shots on bulls and cows are usually easy...depending on the wind. Do I detect His Exalted Grand High Potentate Petzal beginning to lean in this direction? Shades of testing 6.5 x .284's, BDC scopes, and VLDs, maybe so, we will see as time progresses. Remember those long shots are addictive.
Thanks for the advice but I don't need Palma shooters to explain ballistics to me. Plus in palma you're limited to a bullet that weighs no more than 156 grains, and what do they all shoot? 155 sierra's or 155.5 Full Bore Bergers. Why? Highest BC's. Don't recall ever reading any palma championships being won with 125 grain bullets for the added velocity edge.
Speaking of added velocity Mr. Cooper, it is true a lighter bullet can be propelled at higher velocities, but since they typically have lower BC's than similarly geometrically designed heavier bullets, they lose their velocity faster. If you've studied ballistics in depth, you'd know that BC has a much greater affect on trajectory than added velocity.
Let's analyze this. You suggested a 190 Berger VLD. Let's assume you can push that 190 Berger at 3,000 FPS. It has a G7 BC of .291 lb/in^2. Now you can compare it to a 210 grain Berger VLD running at 2,854 FPS (210 Velocity derived from initial 3,000 FPS of the 190 using equality of energies), the 210 has a BC of .323 lb/in^2. So the 210 has 4.87% less muzzle velocity over the 190, but the 210 has 11% greater BC. At 800 - 1000 yards (which the question refers to) the 190 will have 32.7" of drift at 800 yards while the 210 has 31.2". Then at 1,000 yards the 190 has 54.2" of drift and the 210 has 51.4". Both these bullets have similar designs, in fact their form factors (which is the true measure of ballistics merit) are within 0.003. This means that the BC difference is due to the weight difference between the bullets. SO while the 190 has more velocity, it has more wind drift at 800-1000 yards. So at 800 and 1,000 yards the 210 has about 5% less wind drift than the 190.
Why didn't I mention drop? Because drop is a deterministic variable. As Mr. Petzal said something to the likes of 'Drop is science, windage is voodoo' Drop is easy to correct for if you have a range, accurate atmospheric data, and an accurate BC and Muzzle Velocity. Wind drift however is a non-deterministic variable. It's hard to accurately measure wind speed and direction and therefore there is more room for error in it. Like I said, you want to minimize the affects of wind drift, Typically that means a heavier bullet, even if it has a lower MV. I'll definitely choose a bullet that has more drop and less wind drift simply because drop is not something I worry about. But as a side note, the 190 does have 1.25 MOA less drop at 1,000 yards than the 210.
Also, if you shoot a Berger, it doesn't matter what he's shooting. Be it paper or game, the Berger VLD hunting bullet will handle either without a problem.
So I guess what I'm getting at is big bullets will almost always do better in the wind than lighter bullets of similar geometrically designs. Are there exceptions? Yes, if you compared a flat base, tangent ogive 200 grain bullet to a boat-tailed secant ogive 180 grain bullet then yeah, the 180 might win out.
You're more than welcome to shoot a 190 and a M1A if you like Clay. To each his own. But what's listed above is my logic and reason on why I'd shoot a 210, 215, or 230 grain bullet over a lighter bullet for long range. Plus they've shot incredibly well for me.
You remind me of those who need the biggest, baddest ways and means around. Kinda like showing up to a weight lifting championship with a forklift or climbing a mountain, you climb into your helicopter, step out, take a few pictures and climb back in and be home for lunch.
I don't see the excitement or yet alone the fulfillment of doing something you can recall and say you did it and be proud of it.
I remember when I was 15 winning a bike race with a 3 speed and everyone else had 10 speeds and 18 and over.
Ya' BB, there's a reason we love to watch Sir Tred Barta and read stories of Sir Fred Bear and there is a reason we have so much respect in them.
I remember a Fella who went on a scuba diving trip and his dive computer broke and couldn't dive and set the remainder of his vacation out of the water. He tried to get the manufacturer to pay for his vacation, there response? "Your a certified diver and you should know how to use at least a capillary gauge, watch and dive tables" and you should of had a dive buddy who's equipment should of been working fine.
I just don't see the thrill & achievement in your equipment Sir.
Wow! I'm chiming in on this quite late. I see two perspecives being aired. I have respect for Clay using relatively primitive equipment to perform exceedingly well at the 1000 yard range and being one of the really outstanding shooters who know how to do the things a human has to do in the long range equation.
Then I see BB25 enjoying the science of long range shooting and researching the best combination of equipment available today to push the envelope in hunting technology. He is working at it hard and is interested in the challenge of mastering long range hunting much the same way some enjoy the challenge of taking a deer or an elk with a simple bow and arrow.
I'm have pretty much the same in perspective as BB25 although I respect Clay's persepctive to. I enjoy the challenge of succeeding ethically with long range hunting. As many know, I have been at it a few years now and am still not ready for my first 1000 yard shot but I am slowly progressing.
I also recommend the Berger 210 for ranges beyond 800 yards. It has been the most accurate and most predictable bullet for me. It shoots around 2" groups at 600 yards and stays right around that consistenly. In addition to best accuracy (which is king for long range) I like the big bullets for all the reasons BB25 stated. If you want less expensive bullets, the Hornady Amax 208 is a good bullet for long range practice and targets. It was not as consistent as the Berger 210 for me but it occassionally shot my best groups at 600-1000 yards. If you weigh the bullets for consistency, they will perform quite well.
Clay is correct that the recoil associated with these big fast bullets is an issue. I have certainly found that accuracy (and shoulder health) tails off as speeds of the 210 increase. You either have to slow them down (I currently shoot mine at 2850 fps in a 12 pound rifle) or get a muzzle brake (like BB25 did). I know that flinch is a BIG consideration too. It grows n direct proportion to recoil. I might still add a muzzle brake and kick up the velocity because in my .300 Dakota, I think I will find a harmonic velocity around 3150 or so and I hate to waste available horsepower (perhaps testosterone induced Clay, if I still have any of that). Like BB25, I will be testing the new Berger 230 just in case it is more accurate in my rifle.
Hunting92, the core things you need to succeed:
1. Outstanding barrel with chamber perfectly aligned
2. Outstanding scope with no parallax.
3. Light crisp trigger.
4. Reloading setup and lots of Berger bullets and powder (I've been happy with IMR 4831 so far).
5. Chronograph
PS Clay, I respect your opinion but regarding the thrill and achievement in the equipment... beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I am willing to accept that. We can all pursue different desires at different points in our life. That's OK with me. I think Thumper is beautiful too but I'd still like give your M1A a spin on the 1000 yard range.
Best regards to all and good luck with your long range endeavors Hunting92. Let me know if I can help.
BB your right and I'll accept being the bad boy here.
Bullet selection is critical, kinda like that faucet commercial. You find a faucet you like and build the house around it. In other words, before you spend all that money in equipment, you decide first the optimum caliber, bullet weight and type for what your attempting to achieve, then and only then is when you craft your equipment around that. For 1000 yards, Palma match shooters shoot 155 gr with 1-11 twist, 168grain plus shooters prefer a 1-10.
Congratulation DM, you made my "From Clays archives of bookmarks, places, information and things to read," list!
As for 1000+ yard shooting, nothing is more thrilling than aiming at a rock or bush lobbing 45-70 rounds and watching the dust fly! You shoot, lower the gun and wait...... POOF!
I think that the perfect bullet weight for the 300 for long range is the 165 grain or the 168 grain. I get better results out of them than I do the 180's. I think that it may depend on what your particular gun may shoot better.
I shoot a custom .300 Win mag for long range. I use two main loads. I use a 190 Sierra Matchking load for plinking and target shooting and I shoot the 210 grain Berger VLD for hunting and 1000+ yard shooting. I've shot the 210 on paper out to 1328 yards and on steel to 1400 yards with great success. I've shot the 190 at steel out to 1200 and they do well but you get more wind deflection.
I'm currently working on load development for 215 and 230 grain Berger Hybrids. For long range shooting like you're talking, bigger bullets are better.
I've got pictures of my rifle and some groups shot at long ranges (528-1020) on my profile. I'd be more than happy to help you as much as I can on getting set up for long range shooting. I have a lot of passion for it and have quite a bit of experience with it. If you have any particular questions please feel free to ask.
What is your set up that you're planning on using for long range? Rifle, scope etc. ?
Even shooting paper heavier bullets are better. Bigger bullets typically have higher BC's and the BC is going to have the biggest affect on wind drift. Wind is the biggest factor and challenge in long range shooting. The only way to combat wind is shoot and practice in it, and select bullets that minimize the affects of wind. To active the latter, this means selecting a high BC bullet and typically means a heavier bullet.
Yeah you can choose a light bullet if you want, but you're just making it harder on yourself in my opinion. Why make it harder than you have to?
BigBboy25. Right know I have a Winchester 300WM it is just a basic plat form rifle, with a Simmons 44 mag 6X24 X 40mm mil dot. I have been wanted to shoot long rang for awhile but haven't had a gun for it tell I bout the 300. I also just started reloading so I'm going to find a good round to shoot. I have been doing some reading on long rang shooting but still have a lot to learn. Any good tips?
BB, you can talk all you want how big that cartridge is and BC's all you want. Next time your out on the range and somebody is shooting prone, watch the shock wave go zipping through there body. One thing you have omitted is the flinch factor caused by those beloved howitzers you adore.There is a limit one person can handle, but of course, what you lack in skill you try to make up in equipment. But unfortunately, it doesn't pan out that way, in fact it works against you
I shoot a 210 Berger at 2,970 Feet per second. I have over 4,000 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle. My rifle weighs 15 lbs and I have a break, I know you're not a fan but I really don't care. It let's me spot my own shots and watch the trace of my bullet through the scope. My .300 kicks less than most people's .308's.
Also, I never said you need a magnum. I compared your 190 suggestion to a 210 to show the benefits of a higher BC.
You can shoot long range with any cartridge, a .223, .243, 6mm BR, 6.5 BR, 6.5 Grendal, 6.5x284, .30-06, .308, .300 win mag, .300 weatherby, .338 lapua, .338 edge, .408 cheetah, .50 cal. . . anything will really work. The biggest caliber I own is a .300, that's a very common caliber for hunting out west, is it really a howitzer? I'd say the .338 win mag is more howitzer class. I don't really know where I said you need a howitzer for long range.
Also, flinch can be a problem, yes. That's an issue I don't have with my equipment. Lot's of guys buy .300 Ultras and such for long range and it's too much gun. They also shoot those .300 Ultra's with 180 grain bullets and don't fully exploit the potential of that fast shooting magnum. You have to know your limits on recoil and not exceed them.
My rifle doesn't exceed my recoil limits, and I am not making up for skill with equipment, I'm maximizing the potential of the equipment. We could go rounds of this, I post my thoughts and opinions and have explained my reasons for what I think. You've made a lot of claims without much justification for why. I'm sure you have your reasons but it'd be nice if you shared them.
Okay clay, I'm done. This conversation is off topic from the post and I think you don't know much about this honestly and are just scratching at this as far as I'm concerned. The post was about bullet selection and we made our cases. Now you're bringing in flinching and attacking me based off the equipment I use. But I gave my opinion on bullet selection so I'm done wasting my time arguing.
BB25,
I might not know much, but I know that I ain't shooting any game animal @ 800-1000 yards. I'm not a fantastic hunter but I can get close enough for an ethical, killing shot under most circumstances. Pursuit of game animals is called hunting for a reason.
It might be a fun project Clay. Get you a great barrel and crank it on one of your old actions. It sure has been fun for me and I know BB25 is enjoying his new rifle too. There is no doubt that target sights on a regulation target work as well as anything at 1000 yards. However if you are hunting, a good scope really helps you to see a prairie dog at that range (or diferentiate between a deer and a bush).
RES1956, I am quite conscious of ethics too and don't think anyone should try it who is not prepared; but when I shoot at something at that range, it won't be chancy like a 20 yard shot with an arrow would be. I've gotten close to deer all my life and that just isn't as challenging to me. Long range shooting is challenging enough that it is taking me years to prepare rather than months with a bow.
Shooting annoying critters at that range might be interesting. If I do take on a project like this, it will be either 338 or 416 cal, probably 338, case to use, I'll wait. Every time I look something is new out and we pretty much ran out of case designs, but the new propellants sure changes the subject for what is best?!
Clay, I went with the .300 Dakota because I didn't like the recoil of the .338, .404 and .50 BMG. With heavy rifles and good muzzle brakes they are tollerable though. I would suggest looking at the .375 caliber. I think it might be the best of the bunch in the 1000-2000 yard range now that we are finally getting world class VLD bullets for that old buffalo gun. You need a 1 in 10 twist or faster to stabilize the big bullets but they fly fast with a Cheytac case. Wish I had the bucks to start that project this year but will have to wait. I'm testing some new .375 VLD bullets now and they look pretty good.
Answers (30)
I think that the perfect bullet weight for the 300 for long range is the 165 grain or the 168 grain. I get better results out of them than I do the 180's. I think that it may depend on what your particular gun may shoot better.
What you shooting at?
For a .300 win mag at 800 yards? A 165 and 168 is way too light. The lightest I'd go is 190, the best would be a 200+ grain bullet.
how about shooting at 1000 yds? best weight
I shoot a custom .300 Win mag for long range. I use two main loads. I use a 190 Sierra Matchking load for plinking and target shooting and I shoot the 210 grain Berger VLD for hunting and 1000+ yard shooting. I've shot the 210 on paper out to 1328 yards and on steel to 1400 yards with great success. I've shot the 190 at steel out to 1200 and they do well but you get more wind deflection.
I'm currently working on load development for 215 and 230 grain Berger Hybrids. For long range shooting like you're talking, bigger bullets are better.
I've got pictures of my rifle and some groups shot at long ranges (528-1020) on my profile. I'd be more than happy to help you as much as I can on getting set up for long range shooting. I have a lot of passion for it and have quite a bit of experience with it. If you have any particular questions please feel free to ask.
What is your set up that you're planning on using for long range? Rifle, scope etc. ?
He can go as light as he wants as long as he's shooting at paper. Animals? Nobody should be shooting at any critter that far away. Well, not any critter that counts anyway.
Even shooting paper heavier bullets are better. Bigger bullets typically have higher BC's and the BC is going to have the biggest affect on wind drift. Wind is the biggest factor and challenge in long range shooting. The only way to combat wind is shoot and practice in it, and select bullets that minimize the affects of wind. To active the latter, this means selecting a high BC bullet and typically means a heavier bullet.
Yeah you can choose a light bullet if you want, but you're just making it harder on yourself in my opinion. Why make it harder than you have to?
BigBboy25 probably has the most insight into long range shooting amongst those of us who enjoy this sort of riflery on this blog. Maybe I say this as I have developed similiar skills with much the same philosophy and tools over the last 6-7 years. Frankly the wolves drove me to it but that is another story. Sometimes under proper conditions, with suitable equipment, and sufficient experience that really long shot sure is heartwarming when the bull falls to a single VLD. What some objecting folks can't grasp is that if you can make a 700-1000 yard shot on an elk then the 200-400 yard shots on bulls and cows are usually easy...depending on the wind. Do I detect His Exalted Grand High Potentate Petzal beginning to lean in this direction? Shades of testing 6.5 x .284's, BDC scopes, and VLDs, maybe so, we will see as time progresses. Remember those long shots are addictive.
190 grain Berger
Sierra SUCKS!
BC is going to have the biggest affect on wind drift?
True the higher the BC, the less drag a bullet has thus getting there faster than a bullet the same weight thus less drop.
BigBboy25
Shot any Palma Matches yet, might learn something from that group of International Shooters :)
190 would be the heaviest I'd go,got to keep that velocity up, been dar and dun dat!
Big gun with Extraterrestrial Scope gets whooped by M1A with open sights!
YA'BUDDY!
Hunting92 never did say what his target wuz, could be Zombies!
BigBboy25. Right know I have a Winchester 300WM it is just a basic plat form rifle, with a Simmons 44 mag 6X24 X 40mm mil dot. I have been wanted to shoot long rang for awhile but haven't had a gun for it tell I bout the 300. I also just started reloading so I'm going to find a good round to shoot. I have been doing some reading on long rang shooting but still have a lot to learn. Any good tips?
Clay,
Thanks for the advice but I don't need Palma shooters to explain ballistics to me. Plus in palma you're limited to a bullet that weighs no more than 156 grains, and what do they all shoot? 155 sierra's or 155.5 Full Bore Bergers. Why? Highest BC's. Don't recall ever reading any palma championships being won with 125 grain bullets for the added velocity edge.
Speaking of added velocity Mr. Cooper, it is true a lighter bullet can be propelled at higher velocities, but since they typically have lower BC's than similarly geometrically designed heavier bullets, they lose their velocity faster. If you've studied ballistics in depth, you'd know that BC has a much greater affect on trajectory than added velocity.
Let's analyze this. You suggested a 190 Berger VLD. Let's assume you can push that 190 Berger at 3,000 FPS. It has a G7 BC of .291 lb/in^2. Now you can compare it to a 210 grain Berger VLD running at 2,854 FPS (210 Velocity derived from initial 3,000 FPS of the 190 using equality of energies), the 210 has a BC of .323 lb/in^2. So the 210 has 4.87% less muzzle velocity over the 190, but the 210 has 11% greater BC. At 800 - 1000 yards (which the question refers to) the 190 will have 32.7" of drift at 800 yards while the 210 has 31.2". Then at 1,000 yards the 190 has 54.2" of drift and the 210 has 51.4". Both these bullets have similar designs, in fact their form factors (which is the true measure of ballistics merit) are within 0.003. This means that the BC difference is due to the weight difference between the bullets. SO while the 190 has more velocity, it has more wind drift at 800-1000 yards. So at 800 and 1,000 yards the 210 has about 5% less wind drift than the 190.
Why didn't I mention drop? Because drop is a deterministic variable. As Mr. Petzal said something to the likes of 'Drop is science, windage is voodoo' Drop is easy to correct for if you have a range, accurate atmospheric data, and an accurate BC and Muzzle Velocity. Wind drift however is a non-deterministic variable. It's hard to accurately measure wind speed and direction and therefore there is more room for error in it. Like I said, you want to minimize the affects of wind drift, Typically that means a heavier bullet, even if it has a lower MV. I'll definitely choose a bullet that has more drop and less wind drift simply because drop is not something I worry about. But as a side note, the 190 does have 1.25 MOA less drop at 1,000 yards than the 210.
Also, if you shoot a Berger, it doesn't matter what he's shooting. Be it paper or game, the Berger VLD hunting bullet will handle either without a problem.
So I guess what I'm getting at is big bullets will almost always do better in the wind than lighter bullets of similar geometrically designs. Are there exceptions? Yes, if you compared a flat base, tangent ogive 200 grain bullet to a boat-tailed secant ogive 180 grain bullet then yeah, the 180 might win out.
You're more than welcome to shoot a 190 and a M1A if you like Clay. To each his own. But what's listed above is my logic and reason on why I'd shoot a 210, 215, or 230 grain bullet over a lighter bullet for long range. Plus they've shot incredibly well for me.
Hunting92,
a few tips I'd suggest is get your rifle set up correctly. Good trigger, free floating barrel, etc. Make sure you get the best possible equipment that you can afford. Optics are no different. Get the best scope you can. I use Leupold VXIII for my rifles.
800-1000 yards takes more than a big cartridge and high magnification scope. You're shooting at a half mile or further and any imperfection in you rifle, scope, position, trigger squeeze, load, bullet etc gets magnified exponentially. The first this you need to do is select a bullet and get it to shoot. For long range shooting of any kind, Berger is the top choice. As I said, I shoot the 210 grain VLD now and am working on a larger weight. You can go bigger or smaller it's up to you. But I suggest loading Berger's. Now work up a load that will shoot consistently and reputably out of your rifle. And if you're serious, you need your load to shoot consistently around a 1/2 inch at 100 yards and have a ES of a max of about 20-25 FPS, the lower you can get it though the better. A 1 MOA rifle isn't really going to cut it for precise long range shooting.
After you get a load worked up and choreographed you need to focus on your scope. There are several ways to compensate for bullet drop and wind drift, mil-dots, BDC reticules, dialing. . . I highly suggest dialing you scope. This has worked the best for me and makes the most sense in my mind. If you choose to dial your scope for each shot you need to check to see if your scope tracks correctly, meaning when you move it 3 MOA it actually moves 3 MOA and not 3.20 MOA. Scopes have a lot of things advertised but they aren't perfect. Don't take anything for granted. You also need to make sure that your scope has repeatable adjustments and doesn't shift Zero if you dial it for 800 yards and back to your zero range setting. These are just some starting things you need to do for your scope. There are several more that I could go into detail about later.
Next is you'll need a laser range finder. No doubt about that. You'll also need a good ballistics program. xbal, Shooter, and Bullet Flight are all extremely accurate. I use Bullet Flight. You'll also need to be meticulous about measuring altitude, barometric pressure, temperature, humidity, inclined angle, latitude and azimuth. After that you'll need to verify your ballistics output and search for flaws in your procedure or measurements.
Once you have that down you've got to practice. Wind reading is not easy and no one ever masters it in my opinion. You have to get out there and shoot in it.
There is a to that goes into a 800 yard shot. it takes time, money, patience, practice.... it goes on and on. It can be frustrating and expensive but rewarding.
BB, you can talk all you want how big that cartridge is and BC's all you want. Next time your out on the range and somebody is shooting prone, watch the shock wave go zipping through there body. One thing you have omitted is the flinch factor caused by those beloved howitzers you adore.There is a limit one person can handle, but of course, what you lack in skill you try to make up in equipment. But unfortunately, it doesn't pan out that way, in fact it works against you
I shoot a 210 Berger at 2,970 Feet per second. I have over 4,000 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle. My rifle weighs 15 lbs and I have a break, I know you're not a fan but I really don't care. It let's me spot my own shots and watch the trace of my bullet through the scope. My .300 kicks less than most people's .308's.
Also, I never said you need a magnum. I compared your 190 suggestion to a 210 to show the benefits of a higher BC.
You can shoot long range with any cartridge, a .223, .243, 6mm BR, 6.5 BR, 6.5 Grendal, 6.5x284, .30-06, .308, .300 win mag, .300 weatherby, .338 lapua, .338 edge, .408 cheetah, .50 cal. . . anything will really work. The biggest caliber I own is a .300, that's a very common caliber for hunting out west, is it really a howitzer? I'd say the .338 win mag is more howitzer class. I don't really know where I said you need a howitzer for long range.
Also, flinch can be a problem, yes. That's an issue I don't have with my equipment. Lot's of guys buy .300 Ultras and such for long range and it's too much gun. They also shoot those .300 Ultra's with 180 grain bullets and don't fully exploit the potential of that fast shooting magnum. You have to know your limits on recoil and not exceed them.
My rifle doesn't exceed my recoil limits, and I am not making up for skill with equipment, I'm maximizing the potential of the equipment. We could go rounds of this, I post my thoughts and opinions and have explained my reasons for what I think. You've made a lot of claims without much justification for why. I'm sure you have your reasons but it'd be nice if you shared them.
watch the trace of my bullet through the scope?
That's pretty damn fast moving from position into the scope ;)
It's not when it's the Leupold on my rifle that I'm watching the trace through ;)
O' Thanks for reminding me ;)
You remind me of those who need the biggest, baddest ways and means around. Kinda like showing up to a weight lifting championship with a forklift or climbing a mountain, you climb into your helicopter, step out, take a few pictures and climb back in and be home for lunch.
I don't see the excitement or yet alone the fulfillment of doing something you can recall and say you did it and be proud of it.
I remember when I was 15 winning a bike race with a 3 speed and everyone else had 10 speeds and 18 and over.
Ya' BB, there's a reason we love to watch Sir Tred Barta and read stories of Sir Fred Bear and there is a reason we have so much respect in them.
I remember a Fella who went on a scuba diving trip and his dive computer broke and couldn't dive and set the remainder of his vacation out of the water. He tried to get the manufacturer to pay for his vacation, there response? "Your a certified diver and you should know how to use at least a capillary gauge, watch and dive tables" and you should of had a dive buddy who's equipment should of been working fine.
I just don't see the thrill & achievement in your equipment Sir.
Wow! I'm chiming in on this quite late. I see two perspecives being aired. I have respect for Clay using relatively primitive equipment to perform exceedingly well at the 1000 yard range and being one of the really outstanding shooters who know how to do the things a human has to do in the long range equation.
Then I see BB25 enjoying the science of long range shooting and researching the best combination of equipment available today to push the envelope in hunting technology. He is working at it hard and is interested in the challenge of mastering long range hunting much the same way some enjoy the challenge of taking a deer or an elk with a simple bow and arrow.
I'm have pretty much the same in perspective as BB25 although I respect Clay's persepctive to. I enjoy the challenge of succeeding ethically with long range hunting. As many know, I have been at it a few years now and am still not ready for my first 1000 yard shot but I am slowly progressing.
I also recommend the Berger 210 for ranges beyond 800 yards. It has been the most accurate and most predictable bullet for me. It shoots around 2" groups at 600 yards and stays right around that consistenly. In addition to best accuracy (which is king for long range) I like the big bullets for all the reasons BB25 stated. If you want less expensive bullets, the Hornady Amax 208 is a good bullet for long range practice and targets. It was not as consistent as the Berger 210 for me but it occassionally shot my best groups at 600-1000 yards. If you weigh the bullets for consistency, they will perform quite well.
Clay is correct that the recoil associated with these big fast bullets is an issue. I have certainly found that accuracy (and shoulder health) tails off as speeds of the 210 increase. You either have to slow them down (I currently shoot mine at 2850 fps in a 12 pound rifle) or get a muzzle brake (like BB25 did). I know that flinch is a BIG consideration too. It grows n direct proportion to recoil. I might still add a muzzle brake and kick up the velocity because in my .300 Dakota, I think I will find a harmonic velocity around 3150 or so and I hate to waste available horsepower (perhaps testosterone induced Clay, if I still have any of that). Like BB25, I will be testing the new Berger 230 just in case it is more accurate in my rifle.
Hunting92, the core things you need to succeed:
1. Outstanding barrel with chamber perfectly aligned
2. Outstanding scope with no parallax.
3. Light crisp trigger.
4. Reloading setup and lots of Berger bullets and powder (I've been happy with IMR 4831 so far).
5. Chronograph
PS Clay, I respect your opinion but regarding the thrill and achievement in the equipment... beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I am willing to accept that. We can all pursue different desires at different points in our life. That's OK with me. I think Thumper is beautiful too but I'd still like give your M1A a spin on the 1000 yard range.
Best regards to all and good luck with your long range endeavors Hunting92. Let me know if I can help.
Okay clay, I'm done. This conversation is off topic from the post and I think you don't know much about this honestly and are just scratching at this as far as I'm concerned. The post was about bullet selection and we made our cases. Now you're bringing in flinching and attacking me based off the equipment I use. But I gave my opinion on bullet selection so I'm done wasting my time arguing.
BB25,
I might not know much, but I know that I ain't shooting any game animal @ 800-1000 yards. I'm not a fantastic hunter but I can get close enough for an ethical, killing shot under most circumstances. Pursuit of game animals is called hunting for a reason.
BB your right and I'll accept being the bad boy here.
Bullet selection is critical, kinda like that faucet commercial. You find a faucet you like and build the house around it. In other words, before you spend all that money in equipment, you decide first the optimum caliber, bullet weight and type for what your attempting to achieve, then and only then is when you craft your equipment around that. For 1000 yards, Palma match shooters shoot 155 gr with 1-11 twist, 168grain plus shooters prefer a 1-10.
Congratulation DM, you made my "From Clays archives of bookmarks, places, information and things to read," list!
As for 1000+ yard shooting, nothing is more thrilling than aiming at a rock or bush lobbing 45-70 rounds and watching the dust fly! You shoot, lower the gun and wait...... POOF!
Now you guys got me wanting to build one of those laser guns
Never thought I'd ever own a I-Phone, but now I got one and starting to like the damn annoying thing.
It might be a fun project Clay. Get you a great barrel and crank it on one of your old actions. It sure has been fun for me and I know BB25 is enjoying his new rifle too. There is no doubt that target sights on a regulation target work as well as anything at 1000 yards. However if you are hunting, a good scope really helps you to see a prairie dog at that range (or diferentiate between a deer and a bush).
RES1956, I am quite conscious of ethics too and don't think anyone should try it who is not prepared; but when I shoot at something at that range, it won't be chancy like a 20 yard shot with an arrow would be. I've gotten close to deer all my life and that just isn't as challenging to me. Long range shooting is challenging enough that it is taking me years to prepare rather than months with a bow.
DM
Shooting annoying critters at that range might be interesting. If I do take on a project like this, it will be either 338 or 416 cal, probably 338, case to use, I'll wait. Every time I look something is new out and we pretty much ran out of case designs, but the new propellants sure changes the subject for what is best?!
Today's equipment isn't your Daddies stuff!
Finally accepted the I-Phone to use, I'm just slow to warmup to something new I reckon
Thanks a lot for all the advice, I think it will really help me out. Thank you everyone.
Clay, I went with the .300 Dakota because I didn't like the recoil of the .338, .404 and .50 BMG. With heavy rifles and good muzzle brakes they are tollerable though. I would suggest looking at the .375 caliber. I think it might be the best of the bunch in the 1000-2000 yard range now that we are finally getting world class VLD bullets for that old buffalo gun. You need a 1 in 10 twist or faster to stabilize the big bullets but they fly fast with a Cheytac case. Wish I had the bucks to start that project this year but will have to wait. I'm testing some new .375 VLD bullets now and they look pretty good.
Post an Answer
He can go as light as he wants as long as he's shooting at paper. Animals? Nobody should be shooting at any critter that far away. Well, not any critter that counts anyway.
Hunting92,
a few tips I'd suggest is get your rifle set up correctly. Good trigger, free floating barrel, etc. Make sure you get the best possible equipment that you can afford. Optics are no different. Get the best scope you can. I use Leupold VXIII for my rifles.
800-1000 yards takes more than a big cartridge and high magnification scope. You're shooting at a half mile or further and any imperfection in you rifle, scope, position, trigger squeeze, load, bullet etc gets magnified exponentially. The first this you need to do is select a bullet and get it to shoot. For long range shooting of any kind, Berger is the top choice. As I said, I shoot the 210 grain VLD now and am working on a larger weight. You can go bigger or smaller it's up to you. But I suggest loading Berger's. Now work up a load that will shoot consistently and reputably out of your rifle. And if you're serious, you need your load to shoot consistently around a 1/2 inch at 100 yards and have a ES of a max of about 20-25 FPS, the lower you can get it though the better. A 1 MOA rifle isn't really going to cut it for precise long range shooting.
After you get a load worked up and choreographed you need to focus on your scope. There are several ways to compensate for bullet drop and wind drift, mil-dots, BDC reticules, dialing. . . I highly suggest dialing you scope. This has worked the best for me and makes the most sense in my mind. If you choose to dial your scope for each shot you need to check to see if your scope tracks correctly, meaning when you move it 3 MOA it actually moves 3 MOA and not 3.20 MOA. Scopes have a lot of things advertised but they aren't perfect. Don't take anything for granted. You also need to make sure that your scope has repeatable adjustments and doesn't shift Zero if you dial it for 800 yards and back to your zero range setting. These are just some starting things you need to do for your scope. There are several more that I could go into detail about later.
Next is you'll need a laser range finder. No doubt about that. You'll also need a good ballistics program. xbal, Shooter, and Bullet Flight are all extremely accurate. I use Bullet Flight. You'll also need to be meticulous about measuring altitude, barometric pressure, temperature, humidity, inclined angle, latitude and azimuth. After that you'll need to verify your ballistics output and search for flaws in your procedure or measurements.
Once you have that down you've got to practice. Wind reading is not easy and no one ever masters it in my opinion. You have to get out there and shoot in it.
There is a to that goes into a 800 yard shot. it takes time, money, patience, practice.... it goes on and on. It can be frustrating and expensive but rewarding.
For a .300 win mag at 800 yards? A 165 and 168 is way too light. The lightest I'd go is 190, the best would be a 200+ grain bullet.
BigBboy25 probably has the most insight into long range shooting amongst those of us who enjoy this sort of riflery on this blog. Maybe I say this as I have developed similiar skills with much the same philosophy and tools over the last 6-7 years. Frankly the wolves drove me to it but that is another story. Sometimes under proper conditions, with suitable equipment, and sufficient experience that really long shot sure is heartwarming when the bull falls to a single VLD. What some objecting folks can't grasp is that if you can make a 700-1000 yard shot on an elk then the 200-400 yard shots on bulls and cows are usually easy...depending on the wind. Do I detect His Exalted Grand High Potentate Petzal beginning to lean in this direction? Shades of testing 6.5 x .284's, BDC scopes, and VLDs, maybe so, we will see as time progresses. Remember those long shots are addictive.
Clay,
Thanks for the advice but I don't need Palma shooters to explain ballistics to me. Plus in palma you're limited to a bullet that weighs no more than 156 grains, and what do they all shoot? 155 sierra's or 155.5 Full Bore Bergers. Why? Highest BC's. Don't recall ever reading any palma championships being won with 125 grain bullets for the added velocity edge.
Speaking of added velocity Mr. Cooper, it is true a lighter bullet can be propelled at higher velocities, but since they typically have lower BC's than similarly geometrically designed heavier bullets, they lose their velocity faster. If you've studied ballistics in depth, you'd know that BC has a much greater affect on trajectory than added velocity.
Let's analyze this. You suggested a 190 Berger VLD. Let's assume you can push that 190 Berger at 3,000 FPS. It has a G7 BC of .291 lb/in^2. Now you can compare it to a 210 grain Berger VLD running at 2,854 FPS (210 Velocity derived from initial 3,000 FPS of the 190 using equality of energies), the 210 has a BC of .323 lb/in^2. So the 210 has 4.87% less muzzle velocity over the 190, but the 210 has 11% greater BC. At 800 - 1000 yards (which the question refers to) the 190 will have 32.7" of drift at 800 yards while the 210 has 31.2". Then at 1,000 yards the 190 has 54.2" of drift and the 210 has 51.4". Both these bullets have similar designs, in fact their form factors (which is the true measure of ballistics merit) are within 0.003. This means that the BC difference is due to the weight difference between the bullets. SO while the 190 has more velocity, it has more wind drift at 800-1000 yards. So at 800 and 1,000 yards the 210 has about 5% less wind drift than the 190.
Why didn't I mention drop? Because drop is a deterministic variable. As Mr. Petzal said something to the likes of 'Drop is science, windage is voodoo' Drop is easy to correct for if you have a range, accurate atmospheric data, and an accurate BC and Muzzle Velocity. Wind drift however is a non-deterministic variable. It's hard to accurately measure wind speed and direction and therefore there is more room for error in it. Like I said, you want to minimize the affects of wind drift, Typically that means a heavier bullet, even if it has a lower MV. I'll definitely choose a bullet that has more drop and less wind drift simply because drop is not something I worry about. But as a side note, the 190 does have 1.25 MOA less drop at 1,000 yards than the 210.
Also, if you shoot a Berger, it doesn't matter what he's shooting. Be it paper or game, the Berger VLD hunting bullet will handle either without a problem.
So I guess what I'm getting at is big bullets will almost always do better in the wind than lighter bullets of similar geometrically designs. Are there exceptions? Yes, if you compared a flat base, tangent ogive 200 grain bullet to a boat-tailed secant ogive 180 grain bullet then yeah, the 180 might win out.
You're more than welcome to shoot a 190 and a M1A if you like Clay. To each his own. But what's listed above is my logic and reason on why I'd shoot a 210, 215, or 230 grain bullet over a lighter bullet for long range. Plus they've shot incredibly well for me.
O' Thanks for reminding me ;)
You remind me of those who need the biggest, baddest ways and means around. Kinda like showing up to a weight lifting championship with a forklift or climbing a mountain, you climb into your helicopter, step out, take a few pictures and climb back in and be home for lunch.
I don't see the excitement or yet alone the fulfillment of doing something you can recall and say you did it and be proud of it.
I remember when I was 15 winning a bike race with a 3 speed and everyone else had 10 speeds and 18 and over.
Ya' BB, there's a reason we love to watch Sir Tred Barta and read stories of Sir Fred Bear and there is a reason we have so much respect in them.
I remember a Fella who went on a scuba diving trip and his dive computer broke and couldn't dive and set the remainder of his vacation out of the water. He tried to get the manufacturer to pay for his vacation, there response? "Your a certified diver and you should know how to use at least a capillary gauge, watch and dive tables" and you should of had a dive buddy who's equipment should of been working fine.
I just don't see the thrill & achievement in your equipment Sir.
Wow! I'm chiming in on this quite late. I see two perspecives being aired. I have respect for Clay using relatively primitive equipment to perform exceedingly well at the 1000 yard range and being one of the really outstanding shooters who know how to do the things a human has to do in the long range equation.
Then I see BB25 enjoying the science of long range shooting and researching the best combination of equipment available today to push the envelope in hunting technology. He is working at it hard and is interested in the challenge of mastering long range hunting much the same way some enjoy the challenge of taking a deer or an elk with a simple bow and arrow.
I'm have pretty much the same in perspective as BB25 although I respect Clay's persepctive to. I enjoy the challenge of succeeding ethically with long range hunting. As many know, I have been at it a few years now and am still not ready for my first 1000 yard shot but I am slowly progressing.
I also recommend the Berger 210 for ranges beyond 800 yards. It has been the most accurate and most predictable bullet for me. It shoots around 2" groups at 600 yards and stays right around that consistenly. In addition to best accuracy (which is king for long range) I like the big bullets for all the reasons BB25 stated. If you want less expensive bullets, the Hornady Amax 208 is a good bullet for long range practice and targets. It was not as consistent as the Berger 210 for me but it occassionally shot my best groups at 600-1000 yards. If you weigh the bullets for consistency, they will perform quite well.
Clay is correct that the recoil associated with these big fast bullets is an issue. I have certainly found that accuracy (and shoulder health) tails off as speeds of the 210 increase. You either have to slow them down (I currently shoot mine at 2850 fps in a 12 pound rifle) or get a muzzle brake (like BB25 did). I know that flinch is a BIG consideration too. It grows n direct proportion to recoil. I might still add a muzzle brake and kick up the velocity because in my .300 Dakota, I think I will find a harmonic velocity around 3150 or so and I hate to waste available horsepower (perhaps testosterone induced Clay, if I still have any of that). Like BB25, I will be testing the new Berger 230 just in case it is more accurate in my rifle.
Hunting92, the core things you need to succeed:
1. Outstanding barrel with chamber perfectly aligned
2. Outstanding scope with no parallax.
3. Light crisp trigger.
4. Reloading setup and lots of Berger bullets and powder (I've been happy with IMR 4831 so far).
5. Chronograph
PS Clay, I respect your opinion but regarding the thrill and achievement in the equipment... beauty is in the eye of the beholder and I am willing to accept that. We can all pursue different desires at different points in our life. That's OK with me. I think Thumper is beautiful too but I'd still like give your M1A a spin on the 1000 yard range.
Best regards to all and good luck with your long range endeavors Hunting92. Let me know if I can help.
BB your right and I'll accept being the bad boy here.
Bullet selection is critical, kinda like that faucet commercial. You find a faucet you like and build the house around it. In other words, before you spend all that money in equipment, you decide first the optimum caliber, bullet weight and type for what your attempting to achieve, then and only then is when you craft your equipment around that. For 1000 yards, Palma match shooters shoot 155 gr with 1-11 twist, 168grain plus shooters prefer a 1-10.
Congratulation DM, you made my "From Clays archives of bookmarks, places, information and things to read," list!
As for 1000+ yard shooting, nothing is more thrilling than aiming at a rock or bush lobbing 45-70 rounds and watching the dust fly! You shoot, lower the gun and wait...... POOF!
Now you guys got me wanting to build one of those laser guns
Never thought I'd ever own a I-Phone, but now I got one and starting to like the damn annoying thing.
I think that the perfect bullet weight for the 300 for long range is the 165 grain or the 168 grain. I get better results out of them than I do the 180's. I think that it may depend on what your particular gun may shoot better.
What you shooting at?
how about shooting at 1000 yds? best weight
I shoot a custom .300 Win mag for long range. I use two main loads. I use a 190 Sierra Matchking load for plinking and target shooting and I shoot the 210 grain Berger VLD for hunting and 1000+ yard shooting. I've shot the 210 on paper out to 1328 yards and on steel to 1400 yards with great success. I've shot the 190 at steel out to 1200 and they do well but you get more wind deflection.
I'm currently working on load development for 215 and 230 grain Berger Hybrids. For long range shooting like you're talking, bigger bullets are better.
I've got pictures of my rifle and some groups shot at long ranges (528-1020) on my profile. I'd be more than happy to help you as much as I can on getting set up for long range shooting. I have a lot of passion for it and have quite a bit of experience with it. If you have any particular questions please feel free to ask.
What is your set up that you're planning on using for long range? Rifle, scope etc. ?
Even shooting paper heavier bullets are better. Bigger bullets typically have higher BC's and the BC is going to have the biggest affect on wind drift. Wind is the biggest factor and challenge in long range shooting. The only way to combat wind is shoot and practice in it, and select bullets that minimize the affects of wind. To active the latter, this means selecting a high BC bullet and typically means a heavier bullet.
Yeah you can choose a light bullet if you want, but you're just making it harder on yourself in my opinion. Why make it harder than you have to?
190 grain Berger
Hunting92 never did say what his target wuz, could be Zombies!
BigBboy25. Right know I have a Winchester 300WM it is just a basic plat form rifle, with a Simmons 44 mag 6X24 X 40mm mil dot. I have been wanted to shoot long rang for awhile but haven't had a gun for it tell I bout the 300. I also just started reloading so I'm going to find a good round to shoot. I have been doing some reading on long rang shooting but still have a lot to learn. Any good tips?
BB, you can talk all you want how big that cartridge is and BC's all you want. Next time your out on the range and somebody is shooting prone, watch the shock wave go zipping through there body. One thing you have omitted is the flinch factor caused by those beloved howitzers you adore.There is a limit one person can handle, but of course, what you lack in skill you try to make up in equipment. But unfortunately, it doesn't pan out that way, in fact it works against you
I shoot a 210 Berger at 2,970 Feet per second. I have over 4,000 ft-lbs of energy at the muzzle. My rifle weighs 15 lbs and I have a break, I know you're not a fan but I really don't care. It let's me spot my own shots and watch the trace of my bullet through the scope. My .300 kicks less than most people's .308's.
Also, I never said you need a magnum. I compared your 190 suggestion to a 210 to show the benefits of a higher BC.
You can shoot long range with any cartridge, a .223, .243, 6mm BR, 6.5 BR, 6.5 Grendal, 6.5x284, .30-06, .308, .300 win mag, .300 weatherby, .338 lapua, .338 edge, .408 cheetah, .50 cal. . . anything will really work. The biggest caliber I own is a .300, that's a very common caliber for hunting out west, is it really a howitzer? I'd say the .338 win mag is more howitzer class. I don't really know where I said you need a howitzer for long range.
Also, flinch can be a problem, yes. That's an issue I don't have with my equipment. Lot's of guys buy .300 Ultras and such for long range and it's too much gun. They also shoot those .300 Ultra's with 180 grain bullets and don't fully exploit the potential of that fast shooting magnum. You have to know your limits on recoil and not exceed them.
My rifle doesn't exceed my recoil limits, and I am not making up for skill with equipment, I'm maximizing the potential of the equipment. We could go rounds of this, I post my thoughts and opinions and have explained my reasons for what I think. You've made a lot of claims without much justification for why. I'm sure you have your reasons but it'd be nice if you shared them.
watch the trace of my bullet through the scope?
That's pretty damn fast moving from position into the scope ;)
It's not when it's the Leupold on my rifle that I'm watching the trace through ;)
Okay clay, I'm done. This conversation is off topic from the post and I think you don't know much about this honestly and are just scratching at this as far as I'm concerned. The post was about bullet selection and we made our cases. Now you're bringing in flinching and attacking me based off the equipment I use. But I gave my opinion on bullet selection so I'm done wasting my time arguing.
BB25,
I might not know much, but I know that I ain't shooting any game animal @ 800-1000 yards. I'm not a fantastic hunter but I can get close enough for an ethical, killing shot under most circumstances. Pursuit of game animals is called hunting for a reason.
It might be a fun project Clay. Get you a great barrel and crank it on one of your old actions. It sure has been fun for me and I know BB25 is enjoying his new rifle too. There is no doubt that target sights on a regulation target work as well as anything at 1000 yards. However if you are hunting, a good scope really helps you to see a prairie dog at that range (or diferentiate between a deer and a bush).
RES1956, I am quite conscious of ethics too and don't think anyone should try it who is not prepared; but when I shoot at something at that range, it won't be chancy like a 20 yard shot with an arrow would be. I've gotten close to deer all my life and that just isn't as challenging to me. Long range shooting is challenging enough that it is taking me years to prepare rather than months with a bow.
DM
Shooting annoying critters at that range might be interesting. If I do take on a project like this, it will be either 338 or 416 cal, probably 338, case to use, I'll wait. Every time I look something is new out and we pretty much ran out of case designs, but the new propellants sure changes the subject for what is best?!
Today's equipment isn't your Daddies stuff!
Finally accepted the I-Phone to use, I'm just slow to warmup to something new I reckon
Thanks a lot for all the advice, I think it will really help me out. Thank you everyone.
Clay, I went with the .300 Dakota because I didn't like the recoil of the .338, .404 and .50 BMG. With heavy rifles and good muzzle brakes they are tollerable though. I would suggest looking at the .375 caliber. I think it might be the best of the bunch in the 1000-2000 yard range now that we are finally getting world class VLD bullets for that old buffalo gun. You need a 1 in 10 twist or faster to stabilize the big bullets but they fly fast with a Cheytac case. Wish I had the bucks to start that project this year but will have to wait. I'm testing some new .375 VLD bullets now and they look pretty good.
Sierra SUCKS!
BC is going to have the biggest affect on wind drift?
True the higher the BC, the less drag a bullet has thus getting there faster than a bullet the same weight thus less drop.
BigBboy25
Shot any Palma Matches yet, might learn something from that group of International Shooters :)
190 would be the heaviest I'd go,got to keep that velocity up, been dar and dun dat!
Big gun with Extraterrestrial Scope gets whooped by M1A with open sights!
YA'BUDDY!
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