I generally clean it well and put it away, then when I bring it out I use a couple drops of remington oil on a rag to wipe down my gun and its off to sight it in.
Rem Oil is a fine storage and protectant oil. Just keep it and other oils off the wood. All your guns should be pulled out every six months or so and lubricated and checked for rust.
I use 3-in-1 oil wiped on liberally with a paper towel. I don't run it down the bore/barrel and use lighter oils for the actions. Mind you I don't live in a terribly humid zone. 3-in-1 holds up in the field better than anything I have seen yet. It is a bit smelly initially but that's not a big problem for bird hunting.
If I am going to store them for a long time I clean the barrels of rifles with CR-10 to remove all the crud and then lube them inside and out with RemOil. It has worked well for me. I agree with WAM on pulling them out for a check and refresh at least every six months.
Take some steel wire and wrap it onto some part of the firearm, take the steel wire and attach it either to a chunk of magnesium or aluminum. Your gun will never rust, and in fact any rust that is on the firearm (Iron Oxide) will be converted back to steel. the magnesium/aluminum will oxidize instead of your steel. No matter what kind of conditions you store it in.
This is so effective it is used on submarines to prevent them from rusting =-)
bruised...Wow! Never have heard of that one. Here's what I think works well...Armoral (sp?) A table wax has been stated by the experts to be more protective than oil on the outside. Armoral, the original stuff, and it will say ORIGINAL on the outside because I question some of the new Armoral choices that may have specific added ingredients for certain things....is a wax, and easily applied. I use it on lots of things...my flylines, rods, rubber boots that can dry and crack when stored. Very good protection from the air elements.
In effect you are making a battery, although minuscule, it transfers the electrons to the magnesium or aluminum, which are the two best materials to use. Study some electrochemistry, or google it, and you will get your answer. In effect the magnesium/aluminum is called a "sacrificial metal".
Mg ====> Mg2+ + 2 e- instead of
Fe ====> Fe2+ + 2e-
I was referring to the missing electrolyte required for a galvanic anode cathodic protection system to work. I think you would have to be in an extremely damp environment for that to work. But hey, WTH do I know...
No, because then it will be in direct contact, which between dissimilar metals will provide a point for oxidation reduction (rust) to occur. If the wire corrodes at the sacrificial metal its of no real loss. Because it is occurring away from the gun.
I have stored guns for 2+ years with Remoil and never noticed a bit of rust. Be sure to clean them good, oil them up, and if you're really wanting to protect that gun, put it into a silicone gun sock. You can get them for <$10 at Cabelas, Sportsmans, Gander Mtn, etc.
I clean my firearms and then I use a product called "Inhibitor" premium VCI Technology in my favorite shotgun barrel (it inserts like a shotgun shell). I attach another of these to the inside wall of my gun cabinet. They are supposed to protect and stop rust up to 27 square feet for a year. So far, so good.
The web site for this company is www.theinhibitor.com and are located in Rockford Illinois (Van Patten Industries).
Don't feel bad WAM, I guess I must have been hunting the day they taught that when I was at MIT. I'm beginning to think Phd really does mean 'Piled Higher and Deeper'. All that money and I didn't even learn how to keep my guns from rusting, how embarassing, I thought G96 gun treatment was the way to go all these years,,,
I clean my firearms and then I use a product called "Inhibitor" premium VCI Technology in my favorite shotgun barrel (it inserts like a shotgun shell). I attach another of these to the inside wall of my gun cabinet. They are supposed to protect and stop rust up to 27 square feet for a year. So far, so good.
The web site for this company is www.theinhibitor.com and are located in Rockford Illinois (Van Patten Industries).
I generally clean it well and put it away, then when I bring it out I use a couple drops of remington oil on a rag to wipe down my gun and its off to sight it in.
Rem Oil is a fine storage and protectant oil. Just keep it and other oils off the wood. All your guns should be pulled out every six months or so and lubricated and checked for rust.
I use 3-in-1 oil wiped on liberally with a paper towel. I don't run it down the bore/barrel and use lighter oils for the actions. Mind you I don't live in a terribly humid zone. 3-in-1 holds up in the field better than anything I have seen yet. It is a bit smelly initially but that's not a big problem for bird hunting.
If I am going to store them for a long time I clean the barrels of rifles with CR-10 to remove all the crud and then lube them inside and out with RemOil. It has worked well for me. I agree with WAM on pulling them out for a check and refresh at least every six months.
Take some steel wire and wrap it onto some part of the firearm, take the steel wire and attach it either to a chunk of magnesium or aluminum. Your gun will never rust, and in fact any rust that is on the firearm (Iron Oxide) will be converted back to steel. the magnesium/aluminum will oxidize instead of your steel. No matter what kind of conditions you store it in.
This is so effective it is used on submarines to prevent them from rusting =-)
bruised...Wow! Never have heard of that one. Here's what I think works well...Armoral (sp?) A table wax has been stated by the experts to be more protective than oil on the outside. Armoral, the original stuff, and it will say ORIGINAL on the outside because I question some of the new Armoral choices that may have specific added ingredients for certain things....is a wax, and easily applied. I use it on lots of things...my flylines, rods, rubber boots that can dry and crack when stored. Very good protection from the air elements.
In effect you are making a battery, although minuscule, it transfers the electrons to the magnesium or aluminum, which are the two best materials to use. Study some electrochemistry, or google it, and you will get your answer. In effect the magnesium/aluminum is called a "sacrificial metal".
Mg ====> Mg2+ + 2 e- instead of
Fe ====> Fe2+ + 2e-
No, because then it will be in direct contact, which between dissimilar metals will provide a point for oxidation reduction (rust) to occur. If the wire corrodes at the sacrificial metal its of no real loss. Because it is occurring away from the gun.
I have stored guns for 2+ years with Remoil and never noticed a bit of rust. Be sure to clean them good, oil them up, and if you're really wanting to protect that gun, put it into a silicone gun sock. You can get them for <$10 at Cabelas, Sportsmans, Gander Mtn, etc.
I was referring to the missing electrolyte required for a galvanic anode cathodic protection system to work. I think you would have to be in an extremely damp environment for that to work. But hey, WTH do I know...
Don't feel bad WAM, I guess I must have been hunting the day they taught that when I was at MIT. I'm beginning to think Phd really does mean 'Piled Higher and Deeper'. All that money and I didn't even learn how to keep my guns from rusting, how embarassing, I thought G96 gun treatment was the way to go all these years,,,
Answers (15)
I generally clean it well and put it away, then when I bring it out I use a couple drops of remington oil on a rag to wipe down my gun and its off to sight it in.
Rem Oil is a fine storage and protectant oil. Just keep it and other oils off the wood. All your guns should be pulled out every six months or so and lubricated and checked for rust.
I spray the barrels and actions of my guns with RemOil and then wipe them with a rag.
I use 3-in-1 oil wiped on liberally with a paper towel. I don't run it down the bore/barrel and use lighter oils for the actions. Mind you I don't live in a terribly humid zone. 3-in-1 holds up in the field better than anything I have seen yet. It is a bit smelly initially but that's not a big problem for bird hunting.
If I am going to store them for a long time I clean the barrels of rifles with CR-10 to remove all the crud and then lube them inside and out with RemOil. It has worked well for me. I agree with WAM on pulling them out for a check and refresh at least every six months.
Here's a trick that I doubt gets circulated much.
Take some steel wire and wrap it onto some part of the firearm, take the steel wire and attach it either to a chunk of magnesium or aluminum. Your gun will never rust, and in fact any rust that is on the firearm (Iron Oxide) will be converted back to steel. the magnesium/aluminum will oxidize instead of your steel. No matter what kind of conditions you store it in.
This is so effective it is used on submarines to prevent them from rusting =-)
bruised...Wow! Never have heard of that one. Here's what I think works well...Armoral (sp?) A table wax has been stated by the experts to be more protective than oil on the outside. Armoral, the original stuff, and it will say ORIGINAL on the outside because I question some of the new Armoral choices that may have specific added ingredients for certain things....is a wax, and easily applied. I use it on lots of things...my flylines, rods, rubber boots that can dry and crack when stored. Very good protection from the air elements.
Me thinks we are missing a few elements of cathodic protection here.
WA Hunter,
In effect you are making a battery, although minuscule, it transfers the electrons to the magnesium or aluminum, which are the two best materials to use. Study some electrochemistry, or google it, and you will get your answer. In effect the magnesium/aluminum is called a "sacrificial metal".
Mg ====> Mg2+ + 2 e- instead of
Fe ====> Fe2+ + 2e-
I was referring to the missing electrolyte required for a galvanic anode cathodic protection system to work. I think you would have to be in an extremely damp environment for that to work. But hey, WTH do I know...
bruised,
How about just wrapping some aluminum foil around the barrel. Would that work?
No, because then it will be in direct contact, which between dissimilar metals will provide a point for oxidation reduction (rust) to occur. If the wire corrodes at the sacrificial metal its of no real loss. Because it is occurring away from the gun.
I have stored guns for 2+ years with Remoil and never noticed a bit of rust. Be sure to clean them good, oil them up, and if you're really wanting to protect that gun, put it into a silicone gun sock. You can get them for <$10 at Cabelas, Sportsmans, Gander Mtn, etc.
I clean my firearms and then I use a product called "Inhibitor" premium VCI Technology in my favorite shotgun barrel (it inserts like a shotgun shell). I attach another of these to the inside wall of my gun cabinet. They are supposed to protect and stop rust up to 27 square feet for a year. So far, so good.
The web site for this company is www.theinhibitor.com and are located in Rockford Illinois (Van Patten Industries).
Don't feel bad WAM, I guess I must have been hunting the day they taught that when I was at MIT. I'm beginning to think Phd really does mean 'Piled Higher and Deeper'. All that money and I didn't even learn how to keep my guns from rusting, how embarassing, I thought G96 gun treatment was the way to go all these years,,,
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I clean my firearms and then I use a product called "Inhibitor" premium VCI Technology in my favorite shotgun barrel (it inserts like a shotgun shell). I attach another of these to the inside wall of my gun cabinet. They are supposed to protect and stop rust up to 27 square feet for a year. So far, so good.
The web site for this company is www.theinhibitor.com and are located in Rockford Illinois (Van Patten Industries).
I generally clean it well and put it away, then when I bring it out I use a couple drops of remington oil on a rag to wipe down my gun and its off to sight it in.
Rem Oil is a fine storage and protectant oil. Just keep it and other oils off the wood. All your guns should be pulled out every six months or so and lubricated and checked for rust.
I spray the barrels and actions of my guns with RemOil and then wipe them with a rag.
I use 3-in-1 oil wiped on liberally with a paper towel. I don't run it down the bore/barrel and use lighter oils for the actions. Mind you I don't live in a terribly humid zone. 3-in-1 holds up in the field better than anything I have seen yet. It is a bit smelly initially but that's not a big problem for bird hunting.
If I am going to store them for a long time I clean the barrels of rifles with CR-10 to remove all the crud and then lube them inside and out with RemOil. It has worked well for me. I agree with WAM on pulling them out for a check and refresh at least every six months.
Here's a trick that I doubt gets circulated much.
Take some steel wire and wrap it onto some part of the firearm, take the steel wire and attach it either to a chunk of magnesium or aluminum. Your gun will never rust, and in fact any rust that is on the firearm (Iron Oxide) will be converted back to steel. the magnesium/aluminum will oxidize instead of your steel. No matter what kind of conditions you store it in.
This is so effective it is used on submarines to prevent them from rusting =-)
bruised...Wow! Never have heard of that one. Here's what I think works well...Armoral (sp?) A table wax has been stated by the experts to be more protective than oil on the outside. Armoral, the original stuff, and it will say ORIGINAL on the outside because I question some of the new Armoral choices that may have specific added ingredients for certain things....is a wax, and easily applied. I use it on lots of things...my flylines, rods, rubber boots that can dry and crack when stored. Very good protection from the air elements.
WA Hunter,
In effect you are making a battery, although minuscule, it transfers the electrons to the magnesium or aluminum, which are the two best materials to use. Study some electrochemistry, or google it, and you will get your answer. In effect the magnesium/aluminum is called a "sacrificial metal".
Mg ====> Mg2+ + 2 e- instead of
Fe ====> Fe2+ + 2e-
No, because then it will be in direct contact, which between dissimilar metals will provide a point for oxidation reduction (rust) to occur. If the wire corrodes at the sacrificial metal its of no real loss. Because it is occurring away from the gun.
I have stored guns for 2+ years with Remoil and never noticed a bit of rust. Be sure to clean them good, oil them up, and if you're really wanting to protect that gun, put it into a silicone gun sock. You can get them for <$10 at Cabelas, Sportsmans, Gander Mtn, etc.
Me thinks we are missing a few elements of cathodic protection here.
I was referring to the missing electrolyte required for a galvanic anode cathodic protection system to work. I think you would have to be in an extremely damp environment for that to work. But hey, WTH do I know...
bruised,
How about just wrapping some aluminum foil around the barrel. Would that work?
Don't feel bad WAM, I guess I must have been hunting the day they taught that when I was at MIT. I'm beginning to think Phd really does mean 'Piled Higher and Deeper'. All that money and I didn't even learn how to keep my guns from rusting, how embarassing, I thought G96 gun treatment was the way to go all these years,,,
Post an Answer