Q:
alright, i live in south eastern carolina, i got somethin on my property that is slick enough to stay out of my traps, but always takes every, every bit of the bait, i just started settin trail cams, but no luck yet, im thinkin its somethin like a smart fox, or a coyote, or a bobcat...any suggestions on what it might be or how i can get this son of a gun
Question by realtreegamehunter. Uploaded on January 03, 2012
Answers (13)
Your question is to vag to answer. Traps dyed and clean. Type of sets, type of traps and what are you baiting with and locations of traps would also be helpful. South Carolina has a number of animals that can and will elude a trapper. Coons' possum (even as dumb as they are) Cats both house and bobcat. Foxes & coyote, dogs, squirels ,rats and least we not mention "HUMANS" they are probably the best eluders of all
i was baiting with guts left over from...anything i shoot, and im using box traps
It may be a coyote that is small enough to get its head in to get your bait but too big to get into the box trap. That is just a guess not a scientific answer.
It's mice, I can almost say that for certain. Every time we hit a warm spell (say just about freezing), the mice are a plague. Once a week I help a fella check a very large trapline about forty miles from town. I noticed that Ward always thumped the martin boxes before he peered over into them to check the bait. Never really asked him why. I found out the hard way last weekend. Looked into a box only to have a mouse almost run up my nose! Actually, it was jet black and pretty small so it might have been a shrew. You definitely DO NOT want to get your face very close to one of those vicious, fearless little devils! Use something for bait with more bone too it. Mice can't carry off the bone and even if they clean it, there is usually enough scent left to attract something. Good luck.
I'd say you got a stray hillbilly down from Kentucky, or Tennessee. Probably one of those darn Hatfields, or a McCoy.
i never thought about it being a little rodent critter, but the only thing about that is 2 nights ago i set out a whole squirrel, skinned and gutted open, all of it..gone
A good friend of mine had the same trouble, it turned out to be a spotted skunk thay are smaller then a striped skunk??
Might be weasles. A size 120 conibear killer trap will nail them. What size are you using and how big is the box? Even larger animals will get nailed with a 120 or a 220 (same size with stronger springs). A month ago we picked up a nice lynx that stuck his head in a 120 size box. Crushed his skull. Make your box about two feet long and to exact dimensions of the cocked traps. Place the bait in the middle and a trap at both open ends of the box. Slots for holding the conibear trap don't need to be more than an inch or two into the box, that way the larger animals can get their face into it far enough to get snapped. We seem to get more weasles in the tree-mounted vertical martin boxes. Pretty little things this time of year but not worth a whole lot.
Are your traps getting sprung? If that is the case it may be a coon reaching in and then able to pull himself free. Coons have only just arrived in this country and we haven't trapped any yet but I would say that they probably have the intelligence, dexterity, and strength to extract themselves from a leg-hold trap. Cats won't do that. They're too wimpy. If caught by just a toe, they'll sit there till they freeze to death. If you're using leg-hold traps, I strongly suggest switching to conibear killer traps. They are not only more humane, but also almost faultlessly effective.
do you know where i can get a conibear trap? no my trap aint gettin sprung, but if i do place bait in the backits gone, but the trap is wide open, its a larger size box trap, its for coons, oppossum, and critters that size...i recon your in canada? coons are good, mamma always made a good coon stew when i was a little boy
Lots of places on line sell conibear type traps. You can find them at Cabela's too (although those guys won't get another dime of my money - I won't help finance an outfit that supports parceling up and selling off the last tracts of hunting land in the US that's still accessible to public). Here's a link: http://www.cabelas.ca/store/?section=1190§ion2=1326§ion3=1505
Anything that gets into a conibear trap is going to get killed - cats & dogs included. You can find lots of instructions on the net on how to set up a conibear tunnel trap above ground so that at least the dogs will have difficulty getting into one. It's virtually impossible for a dog to get caught in a conibear placed in a martin box. This type of set is also good for other species of fur-bearing critters, particularly mink and weasels. Doesn't sound like coons are your problem. Probably weasels. Go with 120 size. They are strong enough to hold a coon if he tries to reach in. Usually they will at least stick their nose in the tube/box/tunnel first to get a smell. If set properly that will be enough for conibear to nail him dead!
I would guess mice, weasles, or racoons, what I would do would be to wet the area a lot around one of the traps, then look for the tracks in the mud. You can also revamp your trap to have a hair trigger that sets when whatever is stealing your bait breathes in it. I have found most live box traps are hard to spring and have had to use various meathods of changing them to make them better. A few tricks I have found- use veggie oil on all the moving parts it lubricates them and can get the animals playing with them so they spring the trap once inside; also, I have had to grind down the setting bar in order to make it shorter so the trap gets sprung easier.
i like that idea about wettin the dirt, thats cool man, thanks
A box trap makes all the difference in the world. You have to plae the bait away from the edge so they can't just reach in and grab it. Wire the bait to the backside of the trigger. Cover the box with sone brush or some thing and force the catch to only be able to smel the bait. As an added bonos add a #1.5 coil offset in the front of the trap bout 3" right over left and add a jump stick just in front of the trap. Make sure it is bedded good with the stake under the trap with a swivel. If it is mink or weasel the 1.5 will body catch them. If it is of the dog family they will be foot caught. If you use vegetable oil or any oil for that matter the animal will smell it and dig looking for it. Waxed and dyed or covered with plastic wrap in a pinch. Dust the front trap with "DRY" dirt. Unless you use some type of antifreeze the trap could freeze with water, even in Carolina
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Your question is to vag to answer. Traps dyed and clean. Type of sets, type of traps and what are you baiting with and locations of traps would also be helpful. South Carolina has a number of animals that can and will elude a trapper. Coons' possum (even as dumb as they are) Cats both house and bobcat. Foxes & coyote, dogs, squirels ,rats and least we not mention "HUMANS" they are probably the best eluders of all
i was baiting with guts left over from...anything i shoot, and im using box traps
It may be a coyote that is small enough to get its head in to get your bait but too big to get into the box trap. That is just a guess not a scientific answer.
It's mice, I can almost say that for certain. Every time we hit a warm spell (say just about freezing), the mice are a plague. Once a week I help a fella check a very large trapline about forty miles from town. I noticed that Ward always thumped the martin boxes before he peered over into them to check the bait. Never really asked him why. I found out the hard way last weekend. Looked into a box only to have a mouse almost run up my nose! Actually, it was jet black and pretty small so it might have been a shrew. You definitely DO NOT want to get your face very close to one of those vicious, fearless little devils! Use something for bait with more bone too it. Mice can't carry off the bone and even if they clean it, there is usually enough scent left to attract something. Good luck.
I'd say you got a stray hillbilly down from Kentucky, or Tennessee. Probably one of those darn Hatfields, or a McCoy.
i never thought about it being a little rodent critter, but the only thing about that is 2 nights ago i set out a whole squirrel, skinned and gutted open, all of it..gone
A good friend of mine had the same trouble, it turned out to be a spotted skunk thay are smaller then a striped skunk??
Might be weasles. A size 120 conibear killer trap will nail them. What size are you using and how big is the box? Even larger animals will get nailed with a 120 or a 220 (same size with stronger springs). A month ago we picked up a nice lynx that stuck his head in a 120 size box. Crushed his skull. Make your box about two feet long and to exact dimensions of the cocked traps. Place the bait in the middle and a trap at both open ends of the box. Slots for holding the conibear trap don't need to be more than an inch or two into the box, that way the larger animals can get their face into it far enough to get snapped. We seem to get more weasles in the tree-mounted vertical martin boxes. Pretty little things this time of year but not worth a whole lot.
Are your traps getting sprung? If that is the case it may be a coon reaching in and then able to pull himself free. Coons have only just arrived in this country and we haven't trapped any yet but I would say that they probably have the intelligence, dexterity, and strength to extract themselves from a leg-hold trap. Cats won't do that. They're too wimpy. If caught by just a toe, they'll sit there till they freeze to death. If you're using leg-hold traps, I strongly suggest switching to conibear killer traps. They are not only more humane, but also almost faultlessly effective.
do you know where i can get a conibear trap? no my trap aint gettin sprung, but if i do place bait in the backits gone, but the trap is wide open, its a larger size box trap, its for coons, oppossum, and critters that size...i recon your in canada? coons are good, mamma always made a good coon stew when i was a little boy
Lots of places on line sell conibear type traps. You can find them at Cabela's too (although those guys won't get another dime of my money - I won't help finance an outfit that supports parceling up and selling off the last tracts of hunting land in the US that's still accessible to public). Here's a link: http://www.cabelas.ca/store/?section=1190§ion2=1326§ion3=1505
Anything that gets into a conibear trap is going to get killed - cats & dogs included. You can find lots of instructions on the net on how to set up a conibear tunnel trap above ground so that at least the dogs will have difficulty getting into one. It's virtually impossible for a dog to get caught in a conibear placed in a martin box. This type of set is also good for other species of fur-bearing critters, particularly mink and weasels. Doesn't sound like coons are your problem. Probably weasels. Go with 120 size. They are strong enough to hold a coon if he tries to reach in. Usually they will at least stick their nose in the tube/box/tunnel first to get a smell. If set properly that will be enough for conibear to nail him dead!
I would guess mice, weasles, or racoons, what I would do would be to wet the area a lot around one of the traps, then look for the tracks in the mud. You can also revamp your trap to have a hair trigger that sets when whatever is stealing your bait breathes in it. I have found most live box traps are hard to spring and have had to use various meathods of changing them to make them better. A few tricks I have found- use veggie oil on all the moving parts it lubricates them and can get the animals playing with them so they spring the trap once inside; also, I have had to grind down the setting bar in order to make it shorter so the trap gets sprung easier.
i like that idea about wettin the dirt, thats cool man, thanks
A box trap makes all the difference in the world. You have to plae the bait away from the edge so they can't just reach in and grab it. Wire the bait to the backside of the trigger. Cover the box with sone brush or some thing and force the catch to only be able to smel the bait. As an added bonos add a #1.5 coil offset in the front of the trap bout 3" right over left and add a jump stick just in front of the trap. Make sure it is bedded good with the stake under the trap with a swivel. If it is mink or weasel the 1.5 will body catch them. If it is of the dog family they will be foot caught. If you use vegetable oil or any oil for that matter the animal will smell it and dig looking for it. Waxed and dyed or covered with plastic wrap in a pinch. Dust the front trap with "DRY" dirt. Unless you use some type of antifreeze the trap could freeze with water, even in Carolina
Post an Answer