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Question by Del in KS. Uploaded on March 13, 2010
I have heard they work great, but I would rather just have a good recoil pad like a Limb Saver.
I put one in my 7mm Rem. Mag. and it definitely helped. I don't have any measurements of force, just how my shoulder feels, and it feels better. I also put a limb saver recoil pad and between the two of them, it tamed that rifle right down.
your getting old Del B)
Not getting old, I am old haha.
The plan is to add a recoil pad AND the recoil reducer. That 350 is a light gun and 200 grain bullet at 2910 fps generates some heavy recoil.
I have never used a mercury reducer, but know several who do. They all claim they help felt recoil reduction. Additionally, One fellow says his rifle balances better.
Del, you might consider installing your Limbsaver first and see how you like it. I am shooting HOT .300 Dakota loads with 210g bullets (at nearly twice the muzzle energy of the .350) and it REALLY made a lot more difference than I was expecting. They really work great and I am a big fan. I suspect your .350 will be manageable with just that. I have not used the mercury reducers though... sorry.
I shot a .358 Norma Magnum with a mercury recoil device and I thought that the rifle was very manageable even from the bench. I've never shot the same caliber without the device so I don't have a great comparison.
That rig should not kick anymore than my .35 Whelen with 225 grain loads. That Limbsaver made the felt recoil quite manageable. Those factory butt pads, i hesitate to call them recoil pads, on the 700 Classics are like a steel butt plate when it comes to felt recoil reduction. I think I would buy a take off stock off of eBay for modification and leave the factory stock intact for resale value. That's what I did.
FYI I have used the 35 Whelen as well as the 358 Norma. The latter has more recoil than the former. Like both calibers and currently you can purchase high quality bullets in 35 caliber, wish I still owned both rifles
One of my wife's older cousins has a .358 Norma Magnum on a Husqvarna Mauser action. I only fired it once with some rather warm 250 grain loads and as I recall, it kicked like a rented mule. I have considered trying to trade him out of it, but don't think that I would use it much. I have killed almost every head of elk that I have taken with the .35 Whelen and many deer. I have only had one critter walk away from a hit and that was because I failed to take a follow up shot when he did not go down immediately. I will concede that it is not the ultimate elk caliber by the expert's standards, but its performance for me speaks volumes! That rifle, a fast 7mm, and a .30-06 are my deer and elk battery. Occasionally, I will hunt timber with one of my Savage 99's or deer hunt with my .257 Roberts or .308 Win just for a change.
BTW it isn't that I can't take a little recoil. The problem is I don't want to develop a flinch.
I understand completely. I don't WANT to take more recoil. Some folks complain about the recoil on the .35 Whelen compared to their 7mm Rem mags and .30-06's. Personally, I can't tell much difference. Now that .300 and 340 Weatherby and .338 Win mag is a different story. I believe that they kick harder, so therefore they do! My 7mm Weatherby burns way more powder than a 7mm Rem mag, but to me recoils about the same. My Weatherby is a fairly heavy rifle, so it does not bother me.
I agree Del... I can actually take a LOT of recoil if I absolutely have too but I just don't want to develop a flinch. Something like the .338 Lapua just gives me bad habits and I don't need that. I shoot an 11 pound .375 H&H and a .300 Dakota with good Limbsaver recoil pads and I consider them quite manageable in recoil with 11 pound weight in each rifle. A lighter rifle is nice for elk hunting though. I forgot to mention, that I usually use a Lead Sled for working up loads and target practice with bigger magnums and that really helps me prevent a flinch. That is a handy piece of equipment if you own a thumper or two.
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