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How to Choose Leaders and Tippets when Fly Fishing

When fish don't strike, chances are it's not your fly or your casting, it's your leader.

Take me to your leader, and chances are we’ll be able to fix some of your flyfishing problems. Leaders are among the basic elements of fly tackle, but the essentials of leader design and performance get the least attention from most anglers. When your fly is landing off target, or you can’t get a drag-free drift, don’t automatically blame your casting. Check your leader.

Leaders in Theory…
Knotless leaders of nylon monofilament are common these days, but the basic taper designs are old. The flyfishing pioneer and French hotelier Charles Ritz worked out the basic 60-20-20 leader formula in the early days of mono after World War II. By his design, 60 percent of a leader’s length is a level, large-diameter butt; 20 percent is a steeply tapered transition; and the last 20 percent is a fine-diameter tippet to which the fly is tied.

The leader-butt diameter should be two-thirds of the diameter of the end of your fly line for best performance. The 5-weight fly line you may use for fishing small dry flies has a tip diameter of about .030 inch. The 9-foot, 6X leader you attach to it should then have a butt diameter of about .020 inch. Most light trout leaders conform to that standard.
Problems may occur when you start switching line, leader, or fly sizes. The leader taper that works for small dry flies on a 5-weight won’t work for big steelhead dries on an 8-weight, and vice versa. The tip diameter of an 8-weight floating line is about .040 inch, requiring a larger .026-inch-diameter leader butt to get the leader to turn a large fly over properly in casting.

You don’t need a micrometer in your vest to keep track of all the numbers, because many manufacturers label their packaging with both the butt and tippet diameters. Some companies even distinguish their leaders by species, such as trout or bass. In this case, trout should mean a small-butt, small-fly leader; and bass, the opposite.

…And in Practice
Modern knotless leaders are designed for the law of averages: average casters casting ­average-size flies to an average distance. Trouble is, most fly anglers constantly change fly sizes and casting distances, so no leader is perfect all the time. Here are some tricks that will solve many of your problems:

If your dry fly is falling back on the leader dramatically when you make a presentation, shorten the tippet by a foot, use a tippet one size larger, or both. This is often a problem when you’re switching from a small dry fly to one that is larger and less aerodynamic. The same remedy will also help you punch a dry fly into the wind. If you can’t get a drag-free drift, on the other hand, lengthen your tippet by 1 or 2 feet, which will create a bit of slack leader near the fly when it lands.

In both bass and saltwater fishing, where larger lines and flies are used, I solve most leader problems by using a heavier butt section with 9-weight lines and above. That might mean about 3 feet of 50-pound mono (.030 inch diameter) at the end of the fly line to which I attach a knotless, tapered leader after cutting a couple of feet off its smaller-diameter butt. The increased leader-butt mass then helps to extend heavier flies at the end of the cast.

Changing a tippet section takes just a few minutes on the water. Granted, it’s another thing to keep track of while you’re fishing, but paying attention to those sorts of details will definitely catch you more fish.

Comments (8)

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from KingFisher907 wrote 20 weeks 2 days ago

great tips, thanks a bunch!

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from jeffo52284 wrote 20 weeks 1 day ago

Thanks for writing this article. I just started fly fishing this year and leaders and tippits were the things I was most confused about. great article!

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from Brian W. Thair wrote 19 weeks 4 days ago

When your cast and final presentation are really clean, learn to tie barrel knots. First, you can make up any leader you like. I can't remember ever fishing a mountain river with no wind. Second, you can add 2' of tippet to any tapered leader so they don't get continually chewed off as you change flies.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from j-johnson17 wrote 19 weeks 3 days ago

I'm with Brian - for trout I like to use a 7 1/2' tapered leader, then add about 2' of tippet material to the leader before you tie on your first fly. By doing this, you will extend the life of your leader dramatically. If you compare the cost of tippet material to leaders, there is no question which is more expensive.

Great article. Thanks for the tips.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from Drag-Free Drift wrote 18 weeks 4 days ago

Years ago, I read John Merwin's comprehensive work _The New American Fly Fishing_, a great all-inclusive introduction for the serious fly fisherman. It is in its second edition, I believe in paperback, and I strongly recommend it to anyone at any level of fly fishing as a reference.

As to leaders, there are issues with knotless tapered leaders, mostly with the butt sections. Because of people's tendency to regard doing things quicky as doing them better, many companies now go with loop conections, which are inefficient in transfering the energy of a cast to turn over the leader. A second problem with over-the-counter leaders is their butt sections (typically American;-) are too fat! While you don't necessarily need a micrometer to calibrate a leader to your line, you ought to consider holding loops of the same size of the butt section of the leader you intend to use and the end section of your fly line next to each other for comparison. Using our finger, push down on them and see which is stiffer. If the leader is stiffer, there will be a problem in the transfer of a constant loop in the cast. As implied in the article, the butt section (what I call the energy transfer section) of the leader should be less stiff than the end section of the line. What Mr. Merwin implies is that fly lines are consistent in their diamter, and I think, while that might have been true at one time, fly lines are quite variable in their tapers, so a manual check of stiffness is my choice. If you use a loop connection, this is even more critical, because of the inefficient connection. But leaders and fly lines are not made of the same materials, so rather than use diameter, try to compare the stiffness with the simple qualitative test I described.

Like many, I regard tying knots in leaders as a nuisance, but a well-tied nail knot is a much better way of connecting a leader to your line. If you are concerned about changing leaders and cutting into your line, attach a 12-15 inch section of an appropriate diamter monofilament and tie it to the butt section of the leader with a blood knot. I use a foot-long section of 15 or 20 lb test chartreuse Amnesia on some lines, as it also acts as a kind of strike indicator. I think you'll see a difference in how well the leader turns over.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from leifjohn wrote 18 weeks 2 days ago

Great article! Until now I don't think have heard of the 60-20-20 formula. This is great for people who like to tie their own leaders.

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from RobinHood wrote 6 weeks 13 hours ago

It is always good to hear someone remind us that it is better to take five minutes on the water to change your gear to make it correct than to spend another 30 minutes being stubborn and fishing the same gear that isn't working. With time on the water limited as is, a great article to reinforce some great habits.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from BarkinSpider wrote 3 weeks 23 hours ago

I could have wrote this! Oh wait, never mind. I thought it said LOOSE leaders and tippets...

+1 Good Comment? | | Report

Post a Comment

from KingFisher907 wrote 20 weeks 2 days ago

great tips, thanks a bunch!

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from jeffo52284 wrote 20 weeks 1 day ago

Thanks for writing this article. I just started fly fishing this year and leaders and tippits were the things I was most confused about. great article!

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from leifjohn wrote 18 weeks 2 days ago

Great article! Until now I don't think have heard of the 60-20-20 formula. This is great for people who like to tie their own leaders.

+2 Good Comment? | | Report
from Brian W. Thair wrote 19 weeks 4 days ago

When your cast and final presentation are really clean, learn to tie barrel knots. First, you can make up any leader you like. I can't remember ever fishing a mountain river with no wind. Second, you can add 2' of tippet to any tapered leader so they don't get continually chewed off as you change flies.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from j-johnson17 wrote 19 weeks 3 days ago

I'm with Brian - for trout I like to use a 7 1/2' tapered leader, then add about 2' of tippet material to the leader before you tie on your first fly. By doing this, you will extend the life of your leader dramatically. If you compare the cost of tippet material to leaders, there is no question which is more expensive.

Great article. Thanks for the tips.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from Drag-Free Drift wrote 18 weeks 4 days ago

Years ago, I read John Merwin's comprehensive work _The New American Fly Fishing_, a great all-inclusive introduction for the serious fly fisherman. It is in its second edition, I believe in paperback, and I strongly recommend it to anyone at any level of fly fishing as a reference.

As to leaders, there are issues with knotless tapered leaders, mostly with the butt sections. Because of people's tendency to regard doing things quicky as doing them better, many companies now go with loop conections, which are inefficient in transfering the energy of a cast to turn over the leader. A second problem with over-the-counter leaders is their butt sections (typically American;-) are too fat! While you don't necessarily need a micrometer to calibrate a leader to your line, you ought to consider holding loops of the same size of the butt section of the leader you intend to use and the end section of your fly line next to each other for comparison. Using our finger, push down on them and see which is stiffer. If the leader is stiffer, there will be a problem in the transfer of a constant loop in the cast. As implied in the article, the butt section (what I call the energy transfer section) of the leader should be less stiff than the end section of the line. What Mr. Merwin implies is that fly lines are consistent in their diamter, and I think, while that might have been true at one time, fly lines are quite variable in their tapers, so a manual check of stiffness is my choice. If you use a loop connection, this is even more critical, because of the inefficient connection. But leaders and fly lines are not made of the same materials, so rather than use diameter, try to compare the stiffness with the simple qualitative test I described.

Like many, I regard tying knots in leaders as a nuisance, but a well-tied nail knot is a much better way of connecting a leader to your line. If you are concerned about changing leaders and cutting into your line, attach a 12-15 inch section of an appropriate diamter monofilament and tie it to the butt section of the leader with a blood knot. I use a foot-long section of 15 or 20 lb test chartreuse Amnesia on some lines, as it also acts as a kind of strike indicator. I think you'll see a difference in how well the leader turns over.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from RobinHood wrote 6 weeks 13 hours ago

It is always good to hear someone remind us that it is better to take five minutes on the water to change your gear to make it correct than to spend another 30 minutes being stubborn and fishing the same gear that isn't working. With time on the water limited as is, a great article to reinforce some great habits.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from BarkinSpider wrote 3 weeks 23 hours ago

I could have wrote this! Oh wait, never mind. I thought it said LOOSE leaders and tippets...

+1 Good Comment? | | Report

Post a Comment