Store bought powder tricklers I find to be a pain; instead I use a fired rifle casing 25-06 or 30-06. The biggest mistake I see most often is those who especially reload rifle they don’t weigh each and every charge thus blowing out primer pockets, most of all hard to open bolts you have to hammer them open and case trim to length. Once in a while, I get some clown on the range ready to chamber a cartridge with case lubricant oozing trying to convince me it’s safe to shoot. One person chose unwisely and was kicked off the range!
http://www.imrpowder.com/
For you gas gun rifle shooters remember this, because you will not find this in any reloading book. The best way to damage a gas gun and possible body injury is by using slow burning powder such as IMR4831 and IMR7828.
Powders I would recommend for 30 cal gas gun rifle loads 308 and 30-06 are

69 Hodgdon H4895
70 Vihtavouri N530
71 IMR, Co IMR4895
72 Vihtavouri N135
73 Alliant Reloder 12
74 IMR, Co IMR4320
75 Accurate Arms 2495BR
76 IMR, Co IMR4064
77 NORMA 202
78 Accurate Arms 2520
79 Alliant Reloder 15
80 Vihtavouri N140
81 Hodgdon VARGET
82 Winchester 748
83 Hodgdon BL-C(2)

http://www.imrpowder.com/burn-rate.html

My favorite "Gas Gun" powders are IMR4895, IMR4064 and Winchester 748. I use these three for both hunting and my M1 Garand and M1A.

The reason slow burning powders damage a gas gun is the pressure curve is too high at the gas port to operate the bolt. I had a friend though it was cute to fire one of my 30-06 190 grain “Bolt Gun Loads” in his Remington Semi Auto 30-06. Not only it kicked the snot out of him, it almost ripped the base off and I’m surprised it didn’t break the ejector and other part, very lucky and yes I told him those were bolt gun loads and his rounds were on the dash board in the cab and not in back of the truck.

By the way

The best way to blow your head off is, if you have a loaded round and forget to put a primer in it, do one of two things. Either pull the bullet or toss it. It's not worth blowing yourself up!

One of my friends was killed priming a charged 30-06 case. The seating die acted like a bomb casing!

It’s a dangerous thing to do don’t try this. A primer slowly squeezed in a vice more than likely will not detonate however a sharp rap will!

idahooutdoors

308 Military Match cases make sweet 243's, just remember to trim them to length and reduce your load by 2 grains and the work back up!

Can I get an AMEN for BROTHER Del in KS!

Attention to detail is your first defense!

and ENJOY!!!

I think the next time my hunt/outing is rained out, I'm going to make 100 rounds of 7.62NATO Mexican Match!

i just got my reloaders this week, does anyone know a good powder scale.

OOPS I pulled the triger to soon!

Mexican Match is darn good stuf by the way, if you do it right!

How many times can I reload (properly trimmed) casings without thinking about annealing the necks? I am just getting a start on this reloading process.

CPT BRAD and Group

What is Mexican Match?

Glad you asked!

Many moons ago after World War II, Military Surplus Ammo was very abundant. Problem is, they were all “FULL METAL JACKETED AMMO”. Reloaders down in the Southwest caught onto a practice were you pull the undesired FMJ Bullet and reneck size the case and seat a desired bullet of the same weight or a tad less.

Competition shooters love military cases would pull the FMJ’s and reseat a “MATCH GRADE BULLET”. In Mexico, this was a common practice because of all the 30-40 Krag and other ammo with FMJ and they pulled the bullet and reseat a "HUNTING BULLET" and this is where the term “MEXICAN MATCH” came from!

Happy Myles

Terms like that can tell you the places the person has been :)

As far as I remember, my bedroom whas my Fathers reloading room and the stories I listend to, WOW!

I've been loading ammo since '79 and have a few guns that have never seen a factory load. Yes, there is significant savings, but there is also a high satisfaction factor from rolling your own. My bench sees a host of rifle, handgun, and 12 gauge rounds with .338-06 A-Square and .480 Ruger coming soon. The RCBS press sits on the right, the Mec on the left, with the arrow fletching jig in the cabinet under the bench, and my son has started sharing the bench with me as well. In addition to the cost savings, when was the last time you saw a box of .30 Herrett ammo on the shelf?

Hey buck hunter 17

If the kit comes with a lubing pad, toss that damn thing in the trash!! It’s the best way to destroy your sizing die, NO JOKE! The pad collects dirt and carbon on the casing and it will scratch the hell out of it and in no way can you clean your cases well enough and it only takes one time! I put a dab of sizing lube on the on my thumb, middle and trigger finger. You can control the amount of lube much better.

007 A 338 06 A Square? There is a name from the past. I own a 460 Short A Square, probably the most accurate 500 gain shooting rifle I've ever used. Lots of pressure, however.

s

I did it again, regarding the 460 Short A Square it should read 500 grain, not 500 gain. It is a heck of a rifle, never got enough publicity. I believe a 460 Weatherby shortened case, just seems to work at 2400 ft plus, but never caught on.

Happy Myles, perhaps you need more education in the history of reloading and more so in experience of Sir :)

I handloaded in the military back in 1970 - 7MM Rem Mag for a sniper rifle and .357 Mag for my Ruger Blackhawke back-up. I was introduced to Lee Products and they worked in any conditions.

I recently bought a Lee Pro 1000 progressive (from Cheaper than Dirt) for .40 S&W, and dies for .38/.357, 9MM and M1 Carbine through Gunbroker.com and am set to go. For larger rifle rounds I will get the LeeBasic Package and be set for almost any caliber.

Lee guarantees their products and are VERY helpful when you call because they are ALL firearm enthusiasts and supporters. They'll never let you down.

And if you load your first rounds AT THE MINIMUM, you shouldn't be afraid to pull the trigger. Then work up from there. Remember, the people who put that data into the reloading manuals, like Lee's, spent a LOT of time and energy and expertise into testing the loads - because THEY handload them before they print the data! I trust them, and so should you.

Happy Myles, I like unusual calibers, something that the rest of the crowds don't have, and enjoy reloading, therefore the A-Square, fed a diet of 200 gr. Hornady interlocks. .338 Win Mag performace without the abuse.

Sorry for the duplication there, don't know how I did that.

Reloading is an enjoyable part of the shooting sports for me. I have never loaded pistol ammo, but shotgun and, lately, rifle stuff. I might be accused of having obsessive compulsive disorder, but for the rifle I weigh each powder charge and am not happy if it's not to the tenth of a grain. Probably not critical for the distances I shoot, but I just like doing it right. For the .308 I don't save a lot (but still some) and I probably get better ammo. For the .300 Rem Ultra Mag it's almost an economic necessity.

I started with an RCBS kit for around $300, a little more maybe. I have used the Lee kit a friend owns and it works fine for $150 or less. Having someone walk you through it the first time helps the nerves for sure.

The quality of the dies from this or that company is pretty easy to see, but in production, my Lee dies work as well as the Redding as the RCBS.

Anyone having trouble getting components?

Buddy of mine turned me on to re-loading and have'nt looked back. The most important thing to have next to good equipment,so PLENTY of re-load books of all sorts most can be bought used at gun shows or at used book stores and will save you cash.

Some good information in the column. I've been loading for a long time, since mid 60's. Started with a single station c-press, a lyman, still use it today for priming cases. Got a Lyman turret and works great. I use Lee pistol/rifle (deluxe) dies for most shooting. Precision shooting I use other dies.
I have been a gunsmith/armorer for almost the same number of years and have brought a lot of folks into handloading. Teaching them to use all safety rules and safe handling is first and constant thing.

Today I still chase the ever ellusive "perfect load" that gives the hole in a hole result. The chase is as fun as a rabbit dog on a trail. I load for 5.56,25cal,6.5cal.44spec,44mag and for a SRT 30win mag.

I have good results with Hodgen and Alliant and IMR in the above cals.
The greatest satisfaction is brewing up a load take them to the range and they all touch. Thats a good day shooting.

Guy's, I noticed all the good help to the people just reloading ,but a couple things left out...Dave said to keep good accurate records of the progress, this is important as also to load in an area where there are nothing to distract you. My rules I always add when talking reloads is, 1.) Never reload for any one else...2.) never shoot anyone else's reloads. we people talk about manuals, don't go overboard, acouple manual along with all the free info from the internet is all that's needed. Most people don't reload more than a couple different cartridges. One or two manuals with the infor for this couple cartridges should be enough. Also always inspect your cases.

I beg to differ with those who downplay annealing brass. I find that when a neck splits,or the neck won't hold the bullet, it is time to anneal that whole lot. You can then get a lot more loads out of the remainder of the lot. Over the years, I have extended the life of brass many times over! I was annealing 280 brass in the early 70's when I had only about 80 rds and was shooting metallic silhouette matches. 280 brass just wasn't available and the resized '06 stuff just didn't do it! I have no idea how many loads I got out of that brass but it was a hell of a lot more than 10 times! Something else that extends brass life are/is the Lee Collett dies. Doesn't work the necks like the expander button does.

Someone mentioned using 308 Military Match for .243 Win. Good idea but they definately need to have the necks turned. Sizing them down thickens the neck significantly and the .243 is a pretty hot cartridge anyhow and has probably blown more primers than any other everyday cartridge! Probably if the brass is nearly new, it is annealled already but watch pressures! You will soon need to anneall.

I find that case separation is more common in belted magnums and heavy loaded-hi-velocity loads. Also, I find that to be more common in Nickel-plated bottleneck cases ( not straight cases like 44 mag) than in plain brass. Noting you can do to prevent that except to keep your loads down, --that'll probably be most accurate anyway but watch for a shiney ring around the lower part of the case. Then get a new batch.

My qualification to make these statements aren't much but I bought my last box of factory loads in early 1965! I have no idea how many pounds of powder I have burnt but I do remember taking my own can in and paying $1 a pound for the old 4831!

I had to laugh at the folks that say reloading will save you money. Its all relative. An individual box of ammo might be cheaper therefore saving money, but I can't say that reloading saves me money, because there is always some new gadget, or some new bullet or powder, or reloading book. If you save up enough brass for a gun you don't already have, when you get enough of it, you are justified in buying a gun that it will work in.(aren't you?) Reloading hasn't saved me any money, because I just buy more stuff, but I wouldn't have it any other way. What a great hobbie! Started reloading in the mid 60's, and like one of the other folks, I have several guns that have never seen a factory round. Get some one else hooked.

I don't shoot rifles much but do shoot a lot of shotguns. Is it just as economical to re-load shotgun shells as it is rifles? Also can the same basic equipment be used for both?

Just for grins and giggles I got comparing the cartridges old to the new and to see what all the fuss how good the WSSM’s are.
As you can see, there is no real advantage of these new RSM, WSM and WSSM over the old cartridges.

I also tossed my loading data in also for comparison and to show how reloading can improve the performance of a cartridge. The only advantage I see in the RSM, WSM and WSSM’s, is the additional price you pay!

In no way should anyone try any of this loading data without checking for accuracy and proper reloading procedures set forth by the reloading industry standards and procedures period!
25-06 100 grain Nosler Partition @ 3295 fps
Hybrid 100V 52.5

25 WSSM Speer Boat Tail @ 3264 fps
BL-C (2) 44.5

Clay 25-06 100 grain Hornady Soft point @ 3550 fps
IMR4831 55.0 Federal 215 primer
……………………………………………………………………………..
25-06 120 Grain Speer Soft Point @ 3049 fps
IMR 4350 52.0

25 WSSM 120 grain Swift Soft Point @ 2985 FPS
H414 44.7

Clay 25-06 117 grain Hornady SPBT @ 3267 fps
IMR4831 54.0 Federal 215 primer

25 WSSM doesn’t have the powder capacity as the 25-06 which can be pumped up almost to the 257 Weatherby Magnum velocities.

7mm Rem Mag 140 grain Nosler Partition @ 3138 fps
Hybrid 100V 63.0

7mm WSM 140 grain Nosler Partition @ 3161 fps
IMR4350 63.2

Clay 7mm Rem Mag 139 grain Hornady @ 3200 fps
IMR4831 66.7
……………………………………………………………………………….

7mm Rem Mag 175 Grain Nosler Partition @ 2800
Retumbo 68.0

7mm WSM 175 grain Speer Mag Tip @ 2850
Supreme 780 68.0

Clay 7mm Rem Mag 175 Grain Hornady @ 2939
H450 65.5

30-06 150 grain Nosler BT @ 3016
IMR4320 52.3

300 Ruger Compact Magnum @ 3081
Hornady Inner Bond
IMR4350 63.0

300 WSM 150 Speer Grand Slam SP @ 3221
IMR4350 68.0

300 Win Mag 150 grain Sierra SP @ 3264
Supreme 780 81.0

Clay 30-06 150 grain Hornady SST @ 3080
IMR4064 53.0

In no way should anyone try any of this loading data without checking for accuracy and proper reloading procedures set forth by the reloading industry standards and procedures period!

whitefish

Worry about accuracy, not velocity?

Make me think of a athlete doing the shot put!

You know you can have both; it’s called proper cartridge selection :)

I have nothing sage to add here. Reading the comments flying around I'm obviously out of my depth. I just couldn't pass on commenting regarding the utter brilliance of the image that accompanies this post.

For 30-30 IMR4895 and for 30-06 IMR4064 for 130 and 150 grain,IMR4350 for 165 and IMR4831 for 180 grain.

I wouldn't use IMR4198 for 30-30 or 06.

Cool article! ;-)

An off the wall comment here concerning safety.
About 1/2 mile from home there is an apartment building, 3 stories, 6 apartments. each of these are what we call shotgun units, from front to back you can see kitchen to front room.
Two geniuses found(?) a can of reloading granules, poured it out on the kitchen table and were touching cigarettes to granules to watch the "puff". Sometime during the entertainment one granule jumped onto the remaining pile. Both adventurers were taken to the hospital and treated for burns,not sever by the way. The apartment needed new windows and a paint job. Grandpa who was sleeping on the couch in the front room went out the window, couch and all, and landed in the field across the street.
I saw the windowless apartment and the couch in the field but otherwise can't be sure of the story told to me by an officer at the scene. But it was good for many laughs.

I began handloading in the late '60s with a Lee Loader (which was priced at $8.95 at the time), and one press, die set and accessory led to another. My interest in varminting led me to benchrest competition in 1969-71, and the reloading techniques I learned as a BR shooter contributed significantly to the quality of my rifle ammunition. Using my own ammunition has added exponentially to my shooting satisfaction, and I recommend handloading to other shooters who are considering getting involved in it.

Have been reloading now for a few years.
Just aquired an 1874 Sharps Creedmore (National Shooting Sports commemorative)from Cimmaron.
I have tried a few 405 gr. lead round nose factory loads to sight in and then reloaded some to "book" specs with loads from 29 to 32 grains of IMR4198. They kicked like a mule and accuracy was way of of the factory loads. I have recently found data that say to reload these at 21.5 to 28 grains of IMR4198.
This gun is not rated to go over 25000 cup.
Anyone have any experience with this rifle?
Any help would be appreciated.

Next to safety, the thing I look for in my handloads is consistency! This all starts with case preparation, and is where I spend most of my time in the reloading process. I begin by selecting and weight-sorting all my brass. All brass are not equal, which means that I try to keep all my brass from the same manufacturer and production lot grouped together. I have found that identical loads in Winchester brass shoots differently than the same loads in Remington and/or Federal brass, so keeping them separate and grouped together will yield more consistency from one shot to the next. Once this is done, I will clean, resize and trim the cases to the proper length. For brass that I’ll be loading for the first time, I will also ream out the primer pockets and deburr the flash holes. (Remember, this is all being done for consistency.) After I’m finished with all of the case preparation, I can then start seating new primers, weighing the powder charges and seating the bullets for each cartridge. (Again, I’m doing everything for consistency.) Determining the desired powder charge for each of the different bullets you might load and the cartridge-overall-length (the bullet seating depth) is the part you’ll learn from spending time at the rifle range. When testing your loads, I would recommend that you invest in and use a chronograph. This will help eliminate the guess work, and will save you a lot of time and money in the long run. The results of all this consistency is going to help you achieve the accuracy you’re ultimately looking for in your handloads, which is why most of us reload our own cartridges to begin with.
I have reloaded all of my ammo since 1972, when I purchased my Remington model 700, 30-06. I have never shot a factory load through this rifle, and I’m proud to say that it has never failed to fill a deer permit. So, to sum things up, just remember that consistency is how you achieve accuracy.

IMHO why would the manufacturers want to sell components when there is soooo much money to be made with inflated ammunition prices the way they are.
On the other hand I was just at a gun show this wekend and watched as 12 boxes of large pistol primers dissappeared in 10 minutes at $50.00 per box.
Check the auction web sites and see there is plenty of primers for $65 a box and some are paying $75 + for a box plus HazMat fees and shipping.
What's this country coming to?

GREAT INFO GUYS. I AM COMTEMPLATING GETTING INTO RELAODING AND APPRCIATE ALL THE TECH INFO.

I love hadnloding ammo, mine is usually slower than factory ammo but much more accurate. it is cheaper to hanload. my wife says that shooting is a "gateway hobby." that is, once you do it, it will lead to something else and cost a lot more money!!! like reloading, custom rifles, handloading, buying gadgets to improve your handlods, competative shooing...the list goes on...but its a lot of fun isnt' it!!!

Sorry thats "It comes with a load sheet" not sheeet

Absolutly nothing more satisfing than harvesting game with handloads you have carefully worked up, and that your rifle loves; especially after trying a half dozen factory loads with unsatisfactory results.

I also agree that cross-referencing load data during your workup is the way to go. I buy every reloading manual and publication I can get my hands on...not that big an investment compared to presses, dies, etc! And, while I find internet recipes interesting and great for idea starters, I will never us one with out comparing to published data in reliable factory manuals.

Great thread, thanks guys

by the way, i love the title of this article. Petzal is genius!!!

Two drawbacks to handloading: you have to be cold, stone sober, and you have to turn off the TV/Radio/Cell/Ipod/Blender. This eliminates many people from this activity, some permanently, but results in a lot of inexpensive used equipment at your local gun store!