At the deer camp I used to frequent near Crystal Springs, Mississippi, we called it "the autopsy": In an open-sided shed, the deer would be hoisted up by their hind legs on a gambrel and inspected by our camp butcher and amateur forensic expert, Bill Peavey. An irascible man, tough as a camp skillet, Peavey always took meticulous care in showing us precisely where and how our bullets had penetrated the deer and, more importantly, where we should have aimed those bullets to avoid damaging the meat.
Lesson completed, he'd begin butchering the deer by slicing out the entrails, along with the heart, liver, kidneys, and other organs, letting them all drop into a 25-gallon plastic "gutbucket" that he'd later haul off on his four-wheeler to a distant fenceline—a gift to the local coyotes.
Once, watching a gorgeous purple liver hit the bucket with a forlorn splat, I voiced a meek protest, but Peavey would hear none of it. I might as well have asked if I could steam an antler for breakfast. To him, the organs weren't meat: They were scraps. Away went the gutbucket, and with it the gorgeous liver.
The Swahili, however, have a saying: "Every meat is meat." The backstraps, roasts, steaks, and other assorted muscle cuts may be delicious—and for me and many others, a primary reason for hunting—but they're only a start. Inside that humble Mississippi gutbucket, amidst the inedibles, was a wild set of eating pleasures.
For some folks, this is hardly news—eating the heart remains a post-kill tradition in some deer camps, and there are those who still celebrate a successful hunt with a plate of venison liver and onions. But these hunters, mostly old-timers, are becoming scarce. As offal — an all-encompassing title for the edible organs of an animal, otherwise known as "variety meats" or, more nobly, viscera — disappeared from household supper tables in the last century, so too has it faded from the dinged-up dinner-and-poker tables of this nation's deer camps. Perhaps the American culture's squeamishness has spilled over into the hunting world, maybe laziness is to blame, or it could just be the benign neglect that comes from living in a prepackaged, vacuum-packed age. No matter: The hunter's loss is the coyote's gain.
But as Americans are slowly rediscovering the joys of eating offal—in recent years, cheeks, tripe, brains, and marrow have become staples at chic urban restaurants (at New York's Babbo, celeb chef Mario Batali offers an innards-only tasting menu)—so too should hunters, who have access to the freshest organs and, in the case of venison, to some of the rarest and most prized.
"It seems only polite to the animal you've killed," says Fergus Henderson, the legendary London chef widely credited with rescuing offal from the culinary gutbucket, and the author of The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating (Ecco Press), a cult-classic cookbook that just recently became available in the United States. "And it's all fantastic," he says, "the brains and tongue and liver and kidneys and all the other bits. There's a texture and unctuous flavor to them that nothing else can quite match. And it just makes so much sense to eat them, especially if you're a hunter. At my restaurant, people can't get enough of venison offal. They munch it up happily."
If there's delicious irony in the idea of London diners paying top prices for cuts that many of us wantonly leave for coyotes, the deliciousness, I'm afraid, belongs solely to those lucky scavengers. What Henderson calls nose-to-tail eating is, like hunting, about encountering the wilderness in all its visceral glory, and it's about the wild adventure lying at the big red heart of carnivorousness. Consider the recipes that follow, then, as a kind of field guide to the adventure that begins only after your deer is down.
Comments (21)
Someday I will eat at Fergus Henderson's restaurant in London. Crunchy pig tails--how can you beat that? Did you know that duck tongues are delicious parboiled, marinated in soy, ginger, sugar and sesame oil, then steamed? Save up your duck tongues in the freezer, then when you have a bunch, give 'em a try!!!
Strangest thing I've ever eaten is pig's snout. It was served on a bun and smothered with bbq sauce. It was very crunchy and tasty. I've heard that deer heart is delicious. One of these days I'll have to try it.
This isn't strange (like duck tongues--yech!), but I almost always eat the heart and liver of the deer I kill. Heart is really delicious and deserves special treatment at a special meal, but the best way to eat a liver is grilled over the coals of a fire, high on the mountain next to the buck you just killed. A little iron to stiffen your legs for the drag back to camp.
I sing a little ditty each season to the ones I hunt with. It is "Save your Heart for me"!
I eat them with stews, pickled, or just sauteed in butter with onions and garlic.
As for the liver, no thanks.
I understand how in the old country every part of the animal had to be used. But eating liver or kidneys does not appeal to me. These organs are pretty much filters and I do not consider them healthy. Either way what one eats is their own buiseness and not mine. I respect it.
I have heard eating the heart of a deer is very tasty. I would be more than willing to try one if only I could get one that was intact.
I have the utmost respect for the game I pursue. I thank the lord for every animal I harvest and don't consider leaving the gut pile for the coyotes a bad thing. I also don't bring the deer back to camp with the vitals still inside. I think dressing the deer in the field right after the kill is one of the most important steps to good tasting venison. I've had to come back to find deer the next day and the meat didnt taste as good as it could.
When I was a kid we ate lots of chicken feet. They were very delicious. My daughter in law is Chinese (from Singapore) she tells me the Chinese will eat just about anything thats protein including dogs and cats. At a Chinese resturant in London I saw intestines on the menu last Nov.
It is illegal now, due to new child labor laws, but from the time I was in junior high until I graduated high school I worked in a local butcher shop. There was a man who came and collected the chicken feet from us once a week and sold them to other people. Del, until you wrote that, I thought it was a mythe and he was using them for something else.
I have eaten liver, beef and chicken, and rabbit kidneys. I do not like either of these organs and throw them out with the guts. My dislike has nothing to do with their functions but their taste. With birds I do usually save the gizzards and like them fried and as a base for gravies.
Good on you guys, american hunters have a poor reputation for wastefulness, I'm delighted to hear you say you'd like to try the 'ofally good' parts!
SBW
PS Hank is americas Fergus check out his blog
http://www.honest-food.net
It's good to see that my upbringing wasn't so strange and uncommon as my wife says. Deer heart, and Liver were typically the first meals we made from a fresh kill. My father would get me to go down to the butchers place in deer and antelope season to collect the tongues, which he would cook in the crockpot or a dutch oven. These were all good eating. Even had some calf brains in with some scrambled eggs once and enjoyed it.
What I was taught by all of this is that you should appreciate the food in front of you for what it is, and not what you wish it to be.
one time we told a city boy that he was eating a cut of meat from a deer and it really was moose heart! He liked it till we told him what it was
I think I will leave it for the coyotes and have the warm feeling that I have contibuted to the circle of life.
I'm gonna try some deer heart this fall. I'll even have some liver, though I detest beef liver. Hey, if I don't like it, my dog's sure will!
i have eaten deer heart and liver the night of a kill all my life . in my eyes it is some of best eating there is on the animal . and don't even get me started on a small black bears liver , my 12 year old son love's it as well
Check out the recipes in the books Crossbow Hunting (Stackpole, 2006) and Backyard Deer Hunting: From deer to dinner for pennies per pound (AuthorHouse, 2009). These include items like Dear Heart soup (Pun intended. The author claims he wooed his wife with it.) as well as recipes for ground meat dishes and making sausage. Both books take the reader through the meat-preperation steps as well as cooking.
i wish i could have some deer hearts and livers right about now.
hmmm... girlfriend tells me venison liver is good. I think i may repent of my habit of leaving the entire gut pile in the woods, and try some next nov...
def going to try the heart this season
def going to try the heart this season
no way, no how, am I eating guts. Yuuuuuuuuuck!
THe moose we kill we save the heart and nose for the indian lady who lives on the lake she says no liver,that says it all for me.
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i wish i could have some deer hearts and livers right about now.
This isn't strange (like duck tongues--yech!), but I almost always eat the heart and liver of the deer I kill. Heart is really delicious and deserves special treatment at a special meal, but the best way to eat a liver is grilled over the coals of a fire, high on the mountain next to the buck you just killed. A little iron to stiffen your legs for the drag back to camp.
Good on you guys, american hunters have a poor reputation for wastefulness, I'm delighted to hear you say you'd like to try the 'ofally good' parts!
SBW
PS Hank is americas Fergus check out his blog
http://www.honest-food.net
It's good to see that my upbringing wasn't so strange and uncommon as my wife says. Deer heart, and Liver were typically the first meals we made from a fresh kill. My father would get me to go down to the butchers place in deer and antelope season to collect the tongues, which he would cook in the crockpot or a dutch oven. These were all good eating. Even had some calf brains in with some scrambled eggs once and enjoyed it.
What I was taught by all of this is that you should appreciate the food in front of you for what it is, and not what you wish it to be.
one time we told a city boy that he was eating a cut of meat from a deer and it really was moose heart! He liked it till we told him what it was
i have eaten deer heart and liver the night of a kill all my life . in my eyes it is some of best eating there is on the animal . and don't even get me started on a small black bears liver , my 12 year old son love's it as well
Check out the recipes in the books Crossbow Hunting (Stackpole, 2006) and Backyard Deer Hunting: From deer to dinner for pennies per pound (AuthorHouse, 2009). These include items like Dear Heart soup (Pun intended. The author claims he wooed his wife with it.) as well as recipes for ground meat dishes and making sausage. Both books take the reader through the meat-preperation steps as well as cooking.
hmmm... girlfriend tells me venison liver is good. I think i may repent of my habit of leaving the entire gut pile in the woods, and try some next nov...
def going to try the heart this season
def going to try the heart this season
Someday I will eat at Fergus Henderson's restaurant in London. Crunchy pig tails--how can you beat that? Did you know that duck tongues are delicious parboiled, marinated in soy, ginger, sugar and sesame oil, then steamed? Save up your duck tongues in the freezer, then when you have a bunch, give 'em a try!!!
Strangest thing I've ever eaten is pig's snout. It was served on a bun and smothered with bbq sauce. It was very crunchy and tasty. I've heard that deer heart is delicious. One of these days I'll have to try it.
I sing a little ditty each season to the ones I hunt with. It is "Save your Heart for me"!
I eat them with stews, pickled, or just sauteed in butter with onions and garlic.
As for the liver, no thanks.
I understand how in the old country every part of the animal had to be used. But eating liver or kidneys does not appeal to me. These organs are pretty much filters and I do not consider them healthy. Either way what one eats is their own buiseness and not mine. I respect it.
I have heard eating the heart of a deer is very tasty. I would be more than willing to try one if only I could get one that was intact.
I have the utmost respect for the game I pursue. I thank the lord for every animal I harvest and don't consider leaving the gut pile for the coyotes a bad thing. I also don't bring the deer back to camp with the vitals still inside. I think dressing the deer in the field right after the kill is one of the most important steps to good tasting venison. I've had to come back to find deer the next day and the meat didnt taste as good as it could.
When I was a kid we ate lots of chicken feet. They were very delicious. My daughter in law is Chinese (from Singapore) she tells me the Chinese will eat just about anything thats protein including dogs and cats. At a Chinese resturant in London I saw intestines on the menu last Nov.
It is illegal now, due to new child labor laws, but from the time I was in junior high until I graduated high school I worked in a local butcher shop. There was a man who came and collected the chicken feet from us once a week and sold them to other people. Del, until you wrote that, I thought it was a mythe and he was using them for something else.
I have eaten liver, beef and chicken, and rabbit kidneys. I do not like either of these organs and throw them out with the guts. My dislike has nothing to do with their functions but their taste. With birds I do usually save the gizzards and like them fried and as a base for gravies.
I think I will leave it for the coyotes and have the warm feeling that I have contibuted to the circle of life.
I'm gonna try some deer heart this fall. I'll even have some liver, though I detest beef liver. Hey, if I don't like it, my dog's sure will!
no way, no how, am I eating guts. Yuuuuuuuuuck!
THe moose we kill we save the heart and nose for the indian lady who lives on the lake she says no liver,that says it all for me.
Post a Comment