The Liver
Of all the viscera represented here, liver is the most familiar to us. Many people, myself included, were raised on weekday suppers of calves' liver and onions (I used to bathe mine in unholy gobs of ketchup), and in my experience, venison liver is the least-neglected organ meat among hunters. Why? For one thing, when it comes to butchering, the liver is big and obvious and easy to handle, and for another, it's famously easy to cook: All you need is a skillet and a pat of butter for a great deer camp dinner. "Venison liver is the sweetest, happiest liver you can eat," says Henderson, a devoted fan. In this recipe, I've amplified that sweetness with some caramelized onions and apricots and heightened the "happiness" with a hefty shot of Yukon Jack, a Canadian liqueur that's been a longtime companion of far-north hunters.

Seared Venison Liver With Bacon Chunks, Caramelized Onions, and Yukon Jack (serves four)

8 OUNCES SLAB BACON, CUT INTO ½-INCH SQUARES •3 MEDIUM RED ONIONS, PEELED AND THINLY SLICED
1 VENISON LIVER (ABOUT 1 ½ POUNDS), CUT INTO EIGHT GENEROUS SLICES
ALL-PURPOSE FLOUR FOR DREDGING
COARSE SALT AND FRESHLY GROUND PEPPER
3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER PLUS 1 TABLESPOON
2 CUPS YUKON JACK
3 TABLESPOONS CHOPPED PARSLEY

[1] Heat a large skillet over low heat. Add the bacon and slowly cook until the fat is rendered and the meat is starting to crisp, about 12 to 14 minutes. With a slotted spoon, remove it onto a layer of paper towels. Add the onions to the pan and cook, stirring occasionally, for 16 to 18 minutes, until they're soft and lightly browned. Remove them to a bowl, add salt and pepper, and set aside. (Reheat the bacon and onions in a warm oven or microwave just prior to serving.)

[2] In a shallow dish, season the flour with salt and pepper and dredge the liver slices, shaking off any excess. Pour off any remaining fat from the skillet and wipe out the pan with a paper towel. Heat 3 tablespoons of butter over medium-high heat until it begins to foam, and add four pieces of liver. Cook for about 3 minutes per side, or until slightly past medium-rare (cut into them to be sure), then remove them to a plate, covering it with foil to keep the slices warm. Repeat with the remaining four slices, adding more butter to the pan if needed.

[3] Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the Yukon Jack to the pan. Once it's warmed—15 seconds or so later—ignite it with a long match or wand-type butane lighter. (The flames will go high, so be careful.) Shake the pan lightly until the flames subside. Simmer the Yukon Jack until it reduces to a syruplike consistency, scraping up any browned bits lingering on the bottom of the pan. Remove it from the heat and whisk in the remaining tablespoon of butter.

[4] To serve, place two liver slices on each plate and top with generous heaps of the warmed onions and bacon. Spoon the Yukon Jack reduction over the liver and garnish it with parsley.

BUTCHERING NOTES
Avoid any venison liver that doesn't look purple-pink and evenly beautiful; if it's spotted or mottled, it could be diseased, so trash it or use it for catfish bait. Deer don't have gallbladders, so you don't need to get all surgical about removing the liver—just cut it out and trim away the obvious odds and ends. Freshness is key. Try to cook the liver the same day the deer was killed, or at least by the next day.