If any time of year begs for surf and turf, it’s early summer. The fish (or in this week’s case, crabs) are in season, and there’s usually still a bit of venison in the freezer from last season. Those steaks will slowly disappear as summer wanes on, so two of our readers took advantage of the larder in this week’s Food Fight with a couple wet and wild dinners.
A Wild Chef reader and frequent Food Fight Friday contributor sent in a few photos that, let’s just say it, looked less than appetizing. However, while they might not have been the best photos, both dishes sounded delicious and—more importantly—illustrated the point that there’s a lot more to eat on most fish then just the fillets.
This dish, a riff on an ancient Chinese method for cooking fish in which the flavor of steamed whole fish is turbocharged by a drizzling of smoking-hot, skin-crisping oil, is great at home, but even better on the beach after a muscular day of surfcasting. All you need, besides a campfire, is a wok with a lid, a heatproof plate, an oven mitt, and a few packable garnishes. Any whole fish will do, so long as it’ll fit inside the wok.
I first encountered fish jerky during a marlin tournament in Kona, Hawaii. It was steeped in the island flavors of ginger, soy, and pineapple. Here is my best approximation of that Hawaiian treat.
When Jeff McInnis—the chef at Yardbird Southern Table & Bar in Miami Beach—isn’t cooking, he’s likely fishing. In this recipe, the Florida native combines his passions, creating a summertime symphony on the plate. At Yardbird, McInnis uses Arctic char, but any fresh fish will shine here, even a lunker bass.
Roasting fish that’s encased inside a salt crust is a centuries-old method of ensuring moist, ultra-flavorful flesh. The dramatic presentation is just a happy bonus. Nearly any fish benefits from this treatment, and feel free to adjust the herbs as desired. For an easy side, toss some cut potatoes in olive oil with salt and pepper, spread them on a roasting pan, and put the pan in at the same time as the fish.
If you were to rank fish in terms of flavor, walleye and halibut would definitely break the top five, if not right into the top two spots. The thing about each mild, white-fleshed fish is they’re great vehicles for all sorts of flavor profiles and preparation techniques. Both get some special treatment this week, one from south of the border and the other from the epicenter of haute cuisine: France.
You, and all my friends, are going to be sick of hearing this, but did I mention that I recently spent a couple of weeks in Turkey? This trip is going to make up my main conversational fodder for the rest of the summer, with much of it focusing on what I ate — some of which was good and some of which was not the best decision. Of the former, the seafood stands out as highlights of the trip. I’ll say this, Turkish people know their fish, which isn’t a surprise considering that waterways like the Bosphorus Strait define their country. Here are a couple of dishes I encountered.
Draper and I have been talking about adding another regular on the blog — something to help wash down all of the great game and fish that’s served here. So, we present The Toast. Every now and then we’ll bring reviews, recipes and stories of our favorite drinks (and, no, not all will be booze) to enjoy with a meal or just to celebrate a good day outdoors.
I’ll kick The Toast off with some notes about a new whiskey I was lucky to enjoy over the last month: Crown Royal Black. I’m definitely more of a bourbon and rye guy, but I enjoy Canadian whiskey now and then. I’ve always liked classic Crown — but now I like Black more.