We left Kugluktuk late in the morning despite our 6 a.m. wakeup. The previous evening I marked the route we would be following in my GPS. We planned to make it to Lady Franklyn Point on Victoria Island, about 80 miles away. We wanted to go fast, but the ice formations and abrupt drifts in the Coronation Gulf were not easy to navigate, especially on our big crossing to the island. It would be the roughest ride we'd had so far. We were careful to make our crossing before venturing into the Dolphin and Union Straight, where we knew the ice conditions were unsafe.

We reached Lady Franklyn Point at 10:30 p.m. and I was surprised at what I saw: a couple of buildings were marked on my topographic map. I thought they might be old trappers’ cabins where Ted and I could stay, but when we got there we found what looked like something from a James Bond movie.

There were big satellite dishes and geodesic communication domes. There were oil tanks and a couple gravel runways. There was a warehouse full of stuff from, I assume, the cold war era: oxygen tanks, aviation fuel, oil, expired army-issued instant heat meals, chemicals, an oil furnace, and a generator.

A list in the furnace room showed the last time it had been checked: November, 1974. Lists of hazardous materials hung in the dismal office at the back of the building. I was half-expecting Bond himself to roll out from one of the isles brandishing his Walther PPK at any turn.

It seamed we had stumbled on some secret government outpost. It must have cost a fortune to fly all the materials to such a remote location. I think it was an old Distant Early Warning Line site. During the Cold War, the DEW Line, a system of radar stations, was build throughout the Canadian Arctic to detect incoming Soviet bombers and provide an early warning.

“Do you really want to sleep in this dark, cold warehouse,” I asked Ted.

“Not really,” he said. “But it would be better than setting up our tent and sleeping outside.”

Outside, the wind howled and snow blew through the partially open door. We were exhausted after our long day and tough ride, and the warehouse seemed like the warmer choice. It wasn’t.

Wind blew snow under the warehouse door we were up against, and my feet felt like they were frozen. I don’t think I slept for more than 20 minutes. Ted woke up shivering and put foot warmers in his socks. The misery factor was high that night—it was the worst one we’ve had so far. 

The next morning Ted melted snow to make our instant oats in the dark and gloomy warehouse. Light from the partially open door at the other end of the building was all we had to work with. Although it was sunny, it was also very windy and cold. Still, we were happy to get moving. We began heading up the western shore of Victoria Island toward Rymer Point. We knew we had fallen behind and would have to make a big push to reach Ulukhaktok on schedule.

Comments (16)

from steelhead08 wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Good question-the cost of support logistics to keep the "DEW" system up and running? Perhaps another 10 years will disclose a bottom line. Great to read you guys put it to some logical use! Awesome read nonetheless! Stay frosty guys! Looking forward to your next addition!

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from JGooding1 wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Being that cold just sounds awful. I can deal with the cold for hours on end but when there is no place to warm up after the day is over sounds terrible to me.

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from pittrehab wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

I would love this type of adventure, great pictures, keep going!

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from seadog wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

I'm getting c-c-c-cold just thinking about it.

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from chrisb9381 wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Did you not try to fire up the Oil Furnace? I assume something that neglected wouldn't work but if i were that cold i'd at least try

+2 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from db270 wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Would've hated to be stationed out there for a year...

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from MLH wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Metal and concrete just suck the heat out of everything.

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Emilie Baird De... wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Ooooh, when you first talked about the military base, I thought it might have been what my dad visited long ago as part of a military trip - but I think 1974 would have been a few years earlier than he went. You should ask him about it, though!

I can relate on the cold in a building versus a tent. When I was in Patagonia, I came across a wooden shed / cabin that I thought would provide better shelter (and less effort) than the tent. There was a stove and some wood which other campers had going and kept a small area of the cabin warm for a while, but once we were asleep, the fire died out and there was no more wood to restock it. It snowed about 2 or 3 feet that night and the wind howled, drifting the snow against the walls and into the cabin through the cracks between the boards. Coldest night of my life! I'm pretty sure after that experience I'll always think twice before thinking a built shelter is better than a tent!

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from wisc14 wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

awesome stuff. keep it coming!

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Harry Mac wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

Great tale. I too think I'd love to venture into that space. I'd go prepared for the temperature, now that you've enlightened me to the structure. I'd like to learn more about what went on, and why it was left abandoned and stocked. Good place for National Geographic to check out. Thirty seven years past, and what is inside, sure looks to be in good shape. Keep warm and keep up the good blog, if you have more to add that is.

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from redneckbeer wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

Theres a TV network show our government needs to watch, it's called "The Hoarders",maybe we would all be further ahead if our government recycled...

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from semp wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

I think I would've popped my tent inside the warehouse? Couldn't hurt ... right?

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from larry adjun wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

there is a insulated cabin down on the shoreline, right across the orange boat marker. It's used by the Kugluktuk Ranger Patrol for inspecting these unmanned radar stations. I told you about this cabin...I hope you don't forget Issac's cabin now at Rymer Point !!!

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Jim Baird wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

Hey Larry, sounds like we blew it! Issacs cabin? ya, we found it near Rymer, no problem. I still have another post to go up.

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from larry adjun wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

there are two good cabins yet @ Read Island, the oil stoves should still working in them...good luck, happy & warmer travels...

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from JG wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

Looks like the set from 'The Thing From Another World' old SciFi 1951 - absolutely fascinating trip Jim and Ted.

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

Post a Comment

 

All submitted comments are subject to the rules set forth in our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.

from chrisb9381 wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Did you not try to fire up the Oil Furnace? I assume something that neglected wouldn't work but if i were that cold i'd at least try

+2 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from JGooding1 wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Being that cold just sounds awful. I can deal with the cold for hours on end but when there is no place to warm up after the day is over sounds terrible to me.

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from pittrehab wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

I would love this type of adventure, great pictures, keep going!

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from seadog wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

I'm getting c-c-c-cold just thinking about it.

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from db270 wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Would've hated to be stationed out there for a year...

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from MLH wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Metal and concrete just suck the heat out of everything.

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from semp wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

I think I would've popped my tent inside the warehouse? Couldn't hurt ... right?

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from steelhead08 wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Good question-the cost of support logistics to keep the "DEW" system up and running? Perhaps another 10 years will disclose a bottom line. Great to read you guys put it to some logical use! Awesome read nonetheless! Stay frosty guys! Looking forward to your next addition!

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Emilie Baird De... wrote 2 years 9 weeks ago

Ooooh, when you first talked about the military base, I thought it might have been what my dad visited long ago as part of a military trip - but I think 1974 would have been a few years earlier than he went. You should ask him about it, though!

I can relate on the cold in a building versus a tent. When I was in Patagonia, I came across a wooden shed / cabin that I thought would provide better shelter (and less effort) than the tent. There was a stove and some wood which other campers had going and kept a small area of the cabin warm for a while, but once we were asleep, the fire died out and there was no more wood to restock it. It snowed about 2 or 3 feet that night and the wind howled, drifting the snow against the walls and into the cabin through the cracks between the boards. Coldest night of my life! I'm pretty sure after that experience I'll always think twice before thinking a built shelter is better than a tent!

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from wisc14 wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

awesome stuff. keep it coming!

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Harry Mac wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

Great tale. I too think I'd love to venture into that space. I'd go prepared for the temperature, now that you've enlightened me to the structure. I'd like to learn more about what went on, and why it was left abandoned and stocked. Good place for National Geographic to check out. Thirty seven years past, and what is inside, sure looks to be in good shape. Keep warm and keep up the good blog, if you have more to add that is.

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from redneckbeer wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

Theres a TV network show our government needs to watch, it's called "The Hoarders",maybe we would all be further ahead if our government recycled...

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from larry adjun wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

there is a insulated cabin down on the shoreline, right across the orange boat marker. It's used by the Kugluktuk Ranger Patrol for inspecting these unmanned radar stations. I told you about this cabin...I hope you don't forget Issac's cabin now at Rymer Point !!!

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Jim Baird wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

Hey Larry, sounds like we blew it! Issacs cabin? ya, we found it near Rymer, no problem. I still have another post to go up.

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from larry adjun wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

there are two good cabins yet @ Read Island, the oil stoves should still working in them...good luck, happy & warmer travels...

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from JG wrote 2 years 8 weeks ago

Looks like the set from 'The Thing From Another World' old SciFi 1951 - absolutely fascinating trip Jim and Ted.

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

Post a Comment

 

All submitted comments are subject to the rules set forth in our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.