


February 17, 2010
Pop Quiz: How to Catch the Spooky Sipper
By Kirk Deeter

Typically we only award prizes for our caption contests; the prize for getting the pop quiz right is the satisfaction of knowing that you are an angling genius. But this quiz is extra tricky, so I'm going to award the best answer one of the very first autographed copies of my forthcoming book, The Little Red Book of Fly Fishing, which is due out in several weeks.
You're fly fishing an ultra-clear spring creek. The current is slow. It's a slightly overcast day. You see three trout suspended in the water, spaced about 15 feet apart, in a trailing line, one ahead of the other. All of them are eating, but they're not eating dry flies. Because you never see their mouths break the surface (but you still see the bulges and waves in the water as the trout feed) you assume they are eating emergers. There is no real mayfly hatch to speak of, however. It's cold outside.
You cast at the first fish (the rear of the line)-- a very short single-nymph rig... no weight... the fly is about a foot beneath a foam indicator. You make one 30-foot cast... a perfect cast... but that fish spooks. Must be the indicator.
On to fish #2... You're going natural, and instead of an indicator, you switch to a dry-dropper rig. Now your "indicator" is a fly that looks like a real insect. One perfect cast... same result. Fish spooks and slinks away. Maybe trout understand that the grasshopper they see in March is an obvious fake...
Now you're down to your last fish... the good news is, this is the biggest trout of the three. The bad news is if you screw this one up, you're out of opportunities.
What do you do? What's your rig... and, as a tie-breaker, what is your fly? What is your trick for presenting this fly and getting bit?
Good luck!
Deeter
Comments (25)
I'm gonna take a guess: You cast the fly just behind the trout and let the current carry it to the trout. The rig you use is a dropper rig and the flys you use on the rig are a caddis larva and a hydropsyche fly. Hope I'm right!
Sit my butt in the grass, crack open a yuengling, and not harass the fish becasue I have no idea what to throw at him.
Id use the first technique, a simple two fly nymph rig with a nuetral colored YARN indicator (makes less of a splash) also id make sure to be using 6x. The fact that you say it is still a bit cold, id probably have a darker, less attractive, but still visible midge pattern. Id make it fairly large (like 18-20 for midges..thats large) so it attracts the fish to at least come take a look. Dropped off that I'd have an olive or grey RS2 or beatis emerger...as small as possible. Hopefully after refusing the point fly the fish would see this tiny little nothing emerger, which you could also swing at the end of your drift, and eat it!! Let me know how it works!!
I would use a midge pupa fished just below or in the surface film with a 12 foot ultra-light leader
no indicator, that's for sure. if you can see the fish, why use an indicator? longer leader (I assume, anyway, you didn't give a length), maybe 10-12 feet, a single nymph rig, across and down presentation, and a small (~18) stonefly imitation. no weight. looking to reach the fish just as the whole thing comes tight, right before the swing starts.
yrs-
Evan!
.22 semi-auto, aim about 2-inches low to make up for refraction
While my gut wants to say a small streamer on a long leader, cast away from the fish and stripped into position, I'm guessing the proposal of a streamer won't sit well with many. So I'll say a nymph on a long leader cast far enough upstream to not spook him, but close enough you can twitch the rod and keep it bouncing along until the slow current presents it to the fish.
I would pull out the camera and hope to catch him on some film, if I failed on the first two the third one is safe too.
I would probaly be tempted to go with a long, light leader and soft hackle. Get upstream from the fish staying low and quiet and cast a few feet up fromt he fish and let some extra drift down while keeping a fairly tight line, trying to keep just under the surface. With it being cold probaly go with a size 14 or 16, short hackle, with no thorax, let that hackle wave in the slight current. Go to a beadhead if I need to get a bit deeper
Use a parachute adams as the indicator, size 16-18, with 6x mono tippet. Easy to see, but rarely spooks fish and, who knows, the fish may take it, especially if there have been some bwo's recently (it is slightly overcast). Drop an emerger 20" back on 7x flourocarbon tippet wtih no weight (the flourocarbon will help sink it slightly and has less visibility). Position yourself about 45 degrees (so that you do not spook the fish w/ your fly line) and cast 3-4 ft above the fish so that your emerger has time to sink a bit. I've pulled this move off in Cheeseman a number of times on spooky fish in the few slow tailouts.
No need for an indicator. Fish could be spooking from the indicator, line, or unnatural action from the nymph. They sound educated. Dynamite is the best bet - actually, that sounds like a good name for a fly for this exact scenario. A long 5X flouro leader. Big fish so stick with a 5X tippet.
As for a fly, I'd use a small net to figure out what they were eating and match the hatch. If it is cold then the bugs might be nymphs rising and falling. If unknown I'd downsize to an unweighted waterlogged hare's ear the same color as the bottom. A Prince would be my second choice.
May only have one chance - best bet is to get the fly to the fish before the line. I'd get out of the water, stay out of sight and walk upstream about 30 yards or so. Survey the area and figure if it is better to cast from shore or water. If in the water proceed quietly and stay low and way off to the side. Get a comfortable distance from the fish.
No false casting toward the fish. Sidearm cast across and down with an open loop, mending early allowing time for the fly to drop down to the fish. If it doesn't take and doesn't spook let the line go off toward the bank before gently bringing it back in and trying again.
Streamer and nymph tandem.
try to trigger a reaction strike by tying on a long leader, casting upstream and letting it float downstream. the fly I'd use would be a small brown wooly bugger.
First thing I would do is backup. Let it rest a bit. Let them get back into rhythm. Open my eyes. Look for flies on rocks or snow patches.
If I can't make out what they are feeding on I would guess midge emergers. I would tie on an #18 sparsley tied black midge emerger on 5X max, followed by a size #22 midge pupae 18 inches or so back on 6X flouro (no weight). Grease the hackle only of the emrger so the body is hanging in the film and cast 5 or so feet upstream from the now popoising first fish. The cast should be such that the flies drift over the trout at the same rhythmic timing of its rises. Usually you do not need to be very far away, and long casts will usually put the fish down quicker than short accurate casts. If this doesn't work, I would change out the trailer. This usually works and don't be quick about picking up and casting again. Many times the fish hit on a slow gradual pickup - go figure.
No mayflies... and it's cold. Midges. I go with a Black Beauty.
No indicator, no dry fly... I go weightless, no indicator, and drop the nymph in the film on 6X. Then hope.
Alright lets see.
Its a clear limestone stream and the fish are suspended close to the surface. This calls for very light line 6x or 7x. Also any form of weight will surely spook our quarry.
I myself would move down the stream about 50 feet, wade out into the stream and take an insect sample with an ultra fine mesh net. Based on my findings i could select the proper fly to match the hatch. Probably a small (18-24), soft hackle caddis.
I would preform a down stream presentation in which i fed my soft hackle to the fish, meanwhile making sure no line ever passed over the fish's head.
If this failed i would wait for evening when the fish would let his guard down and try a spent caddis pattern.
March? Cold? I say your weapon of choice is an #18 BWO Emerger. 5x tippet. (yes it pays to be a regular). 30 feet is to long of a cast on a spring creek. Short accurate cast are your best bet. I'm not even gonna justify the strike indicator with a response. Geesh! Obviously these clear flat water fish are spooky so I say at least a 9 foot leader/tippet combo. Attack the fish at an angle so the line landing in the water does not spook the fish.
Cast high above the water. Let the line float down in the air and follow it with your rod tip.
In Ohio you don't find fish very easily so I say back out to about 15 feet behind the first fish, an a slight angle where your line will not land on top of the fish. Wait and observe until the rear fish rise again and start picking them off.
If none of this works go with what Outsider said except they do not sell Yuengling beer in Ohio. Can you believe that?
First off, extend your leader, then tie a size 12 black wooly bugger. Tie an additional three feet onto its hook with another black bugger, but make it smaller, size 14. Sneak upstream and cast as far beyond the fish as possible, and to the side by several feet. This way your cast won't spook the fish. During your retrieval start working your line closer to the fish. Once you get close slow down the retrieve and drag the fly's slowly past the fishes face, it can spark a natural bite from the fish, and if the first fly doesn't do it, it will create interest and the second fly will do the trick. I've done this many of times and it is a killer tactic as long as you can sneak upstream and cast down.
I'm sure one of the above posts are correct, but I'd throw a size 24 midge(take your pick) at them, I prefer a mercury midge in the case of it being a gin clear piece of water. Long leader, no indicator.
Shameless capitalistic promotion of the book! Lov'ya! Can't wait to see it selling hot!
My solution: Before I'd started this whole thing I would have checked the rocks to see what was in the water as food. Then, making my way up stream, I'd hunker down out of sight, Stripping of as much line needed, I'd simply cast my rig from up stream with an "S" cast, shaking out what I needed and let it drift down to the last trout. I'd have on the lightest floro tippet that would be functional. I'd stick to the dry-dropper. Nothing fancy, just a nice long drift with no casting splash. I've done it... It works.
No comment here on your casting, it doesn't seem to be the cast that spooked the first two fish. It was either the indicator, flies, or leader. The solution is almost always to start small and work your way up. Go to the other end of the spectrum. Lose the indicator, put on a 6x leader and tie 7x tippet to it and put a size 22 midge pattern on(CDC transitional midge or Gary's black midge pupa), 7x dropper with zebra midge or a miracle nymph behind it, these should be even smaller (24-26). Float it the way you would any other nymph rig. The key here is that while we hope this is the winning solution, if it is not, it is hopefully small enough that it does not spook the fish out of there. The fact that fish #2 spooked when you had a hopper as an indicator points to the size of your rig and line being the problem. Go smaller, don't put anything on the surface, and go midge.
i would use my floating line and tie on a prince nymph..... maneuver to about a 45 degree to the fish and cast 10 feet in front of him then slowly bring the line in and let the nymph rise and fall gently...... guaranteed strike
I know what one Alaska Miner used and it works fantastic. It’s chrome about a 1 ¼ inches long and a ¼ inch in diameter and taps a Grouse feather to it and lowers it gently into the water. As the trout swims up, he touches a 12 volt battery from his ATV and Breakfast is ready!
But I don’t think Blasting Caps is the answer you’re looking for and definitely illegal!
Oh, yeah, around here (Michigan), if there are emergers in clear water , overcast skies, and they aren't breaking through because of cold temps, then it is probably early season (April/May) and the bugs are probably Hendricksons.
The nymphs might rise toward the surface and swim back down, but some might get stuck in the surface film. So, perhaps emerger and wet fly patterns might be better (considering they are feeding just below the surface). Nymphs are safe to start, though. If you can get it to rise just in front of the fish you might get it attention.
Use a sinker that is fit to get stuck (not snagged) on a rock 2 feet above you're presentation, which should be you're smallest minnow pattern, perhaps a sculpin. Let the sculpin fly drift about 10 inches in front of his face. It will partially obstruct his view and could trigger an aggression strike. If not he's hungry anyway.
hmm cold and slightly overcast? i'd say (because i bait-fish and know nothing about flyfishing)i would get a ruger pump action 12 gauge aand pump that sucker full of lead just to make sure i wouldn't have to worry about HIM getting away...but that's just me if i missed the other two.
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Sit my butt in the grass, crack open a yuengling, and not harass the fish becasue I have no idea what to throw at him.
I'm gonna take a guess: You cast the fly just behind the trout and let the current carry it to the trout. The rig you use is a dropper rig and the flys you use on the rig are a caddis larva and a hydropsyche fly. Hope I'm right!
Id use the first technique, a simple two fly nymph rig with a nuetral colored YARN indicator (makes less of a splash) also id make sure to be using 6x. The fact that you say it is still a bit cold, id probably have a darker, less attractive, but still visible midge pattern. Id make it fairly large (like 18-20 for midges..thats large) so it attracts the fish to at least come take a look. Dropped off that I'd have an olive or grey RS2 or beatis emerger...as small as possible. Hopefully after refusing the point fly the fish would see this tiny little nothing emerger, which you could also swing at the end of your drift, and eat it!! Let me know how it works!!
I would use a midge pupa fished just below or in the surface film with a 12 foot ultra-light leader
no indicator, that's for sure. if you can see the fish, why use an indicator? longer leader (I assume, anyway, you didn't give a length), maybe 10-12 feet, a single nymph rig, across and down presentation, and a small (~18) stonefly imitation. no weight. looking to reach the fish just as the whole thing comes tight, right before the swing starts.
yrs-
Evan!
.22 semi-auto, aim about 2-inches low to make up for refraction
While my gut wants to say a small streamer on a long leader, cast away from the fish and stripped into position, I'm guessing the proposal of a streamer won't sit well with many. So I'll say a nymph on a long leader cast far enough upstream to not spook him, but close enough you can twitch the rod and keep it bouncing along until the slow current presents it to the fish.
I would pull out the camera and hope to catch him on some film, if I failed on the first two the third one is safe too.
I would probaly be tempted to go with a long, light leader and soft hackle. Get upstream from the fish staying low and quiet and cast a few feet up fromt he fish and let some extra drift down while keeping a fairly tight line, trying to keep just under the surface. With it being cold probaly go with a size 14 or 16, short hackle, with no thorax, let that hackle wave in the slight current. Go to a beadhead if I need to get a bit deeper
Use a parachute adams as the indicator, size 16-18, with 6x mono tippet. Easy to see, but rarely spooks fish and, who knows, the fish may take it, especially if there have been some bwo's recently (it is slightly overcast). Drop an emerger 20" back on 7x flourocarbon tippet wtih no weight (the flourocarbon will help sink it slightly and has less visibility). Position yourself about 45 degrees (so that you do not spook the fish w/ your fly line) and cast 3-4 ft above the fish so that your emerger has time to sink a bit. I've pulled this move off in Cheeseman a number of times on spooky fish in the few slow tailouts.
No need for an indicator. Fish could be spooking from the indicator, line, or unnatural action from the nymph. They sound educated. Dynamite is the best bet - actually, that sounds like a good name for a fly for this exact scenario. A long 5X flouro leader. Big fish so stick with a 5X tippet.
As for a fly, I'd use a small net to figure out what they were eating and match the hatch. If it is cold then the bugs might be nymphs rising and falling. If unknown I'd downsize to an unweighted waterlogged hare's ear the same color as the bottom. A Prince would be my second choice.
May only have one chance - best bet is to get the fly to the fish before the line. I'd get out of the water, stay out of sight and walk upstream about 30 yards or so. Survey the area and figure if it is better to cast from shore or water. If in the water proceed quietly and stay low and way off to the side. Get a comfortable distance from the fish.
No false casting toward the fish. Sidearm cast across and down with an open loop, mending early allowing time for the fly to drop down to the fish. If it doesn't take and doesn't spook let the line go off toward the bank before gently bringing it back in and trying again.
Streamer and nymph tandem.
try to trigger a reaction strike by tying on a long leader, casting upstream and letting it float downstream. the fly I'd use would be a small brown wooly bugger.
First thing I would do is backup. Let it rest a bit. Let them get back into rhythm. Open my eyes. Look for flies on rocks or snow patches.
If I can't make out what they are feeding on I would guess midge emergers. I would tie on an #18 sparsley tied black midge emerger on 5X max, followed by a size #22 midge pupae 18 inches or so back on 6X flouro (no weight). Grease the hackle only of the emrger so the body is hanging in the film and cast 5 or so feet upstream from the now popoising first fish. The cast should be such that the flies drift over the trout at the same rhythmic timing of its rises. Usually you do not need to be very far away, and long casts will usually put the fish down quicker than short accurate casts. If this doesn't work, I would change out the trailer. This usually works and don't be quick about picking up and casting again. Many times the fish hit on a slow gradual pickup - go figure.
No mayflies... and it's cold. Midges. I go with a Black Beauty.
No indicator, no dry fly... I go weightless, no indicator, and drop the nymph in the film on 6X. Then hope.
Alright lets see.
Its a clear limestone stream and the fish are suspended close to the surface. This calls for very light line 6x or 7x. Also any form of weight will surely spook our quarry.
I myself would move down the stream about 50 feet, wade out into the stream and take an insect sample with an ultra fine mesh net. Based on my findings i could select the proper fly to match the hatch. Probably a small (18-24), soft hackle caddis.
I would preform a down stream presentation in which i fed my soft hackle to the fish, meanwhile making sure no line ever passed over the fish's head.
If this failed i would wait for evening when the fish would let his guard down and try a spent caddis pattern.
Shameless capitalistic promotion of the book! Lov'ya! Can't wait to see it selling hot!
My solution: Before I'd started this whole thing I would have checked the rocks to see what was in the water as food. Then, making my way up stream, I'd hunker down out of sight, Stripping of as much line needed, I'd simply cast my rig from up stream with an "S" cast, shaking out what I needed and let it drift down to the last trout. I'd have on the lightest floro tippet that would be functional. I'd stick to the dry-dropper. Nothing fancy, just a nice long drift with no casting splash. I've done it... It works.
No comment here on your casting, it doesn't seem to be the cast that spooked the first two fish. It was either the indicator, flies, or leader. The solution is almost always to start small and work your way up. Go to the other end of the spectrum. Lose the indicator, put on a 6x leader and tie 7x tippet to it and put a size 22 midge pattern on(CDC transitional midge or Gary's black midge pupa), 7x dropper with zebra midge or a miracle nymph behind it, these should be even smaller (24-26). Float it the way you would any other nymph rig. The key here is that while we hope this is the winning solution, if it is not, it is hopefully small enough that it does not spook the fish out of there. The fact that fish #2 spooked when you had a hopper as an indicator points to the size of your rig and line being the problem. Go smaller, don't put anything on the surface, and go midge.
i would use my floating line and tie on a prince nymph..... maneuver to about a 45 degree to the fish and cast 10 feet in front of him then slowly bring the line in and let the nymph rise and fall gently...... guaranteed strike
hmm cold and slightly overcast? i'd say (because i bait-fish and know nothing about flyfishing)i would get a ruger pump action 12 gauge aand pump that sucker full of lead just to make sure i wouldn't have to worry about HIM getting away...but that's just me if i missed the other two.
March? Cold? I say your weapon of choice is an #18 BWO Emerger. 5x tippet. (yes it pays to be a regular). 30 feet is to long of a cast on a spring creek. Short accurate cast are your best bet. I'm not even gonna justify the strike indicator with a response. Geesh! Obviously these clear flat water fish are spooky so I say at least a 9 foot leader/tippet combo. Attack the fish at an angle so the line landing in the water does not spook the fish.
Cast high above the water. Let the line float down in the air and follow it with your rod tip.
In Ohio you don't find fish very easily so I say back out to about 15 feet behind the first fish, an a slight angle where your line will not land on top of the fish. Wait and observe until the rear fish rise again and start picking them off.
If none of this works go with what Outsider said except they do not sell Yuengling beer in Ohio. Can you believe that?
First off, extend your leader, then tie a size 12 black wooly bugger. Tie an additional three feet onto its hook with another black bugger, but make it smaller, size 14. Sneak upstream and cast as far beyond the fish as possible, and to the side by several feet. This way your cast won't spook the fish. During your retrieval start working your line closer to the fish. Once you get close slow down the retrieve and drag the fly's slowly past the fishes face, it can spark a natural bite from the fish, and if the first fly doesn't do it, it will create interest and the second fly will do the trick. I've done this many of times and it is a killer tactic as long as you can sneak upstream and cast down.
I'm sure one of the above posts are correct, but I'd throw a size 24 midge(take your pick) at them, I prefer a mercury midge in the case of it being a gin clear piece of water. Long leader, no indicator.
I know what one Alaska Miner used and it works fantastic. It’s chrome about a 1 ¼ inches long and a ¼ inch in diameter and taps a Grouse feather to it and lowers it gently into the water. As the trout swims up, he touches a 12 volt battery from his ATV and Breakfast is ready!
But I don’t think Blasting Caps is the answer you’re looking for and definitely illegal!
Oh, yeah, around here (Michigan), if there are emergers in clear water , overcast skies, and they aren't breaking through because of cold temps, then it is probably early season (April/May) and the bugs are probably Hendricksons.
The nymphs might rise toward the surface and swim back down, but some might get stuck in the surface film. So, perhaps emerger and wet fly patterns might be better (considering they are feeding just below the surface). Nymphs are safe to start, though. If you can get it to rise just in front of the fish you might get it attention.
Use a sinker that is fit to get stuck (not snagged) on a rock 2 feet above you're presentation, which should be you're smallest minnow pattern, perhaps a sculpin. Let the sculpin fly drift about 10 inches in front of his face. It will partially obstruct his view and could trigger an aggression strike. If not he's hungry anyway.
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