I may sacrifice a little accuracy but I seat my bullets to the overall length listed in my manuals. That way there is no doubt about then fitting in my magazines. I tumble my brass every time , full length size every time, and make sure there is no lube in the necks. That way anyone can pick up one of my loads and they will chamber in their rifle if they choose. I usually have to trim about every 2nd or 3rd time. I keep lots of new brass on hand and don't hestitate to use them. If a case shows any signs of wear it is tossed. The salvage yard near my home usually pays good prices for brass. Before deer season I run my reloaded rounds through my rifle just to make sure but they always do chamber.

Amen on the new, sturdy brass. Nothing like effing up an expensive elk hunt over saving 99 cents on a cartridge case! I have had a few cases not chamber on a trip to the range after hastily handloading the night before. That primed me for never ever taking even new factory rounds on a hunt that have not been cycled through the chamber of my rifle. Fail to do that prior to a hunt and shame on you! For pressure / temperature related issues, pick a temperature stable powder and load a bit below max charge. Takes the worry out of being close.

Douglas,

Ouch!

Nothing wrong with re-using brass. I try to keep mine in batches and when some in the batch start having loose primer pockets or other signs of fatigue, I recycle all of the batch that has been loaded about the same number of times. I never ever hunt with anything other than new brass.

I learned hand loading from my dad nearly 50 years ago. Some of the lessons were:
1. Set up your bench where you won't be disturbed
2. Keep your area clean
3. Do one process at a time
4. Load one cartridge type at a time
5. Always measure your brass
6. Use only one powder at a time
7. Use only one make and weight of bullet at a time
8. Seat your bullets at least 5/1000 of an inch deeper than max overall length. (Cartridges that cycle are what you need in the field.)
9. Keep accurate records of loads and brass usage.
10. Full length resize all cartridges that are going to the field.

I'm sure there are more things, but they are all related to attention to detail. Sarge01's post is also very spot on.

I hand load for five different rifles, .243, .270, 7x57, .300 Savage, .308 Win. and the venerable GOC 30-06.

All . . .

I've been reloading now for what seems like nearly a decade. I've made my share of mistakes along the way (most of the ones you've mentioned, in fact), but have never had a problem with a handload during a hunting trip or when I've had to eliminate coyotes (which attacked my old dog), or wild dogs, or to put down a suffering animal that someone abandoned.

Mr. Petzal, I greatly respect your knowledge of all things rifles and shooting, but I disagree with you about neck sizing.

The rounds I carry in any of my rifles from which an important shot may be taken are always necksized. Having said this, each case has previously been fired once or twice in the same rifle that is carrying the new load, and thus each case has previously been chamber-fireformed for that particular rifle. (This should eliminate the need for full length case sizing except under unusual circumstances.) Secondly, the handload in that rifle is a tested proven load for that particular rifle. It is almost certainly not the hottest load--although it will generally be a little warm--and certainly it won't be a slow one, but it will be very accurate. I cycle every handload through the rifle two or three times to ensure the rifle feeds and chambers (and ejects) its food with ease. If the rifle does not do so on a given round (though I don't mind a slight snug feel to the bolt when I close it, and actually prefer it), then that round is set aside for testing at the range. Rounds that feed poorly or worse are disassembled and reworked or discarded. This system has worked without flaw for me.

I suggest an additional tip to your article . . .

Some of the powders that many of us use in our medium bore rifles--such as the 7x57 Mauser, the .257 Roberts, etc.--are very temperature sensitive. For instance,
H-414, which is a wonderful powder for accurate loads in the lighter-to-medium bullet weights for the 7x57, pressure spikes dramatically (and dangerously, in my view) if the load that works beautifully on a spring 70-degree day is fired on a summer 105-degree day. Conversely, the H-414 load that worked fine on the 105-degree summer day will be piggish and slow--and will drop like a rock at distance--on the 20-degree winter day.

So my tip is this: when the shot really matters, use temperture insensitive powders--for instance, Hodgon makes an "Extreme" series of powders designed to produce essentially the same performance in a given load in all sane weather conditions. (Alternatively, keep your brass cool when the weather is hot, and keep your brass warm when the weather is cold, though under some hunting conditions this is impracticable.)

Good article, Mr. Petzal. Write more articles about handloading.

TWD

Try forgetting to lube a case and running it thru the full length sizing die. That can spoil your fun.
I am guilty of cheaping out and reusing brass probably a bit too long. This article has humbled me into getting some new cases.

In abscence of common sense following advice from sage old hunters is the ticket.
I don't know how much it matters, but I buy new brass make a load, fire it at the range and then use the once fired brass for my hunt loads. After the hunt that goes to the practice batch. I just "feel" more comfortable with a reload that has been fired from my rifle then reloaded for the hunt. Of course, I stopped running hot loads after I found out I was giving up more than I was gaining.

I gave up the idea of neck sizing decades ago when I loaded a LOT of 30-30 (100+ rounds) that were fired in a Winchester, then sold the Winchester and Bought a Marlin, that had a tighter chamber! Had to beat the lever down the last quarter inch or so to close the action!

Not good!

Happy, you old law dawg you! (chuckle)

Well back dar Happy Myles, welcome back!

Sarge01 DITTO's! "I may sacrifice a little accuracy but I seat my bullets to the overall length listed in my manuals." Actually, I've tried running the bullet out and doing the smoke trick, but all it got me was wasted time and ammunition.

If you truly developed the right loading technique, right loading components the right equipment, there is no dought you will have an successful outcome!

Sizing lubricants?

I hate lubing pads, the best way to destroy a sizing die!

One early Saturday Morning, had a Captain show up and his cases literally dripping with lubricant. I remember telling him he had two choices, either wipe the cases off prior to firing or I'm calling Security Police to have you removed from the range. YEP! they are out dar!

As for temperature variations vs velocity/pressure, I haven't noticed any change in accuracy and velocity going from/to Arctic to/from desert conditions, now altitude YES! Now that's using IMR4895, IMR4064, IMR4831 and WIN748. I did have problems with WIN760 with CCI200's, it was like shooting a flintlock, CLICK?....BOOM! Can you say hang fire!! Switched to Winchester and Federal Primers case solved!

Great Clay! I use WD40 when cleaning, but I'm not touching my ammo with it!
Tumble brass.
Inspect.
Resize, deprime, inspect.
Tumble.
Inspect.
Clean primer holes and pockets, inspect and wipe with dry cloth.
Reprime.
inspect.
Reload.
Inspect and box.

When CCI was still CCI (now a Federal "product"), they made a good primer, but you best have a good firing pin spring. Man were they tough! "Old Fart" syndrome won't let me buy Federals. I use Win primers. The "only" primer problem was operator error. One bad primer out of 1,000 and I'm on a deer that's got me pegged! I got him shot but it was an anxious few seconds.
Can't say enough about IMR powders! Never a problem.

Very good advice DEP. I've only shot one box of factory ammo in my life and that was last year just to try it. It wan't too exciting. I've been reloading for 50 years now and have never had a problem with my reloads. I've shot between a thousand and five thousand rounds annually so that is a lot of lead unleashed. I do a lot of target shooting and long range varmint shooting so most of my ammo uses exhaustive case prep, is neck sized and at the specific bullet seating depth that is most accurate for each rifle/load.

Each of my rifles also has a "best hunting load" or two that is range tested. The hunting loads use bullet seating depths that will easily fit the magazine and if the hunting involves anything serious, they are full length sized too. I have never had a neck sized round fail to chamber in its owner-rilfe but if I am hunting the dusty prairie or inclement weather for several days, I don't want a little dust or grit in the chamber to prevent me from loading a round.

For serious hunting, I use once fired brass, turn the necks, trim to length and test the primer seating to no more than .003 below the head. I slip each hunting round into the chamber to verify smooth loading before the hunt. I rarely find defects but every decade or two I find a round that has a jammed shoulder caused by a very tight neck during bullet seating. I pull the bullets and resize the cases before hunting with them.

Several of my most accurate target loads are seated on the lands; some even with a little pressure. Therefore, if I ever chamber a round and decide not to fire it, I pretty much expect to occassionally push the bullet out of the rifling as I extract the case. That is why my range bag has a 10 inch aluminum rod. I point the rifle up, slowly remove the cartridge from the chamber (so it doesn't spill powder) and if the bullet sticks, I drop the little rod down the barrel to dislodge the bullet. I don't lose any sleep over this... it is the cost of accuracy and part of the game.

I shoot brass until it drops (case abnormalities detected). Some of my brass has been shot dozens of times but I don't hunt serious game with these cases. They are for targets, varmints and testing. Neck sizing improves accuracy and stretches case life so significantly (especially on belted magnums) that I rarely full length size except for a few hunting bullets annually.

To Ted Ford: 140 grains is the best weight. I found that either Reloder 19 or IMR 4350 did the best, and I had very good luck with Federal 210M primers.

Thanks for the tips Dave. I'm in my first year of reloading and loving the results and rewards of doing so. With that said keep the advice coming!

Happy Myles,

You are correct, sir! The new brass rule is one that I stick with, even "never"! LOL

Best regards

Honker that is another reason I shoot bolt guns. Semi-auto and pump actions are too finicky for reloads in many cases. Same thing with shotguns, pumps and semi-autos don't like reloads.

I have had bullets pulled out of the shell while test chanbering rounds. I keep very detailed records, tumble all fired brass, measure my cases, prep primer pockets, chamfer necks, weigh every powder charge and do not exceed max loads. I also cut all of my good groups and glue them into my log book with location, wind direction, powder charge, primer type, along with bullet and case info. I agree that it is a noble enterprise and very rewarding when everything comes together.

Reloading is finally something that I am pleased to say I am "getting into." Now that the State allows centerfire rifle cartridges in my region for big game hunting, it makes sense for me to reload. Plus, the increased coyote population makes for some long season shooting fun.... If I can ever call them in close enough to see them. Anyway, I took two does last year with my Rem. 700 Chambered in 7-08, both dropped in their tracks. I also have a REM770 in .243. I am enjoying the centerfire rifle surgence in our state and am looking forward on how to really dial in a great load for both chamberings. I've reloaded shotgun shells for some time on MEC 9000g but never have rifle reloaded. But I'm sure getting into it. My wife quips why does every hunting and shooting related hobby cost so much to get started. I think I've plunked about $400 getting geared up. I still need to get primers, powder and bullets. Any suggestions on the two chamberings above? I want a lightweight bullet so It will double as a coyote gun, it likes Remington Express 120 grain PSP bullets. Trying to think of a load close to it. The .243 likes Federal Power Shock cartridges, I don't know the bullet but its 100 grains. What recipe comes close to that? The .243 groups those federals so a quarter can cover a five shot group at 100 yards out of my cheapo 770.

Better than new brass - once fired brass that has proven itself.
Throw away any cartridge that has corrosion showing at the primer. The corrosion may actually be a path right into the interior of the case for high-pressure gas to come back through the action to your face.

Don't think you can get away with neck size only dies with a No. 1 Ruger! That's gotta be the tightest chamber I've encountered!

I have been hand loading since about 1965. Yeah I know I am old. I reload 12-13 calibers, both hand gun and rifle plus 12 gauge. I used to shoot competition in pistol and rifle but now am to old and crippled to jump around in a match. Anyway in addition to many of the suggestions here, full length, dry neck etc. I also examine each case for any damage whether a small split on the neck or dent any where on the case etc. If any of these are located the case is discarded. In addition once tumbled I use cotton gloves in the process. The case never touches my skin again until the ammo is to be used. It is stored in boxes inside a military ammo can with an excellent seal. Once the box is opened the box and/or remaining rounds never go back into the ammo can. That box is used for practice if nothing else. I always store in an ammo can with a good seal. I realize some may think it is over kill but when exposed to "air" or handled by bare hands the round can be subjected to contamination resulting in corrosion/rust/misfires and injury. I have never experienced a misfire or failure to feed because, I believe, of these practices.
Good hunting and stay safe.

I'm a little non-standard in some of my handloading practices.
I own every Lee's "Factory Crimp Die" available for the cartridges I reload. I use a Dillon 550B progressive press, the Lee die fits great in the 4th station of the press and then the bullets stay put, they don't get stuck in, an they don't fall out.
The press takes a little time to set up, but when you get it right, every round is identical (sometimes identicaly bad, but identical nonetheless).
I don't own a balance beam scale. I "bit the bullet" early on and bought an electronic scale back when they were really expensive. But I probalby would have quit if I had to wait for the oscillations to die out every time.
With the Dillon I can make 300 rds of 45ACP in about an hour. I can easily load 40-60 rounds of centerfire rifle "practice ammo" in an hour too.
This was all good advice, great topic.
AKX

Unrelated comment. Hey, Dave, lets have a rant about all the junk that they put into scopes. I looked thru one a few days ago that had more wires, dots, and other stuff in it. I sure hope big game animals stand there long enough to let a hunter figure out how to use the darn thing

Deadeye,

Not to speak for DEP, but I think you'll find he is at least a partial proponent of ranging riflescopes, for those shots "Way out past Ft. Mudge."

O'ya, I'd would be out of character if I didn't do a double post :P

As for wiping off the case lubricant after sizing, I just chunk it all back into the tumbler overnight or two, then do all the case prepping. handling the cases more gives a greater chance to detect flaws in the cases. After all done reloading and ready to box, I take an old towel and give it just a whiff of WD40 to wipe off tumbler media dust and give a very minute coating of protection.

Mr. Petzal,

I was thinking of getting into reloading, and was wondering what is some good equipment to get started with?

Thank you -- this only reinforces why I'd rather support the fine American ammo manufacturers out there than try to do this myself.