



January 07, 2013
Putting Together an Effective and Portable Decoy Spread
By Phil Bourjaily
The video below shows a behind the scenes look at a Field & Stream photo shoot. The photographers ran a time-lapse camera through the whole day, and this video compresses a seven-hour session into a minute and a half. We had to go to Des Moines to find a photo studio big enough to drive a car into and F&S hired three photographers from Chicago to do the shoot. I am the model, the floor washer, and assistant decoy arranger in the video. We spent the entire morning, 8 a.m. to noon, moving decoys around. The actual photography didn’t take long at all.
The story we illustrated had to do with how I faced the challenge of putting together a decoy spread that would be effective but would also fit into my small garage and into the back of my Jeep Liberty.
I used a combination of lifesize shells, silhouettes and Lesser Canada goose fullbodies to make up my spread and I can fit around 100 decoys if I pack everything in just so – it’s like playing Tetris with plastic geese.
Update:
Since the we shot the photo and video, Avery has introduced new cackler and one-piece lesser Canada goose decoys (for those who aren’t aware, geese come in several “races” ranging from
mallard-sized cacklers to 15-pound giants). These decoys are really small* – the cacklers are the size of duck floaters, the lesser only a big larger larger. I can a bunch into my Jeep with lots of room to spare for other, larger decoys.
I had a chance to try them out the other day in the snow, where even tiny decoys show up very well. As you can see in the photo, the cackler decoys really are small compared to the real thing, but they fooled these two geese and three others for me and a friend.
*The decoys reminds me of a sort of shaggy dog humor piece that ran in the old Sports Afield back in the 80s (I miss them the way they were back then). It was about a goose hunter who used tiny decoys on the theory that geese had to fly extra close to see them. Perhaps that’s what happened the other day!
Comments (5)
I now hunt with 28 non-magnum honker shells. Four of them are very old G&H Henryettans, I believe these were the company's earliest shell design. I don't use these four collectibles very often because for some reason they seem to be magnets for dew or frost. I can get all the shells into one shoulder strapped cordura nylon decoy bag (these are great bags for the money - see: www.bagdepot.com) and place it at the back of the cargo area in my Jimmy with plenty of room for the three dogs, my gun, shells, and toolbox. If I had more decoys (which aren't necessary for my conditions up here), I'd be putting them in the cartop carrier. This old Jimmy is much more useful for loading or unloading the cartop carrier (or deer on top of the rig) because it has a drop down tailgate to stand on as opposed to pop-up rear door (older model Jeeps) or side opening doors like this Liberty. These theoretically make it easier to access the cargo area but I have found stuff in the front is going to arranged through the back passenger doors anyway. The drop down tailgate is also invaluable for sitting on with friends and/or dogs at the end of the day photo shoot.
The new G&H standard field shells I bought this year turned out to be a disappointment. When stacked they are scrunched nearly to the point of being silhouettes and they don't "deflate" at all when set up. The plastic center spikes are useless. Yes, they're quick to set up and may provide some motion (like the geese moving at 75 mph are going to be able not notice a tiny bit of bob and weave on the ground). But the stakes are flimsy and most were warped. I immediately constructed wooden spring-loaded T-stakes for them similar to the ones G&H put on their earliest models.
The geese are now gone from here by the time snow is on the ground (no one seems to be able to figure out why they keep leaving earlier every year) so visibility can sometimes be an issue. Grain stubble is never much of a problem but corn fields may be depending on how the dairy farmer harvests the crop. If they combine for the grain, the stuff is cut higher. If they "straight cut" for silage, the corn is usually cut off very low to the ground. Rather than go with bulky magnum shells or even more bulkier full-bodies, I have found that "raising the stakes" has been a cheaper, more compact, and fairly effective method of dealing with visibility in tall corn stubble. I cut grey plastic conduit pipe into sections about sixteen inches long with one end sharpened at an angle. I usually paint the pipe flat black but I'm not sure that is necessary. I'll pound the pipe sections into the field at the desired height and then drop the staked decoy into the pipe. If you want the decoy free-floating (moving in the wind), pull the stake out once you've achieved the desired height, knock the dirt out of it, reinsert it back in it's hole, and drop in the decoy.
I fully agree with Phil (for once) that visibility is not dependent on size, or I would add, on numbers either. Getting "normal" or even smaller size decoys above the stubble works very well. Also, I am a firm believer in keeping the formation compacted. These days I never set my decoys more than two feet apart and usually much less than that. A black mass in the field, even if it is a small black mass, is much more visible from a distance than a bunch of spots splattered here and there. Anyway, observing geese in the field I don't very often see them anything but fairly compacted.
Thanks for a very bold contrary point of view, Phil. Interesting that you would take this position. Seems all the showboat waterfowlers these days feel they have to be dragging a big fancy enclosed trailer out into the fields half full (or less) of giant full-bodied (gold plated!) goose decoys or they're just not going to look like they know what they're doing. Nice to see someone taking the position that this just isn't necessary.
P.S. I have often thought that some cackling decoys (we call them Richardson's geese up here) would be an excellent addition to a duck decoy spread on water. Geese decoys are always a magnet for ducks but the size of them are somewhat prohibitive given that a small boat is usually used to transport hunter, dog, and decoys. Goose decoys the size of mallard deeks would be manageable and just might produce some surprising results. What do you think of this idea, Phil? I don't hunt water up here any more so I couldn't test it.
Holy Moly! Did you get help from the Democrats in approving your photo budget?
Superior video! Excellent! Two questions: did you play a lot of Tetrus in college? Can you help me next time one of my kids move?
Ontario Honker -- I have been asking decoy makers to offer cackler or small Lesser floaters for years for exactly the same reason you suggest. Lugging goose floaters is a pain and I think the little duck-sized decoys would work well.
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I now hunt with 28 non-magnum honker shells. Four of them are very old G&H Henryettans, I believe these were the company's earliest shell design. I don't use these four collectibles very often because for some reason they seem to be magnets for dew or frost. I can get all the shells into one shoulder strapped cordura nylon decoy bag (these are great bags for the money - see: www.bagdepot.com) and place it at the back of the cargo area in my Jimmy with plenty of room for the three dogs, my gun, shells, and toolbox. If I had more decoys (which aren't necessary for my conditions up here), I'd be putting them in the cartop carrier. This old Jimmy is much more useful for loading or unloading the cartop carrier (or deer on top of the rig) because it has a drop down tailgate to stand on as opposed to pop-up rear door (older model Jeeps) or side opening doors like this Liberty. These theoretically make it easier to access the cargo area but I have found stuff in the front is going to arranged through the back passenger doors anyway. The drop down tailgate is also invaluable for sitting on with friends and/or dogs at the end of the day photo shoot.
The new G&H standard field shells I bought this year turned out to be a disappointment. When stacked they are scrunched nearly to the point of being silhouettes and they don't "deflate" at all when set up. The plastic center spikes are useless. Yes, they're quick to set up and may provide some motion (like the geese moving at 75 mph are going to be able not notice a tiny bit of bob and weave on the ground). But the stakes are flimsy and most were warped. I immediately constructed wooden spring-loaded T-stakes for them similar to the ones G&H put on their earliest models.
The geese are now gone from here by the time snow is on the ground (no one seems to be able to figure out why they keep leaving earlier every year) so visibility can sometimes be an issue. Grain stubble is never much of a problem but corn fields may be depending on how the dairy farmer harvests the crop. If they combine for the grain, the stuff is cut higher. If they "straight cut" for silage, the corn is usually cut off very low to the ground. Rather than go with bulky magnum shells or even more bulkier full-bodies, I have found that "raising the stakes" has been a cheaper, more compact, and fairly effective method of dealing with visibility in tall corn stubble. I cut grey plastic conduit pipe into sections about sixteen inches long with one end sharpened at an angle. I usually paint the pipe flat black but I'm not sure that is necessary. I'll pound the pipe sections into the field at the desired height and then drop the staked decoy into the pipe. If you want the decoy free-floating (moving in the wind), pull the stake out once you've achieved the desired height, knock the dirt out of it, reinsert it back in it's hole, and drop in the decoy.
I fully agree with Phil (for once) that visibility is not dependent on size, or I would add, on numbers either. Getting "normal" or even smaller size decoys above the stubble works very well. Also, I am a firm believer in keeping the formation compacted. These days I never set my decoys more than two feet apart and usually much less than that. A black mass in the field, even if it is a small black mass, is much more visible from a distance than a bunch of spots splattered here and there. Anyway, observing geese in the field I don't very often see them anything but fairly compacted.
Thanks for a very bold contrary point of view, Phil. Interesting that you would take this position. Seems all the showboat waterfowlers these days feel they have to be dragging a big fancy enclosed trailer out into the fields half full (or less) of giant full-bodied (gold plated!) goose decoys or they're just not going to look like they know what they're doing. Nice to see someone taking the position that this just isn't necessary.
P.S. I have often thought that some cackling decoys (we call them Richardson's geese up here) would be an excellent addition to a duck decoy spread on water. Geese decoys are always a magnet for ducks but the size of them are somewhat prohibitive given that a small boat is usually used to transport hunter, dog, and decoys. Goose decoys the size of mallard deeks would be manageable and just might produce some surprising results. What do you think of this idea, Phil? I don't hunt water up here any more so I couldn't test it.
Holy Moly! Did you get help from the Democrats in approving your photo budget?
Superior video! Excellent! Two questions: did you play a lot of Tetrus in college? Can you help me next time one of my kids move?
Ontario Honker -- I have been asking decoy makers to offer cackler or small Lesser floaters for years for exactly the same reason you suggest. Lugging goose floaters is a pain and I think the little duck-sized decoys would work well.
Post a Comment