


February 09, 2010
Chad Love: Eating the Whole Beast
By Chad Love
One evening earlier this year, as I was walking back to my truck in the waning days of my state's late bow season, I came across a pile of breasted-out quail carcasses in the parking area. I knew there was a group of quail hunters in the area, as I had walked by their truck on the way to my spot. The hunters had just left and the carcasses were still warm. I kneeled, picked up a quail, put it to my nose and drew in that sweet, slightly sagey fragrance that is unique to wild bobs. I then started counting. I finally stopped at 24. Someone with very good dogs had had a very good day, and I envied, but did not begrudge their success.
I then did what any good scavenger would do: I grabbed every one of those quail, stuffed them in my backpack and resumed walking to my truck. Waste not want not, and better me than a passing coon or coyote. A few of those quail wings will come in handy if I decide to get a setter pup this spring and I now have 48 delicious - if diminutive - quail drumsticks in my freezer. I'll figure out some dish in which to utilize them.
It's a perfect example of how differently people view what is useful and what is simply waste, and I thought of that incident this morning when I saw this story in Men's Journal about London chef Fergus Henderson. You probably have never heard of Henderson, but his classic 1989 book entitled The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating revolutionized how we view the odd bits and pieces of the animal that are often thrown out. And I've always believed there's a natural correlation between his philosophy of utilizing everything possible and hunting for your food. They're both honest, pragmatic attitudes on where out food comes from.
From the story:
As Fergus Henderson leads me into the kitchen of his world-famous London restaurant, St. John, he pauses to watch one of his cooks chop the arteries off crimson ox hearts big as cantaloupes, cut apart their blood-pumping chambers, and then slice up the deep red meat for char-grilling. Nearby, another apprentice eagerly trims rusty-red lamb kidneys, cutting white fibrous lobes from their middles. Henderson then opens the walk-in cooler, pulling back the massive door to reveal pretty little pink suckling pigs packed like dead babies into a white plastic tub, young and peaceful as if napping in th soft English sun. Chopped-up cow bones fill several bins, pig livers cure in a salt-sugar mix, and fresh pigskin, rosy and supple, sits in big folded sheets.
A deliveryman brings in crates of fist-size pigeons and decapitated, skinless rabbits looking like greyhound racing dogs slaughtered mid-run, quick little legs fully extended. Over near the industrial range top, another of Henderson’s underlings cuts around a blood clot in a deer’s liver, while still another chops chitterlings — or “pig’s poop pipes,” as Henderson calls them, adding, perhaps to settle my nerves, that “they’ve been brined quite far away from all that.”
It's an interesting story, and it got me to thinking about what we as hunters keep and what we throw away. For example, I know many quail hunters simply breast out their birds, but I've always used the whole thing, and when I saw that pile of breasted out quail I thought, "their loss, my gain."
What are some of the unconventional odd bits and pieces you save from your game? Maybe I'll learn something new...
Comments (28)
Just because we read Field & Stream you shouldn't necessarily assume we aren't familar with "The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating" - LOL
that's a great book. F&S did a big feature story called "The Whole Deer" a couple years back and I still refer to that issue.
yrs-
Evan!
"I came across a pile of breasted-out quail carcasses in the parking area." Congrats on a great quail hunt, way to go Chad for using everybit of those birds, I would have done the same with the wings. But how about a big thumbs down and all that for those hunters who left all those carcasses in the parking lot!? As Hunters theres alot we can do to improve our image and to show respect to the game animal, leaving dead animal carcasses laying around in parking lots in plain view is not one of them. Do that work in the field and bring out the good stuff and leave the junk. Scavengers have got to eat also!
Man all those legs make me hungry for some fried quail. The legs are the sweetest meat on those little birds. Never understood guys that breast out quail and throw the best part away. I even take time to pluck mine. Skinning takes away nearly all the fat on a bird. Those little gizzards are delicious too! Now gotta go get some birds outta the freezer.
I'm certainly not the champion of eating the whole beast, but I value the ideal & I do my part (maybe I can get an honorable mention or something). I've been known to break bones to get the marrow. Fillet fish?--yeah, sometimes but I leave the head on just as often. And the dog really loves all those parts that I can't get my family to eat.
When I finish processing deer, there are a lot of scraps left from trimming the fat. I put them in the freezer for one of my hunting buddies who cooks them and and adds them to his dogs' rations. Not much left over for the scavengers. (Some of the organs go into the mix, too.)
I have to admit, I typically breast out mine. I didn't a couple of times, and the leg meat didn't turn out too well. Maybe I need to give it another try now that Momma's expertise in the kitchen has increased! I do usually keep wings if I know someone has a pup and I keep some feathers for fly tying.
WOW, I'm not exactly sure what I would do if we killed that many quail in a day. I'd probably go to confession!! If that is typical for out by you Chad you can definitely figure on seeing me this fall!!
I breast out Mourning Doves, but I properly dispose of the carcasses. The few quail I've shot, I plucked and roasted.
Yes Del, I can taste those drumsticks as well! Fry them up quicky in a little butter and fresh garlic, yum!
Also brings to mind my Grand Pa. He would carefully remove the liver, heart and gizzard from every game bird he killed, Dove, Quail, Duck and Turkey. He especially loved the hearts, gizzards and livers from doves and quail for breakfast with grits and eggs...
Is there a possession limit on quail? Just wonderin'.
It would suck to pick up someone else's "waste" only to be fined for doing so......
Enjoy the birds!
I grew up in a family that worked in a slaughter house, and had the opportunity to try many cuts not usually eaten by Americans. However, it has only been in the last few years that I realized I could do the same with game.
My favorite has to be fresh liver, though tounge is a close second. I haven't tried (wild) kidney yet, but I will with the next big game animal I take. It also occured to me a while back that I was throwing away the intestine, and then buying the very same "natural casings" to stuff sausage, seemed like a real waste and a perfect example of the disconnect modern society can fall into regarding the food on our table.
Not an eater of "sweet breads"(inards) here, but I do have friends that do so I always have a "tote-sack" for the kidneys/hearts.
Love hearts, haven't tried recovering the tongue (I like beef tongue, though), and hate liver and kidney.
When it comes to birds, I'm known to do my share of breasting out. I sometimes feel a bit guilty, but when I cook a whole bird, I see the little pieces end up in the trash after dinner anyway.
However, quail are on exception, and I can't imagine breasting those tasty little devils... Not to judge the guys who did it, except for their thoughtless choice of disposal locations.
No innards for this old boy. I'll save mine for you guys! LOL
By no means is this supposed to be a jab, but have you seen how are neighbors to the south utilize a cow? Wow.
They utilize everything that is edible, and it tastes good too!
i like roadkill
"...pulling back the massive door to reveal pretty little pink suckling pigs packed like dead babies into a white plastic tub, young and peaceful as if napping in th soft English sun."
Am I the only one that was tremendously disturbed by that sentence? What kind of hallucinogen is this writer on?
Quail breasts or backstraps: What's the difference between breasting out quail and leaving their carcases in a parking lot, or cutting out the backstraps of a deer and tossing the rest into a ditch? I see both as irresponsible stewardship.
I've booked our table - magic boozer round the corner. Bring yer drinking legs
SBW
I always save the heart on any deer or elk I shoot. It has a strong, but very good flavor. Cut it up, throw it in a pan with some potatoes, and you'll be pleasantly surprised at just how good it really is.
And, since the fat on elk is so tasty, but not overly abundant, I have discovered that a good deal of fat can be taken off the head, mostly in the cheeks. So now I will start saving the heads so that I have more fat for my hamburger.
I'm all for eating "the whole thing". I'll skin the entire bullfrog not just the legs and I pop the meat out of the pincers of a crawdad.
Now one thing I can't eat whole is squirrel. The body yes, squirrel brains no.
I started only breasting the quail, but F&S ran a recipe a year or two back that featured the use of the legs as well and as I really enjoy cooking thought "Hey that looks good" and "I figure I can do that." So now I use the breast and legs. Lotta work for a little wing though, and I dinna have a dog. Yet.
Try as I might, I have trouble making Snow or Canada legs taste like anything but liver or bike tires; not so the breasts--I've got them down to a science, so I'll have to confess that I breast out geese. Don't hit me.
the way i see it is i will not waste an animal but u prolly wont see me picking up carcasses b/c the best parts gone and theres not much on a quail.
Like to use the deer´s innards, lungs, heart, kidneys, but liver is just too hard and strong to my taste, nothing like a cow´s liver. Or maybe I am not cookint it right, dunno. Brains are specially yummy.
i don't care for the innards, and have never had quail or any other wild bird, but i always figured if i got one i would pluck it, and roast it, that way you use all the meat, i know a guy who breasts out turkeys,because he says the rest of it doesn't taste good, is this true?
If I would have found that pile of breasted out quail, I probably would have tracked those guys down. I have grown up living off the game that is accessible to me, and i believe that if you kill it, you should use it. Especially because of our low quail #'s here in Kansas. The game is available for us to use, not to take advantage of.
A nice Upland bird recipe I enjoy: place quail of pheasant in a crock-pot, add 2 cans of cream of mushroom soup, couple cups of wild rice, and 2 cans of beer. let cook all day. its great
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"I came across a pile of breasted-out quail carcasses in the parking area." Congrats on a great quail hunt, way to go Chad for using everybit of those birds, I would have done the same with the wings. But how about a big thumbs down and all that for those hunters who left all those carcasses in the parking lot!? As Hunters theres alot we can do to improve our image and to show respect to the game animal, leaving dead animal carcasses laying around in parking lots in plain view is not one of them. Do that work in the field and bring out the good stuff and leave the junk. Scavengers have got to eat also!
Man all those legs make me hungry for some fried quail. The legs are the sweetest meat on those little birds. Never understood guys that breast out quail and throw the best part away. I even take time to pluck mine. Skinning takes away nearly all the fat on a bird. Those little gizzards are delicious too! Now gotta go get some birds outta the freezer.
Yes Del, I can taste those drumsticks as well! Fry them up quicky in a little butter and fresh garlic, yum!
Also brings to mind my Grand Pa. He would carefully remove the liver, heart and gizzard from every game bird he killed, Dove, Quail, Duck and Turkey. He especially loved the hearts, gizzards and livers from doves and quail for breakfast with grits and eggs...
Is there a possession limit on quail? Just wonderin'.
It would suck to pick up someone else's "waste" only to be fined for doing so......
Enjoy the birds!
Quail breasts or backstraps: What's the difference between breasting out quail and leaving their carcases in a parking lot, or cutting out the backstraps of a deer and tossing the rest into a ditch? I see both as irresponsible stewardship.
that's a great book. F&S did a big feature story called "The Whole Deer" a couple years back and I still refer to that issue.
yrs-
Evan!
When I finish processing deer, there are a lot of scraps left from trimming the fat. I put them in the freezer for one of my hunting buddies who cooks them and and adds them to his dogs' rations. Not much left over for the scavengers. (Some of the organs go into the mix, too.)
Love hearts, haven't tried recovering the tongue (I like beef tongue, though), and hate liver and kidney.
When it comes to birds, I'm known to do my share of breasting out. I sometimes feel a bit guilty, but when I cook a whole bird, I see the little pieces end up in the trash after dinner anyway.
However, quail are on exception, and I can't imagine breasting those tasty little devils... Not to judge the guys who did it, except for their thoughtless choice of disposal locations.
No innards for this old boy. I'll save mine for you guys! LOL
"...pulling back the massive door to reveal pretty little pink suckling pigs packed like dead babies into a white plastic tub, young and peaceful as if napping in th soft English sun."
Am I the only one that was tremendously disturbed by that sentence? What kind of hallucinogen is this writer on?
I've booked our table - magic boozer round the corner. Bring yer drinking legs
SBW
I started only breasting the quail, but F&S ran a recipe a year or two back that featured the use of the legs as well and as I really enjoy cooking thought "Hey that looks good" and "I figure I can do that." So now I use the breast and legs. Lotta work for a little wing though, and I dinna have a dog. Yet.
Just because we read Field & Stream you shouldn't necessarily assume we aren't familar with "The Whole Beast: Nose to Tail Eating" - LOL
I'm certainly not the champion of eating the whole beast, but I value the ideal & I do my part (maybe I can get an honorable mention or something). I've been known to break bones to get the marrow. Fillet fish?--yeah, sometimes but I leave the head on just as often. And the dog really loves all those parts that I can't get my family to eat.
I have to admit, I typically breast out mine. I didn't a couple of times, and the leg meat didn't turn out too well. Maybe I need to give it another try now that Momma's expertise in the kitchen has increased! I do usually keep wings if I know someone has a pup and I keep some feathers for fly tying.
WOW, I'm not exactly sure what I would do if we killed that many quail in a day. I'd probably go to confession!! If that is typical for out by you Chad you can definitely figure on seeing me this fall!!
I breast out Mourning Doves, but I properly dispose of the carcasses. The few quail I've shot, I plucked and roasted.
I grew up in a family that worked in a slaughter house, and had the opportunity to try many cuts not usually eaten by Americans. However, it has only been in the last few years that I realized I could do the same with game.
My favorite has to be fresh liver, though tounge is a close second. I haven't tried (wild) kidney yet, but I will with the next big game animal I take. It also occured to me a while back that I was throwing away the intestine, and then buying the very same "natural casings" to stuff sausage, seemed like a real waste and a perfect example of the disconnect modern society can fall into regarding the food on our table.
Not an eater of "sweet breads"(inards) here, but I do have friends that do so I always have a "tote-sack" for the kidneys/hearts.
By no means is this supposed to be a jab, but have you seen how are neighbors to the south utilize a cow? Wow.
They utilize everything that is edible, and it tastes good too!
i like roadkill
I always save the heart on any deer or elk I shoot. It has a strong, but very good flavor. Cut it up, throw it in a pan with some potatoes, and you'll be pleasantly surprised at just how good it really is.
And, since the fat on elk is so tasty, but not overly abundant, I have discovered that a good deal of fat can be taken off the head, mostly in the cheeks. So now I will start saving the heads so that I have more fat for my hamburger.
I'm all for eating "the whole thing". I'll skin the entire bullfrog not just the legs and I pop the meat out of the pincers of a crawdad.
Now one thing I can't eat whole is squirrel. The body yes, squirrel brains no.
Try as I might, I have trouble making Snow or Canada legs taste like anything but liver or bike tires; not so the breasts--I've got them down to a science, so I'll have to confess that I breast out geese. Don't hit me.
the way i see it is i will not waste an animal but u prolly wont see me picking up carcasses b/c the best parts gone and theres not much on a quail.
Like to use the deer´s innards, lungs, heart, kidneys, but liver is just too hard and strong to my taste, nothing like a cow´s liver. Or maybe I am not cookint it right, dunno. Brains are specially yummy.
i don't care for the innards, and have never had quail or any other wild bird, but i always figured if i got one i would pluck it, and roast it, that way you use all the meat, i know a guy who breasts out turkeys,because he says the rest of it doesn't taste good, is this true?
If I would have found that pile of breasted out quail, I probably would have tracked those guys down. I have grown up living off the game that is accessible to me, and i believe that if you kill it, you should use it. Especially because of our low quail #'s here in Kansas. The game is available for us to use, not to take advantage of.
A nice Upland bird recipe I enjoy: place quail of pheasant in a crock-pot, add 2 cans of cream of mushroom soup, couple cups of wild rice, and 2 cans of beer. let cook all day. its great
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