January 12, 2011
Hash For Hipsters
By David Draper
In what surely must be a sign of the apocalypse, humble hash is now being served at fine restaurants. According to a recent article in The New York Times:
As meat has become larded with high status, and as diner food is reinvented with culinary credibility, hash is coming up in the world. Modern meat-and-potatoes lovers, meet hash, your new best friend. Friendly to home cooks and on the upswing with chefs, who make it from corned beef, pastrami, Texas barbecue, leftover prime rib, lamb necks or duck tongues, hash is thrillingly easy to cook and deeply satisfying to eat.
While one of the great things about hash is there really is no hard-and-fast ingredient list, I still get a bit of a tic when I read about black truffle hash or hash with quinoa or smoked trout. In truth, hash is about using whatever’s leftover in the fridge to make a hardy breakfast fit to fortify the working man. If you happen to have black truffles in your fridge, why not, I guess.
My basic hash recipe keeps things a bit more simple. I roughly chop whatever leftover steak, roast, or other cooked meat that happens to be nearing its life expectancy in my fridge, along with a boiled or baked potato and onion. All of these are mixed together and moistened with a touch of stock and dash of Worcestershire. Melt a pat of butter in a non-stick skillet and add the hash. Don’t touch it for 10 minutes or so. You want a nice crust to form. Then flip it and repeat on the second side. At the last minute, you can crack an egg or two over the whole mess, or get fancy and fry an egg separately and serve it on top.
Dig in with the smug satisfaction of knowing, not unlike like your late 80s obsession with obscure bands from Seattle, you were eating hash before eating hash was cool.