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Essential Dog Gear to Pack for Your Hunting Trips

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September 14, 2012

Essential Dog Gear to Pack for Your Hunting Trips

By Chad Love

I'm in the process of packing for the first extended bird-hunting trip of the season. I thought it would be interesting to list a few of the less obvious things I always take with me on these trips, and then solicit your essential items - since I always enjoy learning from you.

I carry a fairly extensive first-aid kit, but one thing I always keep in the bag are several syringes of an injectable antihistamine. Even though my dogs have the rattlesnake vaccine, an antihistamine can help stabilize a snake-bitten dog until you can reach a vet. Many guys carry Benadryl tablets for that purpose, but in the event of a snake bite I don't want to mess with trying to get a dog to swallow a pill. Plus, an injection will go to work much more quickly. Talk to your vet about it.

And speaking of vets, I always make it a point to have the phone numbers of local vets handy when I'm hunting away from home. In an emergency that can save you precious time.

Here's one I learned from a well-traveled hunting buddy of mine: If you're hunting far from home, make up a bunch of lost dog fliers before you leave. No one wants to think about losing a dog, but it happens. If you can quickly blanket an area with fliers with a picture of your dog and contact info, chances are someone will eventually find your dog. And of course, it also goes without saying that your dogs should always, always have tagged collars on. That's a no-brainer.

Bark collars. I learned this one the hard way. Even if your dog isn't normally a barker, that can change quickly on a hunting trip when he's taken out of his normal routine.

A pro-biotic. I've written about this one before. Color me a believer. I start feeding a few days before a trip, during, and a few days after.  It helps tremendously with loose stools. And I'm for anything that helps with loose stools...

An extra collar (with tags), because sometimes they break.

An extra whistle, because sometimes you lose them.

Canned dog food, preferably the liquidy, gravy-type variety. My female setter is a hard keeper to begin with, and she becomes a notoriously poor eater on hunting trips. Mixing in a little wet food helps a lot with convincing her to finish eating.

Extra batteries for electronics that take them, and chargers for those that don't. Yes, that should be obvious, but do you know how many times I've forgotten batteries and/or chargers. Which segues nicely into the next item, which is...

Instruction manuals for all your electronics, collars, GPS devices, etc. I know, I know, we should all be familiar enough with our dog electronics that we don't need to consult the manual, for anything. But are we? I'm certainly not. I have a well-deserved reputation among my friends for technical incompetence, and last year on a hunt in Kansas one of my collars kept losing synch with the transmitter. It was a fairly new-to-me collar, and if I hadn't had the manual to remind me of the synch procedure I might still be out there scratching my head.

So what are a few of those less obvious "damn, wish I'd remembered that!" items that you pack on your trips?

Comments (16)

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from Ontario Honker ... wrote 39 weeks 1 day ago

Hmmm. Yes I pack Benedryl but no first aid kit. Not even for myself but I think I'll fix that this year. My dogs have always been so totally in control that I have not had trouble giving them pills although I usually stuff them in something like cheeze or weenie. I'm not sure I'd want to carry a syringe around when I'm hunting.

Snakebite vaccine is just hype. I'm not buying it.

I prefer the riveted name tags for dog collars so there's no noise or nothing to get caught on stuff.

I don't carry an extra collar. My dogs are never out of sight (even the Britt pup). Even if they lost their collars, it really wouldn't make any difference. I always take the compression collars along so I can walk them in town when staying with friends in Montana. Add that to your list, Chad.

No barking dogs (never!) and absolutely no electronics so no need for extra batteries or instruction manuals. I have never used a whistle. My dogs respond to verbal commands. A few centuries ago I would have been burned at the stake as consorting with the devil if anyone had heard me talking to my pooches. Perhaps that's where the idea of whistle training hunting dogs was first developed?

Canned dog food? No friggin way! If a dog isn't used to that greasy crap you'll definitely need that pro-biotic stuff. I've never owned a hunting dog (all labs) that didn't travel well. They get into the alkali water in Montana but it doesn't seem to mess them up too much. They usually get adjusted fairly quickly. Add a collapsable water jug to the list.

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from Ontario Honker ... wrote 39 weeks 23 hours ago

Chad, for that pup you might want to take along a collapsable kennel for motels and staying with friends etc. I took one with me to Montana last year. Collapsed it and stuck it up between the two clothes hanging poles in the cargo area. Secure well with bungee cords. They are sure a lot handier than lugging one of those airline type kennels back and forth from vehicle to house. And the kennel can be collapsed and stored in the residence much easier too.

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from Sayfu wrote 39 weeks 16 hours ago

Got to have he first aid kit. Both my dogs got porky struck several years ago. They also get seeds in their eyes that need to be removed after hunting. Happy to read about your snake shot your dog got, and the syringe you take with you. Posters refuted the need for that. I also take along my vest full of small bone treats when my dog retrieves/flushes a bird.

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from Ontario Honker ... wrote 39 weeks 10 hours ago

Sayfu, for your information porcupine quills contain an antibiotic (although hedgehog quills do not). Possibly evolved as a reproductive safety item. You really only need to pull them out. A leatherman and well-disciplined dog are all that's needed. Severl years ago one of my labs got a mouthful while we were fishing the Little Blackfoot in Montana. I was trail crew boss and we were about fifty miles in the backcountry and I had no pliers. I sat Ethyl in the middle of thr trail and started pulling them out of her nose and gums with my teeth. One of the crew came looking for me and about passed out when he came around the corner and saw me all bloody faced apparently chewing on my dog's mouth while she just sat there. "I have no idea why that dog just doesn't bite your face off." I grumbled, "She wouldn't DARE!" He meekly agreed and quickly disappeared. THAT was a well-controlled dog.

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from Ontario Honker ... wrote 39 weeks 10 hours ago

What's in a first aid kit that gets seeds out the dog's eyes?

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 38 weeks 6 days ago

For those of you thinking of crossing the international border make sure you have your dog's up-to-date rabies vaccination papers. Also, if it's a valuable dog, especially a young one, you may need proof of ownership. I don't have to tell you to do your homework re moving guns or even parts of guns across the border! Ugh!

As to dog food, I buy small bags as I go along. It's easier to stash these where the dogs can't get at them. Fairly good varieties are usually available even at the country mom & pop grocery stores. We have already debated the pros and cons of fussy fancy souped up dog food brands. You can always find reasonable alternatives even shopping in out of the way places. Just pay attention to the nutritional contents published on the bag ... somewhere. Seems the manufacturers try to make this info as discreet as possible. I can usually hunt my dogs on cheaper dogfood till their feet have worn out and they still seem to have plenty of gas left.

For those hunting the heavy cactus country don't forget to pick up some protectivve footwear for your dogs. I have never used these (except for road salt situations here during the winter) because I tend to stay on ground that's not quite dry enough for the prickly pears. However, that usually means dealing with russian olive which is mostly the pits for me and less so for the dogs.

And for those guys who hunt harvested corn fields, pick up some protective chest wear for your dogs! That stuff can literally be murder for a dog running through it to retrieve a downed bird.

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from TexAg wrote 38 weeks 6 days ago

OH, to get seeds out of a dogs eye you can use several different methods: q-tips, eye solution, or a syringe of water (without the needle).

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 38 weeks 6 days ago

Opal gets the red eye quite a bit but I presumed it was dust related and just use saline drops from over the counter. I don't recall seeing any seeds in their eyes but labs don't have notoriously droopy lower eyelids like some breeds (e.g. cocker spaniels).

Now that you mention Q-tips, having some first aid stuff along for their ears is always a good idea, particularly for retrievers who are in the water a lot. And, as Chad noted in a recent thread, weed seeds can be very problematic for dogs, some breeds worse than others.

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from dogwood wrote 38 weeks 5 days ago

Novalsan Solution
Saline (and syringes to flush wounds or eyes)
Alcohol wipes
Gauze Squares
Vet-wrap
Telfa Pads
Bandage Gauze
Elastikon Tape (Vet Wrap)
Hemostats
Bandage Scissors
Quik Stop - clotting powder
Thermometer
Prednisone 20mg (5)
Metronidazole 250mg (10) (Flagyl) antibotic for skin infections
Benadryl 25mg (10) (diphenhydramine)
Rimadyl 25mg (10) NSAID pain reliever
Famotidine 20mg (5) Pepsid

I'd add Tramadol for pain.

List appeared on doublegunshop.com. Link won't post because Chadbot thinks it contains obscene word. Gil

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from Ontario Honker ... wrote 38 weeks 4 days ago

Pearl is on prednisone as part of her cancer treatment plan. It's a steroid for shrinking tumors. Can't be bought over the counter up here.

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from chadlove wrote 38 weeks 4 days ago

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. OH, I don't actually carry the syringe in my vest. I keep them in my first-aid kit at the truck, and yep, I meant the riveted type tag on the collar, not the jingly type.

As for the canned food, no, I don't feed a lot of it, I just use enough to get the dry kibble smelling good enough for her to eat, and if I have a dog that eats well on a trip, I don't add the wet food. It's basically just a trick to get picky dogs to eat in the field. My little female setter, for whatever reason, just doesn't seem to be interested in food while traveling.

For eye obstructions I usually use eye wash or water in a syringe to irrigate.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 38 weeks 4 days ago

When I was a kid we had a lab that could be a bit finicky about dry dog food and we'd suppliment with some canned stuff. Forgot about that. However, dry dogfood has come a long ways since those days. My Britt for whatever reason sometimes requires encouragement to get going eating her dry dogfood. She always insists on saying thank you quite emphatically (weird, eh) but sometimes that's not enough and I have to hand feed her a kibble or two to get her going (so the other two pigs don't steal her rations). I would only start using canned dogfood as a last resort encouragement because it works too well and dogs develop a bad habit of demanding it or they won't eat. Among other things, the stuff is awful hard on their teeth! Also, I can't imagine travelling with an opened can of that goop somewhere in the car. Pew! I find if my labs aren't feeling well and off their grub for more than a feeding, I'll add just a bit of milk over the dry dogfood and that usually gets them going. On the road you might want to try picking up some dried milk and mix up a bit of that to put over the dry dogfood and see if doesn't work.

I have an old cattle syringe that would work great for flushing Opal's eyes. Hmmm. On second thought I think I'll leave it home when I go to Montana next month for pheasants. If on the odd chance the border guys decide to search my vehicle, a syringe in there might lead to a more thorough examination. I enjoy sitting on my upholstery as opposed to bare springs!

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from spentcartridge wrote 38 weeks 4 days ago

Bottle of peroxide, box of baking soda and bottle of dish detergent (Palmolive). Break glass in case of skunking.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from mullet wrote 38 weeks 11 hours ago

After a few torn pads on my golden, I keep Nuskin in my kit. Super Glue works too.

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from Ontario Honker ... wrote 38 weeks 2 hours ago

Good tip, Mullet. Thanks!

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from chadlove wrote 38 weeks 4 days ago

Thanks for the suggestions, guys. OH, I don't actually carry the syringe in my vest. I keep them in my first-aid kit at the truck, and yep, I meant the riveted type tag on the collar, not the jingly type.

As for the canned food, no, I don't feed a lot of it, I just use enough to get the dry kibble smelling good enough for her to eat, and if I have a dog that eats well on a trip, I don't add the wet food. It's basically just a trick to get picky dogs to eat in the field. My little female setter, for whatever reason, just doesn't seem to be interested in food while traveling.

For eye obstructions I usually use eye wash or water in a syringe to irrigate.

+1 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 39 weeks 1 day ago

Hmmm. Yes I pack Benedryl but no first aid kit. Not even for myself but I think I'll fix that this year. My dogs have always been so totally in control that I have not had trouble giving them pills although I usually stuff them in something like cheeze or weenie. I'm not sure I'd want to carry a syringe around when I'm hunting.

Snakebite vaccine is just hype. I'm not buying it.

I prefer the riveted name tags for dog collars so there's no noise or nothing to get caught on stuff.

I don't carry an extra collar. My dogs are never out of sight (even the Britt pup). Even if they lost their collars, it really wouldn't make any difference. I always take the compression collars along so I can walk them in town when staying with friends in Montana. Add that to your list, Chad.

No barking dogs (never!) and absolutely no electronics so no need for extra batteries or instruction manuals. I have never used a whistle. My dogs respond to verbal commands. A few centuries ago I would have been burned at the stake as consorting with the devil if anyone had heard me talking to my pooches. Perhaps that's where the idea of whistle training hunting dogs was first developed?

Canned dog food? No friggin way! If a dog isn't used to that greasy crap you'll definitely need that pro-biotic stuff. I've never owned a hunting dog (all labs) that didn't travel well. They get into the alkali water in Montana but it doesn't seem to mess them up too much. They usually get adjusted fairly quickly. Add a collapsable water jug to the list.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 39 weeks 23 hours ago

Chad, for that pup you might want to take along a collapsable kennel for motels and staying with friends etc. I took one with me to Montana last year. Collapsed it and stuck it up between the two clothes hanging poles in the cargo area. Secure well with bungee cords. They are sure a lot handier than lugging one of those airline type kennels back and forth from vehicle to house. And the kennel can be collapsed and stored in the residence much easier too.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Sayfu wrote 39 weeks 16 hours ago

Got to have he first aid kit. Both my dogs got porky struck several years ago. They also get seeds in their eyes that need to be removed after hunting. Happy to read about your snake shot your dog got, and the syringe you take with you. Posters refuted the need for that. I also take along my vest full of small bone treats when my dog retrieves/flushes a bird.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 39 weeks 10 hours ago

Sayfu, for your information porcupine quills contain an antibiotic (although hedgehog quills do not). Possibly evolved as a reproductive safety item. You really only need to pull them out. A leatherman and well-disciplined dog are all that's needed. Severl years ago one of my labs got a mouthful while we were fishing the Little Blackfoot in Montana. I was trail crew boss and we were about fifty miles in the backcountry and I had no pliers. I sat Ethyl in the middle of thr trail and started pulling them out of her nose and gums with my teeth. One of the crew came looking for me and about passed out when he came around the corner and saw me all bloody faced apparently chewing on my dog's mouth while she just sat there. "I have no idea why that dog just doesn't bite your face off." I grumbled, "She wouldn't DARE!" He meekly agreed and quickly disappeared. THAT was a well-controlled dog.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 39 weeks 10 hours ago

What's in a first aid kit that gets seeds out the dog's eyes?

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 38 weeks 6 days ago

For those of you thinking of crossing the international border make sure you have your dog's up-to-date rabies vaccination papers. Also, if it's a valuable dog, especially a young one, you may need proof of ownership. I don't have to tell you to do your homework re moving guns or even parts of guns across the border! Ugh!

As to dog food, I buy small bags as I go along. It's easier to stash these where the dogs can't get at them. Fairly good varieties are usually available even at the country mom & pop grocery stores. We have already debated the pros and cons of fussy fancy souped up dog food brands. You can always find reasonable alternatives even shopping in out of the way places. Just pay attention to the nutritional contents published on the bag ... somewhere. Seems the manufacturers try to make this info as discreet as possible. I can usually hunt my dogs on cheaper dogfood till their feet have worn out and they still seem to have plenty of gas left.

For those hunting the heavy cactus country don't forget to pick up some protectivve footwear for your dogs. I have never used these (except for road salt situations here during the winter) because I tend to stay on ground that's not quite dry enough for the prickly pears. However, that usually means dealing with russian olive which is mostly the pits for me and less so for the dogs.

And for those guys who hunt harvested corn fields, pick up some protective chest wear for your dogs! That stuff can literally be murder for a dog running through it to retrieve a downed bird.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from TexAg wrote 38 weeks 6 days ago

OH, to get seeds out of a dogs eye you can use several different methods: q-tips, eye solution, or a syringe of water (without the needle).

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 38 weeks 6 days ago

Opal gets the red eye quite a bit but I presumed it was dust related and just use saline drops from over the counter. I don't recall seeing any seeds in their eyes but labs don't have notoriously droopy lower eyelids like some breeds (e.g. cocker spaniels).

Now that you mention Q-tips, having some first aid stuff along for their ears is always a good idea, particularly for retrievers who are in the water a lot. And, as Chad noted in a recent thread, weed seeds can be very problematic for dogs, some breeds worse than others.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from dogwood wrote 38 weeks 5 days ago

Novalsan Solution
Saline (and syringes to flush wounds or eyes)
Alcohol wipes
Gauze Squares
Vet-wrap
Telfa Pads
Bandage Gauze
Elastikon Tape (Vet Wrap)
Hemostats
Bandage Scissors
Quik Stop - clotting powder
Thermometer
Prednisone 20mg (5)
Metronidazole 250mg (10) (Flagyl) antibotic for skin infections
Benadryl 25mg (10) (diphenhydramine)
Rimadyl 25mg (10) NSAID pain reliever
Famotidine 20mg (5) Pepsid

I'd add Tramadol for pain.

List appeared on doublegunshop.com. Link won't post because Chadbot thinks it contains obscene word. Gil

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 38 weeks 4 days ago

Pearl is on prednisone as part of her cancer treatment plan. It's a steroid for shrinking tumors. Can't be bought over the counter up here.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 38 weeks 4 days ago

When I was a kid we had a lab that could be a bit finicky about dry dog food and we'd suppliment with some canned stuff. Forgot about that. However, dry dogfood has come a long ways since those days. My Britt for whatever reason sometimes requires encouragement to get going eating her dry dogfood. She always insists on saying thank you quite emphatically (weird, eh) but sometimes that's not enough and I have to hand feed her a kibble or two to get her going (so the other two pigs don't steal her rations). I would only start using canned dogfood as a last resort encouragement because it works too well and dogs develop a bad habit of demanding it or they won't eat. Among other things, the stuff is awful hard on their teeth! Also, I can't imagine travelling with an opened can of that goop somewhere in the car. Pew! I find if my labs aren't feeling well and off their grub for more than a feeding, I'll add just a bit of milk over the dry dogfood and that usually gets them going. On the road you might want to try picking up some dried milk and mix up a bit of that to put over the dry dogfood and see if doesn't work.

I have an old cattle syringe that would work great for flushing Opal's eyes. Hmmm. On second thought I think I'll leave it home when I go to Montana next month for pheasants. If on the odd chance the border guys decide to search my vehicle, a syringe in there might lead to a more thorough examination. I enjoy sitting on my upholstery as opposed to bare springs!

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from spentcartridge wrote 38 weeks 4 days ago

Bottle of peroxide, box of baking soda and bottle of dish detergent (Palmolive). Break glass in case of skunking.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from mullet wrote 38 weeks 11 hours ago

After a few torn pads on my golden, I keep Nuskin in my kit. Super Glue works too.

0 Good Comment? | | Report
from Ontario Honker ... wrote 38 weeks 2 hours ago

Good tip, Mullet. Thanks!

0 Good Comment? | | Report

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