


April 27, 2010
Tie Talk: The Bow-Legged Hopper
By Tim Romano
Last week Deeter wrote about the likely impending grasshopper plague forecast for the western United States this summer. Someone asked if we could show a pattern to present should this infestation materialize.
So I called our fly guy Jason Borger and asked him what he'd throw this summer out West. He replied with the Bow Legged Hopper. The following is another fine pattern from Mr. Borger and his website, Fish Flies and Water and a unique photograph taken from a trout's perspective of both the natural and tied versions. - TR



Comments (15)
That's one good looking hopper, looks good enough to eat. Thank you and Mr Borger for the instructions and the site!
I should note that the fly shown in the "fish's window" view uses a furled body instead of the body shown in the pattern recipe. If you know how to do a furl, it's a lot faster. And...if you don't want to deal with the somewhat involved pheasant-fiber legs, try pre-made hopper legs instead.
What flexible head cement do you recommend?
buckhunter,
Dang, I forget the composition of that flexible stuff. It is Tolumine(sp?) and ? Some of the tiers that use lots of it make their own...it is "Shoe-goo" thinned out some. I bought a large jar at a big box store for fairly cheap. Dave Whitlock has it marketed as "Dave's cement", and is much more expensive.
I sure like rubber legs, over trying to make those jointed, pheasant feather legs, and the rubber moves a lot more in the water.
Thank Sayfu.
I have never found a head cement that I liked. I stopped using it years ago due to discoloring or disolving after getting wet a few time
Jason & TR...thanks for the pattern and yes I'll use the speckled rubber legs. Perfect timing for the Eastern Slope (High Sierras) 'cause the hoppers are in flight right now!
that's a crazy fly, should be interesting to see if it works here in Central Wisconsin where we don't really have any hatches just teresstrials.
Where are comments 4-7?
For some reason my computer was not showing all of the responses. All is well now.
Here's a great one to go along with the terrestial theme. On some rivers everyone is throwing big hoppers along the banks, and fish get shy about taking them. A good pattern is a smaller ant, or a beetle pattern. I went to our big flytying Expo recently held in Idaho Falls, and got to sit down with many tiers from around the country, and watch them tie their specialty patterns...One guy was Scott Sanchez, of Jackson, WY. Scott is quite an inventor of flies and new use of materials, and I have been tying up one of his specialities.. He uses Gorilla GLUE! It is very strong, and air/foam and really floats the fly. It expands some, and you have to allow for that. He puts a small bit on paper, and then adds some acrylic paint to get the color he wants. He puts a ball of it on the back of the hook, and a ball on the front for the ant pattern. He then has the hooks drying. Before they dry you can also shape the glue if you need to, just wet a tooth pick, and it will allow you to shape it. Then he can add a hackle in between the balls of glue, add rubber legs is an option, and add hackle tip wings extending out over the back ball, or just a visible wing of hair or poly yarn for effect and visibility. Makes a great, good floating terrestrial, and smaller can be better than bigger often, especially as the hopper season wears on.
Buckhunter, Dang, went braindead again, but even commercial tiers will use a cheap brand of fingernail polish..?? can't think of the brand, and I have used it as well at times. You need a lacquer on the head of a fly because a wet thread will loosen the thread of a fly, and the fly come apart, or a wing end up twisted around the hook. If you tie in the tails of a fly, and then material is applied, and you never have a wrap around the hook again from the tail to the head...only around the material, it is very easy for the thread to loosen, and materials twist once they are wet. If you can say wrap a body material a short distance, then a wrap, or two around the hook, then back around the material, you have lessened the problem of twisting, but you should have a lacquer at the head.
buckhunter—The flexible coating for the deer hair head that was originally used on the fly was Dave's Flexament. In more recent years, I've been using Loon's water-based flexible cement (well, in this case, it's a coating). Peeling issues aside, either of those coatings should improve the life of the deer-hair head.
One (slightly humorous) reason that I tend to have the water-base stuff by my vise: I used to production tie when I was younger, and one order was for something like 100 dozen Humpy-style flies (folded deer-hair backs). Following production protocol, I tied them all first, then grabbed my bottle(s) of solvent-based coating and did all the backs at once. By the time I was halfway through, I didn't even have to climb the basement steps—I just floated right on up!
muskiehunter—Should work well in Central Wisconsin...that's where I'm originally from. As for hatches in WI, certainly don't miss the Hex! Some of the best night-fishing there is with massive dries....
Thank you Jason.
I paid a visit to your site. Very nice. Are the drawings and paintings yours?
buckhunter—Thanks for the site visit and the kind words about FF&W. The drawings and paintings are mine, yes (including that hopper stuff above, which is from my way-back college days). Hope you'll find at least a few of the flies coming up here to be useful in your own angling journey.
Here's a criticism of that pattern. It seems that I'm against Jason Borger, and I am anything but...he and his dad have been great at advancing flyfishing in all aspects of the sport. I have been rewarded over the years, to have been able to attend Gary Borger presentations at Sportsman's Shows, watch his videos and read his books and writings, as well as Jaspn's writings. I have used for years Gary's finishing knot on flies, and haven't used a whip finisher for decades.
Criticism...Extended body flies extending out beyond the bend of the hook result in less solid hookups...especially if the material has any bulk. The fish ends up pushing the fly out of the way, and avoiding a solid hookup.
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I should note that the fly shown in the "fish's window" view uses a furled body instead of the body shown in the pattern recipe. If you know how to do a furl, it's a lot faster. And...if you don't want to deal with the somewhat involved pheasant-fiber legs, try pre-made hopper legs instead.
That's one good looking hopper, looks good enough to eat. Thank you and Mr Borger for the instructions and the site!
What flexible head cement do you recommend?
buckhunter,
Dang, I forget the composition of that flexible stuff. It is Tolumine(sp?) and ? Some of the tiers that use lots of it make their own...it is "Shoe-goo" thinned out some. I bought a large jar at a big box store for fairly cheap. Dave Whitlock has it marketed as "Dave's cement", and is much more expensive.
I sure like rubber legs, over trying to make those jointed, pheasant feather legs, and the rubber moves a lot more in the water.
Thank Sayfu.
I have never found a head cement that I liked. I stopped using it years ago due to discoloring or disolving after getting wet a few time
Jason & TR...thanks for the pattern and yes I'll use the speckled rubber legs. Perfect timing for the Eastern Slope (High Sierras) 'cause the hoppers are in flight right now!
that's a crazy fly, should be interesting to see if it works here in Central Wisconsin where we don't really have any hatches just teresstrials.
Where are comments 4-7?
For some reason my computer was not showing all of the responses. All is well now.
Here's a great one to go along with the terrestial theme. On some rivers everyone is throwing big hoppers along the banks, and fish get shy about taking them. A good pattern is a smaller ant, or a beetle pattern. I went to our big flytying Expo recently held in Idaho Falls, and got to sit down with many tiers from around the country, and watch them tie their specialty patterns...One guy was Scott Sanchez, of Jackson, WY. Scott is quite an inventor of flies and new use of materials, and I have been tying up one of his specialities.. He uses Gorilla GLUE! It is very strong, and air/foam and really floats the fly. It expands some, and you have to allow for that. He puts a small bit on paper, and then adds some acrylic paint to get the color he wants. He puts a ball of it on the back of the hook, and a ball on the front for the ant pattern. He then has the hooks drying. Before they dry you can also shape the glue if you need to, just wet a tooth pick, and it will allow you to shape it. Then he can add a hackle in between the balls of glue, add rubber legs is an option, and add hackle tip wings extending out over the back ball, or just a visible wing of hair or poly yarn for effect and visibility. Makes a great, good floating terrestrial, and smaller can be better than bigger often, especially as the hopper season wears on.
Buckhunter, Dang, went braindead again, but even commercial tiers will use a cheap brand of fingernail polish..?? can't think of the brand, and I have used it as well at times. You need a lacquer on the head of a fly because a wet thread will loosen the thread of a fly, and the fly come apart, or a wing end up twisted around the hook. If you tie in the tails of a fly, and then material is applied, and you never have a wrap around the hook again from the tail to the head...only around the material, it is very easy for the thread to loosen, and materials twist once they are wet. If you can say wrap a body material a short distance, then a wrap, or two around the hook, then back around the material, you have lessened the problem of twisting, but you should have a lacquer at the head.
buckhunter—The flexible coating for the deer hair head that was originally used on the fly was Dave's Flexament. In more recent years, I've been using Loon's water-based flexible cement (well, in this case, it's a coating). Peeling issues aside, either of those coatings should improve the life of the deer-hair head.
One (slightly humorous) reason that I tend to have the water-base stuff by my vise: I used to production tie when I was younger, and one order was for something like 100 dozen Humpy-style flies (folded deer-hair backs). Following production protocol, I tied them all first, then grabbed my bottle(s) of solvent-based coating and did all the backs at once. By the time I was halfway through, I didn't even have to climb the basement steps—I just floated right on up!
muskiehunter—Should work well in Central Wisconsin...that's where I'm originally from. As for hatches in WI, certainly don't miss the Hex! Some of the best night-fishing there is with massive dries....
Thank you Jason.
I paid a visit to your site. Very nice. Are the drawings and paintings yours?
buckhunter—Thanks for the site visit and the kind words about FF&W. The drawings and paintings are mine, yes (including that hopper stuff above, which is from my way-back college days). Hope you'll find at least a few of the flies coming up here to be useful in your own angling journey.
Here's a criticism of that pattern. It seems that I'm against Jason Borger, and I am anything but...he and his dad have been great at advancing flyfishing in all aspects of the sport. I have been rewarded over the years, to have been able to attend Gary Borger presentations at Sportsman's Shows, watch his videos and read his books and writings, as well as Jaspn's writings. I have used for years Gary's finishing knot on flies, and haven't used a whip finisher for decades.
Criticism...Extended body flies extending out beyond the bend of the hook result in less solid hookups...especially if the material has any bulk. The fish ends up pushing the fly out of the way, and avoiding a solid hookup.
Post a Comment