By David Draper

Though I snapped both the photos featured in this week’s Food Fight, I did not cook either. Both were prepared by professional chefs in two very nice restaurants. I’m presenting them here to make a point about game meat, and duck in particular. I’m tired of people, including hunters, bad-mouthing the way wild game tastes. It’s bad enough when the uneducated public does it, but every time I hear a waterfowler say, “Duck tastes like crap,” all I can do is shake my head (to keep from shaking them).

If you’re cooking duck and it tastes bad, the only thing I can tell you is you’re doing it wrong. There’s a reason duck can be found on the menus of high-end restaurants around the world and it’s not because it tastes bad. (Spare me the lecture about the difference between domestic and wild ducks. Fact is: The taste isn’t that different.) So, to otherwise convince the non-believers, here are two dishes that reaffirmed my belief that, done well (but not well done), duck is delicious.

Mario Batali’s B&B Ristorante

A perfectly cooked, crisp-skinned roast duck leg and breast, served over braised cabbage with a light drizzle of vin cotto.

Charlie Palmer’s Aureole

A wild bitter greens and caramelized bosc pear salad with duck prosciutto, shaved foie torchon and quince vinaigrette.

Enough of my ranting; let’s vote. Though I’m not sure I could tell you which dish tasted better, I’m leaving it to you to tell me which looks better. And if you’ve got a duck dish or fish or game photo you’d like to see here, e-mail it to fswildchef@gmail.com.

Comments (14)

from Greenhead wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

Tough choice, both look amazing, but I would eat shoe leather if Charlie Palmer served it to me.

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from CL3 wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

Easy for me... you had me at the word, "charcuterie!"

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from Brtkearns wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

you had me at foie torchon

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from Hornd wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

Look up Hank Shaws Article:
Canvasback, King of Ducks
*F&S will not let me post the link which makes no sense

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from wp wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

Who say's duck tastes like crap? Were they eating a parboiled coot or something? I have never had bad duck unless it was overcooked and dried out.

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from bassman06 wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

David, this isn't fair! I'm drooling over this and I know I wouldn't be able to have this today if it was served! Well, it's lent for a few of us here... Still, I wish I could even smell it!

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from Mibasshunter wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

My mother still says to this day that duck is horrible even though I tell her she probably doesn't cook it right.

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from Mibasshunter wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

I love how Mario's shows off the meet when Charlies hides it under cheese and veggies.

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from fezzant wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

I love duck. Can't understand why some people don't.

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from Sayfu wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

Should be every duck hunters dream to have one of my duck burger Sandwiches. I'm surprised Ronald hasn't come up with it..fillet off the side of a Mallard's breast, and tenderized with a pounder. Onions, and bacon,...grilled quick losing no moisture. Got the tip year's ago in TAP'S TIPS.

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from Nyflyangler wrote 1 year 15 weeks ago

If you don't like the taste of duck, well don't go out and shoot them. More for those who do like the taste.

Problem solved.

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from tutulu1502 wrote 1 year 15 weeks ago

To me wild duck has a better flavor than farm raised. But as the comments above say most people cannot cook wild meat properly. These chefs could cook anything and make it taste fantastic!

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from Mike Gnatkowski wrote 1 year 15 weeks ago

Wild duck is very different than domestic duck prepared at a restaurant. Much stronger flavor and less fat. Check out the simple, yet delicious waterfowl recipes in my cookbook Wild Game Simple @ gnatoutdoors.com or on Kindle.

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from Mike Gnatkowski wrote 1 year 15 weeks ago

Take two mallard breasts. Put one skin-side down (without the skin though) in a baking dish. Add a good-sized dollop of cornbread stuffing. Lay the other breast on top and add a couple strips of bacon to keep the breasts moist. Bake for an hour at 400 degrees. Take come cherry preserves and add a little orange juice to make a sauce to pour over the breasts before serving. Simple; awesome!

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from Nyflyangler wrote 1 year 15 weeks ago

If you don't like the taste of duck, well don't go out and shoot them. More for those who do like the taste.

Problem solved.

+2 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from CL3 wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

Easy for me... you had me at the word, "charcuterie!"

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from tutulu1502 wrote 1 year 15 weeks ago

To me wild duck has a better flavor than farm raised. But as the comments above say most people cannot cook wild meat properly. These chefs could cook anything and make it taste fantastic!

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Mike Gnatkowski wrote 1 year 15 weeks ago

Wild duck is very different than domestic duck prepared at a restaurant. Much stronger flavor and less fat. Check out the simple, yet delicious waterfowl recipes in my cookbook Wild Game Simple @ gnatoutdoors.com or on Kindle.

+1 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Greenhead wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

Tough choice, both look amazing, but I would eat shoe leather if Charlie Palmer served it to me.

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from Brtkearns wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

you had me at foie torchon

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Hornd wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

Look up Hank Shaws Article:
Canvasback, King of Ducks
*F&S will not let me post the link which makes no sense

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from wp wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

Who say's duck tastes like crap? Were they eating a parboiled coot or something? I have never had bad duck unless it was overcooked and dried out.

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from bassman06 wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

David, this isn't fair! I'm drooling over this and I know I wouldn't be able to have this today if it was served! Well, it's lent for a few of us here... Still, I wish I could even smell it!

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Mibasshunter wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

My mother still says to this day that duck is horrible even though I tell her she probably doesn't cook it right.

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Mibasshunter wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

I love how Mario's shows off the meet when Charlies hides it under cheese and veggies.

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from fezzant wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

I love duck. Can't understand why some people don't.

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Sayfu wrote 1 year 16 weeks ago

Should be every duck hunters dream to have one of my duck burger Sandwiches. I'm surprised Ronald hasn't come up with it..fillet off the side of a Mallard's breast, and tenderized with a pounder. Onions, and bacon,...grilled quick losing no moisture. Got the tip year's ago in TAP'S TIPS.

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

from Mike Gnatkowski wrote 1 year 15 weeks ago

Take two mallard breasts. Put one skin-side down (without the skin though) in a baking dish. Add a good-sized dollop of cornbread stuffing. Lay the other breast on top and add a couple strips of bacon to keep the breasts moist. Bake for an hour at 400 degrees. Take come cherry preserves and add a little orange juice to make a sauce to pour over the breasts before serving. Simple; awesome!

0 Good Comment? Yes | No | Report

Post a Comment

 

All submitted comments are subject to the rules set forth in our Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.