


July 25, 2012
What Recipes and Cooking Tips Would You Want in a Duck Cookbook?
By David Draper
I think most of you have heard of Hank Shaw, the man behind the inspiring and informative blog Hunter Angler Gardener Cook and author of the book Hunt, Gather, Cook. If you haven’t taken a look at either, you owe it to yourself as a wild-game cook to do so. As I’ve mentioned before, Hank is at the forefront of fish and wild game cookery, and he does a brilliant job of bridging the gap between hunters who cook and cooks who may or may not hunt, but are at least intrigued by the idea of locally and humanely sourced foods. He’s one guy I would love to share a dinner table (and duck blind) with someday.
Earlier this week Hank dropped me an e-mail asking for my help. Well, more accurately, asking for your help. He recently inked a deal to write what he hopes will be the definitive guide to cooking waterfowl, including both wild and domestic ducks and geese, and wants to know what you think should be included. Here’s what he’s looking for, from his blog post announcing the book deal:
“Tell me what techniques or recipes (or other information) you really want to see in this book. How to cut up a duck? How to make Peking duck? Techniques on smoking geese? That sort of thing. My hope is that this book will be as useful to novice cooks as it will be to professional chefs.”
There are many things I would like Hank’s take on, but here are two I really think are important:
Plucking vs. Skinning: I think all of us can agree plucking is the preferred method, but I’d like some honest alternatives on how to prepare skinned birds, both the breast and legs (which I’ll get to in a minute). I’d bet most waterfowl hunters skin their birds because, well, we’re lazy and skinning is way easier (and cleaner) than plucking, especially when you’re dealing with a limit of birds.
Using the Legs: I don’t preach from too many soapboxes, but one that I do frequent is filled with duck and goose (and turkey and pheasant) legs. So many guys stop with the breast meat, which is a shame because the thighs and drumsticks are equal, if not superior, to the meat from a bird’s breast. So hopefully Hank will climb up here with me and help spread the word.
So, dear readers, how about helping out a fellow Wild Chef? What is it you’d like to see in the definitive duck and goose cookbook? Post your comments below.
Comments (18)
Growing up, dad had one recipe for ducks, it was some sort of red wine braised duck. In my teens, we found that a simple marinade and some bacon did wonders for it on the grill and we did it that way all the time. Since that time, I've grown fond of plucked birds, even the smaller teal that are roasted. A variety of cooking methods and cultural background recipes would be a really great way to go.
I breast out alot of birds, but being a beginner duck hunter, not so much, I'd like to see some more skinned, fried foods, not just finer stuff, I would also like to see more recipes focuses around the breast and legs, and less of the whole burd plucked and cooked in the oven, also maybe crockpot or dutch oven recipes?
show how to pluck using the hot wax method
I do an apricot chipotle seared duck breast from time to time in the restaurant and it is very tasty and easy. I take 2 breasts and lightly rub them with a little salt, pepper, ground mustard, and a tiny amount of ground ginger. Then seared in a hot pan with a drizzle of olive oil. The sauce(to be simple) is just apricot preserve, some chipotle paste and a little bit of honey, stir in a sauce pan till hot. Then slice the duck and serve over a little pool of the sauce. It's a great 10 min. dish.
I remember a while back there was a recipe for duck prosciutto. Going to give that a try this year.
I too, never waste the legs of any game bird, especially waterfowl.I also found that the waiting that often comes with duck shooting is a good time to pluck most of the breast feathers. Duck skin crisps very nice. Oh, yes, a recipe, how about a recipe for a nice cassoulet?
For me, I'd like to see recipes that highlight the unique flavors of the duck but make these recipes realistic enough that the ingredients can be found at a local grocery store rather than breaking the bank to order ingredients online or through a catalog.
I'd also like a variety of cooking methods from using the stove top to using the oven to using the grill. Duck has the versatility to be absolutely wonderful in each setting.
I'd also like to see duck used in a variety of meals too. What I mean is that I'd like to see a portion of the cookbook be dedicated to making some breakfast type dishes as well as lunch and dinner fare. The reason I'd like to see this is because when you're at the camp, nothing would be better than taking the morning hunt into the morning breakfast.
I would love a duck based cookbook because my family's cache of duck recipes is thin, real thin.
DON'T YOU DARE OVERCOOK THAT BIRD!
I would like to see:
a recipe for whole oven roasted duck and/or goose, that does not assume you have a fat domestic bird;
deep fried whole duck, done like a turkey (excellent);
a beginner-friendly version of confit;
various methods of cooking, smoking, or curing birds to serve cold. I love duck breast seared medium rare and served chilled on a sandwich with some horseradish. I am sure Mr. Shaw can come up with some other great combinations;
along with Mr. Draper suggestions for skinned birds, maybe some stir fry or fajita recipes that really capitalize on the flavor of the duck, rather than just using it as a substitute for beef.
Sounds like I great book, I can't wait to pick it up.
a detailed breakdown of plucking, for sure. I've read a lot of resources and I still can't shake the feeling that I'm doing it wrong. Also, as an aside, if you haven't checked out Hank's site, do so now. he is easily one of the best wild game food writers out there now and he has been INCREDIBLY helpful when I've written him emails in the past. His recipe for polish sausage (goose or duck - I use goose) is excellent.
I would like to see a few marinade recipes that don't completely overpower the natural flavor of the duck. All to often I will try a new marinade and it is so loaded with soy sauce that you lose the rich flavor of the meat.
My favorite way to cook duck is to pan fry a skin on breats in a minimal amount of olive oil, seasoned lightly with salt and pepper, and cooked to medium rare. It's quick and easy, and absolutely wonderful. I would like a pro's twist on this, maybe a couple quick tips to really liven it up, while at the same time keeping it straight forward and simple.
Hey DD, tell him that he should be kind enough to provide us with a recipe or two for the feedback :)
A section for "beginners". I know many guys (including me) who have hunted waterfowl for years, however are still up in the air about how to prepare different species. Many consider several species not worth cooking because of previously poor experiences eating them.
TRY to remove the shot.........
it seems I am always the winner on that one....
I always get it....
lol
I'd like to see the recipes be broken up into "Easy/fast", medium difficulty and complex. Or just a section on fast.
Most of the time I am one of those lazy cook-it-up-fast folks and hate to dig through a book to figure out which ones are easy to prepare.
Also cover preparation and marinades well. AND what to always keep in stock. Maybe even a translation of some odd cooking terms/phrases too for those of us non-chefs.
On the actual recipe front for Brant my wife used a beef barley soup recipe substituting the beef and it was great!
Last thing - get some actual taste testing done on recipes before published. Better yet have someone you know independently use the recipe and taste test the reults. Some recipes I have tried sounded good but turned out bad. Probably the cook's fault but who knows?
I sumtimes like to render down sum bacon--I then drench the whole bird with the bacon fat--I drop it in a Large ziplock--Depending on my mood I either make a Mojo & pour in allowing it to marinade all night before grilling it (indirect)or I put a generous amount of minced garlic in the bag marinating for the same period but I take a Large cast iron dutch oven & make a roux--then throw in sum onion/celery & a little bell pepper with salt/pepper & about a 1/4 tsp. of cayenne--I usually will do a medium brown roux then add one can of chicken broth with 2 cans of water & 1/2 can of a good red wine--If you can't drink it don't cook with it--You can now position yur bird in the pot--Baste it to start then drop yur heat down to low--Put Cover on & baste & stir every 20 minutes or so till done--Fix yurself sum kicked up wild rice ( I like to put sum Chorizo in mine--Johnsonville makes a good one) & Veggie of choice--Mmmm
#1. Shoot good eating ducks, mallards, pintails, teal, ringnecks, redheads, canvasbacks, others may good regionally. Let the rest fly by.
#2 Pluck, don't skin.
#3.Cook rare to medium-rare.
#4.Sauce, marinade,and anything else you put on duck means you don't like duck, or you shot a poor tasting duck.
Duck breast Sando cooked at Bodega Bay Farm market by Northwest Catering. Please obtain!!!
Post a Comment
Growing up, dad had one recipe for ducks, it was some sort of red wine braised duck. In my teens, we found that a simple marinade and some bacon did wonders for it on the grill and we did it that way all the time. Since that time, I've grown fond of plucked birds, even the smaller teal that are roasted. A variety of cooking methods and cultural background recipes would be a really great way to go.
DON'T YOU DARE OVERCOOK THAT BIRD!
I would like to see:
a recipe for whole oven roasted duck and/or goose, that does not assume you have a fat domestic bird;
deep fried whole duck, done like a turkey (excellent);
a beginner-friendly version of confit;
various methods of cooking, smoking, or curing birds to serve cold. I love duck breast seared medium rare and served chilled on a sandwich with some horseradish. I am sure Mr. Shaw can come up with some other great combinations;
along with Mr. Draper suggestions for skinned birds, maybe some stir fry or fajita recipes that really capitalize on the flavor of the duck, rather than just using it as a substitute for beef.
Sounds like I great book, I can't wait to pick it up.
a detailed breakdown of plucking, for sure. I've read a lot of resources and I still can't shake the feeling that I'm doing it wrong. Also, as an aside, if you haven't checked out Hank's site, do so now. he is easily one of the best wild game food writers out there now and he has been INCREDIBLY helpful when I've written him emails in the past. His recipe for polish sausage (goose or duck - I use goose) is excellent.
TRY to remove the shot.........
it seems I am always the winner on that one....
I always get it....
lol
Duck breast Sando cooked at Bodega Bay Farm market by Northwest Catering. Please obtain!!!
I breast out alot of birds, but being a beginner duck hunter, not so much, I'd like to see some more skinned, fried foods, not just finer stuff, I would also like to see more recipes focuses around the breast and legs, and less of the whole burd plucked and cooked in the oven, also maybe crockpot or dutch oven recipes?
show how to pluck using the hot wax method
I do an apricot chipotle seared duck breast from time to time in the restaurant and it is very tasty and easy. I take 2 breasts and lightly rub them with a little salt, pepper, ground mustard, and a tiny amount of ground ginger. Then seared in a hot pan with a drizzle of olive oil. The sauce(to be simple) is just apricot preserve, some chipotle paste and a little bit of honey, stir in a sauce pan till hot. Then slice the duck and serve over a little pool of the sauce. It's a great 10 min. dish.
I remember a while back there was a recipe for duck prosciutto. Going to give that a try this year.
I too, never waste the legs of any game bird, especially waterfowl.I also found that the waiting that often comes with duck shooting is a good time to pluck most of the breast feathers. Duck skin crisps very nice. Oh, yes, a recipe, how about a recipe for a nice cassoulet?
For me, I'd like to see recipes that highlight the unique flavors of the duck but make these recipes realistic enough that the ingredients can be found at a local grocery store rather than breaking the bank to order ingredients online or through a catalog.
I'd also like a variety of cooking methods from using the stove top to using the oven to using the grill. Duck has the versatility to be absolutely wonderful in each setting.
I'd also like to see duck used in a variety of meals too. What I mean is that I'd like to see a portion of the cookbook be dedicated to making some breakfast type dishes as well as lunch and dinner fare. The reason I'd like to see this is because when you're at the camp, nothing would be better than taking the morning hunt into the morning breakfast.
I would love a duck based cookbook because my family's cache of duck recipes is thin, real thin.
I would like to see a few marinade recipes that don't completely overpower the natural flavor of the duck. All to often I will try a new marinade and it is so loaded with soy sauce that you lose the rich flavor of the meat.
My favorite way to cook duck is to pan fry a skin on breats in a minimal amount of olive oil, seasoned lightly with salt and pepper, and cooked to medium rare. It's quick and easy, and absolutely wonderful. I would like a pro's twist on this, maybe a couple quick tips to really liven it up, while at the same time keeping it straight forward and simple.
Hey DD, tell him that he should be kind enough to provide us with a recipe or two for the feedback :)
A section for "beginners". I know many guys (including me) who have hunted waterfowl for years, however are still up in the air about how to prepare different species. Many consider several species not worth cooking because of previously poor experiences eating them.
I'd like to see the recipes be broken up into "Easy/fast", medium difficulty and complex. Or just a section on fast.
Most of the time I am one of those lazy cook-it-up-fast folks and hate to dig through a book to figure out which ones are easy to prepare.
Also cover preparation and marinades well. AND what to always keep in stock. Maybe even a translation of some odd cooking terms/phrases too for those of us non-chefs.
On the actual recipe front for Brant my wife used a beef barley soup recipe substituting the beef and it was great!
Last thing - get some actual taste testing done on recipes before published. Better yet have someone you know independently use the recipe and taste test the reults. Some recipes I have tried sounded good but turned out bad. Probably the cook's fault but who knows?
I sumtimes like to render down sum bacon--I then drench the whole bird with the bacon fat--I drop it in a Large ziplock--Depending on my mood I either make a Mojo & pour in allowing it to marinade all night before grilling it (indirect)or I put a generous amount of minced garlic in the bag marinating for the same period but I take a Large cast iron dutch oven & make a roux--then throw in sum onion/celery & a little bell pepper with salt/pepper & about a 1/4 tsp. of cayenne--I usually will do a medium brown roux then add one can of chicken broth with 2 cans of water & 1/2 can of a good red wine--If you can't drink it don't cook with it--You can now position yur bird in the pot--Baste it to start then drop yur heat down to low--Put Cover on & baste & stir every 20 minutes or so till done--Fix yurself sum kicked up wild rice ( I like to put sum Chorizo in mine--Johnsonville makes a good one) & Veggie of choice--Mmmm
#1. Shoot good eating ducks, mallards, pintails, teal, ringnecks, redheads, canvasbacks, others may good regionally. Let the rest fly by.
#2 Pluck, don't skin.
#3.Cook rare to medium-rare.
#4.Sauce, marinade,and anything else you put on duck means you don't like duck, or you shot a poor tasting duck.
Post a Comment