The more faithful among us have a few short weeks of Lent to get through before we can get back to enjoying a medium-rare venison steak on Friday nights. Until then, it’s still fish on Friday, but I’m okay with that if it tastes anywhere near as good as these two dishes look.
In our Six Pack series, I sit down with interesting people to ask them six questions about hunting, fishing, eating, and just plain living well. This week I sit down with Scott Leysath, better known as the Sporting Chef.
If you have any interest in wild-game cooking, and obviously you do, you’ve probably seen Scott Leysath’s name a time or two. Billing himself as the Sporting Chef, Leysath has been cooking up fish and wild game, and promoting it to the public, long before it was trendy. Over the years, he’s hosted a number of television shows and is a regular on the sport show circuit. Most recently, he serves as the host of “Dead Meat” on the Sportsman’s Channel and authored a new book of deer recipes, The Sporting Chef’s Better Venison Cookbook. I had a chance to hunt with Leysath in Utah last fall and found him humble, hilarious, and an all-around good guy.
When we met, you joked about recently burning yourself while making a batch of jerky in the smoker, relating yourself to all the rest of us hunter-cooks who have done the same thing at one time or another. How does that everyman approach translate into your wild-game cooking?
A couple weeks back, Wild Chef reader Levi Banks sent in some beaver posole. I was a little concerned times were getting so tough for Levi that he had to resort to fur-bearing rodents, but it seems my worries were premature. This week he kicks in a unique peanut venison stew to go against my venison sausage pizza.
In last week’s post about my North Carolina cottontail hunt, I promised I’d share the recipe for camp cook Danny Martin’s smoked barbecue rabbit. Danny was an amazing cook who always seemed to have the smoker going out back. He served us some amazing eats for lunch and supper, so when he asked if we’d like a few of our rabbits cooked up as an appetizer everyone in the group gave an enthusiastic yes.
Helping the homeless and hungry through the donation of venison and other game meat is one of hunting’s greatest—and least reported—contributions to society. Hundreds of shelters and soup kitchens around the country rely on hunter-donated meat to feed those in need. So I was particularly appalled by this story coming out of Louisiana where state officials not only barred a local shelter from serving hunter-donated meat, but also destroyed 1,600 pounds of venison they found in the shelter’s pantry. If you or I would have poured bleach over perfectly good, hunter-harvested meat, we’d have ended up with a very expensive citation for wanton waste. In Louisiana, state officials are proud of their work in “saving” the homeless from what they deem as unhealthy meat, despite the fact that hundreds of thousands of pounds of venison are eaten without incident at shelters across the U.S. every year.
I realized it’s been several weeks since I’ve stepped into the ring for a Friday Food Fight, so I think it’s time to knock the rust off a bit and get back in the game. I don’t want to pull a muscle, so I’ll start easy, with another photo of the Sunday Gravy I made earlier this month. Sticking with the Italian-American theme, my competitor will be Neil Selbicky, who fought a tough one in the last Food Fight against Levi’s beaver. Let’s see if we can put Neil in the winner’s circle this week.
What Wild Chef reader out there hasn’t driven past a road-killed deer and thought, if only briefly, about stopping to pull out the backstraps? I’ll admit I’ve thought about it, though I have not yet brought myself to actually skinning one on the side of the road. Several states have laws on the books regarding salvaging road-killed animals, and now Montana has joined them:
Montana may now be the ultimate drive-through destination for adventurous foodies thanks to a new law that allows residents to consume any animals they kill. The bill, which passed 19-2, allows deer, elk, moose and antelope that have been killed by a car to be harvested for food.
A friend and I were talking about food the other day when he asked me, “Do you remember Old English?” Me being me, I immediately thought he was talking about Olde English 800, that high-test malt liquor we swilled when we were young and didn’t know any better. After some back and forth, I figured out he was talking about the processed cheese food sold by Kraft in what my friend so aptly described as “jelly jars.” Once the fog induced by too many 40-ounce bottles of Olde English cleared away, I did remember that particular Old English, as well its companion Pimento cheese spread.
Last week, I spent a few days at Willow Oaks Plantation near Madison, N.C., testing the new Sportsman version of Remington’s Versamax shotgun. The testing protocol included swinging the shotgun at running rabbits being hounded by a pack of howling beagles. This was my first beagles-and-bunnies experience, and I can’t remember the last time I had so much fun in the woods. No pressure trying to kill the biggest rack. No worries about scent or sound. And, if you miss, there’s a good chance the dogs will run the rabbit by you again. As one of the more experienced rabbit hunters remarked, “This is the way hunting is supposed to be.”
This dish, a riff on an ancient Chinese method for cooking fish in which the flavor of steamed whole fish is turbocharged by a drizzling of smoking-hot, skin-crisping oil, is great at home, but even better on the beach after a muscular day of surfcasting. All you need, besides a campfire, is a wok with a lid, a heatproof plate, an oven mitt, and a few packable garnishes. Any whole fish will do, so long as it’ll fit inside the wok.