Field and Stream - Recipes RSS

Doves From Hell

Online Editors — Wed, 12 Nov 2008 15:22:22 -0500

Ingredients

HabaÑero mustard sauce (at right)

1 lb. dove breasts (about 15 or so mourning doves)

1 lime, halved

2 Tbsp. freshly chopped cilantro

Wild for Walleye

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 04:20:00 -0500

As with any wild food, the closer you are to the source, the better it's going to taste. Lucia Watson, an angler and chef who owns Lucia's Restaurant in Minneapolis, picks the lakeshore as the best place for cooking and eating walleyes. For Watson, that shore rims an island on Rainy Lake, near the Canadian border, where her family has maintained a fishing cabin for seven decades.

"Freshly caught walleye, dusted in cornmeal and fried up in some butter or bacon fat," she says. "That is heaven." That bit of heaven creeps onto her restaurant menu as well. At Lucia's, which Watson has operated in one of Minneapolis' oldest neighborhoods since 1985, she pairs cornmeal-crusted walleye fillets with a caper mayonnaise-a citified take on the traditional shore lunch of fried fish and tartar sauce. For "the Opener," that second May weekend when Minnesota anglers storm the northern lakes, Watson roasts walleye fillets with asparagus spears, fiddlehead ferns, and chives, all of it tucked into foil pouches.

When the fiddlehead ferns are gone for the season, sugar-snap peas make an excellent substitute. Either way, the dish is "hobo pack" cookery at its most versatile. You can cook this dish at home, as the recipe instructs, with some fresh walleye fillets, store-bought vegetables, and an oven, but it's even better cooked in the ash-covered coals of a campfire. And if you're willing to forage, in the spring, for wild asparagus and fiddleheads (and even wild chives), it's downright exquisite.

Look for fiddleheads-the coiled leafy tops of ostrich ferns, they get their name from their resemblance to a violin scroll-in northern hardwood forests in April and May. About that same time, you'll see the tips of wild asparagus poking up in farm ditches and weedy roadsides. If cattails are easier to find, use them: Peel the shoots and substitute the 1- to 12-inch white inner stalks, called "Cossack asparagus," for the asparagus. Wrap all the wild edibles-walleye and green stuff-securely in foil and cook in the low-burning coals of a campfire for about 10 minutes.

Recipe adapted from Savoring the Seasons of the Northern Heartland by Beth Dooley and Lucia Watson.

FOIL-ROASTED WALLEYE WITH ASPARAGUS AND SUGAR-SNAP PEAS

(Serves four)

4 tablespoons butter, softened
4 walleye fillets (about 4 to 6 ounces each)
8 asparagus spears
12 sugar-snap peas
1/4 cup snipped fresh chives
1 lemon, quartered
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

[BRACKET "1"] Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Cut four 1-foot-square sheets of aluminum foil. Liberally butter each sheet. On each sheet, place one walleye fillet, two asparagus spears cut into 1-inch pieces, and three sugar-snap peas.

[BRACKET "2"] Sprinkle the snipped fresh chives equally over each portion, squeeze the juice of a lemon quarter over each fillet, and then salt and pepper to taste.

[BRACKET "3"] Fold the aluminum foil to cover the fish and bake in the oven for about 12 minutes. Serve with buttered and parslied new potatoes, if desired.

The Other Red Meat

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 04:20:00 -0500

Picture a 1,200-pound Hereford steer: a big, lumbering slab of thick fat and meat. Now imagine a 140-pound buck, fleet-footed and elegant in comparison, a whole other beast. Sure, they're ungulate cousins, but it's hard to see any similarities. And that, says Texas chef Tim Love, is precisely where we're going wrong.

"They're basically the same," says Love, whose acclaimed flagship Fort Worth restaurant, Lonesome Dove Western Bistro, may be the ultimate crossroads of beef and game cookery, a stockyards-steeped eatery where diners veer between Love's 20-plus-inch "Tomahawk Chop" (a massive, bone-in beef rib chop) and a venison chop served with truffled mac-and-cheese, fried artichokes, and a morel mushroom glacÂ¿Â¿. There are some important distinctions-venison is inherently leaner than beef and more boldly flavored. But, Love continues, "It's meat, period. And if you can cook one, you can cook the other."

This should come as welcome news to hunters who've exhausted their trove of venison recipes, since most of the million-plus beef recipes out there, according to Love, easily translate for use with venison so long as you follow a few rules (see sidebar on p. 61). "Generally speaking, your cuts are all the same-except smaller, which means they cook in less time," says Love, a self-taught chef whose beef savvy dates back to his childhood spent on a Tennessee cattle farm and who can often be found hunting deer and doves at his Oklahoma ranch. "And the cuts are also leaner.

Venison doesn't have the marbling that beef has, so it's less forgiving when you cook it too long. People sometimes complain that venison is dry because it's lean. No, it's dry because they overcooked it. Venison can't be cooked past medium, so if you're a well-done kind of guy, you should stick with beef."

The following recipes-involving a rib eye, short ribs, and tenderloin-illustrate Love's meat-is-meat approach. They're all equally suited to venison or beef. "I always tell folks," he says, "not to learn how to cook a beef fillet. Learn how to cook a fillet." [NEXT "Braised & Barbecued Ribs With Homemade Pickles"]

Braised & Barbecued Ribs With Homemade Pickles

For the Venison Ribs
1 rack of venison ribs, at least 8 bones on the rack, or, if unavailable, 8 rib chops
2 carrots, roughly chopped
1⁄2 celery stalk, roughly chopped
2 white onions, roughly chopped
6 cloves garlic
1 jalapeÂ¿Â¿o, split
2 Tbsp. chile powder
1 tsp. whole black peppercorns
1⁄2 tsp. dried thyme
1⁄2 tsp. dried sage
1⁄2 tsp. ground cinnamon
1 bay leaf
1 cup barbecue sauce of your preference (Love recommends Stubb's)

1. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Put all the ingredients except the barbecue sauce in a large roasting pan and add enough water to cover the meat. Cover the pan with a tight-fitting lid or aluminum foil; or, even better, both foil and a lid.

2. Place in the oven; cook until very tender (as long as 8 hours).

3. Remove the ribs from the roasting pan and cool in the refrigerator overnight. Discard the cooking liquid.

4. Light a medium-hot fire in your grill. Slice the cooled rack into individual ribs and grill for about 3 minutes per side, or until heated through. Brush on the barbecue sauce and continue to cook, turning frequently, until they're browned but not blackened. Serve with the homemade pickles. Serves 4.

Homemade Pickles
3 cucumbers, sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 cups red onion, thinly sliced
2 cups red bell pepper, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves
4 serrano chiles

Pickling Liquid
2 cups red wine vinegar
2 cups water
1 cup sugar
2 jalapeÂ¿Â¿os, halved lengthwise
8 garlic cloves
1 cinnamon stick
1⁄2 tsp. mustard seed
1⁄2 tsp. coriander seed
1 bay leaf
3 whole cves
3 whole black peppercorns

1. Combine all the pickling liquid ingredients together in a medium saucepan and boil for 3 minutes.

2. Mix the remaining ingredients in a bowl, and pour the hot liquid over them. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 24 hours. [NEXT "Garlic-Stuffed Tenderloin With Western Plaid Hash"]

Garlic-Stuffed Tenderloin With Western Plaid Hash
8 venison tenderloin fillets, about 4 oz. each
14 garlic cloves, unskinned
1 cup syrah wine
11⁄2 cups beef or game stock
2 cups peanut or vegetable oil
2 russet potatoes
1⁄2 cup olive oil
1/4 cup minced jalapeÂ¿Â¿o
1 cup red bell pepper, thinly sliced
1 cup red onion, thinly sliced
1 cup green cabbage, thinly sliced
1 cup red cabbage, thinly sliced
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

1. Roast the garlic: Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Put the cloves in a skillet or pan, sprinkle with olive oil, and roast for 20 to 25 minutes until lightly browned. The garlic should be creamy, sweet, and soft enough to squeeze out of the skins. Set aside to cool, and discard the skins. When the garlic is cool, make a small slit in the side of each fillet with a paring knife, and stuff one clove in each. This will leave six for use in the hash.

2. Meanwhile, make the sauce: Put 1/2 cup of the wine in a saucepan and bring to a boil. Allow the wine to boil until reduced by half, then add the beef stock. Let this mixture boil until reduced by half as well. Keep warm or reheat when ready to serve.

3. Make the hash: In a medium saucepan or deep skillet, heat the peanut or vegetable oil to 325 degrees. While it's heating, cut the potatoes into thin, 1/2-inch strips and rinse in cold water to remove some of the starch. Blot them dry with paper towels. When the oil is hot (check by dropping a potato strip in; it should sizzle aggressively), add the potatoes and cook, stirring frequently, for about 4 minutes, or until golden brown. Drain them on a paper towel, and season with salt and pepper. In another large skillet, heat 1/4 cup of the olive oil over high heat. Add the bell and jalapeÂ¿Â¿o peppers, onion, cabbage, and remaining roasted garlic. Cook, stirring, until the cabbage is wilted, then add the remaining wine.

4. Cook the venison: Make sure the oven is still at 350 degrees. Heat 1/4 cup olive oil over high heat in a large, ovenproof sautÂ¿Â¿ pan. Generously season the fillets with salt and pepper and sear them in the oil, for about 1 1/2 minutes per side. Transfer the pan to the oven for about 4 minutes, or until the meat is medium-rare. To serve, place some potatoes at the center of the plate, top with a dollop of the cabbage mixture, and top that with two fillets. Spoon some of the warmed sauce over the meat and serve. Serves 4. [NEXT "Seared Bone-In Rib Eye With Fried Artichokes & Mac-And-Cheese"]

Seared Bone-In Rib Eye With Fried Artichokes & Mac-And-Cheese
4 venison rib chops, double-cut, about 6 oz. each
1⁄2 cup Lonesome Dove game rub (recipe below)
11⁄3 cups orzo pasta, cooked, drained, and tossed with 1 Tbsp. olive oil
1⁄2 cup heavy cream
1 cup chicken stock or broth
1⁄2 cup Manchego cheese, shredded
4 artichoke hearts, quartered and soaked in 1 cup buttermilk
1 1⁄2 cups polenta
Oil, for frying
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Lonesome Dove Game Rub
1⁄4 cup chile powder
1⁄4 cup kosher salt
1 1⁄2 Tbsp. coarsely ground black pepper
2 Tbsp. ground cumin
1 Tbsp. finely chopped rosemary
1 Tbsp. thyme leaves
1 Tbsp. garlic powder
1 Tbsp. brown sugar

1. Take the chops out of the refrigerator 30 minutes prior to cooking. While they're coming to room temperature, make the mac-and-cheese: Simmer the cream and chicken stock together over medium heat. Add the orzo and cheese and stir for about 2 minutes, until the cheese is melted.

2. Make the artichokes: In a heavy pot, heat at least 2 inches of oil to 375 degrees. As it's heating, combine 1⁄4 cup of the game rub with the polenta. Remove the artichoke hearts from the buttermilk and dredge them in the polenta mixture. Fry the artichokes for 3 minutes, in batches if necessary, until golden brown, and drain on paper towels. Keep warm until ready to serve.

3. Preheat the oven to 375 degrees. Season the chops with salt and pepper and 1⁄4 cup of game rub. Coat the bottom of an ovenproof sautÂ¿Â¿ pan with a thin sheen of oil and place over high heat until almost smoking. Add the meat and sear quickly on both sides, about 30 seconds per side. Transfer the pan to the oven for about 6 minutes, or until the chops are medium-rare. Serves 4. [NEXT "Venison T-Bone"]

Venison T-Bone

Marinade:
1/2 cup olive oil
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/2 cup sherry
2 cloves of garlic, smashed
2 tablespoons of chopped fresh rosemary
1 tablespoon of chopped fresh mint
1 tablespoon of salt
1 teaspoon of black pepper
1 onion roughly chopped
juice of 1 lime

4 venison T-bone steaks
1 tablespoon of vegetable oil

Directions:
1. Marinate the steaks overnight in the refridgerator, or for at least 6 hours.

2. Remove from marinade, and allow them to come to room temperature.

3. Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat.

4. Dry the steaks with paper towels. When the oil in the pan begins to smoke, and drop the steaks into the pan.

5. Cook for about 4 minutes before flipping. Then cook for another 3 to 4 minutes, depending on the thickness of the steaks. Feel for doneness and remove the steaks when they are rare to medium rare.

6. Let the steaks rest for 5 minutes, covered with foil, before serving. [NEXT "The Rules"] The Rules
Don't be afraid to substitute venison in any beef recipe-as long as you follow these guidelines

1) When grilling or searing, shorten the cooking time. "A venison cut is going to be smaller than a beef cut," says Tim Love, "which means it's going to cook quicker. Reduce the cooking time so that you don't overdo it."

2) Remember the fat. Beef's fat marbling allows it to self-baste as it cooks. Venison lacks that feature. If you're roasting or braising venison, drape it with some bacon or pork fat to keep it moist, using a toothpick as needed to secure it.

3) Be a kinder, gentler cook. A hard boil will toughen beef but render venison almost inedible. "Be very careful about this," says Love. When roasting or braising, try to go lower and slower than you would with beef: a decreased roasting temperature, a lesover medium heat. Add the orzo and cheese and stir for about 2 minutes, until the cheese is melted.

Venison T-Bone

4 venison T-bone steaks
1 tablespoon of vegetable oil

Directions:
1. Marinate the steaks overnight in the refridgerator, or for at least 6 hours.

2. Remove from marinade, and allow them to come to room temperature.

3. Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat.

4. Dry the steaks with paper towels. When the oil in the pan begins to smoke, and drop the steaks into the pan.

5. Cook for about 4 minutes before flipping. Then cook for another 3 to 4 minutes, depending on the thickness of the steaks. Feel for doneness and remove the steaks when they are rare to medium rare.

6. Let the steaks rest for 5 minutes, covered with foil, before serving. [NEXT "The Rules"] The Rules
Don't be afraid to substitute venison in any beef recipe-as long as you follow these guidelines

Wild for Walleye

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 04:20:00 -0500

The Other Red Meat

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 30 Jan 2008 04:20:00 -0500

Braised & Barbecued Ribs With Homemade Pickles

2. Place in the oven; cook until very tender (as long as 8 hours).

3. Remove the ribs from the roasting pan and cool in the refrigerator overnight. Discard the cooking liquid.

Homemade Pickles
3 cucumbers, sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 cups red onion, thinly sliced
2 cups red bell pepper, thinly sliced
4 garlic cloves
4 serrano chiles

1. Combine all the pickling liquid ingredients together in a medium saucepan and boil for 3 minutes.

2. Mix the remaining ingredients in a bowl, and pour the hot liquid over them. Refrigerate, uncovered, for 24 hours. [NEXT "Garlic-Stuffed Tenderloin With Western Plaid Hash"]

Venison T-Bone

4 venison T-bone steaks
1 tablespoon of vegetable oil

Directions:
1. Marinate the steaks overnight in the refridgerator, or for at least 6 hours.

2. Remove from marinade, and allow them to come to room temperature.

3. Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat.

4. Dry the steaks with paper towels. When the oil in the pan begins to smoke, and drop the steaks into the pan.

5. Cook for about 4 minutes before flipping. Then cook for another 3 to 4 minutes, depending on the thickness of the steaks. Feel for doneness and remove the steaks when they are rare to medium rare.

6. Let the steaks rest for 5 minutes, covered with foil, before serving. [NEXT "The Rules"] The Rules
Don't be afraid to substitute venison in any beef recipe-as long as you follow these guidelines

Venison T-Bone

4 venison T-bone steaks
1 tablespoon of vegetable oil

Directions:
1. Marinate the steaks overnight in the refridgerator, or for at least 6 hours.

2. Remove from marinade, and allow them to come to room temperature.

3. Heat the oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat.

4. Dry the steaks with paper towels. When the oil in the pan begins to smoke, and drop the steaks into the pan.

5. Cook for about 4 minutes before flipping. Then cook for another 3 to 4 minutes, depending on the thickness of the steaks. Feel for doneness and remove the steaks when they are rare to medium rare.

6. Let the steaks rest for 5 minutes, covered with foil, before serving. [NEXT "The Rules"] The Rules
Don't be afraid to substitute venison in any beef recipe-as long as you follow these guidelines

Field & Stream Recipe: Trout with Guiness

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 28 Feb 2007 19:00:00 -0500

IRISH ANGLER'S PIE

SERVES 4

TIME 1 hour

DIFFICULTY Moderate

TOPPING

1½ pounds potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-inch pieces

¾ cup milk

3 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

FILLING

1 pound lake trout fillets (or fillets from any mild, flaky fish)

2 bay leaves

1 cup milk

1 cup Guinness

4 tablespoons butter

Jerry's Tips

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 28 Feb 2007 19:00:00 -0500

KEEP THE FLAVOR IN FROZEN GAME
Vacuum-seal bags are a great way to store frozen game and fish, but only if you know how to thaw the contents. You must poke a few small holes in the packaging first. This breaks the vacuum and permits normal defrosting to occur. If you do not release the seal, the juices will be sucked out of the food, leaving your fish or meat dry.

Wild Boar Chili Beans

fieldandstream-editor — Tue, 29 Aug 2006 05:30:00 -0400

This recipe is sure to spice up your picnic or BBQ this summer. Everyone is familiar with a good chili bean recipe, but when you throw a little wild boar into the mix, you'll have your guests talking about it for days.

WILD BOAR CHILI BEANS

5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 red onion, minced
1 clove garlic, minced
2 lbs. ground wild boar sausage
3 bell peppers, chopped
3 cups crushed tomatoes
3 cups kidney beans, cooked
1/2 cup tomato paste
pinch red pepper flakes
salt and pepper to taste

In a large pot, heat olive oil over medium-high heat. Add onions and sautÂ¿Â¿ until caramelized. Add garlic and sautÂ¿Â¿ about 1 minute. Remove from pan into bowl and set aside. Return pan to heat and add 1 tablespoon olive oil. SautÂ¿Â¿ bell peppers until tender. Remove from pan and add to bowl of onions. Return pan to heat and add boar sausage, sautÂ¿Â¿ until brown. Add onion mixture, and remaining ingredients. Lower heat to simmer.

You may need to add water to fully submerge the mixture in liquid. Let simmer for about 1 hour on low. Serve with a homemade skillet corn bread and you've got a meal to remember.

Wild Boar Chili Beans

fieldandstream-editor — Tue, 29 Aug 2006 05:30:00 -0400

How to Smoke-Roast a Wild Turkey with Maple-Pepper Glaze

fieldandstream-editor — Sun, 30 Apr 2006 20:00:00 -0400

BRINE

2 gallons water

1 cup salt

1 cup black pepper

1 cup brown sugar

TURKEY

1 wild turkey

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

½ cup pure maple syrup

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon bourbon (optional)

1. Brine the turkey: Mix the water, salt, pepper, and brown sugar together in a large pot. Place the turkey in the brine mixture and weigh it down to keep it submerged (an inverted dinner plate topped with a rock does the trick). Refrigerate overnight.

2. Prepare your grill: An hour before cooking, soak five big handfuls of hickory chips in water. Make two piles of charcoal at the sides of the grill, leaving enough open space so the bird won't be directly over the coals. Put a disposable aluminum pan in the center to catch any drips. Light the charcoal. When it's covered with ash, add the soaked wood chips.

3. Drain the turkey and pat it dry. Place it over the drip pan, breast-side up, and cover the grill. Keep the lid vents about halfway open.

4. Cook until the thigh meat registers 180 degrees on a meat thermometer, about 12 to 14 minutes per pound. After the first hour, baste it with half of the melted butter. Repeat an hour later, and also toss a handful more of charcoal on each pile. Once it's lit, add another handful of wood chips.

5. With roughly a half hour left to cook, make a maple glaze by combining the maple syrup, pepper, and bourbon. Brush it onto the turkey. (If the glaze starts to burn, loosely cover the bird with foil.) After you remove the turkey from the grill, let it rest for 15 minutes before carving.

The Ultimate Game Dinner

fieldandstream-editor — Thu, 19 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

Freezer Fatigue: It's that defeated feeling you get, come February or March, as you assess the contents of your deep freeze and wonder what the hell you're going to do with all those odds and ends. There's the Canada goose you killed in November that your family just couldn't finish. And those whitetail roasts that sank toward the bottom while the loin and sausage earned swift passage to the kitchen. Maybe some squirrels, or the single pheasant you shot and never got around to cooking. In short, a lot of everything and too little of anything. No need to sigh, however. In fact, now's the time to call a few pals and rev up the stove, because that hodgepodge of cuts can be the base for the perfect deep-winter meal designed to clean out your freezer, and to end the season with a belly-rubbing bang.

The three recipes here make use of any type of game and add intense seasonings to smooth out any freezer-scarred off flavors. Prepare all three as a complete game dinner, or try one recipe at a time. Either way, these dishes are the ultimate antidote to freezer fatigue: a celebration of the season's bounty, and a final toast to all those long days afield.

The Appetizer: Wild Game Ravioli
Fill these ravioli with whatever you have--venison, small game, upland birds, or waterfowl. Just be sure that it's ground or chopped finely enough that you can seal the pasta around it.

I've introduced many people to squirrel by sneaking it inside ravioli. They always demand seconds.

Total time: About 30 minutes, Serves: 8

Ingredients

1/2 pound wild game, ground or very finely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 scallions, finely chopped
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated, plus more for garnish
24 wonton wrappers
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
16 fresh sage leaves, chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

Directions
In a large skillet, heat the olive oil over medium heat and add the meat and scallions. Cook for about 10 minutes, until the meat is browned, then set it aside to cool in a large bowl. Mix in the egg and cheese and season with salt and pepper.

Lay the wonton squares on a sheet pan or pans. (Dusting the pan with cornstarch will prevent sticking.) Working swiftly, place a tablespoon or so of the meat filling on the center of each square. Using your fingers or a pastry brush, wet the edges of the squares with water, then fold them to form triangle shapes. Press the edges together tightly so that a solid seal forms. (Since brands of wonton wrappers differ in size, you may need to adjust the amount of filling to keep the edges clear.) Put the ravioli in the refrigerator or freezer until ready to cook.

Bring about 6 quarts of salted water to a boil. While it's heating, melt the butter in a large skillet or sautÂ¿Â¿ pan over high heat, until the foam subsides. Lower the heat to medium and add the sage leaves, and cook until the butter browns.

Cook the ravioli in the boiling water for about 3 minutes, or until they float. With a slotted spoon, transfer them to the pan with the browned butter and gently toss for about a minute. To serve, spoon the ravioli with some butter into a pasta bowl and top with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano to taste.

[NEXT "The Main Event: Venison Cassoulet"]

The Main Event: Venison Cassoulet
A wintry, crusted stew thick with meat, sausage, and white beans, cassoulet is often called the national dish of France, but don't let that scare you off. I prefer to think of it as beanie-weenies dressed up for a night on the town. This is also excellent with wild boar instead of venison.

Active time: 1 hour, total: 21/2 hours, serves 8

Ingredients

1 pound dried white beans, soaked for at least hours, or overnight, and drained
10 cups chicken stock or broth
2 ham hocks
11/2 cups chopped onion
1 tablespoon minced garlic, plus 1 teaspoon
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
11/2 pounds boneless venison, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup vegetable oil, or as needed
1/2 cup chopped celery
1/2 cup chopped carrot
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1 pound smoked sausage, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cups fine dried breadcrumbs
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 egg yolks
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Directions
In a large, heavy pot, combine the beans and ham hocks with 8 cups of chicken stock, 1/2 cup of chopped onion, 1 tablespoon of minced garlic, 1 tablespoon of thyme, and the bay leaves. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, until the beans are tender, 45 minutes to an hour. Skim any foam that pools on the surface. Drain and reserve the cooking liquid, and discard the bay leaves. When it's cool enough to handle, cut up the meat from the ham hocks and set it aside with the beans.

Preheat the oven to 375Â¿Â¿. Season the venison with salt and pepper and dredge in the flour, shaking off any excess. Reserve the flour. Heat the oil in a heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium-high heat, and brown the venison on all sides, about 5 minutes total. (You may need to do this in batches to avoid overcrowding the pan.) Transfer it to paper towels to drain and cool.

Cook the remaining onion and thyme with the celery, carrot, salt, and cayenne until the vegetables soften, about 4 minutes. Place the sausage and 1 teaspoon of garlic in the pot and cook for 2 minutes, giving it an occasional stir. Now add 1/4 cup of the reserved flour and stir constantly, for about 10 minutes, until the flour darkens to a butterscotch color. Whisk in the 2 cups of chicken stock and the reserved cooking liquid from the beans. Bring to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Combine evenly with the venison, the reserved meat from the ham hocks, and the beans. (At this point you can refrigerate it overnight if desired. Let it stand at room temperature for 30 minutes before baking.)

In a blender, pulse the breadcrumbs, melted butter, cheese, egg yolks, and salt and pepper until well blended. Spread the mixture over the cassoulet and bake until the crust is golden, about 35 minutes. Serve.

ONLINE BONUS STEP: An Optional Stew Step for Overachievers
Traditionally, cassoulet is served with duck or goose confit--waterfowl that's been slowly simmered in fat until the meat falls apart in rich, ultra-tender pieces. If you have extra ducks or geese in the deep freeze, this age-old French technique will put it to sublime use. Add the confit to the cassoulet when you add the browned venison, making sure to scrape off any congealed fat before you do.

Wild Confit

4 goose or duck legs
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons crushed black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 garlic cloves, crushed
3 pounds rendered duck or goose fat*

Put the goose or duck legs in a large bowl with the salt, peppercorns, bay leaves, thyme, and garlic. Mix well, coating the meat evenly, then cover the bowl and let marinate in the refrigerator for 24 hours, turning them two or three times. The next day, preheat the oven to 225Â¿Â¿ and bring the fat to a simmer in a large pot over medium heat. Add the marinated legs, cover with a tight-fitting lid, and place on the oven's middle shelf. Cook for 3 hours. Remove the duck legs from the pot and transfer them to an airtight storage container. Pour the fat over the legs, covering them completely, and let cool. Store, covered, in the refrigerator until ready to use.

*If you have enough waterfowl fat, you can render it yourself by slowly melting pieces of it over medium-low heat. You can also purchase rendered fat from 800-327-8246; dartagnan.com.

[NEXT "The Big Finale: Wild Game Mincemeat Cobbler with Cornmeal Crust"]

The Big Finale: Wild Game Mincemeat Cobbler with Cornmeal Crust
You rarely think of pie when you're cleaning your deer. But here is dessert for the seriously devoted carnivore. Ground or very finely chopped game gets stewed with apples, raisins, dried cherries, spices, and a few splashes of dark rum, then baked under a sweet and golden cornmeal crust.

Active Time: 20 minutes, Total: 3 hours, Makes: 1 cobbler

Ingredients
Filling:

2 cups apple cider or juice
1 cup dark seedless raisins
1/2 cup dried cherries or currants
11/2 cups chopped, peeled apples
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 pound ground or finely chopped venison or other wild game
3 tablespoons dark rum or brandy (optional)

Crust:

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/3 cup cornmeal
3 tablespoons sugar
11/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, chopped
2/3 cup heavy cream, plus 2 tablespoons

Directions:
In a heavy saucepan, combine the cider, raisins, and cherries. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to low and simmer, covered, for about 30 minutes. Add the apples, spices, and game. Simmer for 2 hours more, adding more cider or water if the mixture sticks. Set aside to cool.

In a large mixing bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, 2 tablespoons of sugar, baking powder, and salt. Work in the butter with your fingers until the mixture resembles coarse crumbs. With a spatula or wooden spoon, mix in 2/3 cup of the cream until the dough comes together just enough to be rolled into a ball. Knead it gently two or three times, then dust it with a bit of flour and place it on a floured surface. Roll it or pat it so that it approximates the shape of the pan you'll be cooking the cobbler in (e.g. a glass pie pan or square baking pan).

Preheat the oven to 350Â¿Â¿. Spoon the mincemeat mixture into the cobbler pan and, if using, splash with the rum. You can cut the dough into pieces of any size or shape for the crust, cobbling them together, or place the dough whole atop the mincemeat (if the latter, poke a few holes in it with a fork to vent steam). Lightly brush the top of the dough with the remaining 2 tablespoons of cream, and sprinkle on the remaining eady to use.

*If you have enough waterfowl fat, you can render it yourself by slowly melting pieces of it over medium-low heat. You can also purchase rendered fat from 800-327-8246; dartagnan.com.

[NEXT "The Big Finale: Wild Game Mincemeat Cobbler with Cornmeal Crust"]

Active Time: 20 minutes, Total: 3 hours, Makes: 1 cobbler

Ingredients
Filling:

2 cups apple cider or juice
1 cup dark seedless raisins
1/2 cup dried cherries or currants
11/2 cups chopped, peeled apples
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 pound ground or finely chopped venison or other wild game
3 tablespoons dark rum or brandy (optional)

Crust:

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/3 cup cornmeal
3 tablespoons sugar
11/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, chopped
2/3 cup heavy cream, plus 2 tablespoons

The Ultimate Game Dinner

fieldandstream-editor — Thu, 19 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

I've introduced many people to squirrel by sneaking it inside ravioli. They always demand seconds.

Total time: About 30 minutes, Serves: 8

Ingredients

1/2 pound wild game, ground or very finely chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 scallions, finely chopped
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/4 cup Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese, grated, plus more for garnish
24 wonton wrappers
1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter
16 fresh sage leaves, chopped
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

[NEXT "The Main Event: Venison Cassoulet"]

Active time: 1 hour, total: 21/2 hours, serves 8

Ingredients

1 pound dried white beans, soaked for at least hours, or overnight, and drained
10 cups chicken stock or broth
2 ham hocks
11/2 cups chopped onion
1 tablespoon minced garlic, plus 1 teaspoon
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
2 bay leaves
11/2 pounds boneless venison, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/4 cup vegetable oil, or as needed
1/2 cup chopped celery
1/2 cup chopped carrot
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1 pound smoked sausage, cut into 1-inch pieces
2 cups fine dried breadcrumbs
8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
2 egg yolks
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste

Wild Confit

4 goose or duck legs
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons crushed black peppercorns
2 bay leaves
4 sprigs fresh thyme
4 garlic cloves, crushed
3 pounds rendered duck or goose fat*

*If you have enough waterfowl fat, you can render it yourself by slowly melting pieces of it over medium-low heat. You can also purchase rendered fat from 800-327-8246; dartagnan.com.

[NEXT "The Big Finale: Wild Game Mincemeat Cobbler with Cornmeal Crust"]

Active Time: 20 minutes, Total: 3 hours, Makes: 1 cobbler

Ingredients
Filling:

2 cups apple cider or juice
1 cup dark seedless raisins
1/2 cup dried cherries or currants
11/2 cups chopped, peeled apples
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 pound ground or finely chopped venison or other wild game
3 tablespoons dark rum or brandy (optional)

Crust:

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/3 cup cornmeal
3 tablespoons sugar
11/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, chopped
2/3 cup heavy cream, plus 2 tablespoons

*If you have enough waterfowl fat, you can render it yourself by slowly melting pieces of it over medium-low heat. You can also purchase rendered fat from 800-327-8246; dartagnan.com.

[NEXT "The Big Finale: Wild Game Mincemeat Cobbler with Cornmeal Crust"]

Active Time: 20 minutes, Total: 3 hours, Makes: 1 cobbler

Ingredients
Filling:

2 cups apple cider or juice
1 cup dark seedless raisins
1/2 cup dried cherries or currants
11/2 cups chopped, peeled apples
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cloves
1 teaspoon ground ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/4 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 pound ground or finely chopped venison or other wild game
3 tablespoons dark rum or brandy (optional)

Crust:

1 cup all-purpose flour
1/3 cup cornmeal
3 tablespoons sugar
11/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
5 tablespoons cold unsalted butter, chopped
2/3 cup heavy cream, plus 2 tablespoons

Pan Seared Halibut with Peach Compote

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

This is a fresh and light entrÂ¿Â¿e you can serve quickly and elegantly. If the halibut is at its freshest, and the peaches you choose for cooking are wonderfully sweet, the contrast of these flavors will be delightful for such a simple to do recipe.

PAN SEARED HALIBUT WITH SUMMER FRESH PEACH COMPOTE

2 8 ounce fresh halibut filets
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 medium size fresh peaches, cleaned, diced
3 tablespoons peach preserve
juice of 1 lemon
salt and pepper to taste
fresh sprigs of parsley for garnish
fresh lemon wedges

Prepare halibut by seasoning with salt and pepper. Melt the butter in a medium size sautÂ¿Â¿ pan over medium-high heat. When the butter begins to sizzle, add diced peaches and sautÂ¿Â¿ for a minute or two. Add the peach preserve, lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Combine and sautÂ¿Â¿ together for about two more minutes or until hot. Remove from heat and set aside in a bowl to keep warm.

Heat the oil over medium-high heat in a medium size sautÂ¿Â¿ pan. The oil should be nice and hot; be careful not to burn it. Place the halibut filets, skin side up, into the pan. Let the filets pick up a nice golden crispy appearance before turning over.

Cook approximately seven to eight minutes or until fish is cooked, but not dried out.

Remove skin before service and place fish on plates with the nice golden side up. Spoon the peach compote over the top and garnish with a fresh sprig of parsley and a fresh lemon wedge.

Deer: Hang Time

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

There are some persistent myths about aging venison that may cause you to stock your freezer with inferior meat this season. I'm sure you've heard them: Deer meat can't be aged like beef, because it dries out if left hanging. Or: Aging is simply "controlled rot," and why let good venison rot? And: You only need to hang deer a day or two for tender meat, so any longer is a waste of time.

None of this is true. To understand why, and to find out the best methods to age venison, we have to turn to science.

A Chemistry Lesson
Despite its different taste and lower levels of fat, venison is very similar to beef. It contains the same basic enzymes, particularly lactic acid, and goes through similar changes after the animal dies.

First, the muscles go into rigor mortis, a stiffening lasting at most 24 hours. Butchering a deer during rigor mortis is one of the worst things you can do. It can cause a phenomenon called shortening, where the muscles contract and remain tougher than if butchering took place a day later.

Proper aging begins as soon as rigor mortis ends-and this process is definitely not controlled rot. Rot is zillions of bacteria eating the muscle cells, their waste products creating the familiar stench of decaying flesh. Bacteria attack only after meat is exposed to the air, and bacterial rot is accelerated by higher temperatures. It doesn't happen at all if the meat is frozen. To properly age your deer, you must keep it at temperatures above freezing and below about 40 degrees. This holds bacteria (and rot) at bay, allowing natural enzymes to do their work.

Venison, Restaurants, and Supermodels
Meat is made up of long muscle cells connected by a fairly tough substance called collagen (the same stuff plastic surgeons inject into the lips of supermodels to make those lips full and "pouty"). Collagen causes most meat toughness. Young animals have little of it between their muscle cells, but as an animal gets older, more develops. Natural enzymes break down this intercellular collagen as meat is aged, so the longer it hangs, the more tender it becomes. (Commercial meat tenderizers, such as papaya juice, do the same job-but natural aging is more flavorful.) This is why beef served in fine restaurants is aged a couple of weeks or more. It's also the reason a prime restaurant T-bone costs so much; it takes money to cool a large aging room.

Supermarket beef is aged perhaps two to three days. This isn't bad, since beef-or a deer-hung that long does age slightly. But neither becomes as tender or flavorful as after a week or more.

Aging at Home
Maintaining a consistent temperature is the main problem with home-aging venison. I live in Montana, where outside temperatures during the firearms season normally range from around 20 at night to 40 during the day. My garage provides some protection against cold and sunlight, so deer that I hang there won't usually warm to more than 40 degrees and won't freeze at night. If your weather isn't ideal, you can home-age venison in a spare refrigerator. Skin the quarters and bone-out other large sections of meat. The quarters from a typical deer (or even two) will fit in an average-size refrigerator.

Young deer don't have much collagen, so aging for a couple of days is plenty. Older bucks benefit most from the extended period, and many hunters who do it properly actually prefer the taste of mature bucks. After aging, the steaks are as tender as a young doe's-but with a rich flavor reminiscent of the best restaurant beef.

F&S Cooking: Salmon Ceviche

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

This recipe is a nice change and a refreshing alternative to standard fish preparation. This version of the recipe is a bit on the mild side. When I am preparing it for myself or guests, I spice things up a bit by using a little more jalapeno pepper. You can add more as an option. Don't be afraid to put a little more spice in your life. You may find it gives the dish that extra kick!

SALMON CEVICHE
1 6 ounce salmon filet, raw, cubed into bite size pieces
1 small jalapeno pepper, diced small
1 small yellow onion, diced small
1 clove garlic, minced
1/2 cup Cilantro, finely chopped
2 ripe roma tomatoes, diced
juice of 3 ripe, juicy lemons, and 1 lime
pinch of sea salt
Combine all ingredients in a medium-size bowl. Refrigerate at least 30 minutes or until the salmon becomes an opaque color. The fresh citrus juices will cook the fish in this dish. The absolute freshest salmon will produce the best flavor.

Serve with your favorite tortilla chips on the side or double the recipe and serve it as tostada garnished with wedges of fresh avocado.

No Bones About It

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

Many people avoid filleting panfish because of their diminutive size, but a big bluegill can provide two boneless chunks of sweet meat worthy of the effort.

Today, many people use electric knives to fillet and skin fish. Starting at the head, they cut through the rib cage down along the backbone and out the tail. Then they trim the rib bones. That method works but wastes too much meat on a small panfish. Try this way instead.

Here's How
1) Scale the fish (if you won't be skinning it) then place it on a flat surface.

2) Make a shallow incision across the fish from back to belly just behind the pectoral fins, down to the backbone.

3) With the knife blade parallel to the surface, make another shallow incision along the back of the fish, just above the dorsal fin. Cut to the tail.

4) Starting where the incisions intersect near the head, use your thumb to lift meat off the bones, almost like peeling an orange. Continue lifting and peeling, using your knife to free the meat.

5) From back to belly, pull the meat from the rib cage, slicing through the belly skin to free the fillet from the ribs.

6) Hold the knife flat and cut toward the tail until the fillet separates completely from the skeleton.

7) Skin the fillet, if desired, by placing it skin-side down. Press a corner of the skin against the surface, and work the blade between the meat and skin.

Twice-Drunk Walleye

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

Ice fishing shanties tend to fill up with two things: fish and beer. (Though sometimes, it's true, one outweighs the other.) Here's a way to funnel those two classic ingredients of shanty life into one satisfying and hops-scented meal this winter-strips of walleye fried in beer batter and served with a beer-based dipping sauce. Any firm-fleshed, coldwater fish, such as walleye and pike, will work well here.

1 tablespoon butter

1/4 cup onion, minced

1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes

1/2 teaspoon dry mustard

1/4 teaspoon paprika

1/4 cup apple cider vinegar

1/2 cup chicken stock

1 12-ounce bottle beer plus 1/2 cup beer

1 tablespoon sugar

1 teaspoon cornstarch

1 pound walleye fillets, cut into finger-size segments

3/4 cup flour

Salt and pepper to taste

Oil for frying

Heat the butter over medium-high heat. Add the onion and red pepper flakes. SautÂ¿Â¿ until the onion is translucent and soft, about 6 to 8 minutes. Add 1/4 teaspoon of the dry mustard, the paprika, the vinegar, chicken stock, 12 ounces of beer, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook until reduced by two-thirds. Add the sugar and cook for 1 more minute. Using a fork or whisk, mix the cornstarch with a teaspoon of cold water; add it to the sauce and stir until thickened. Set aside.

In a fryer or deep pan, heat the oil to 375 degrees. Combine the flour, salt and pepper, and the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of mustard and 1/2 cup of beer until you have a pancake-like batter. Dip the fish in the batter and fry, in batches, until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. Drain it on paper towels and serve immediately, using the sauce for dipping.

Elk Medallions with Roasted Shallots

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

This recipe works well with either elk or venison. If you are caught without any game but are still tempted to try this recipe, I recommend a thick rib eye steak as a substitution.

This recipe is quick and simple. The trick to making a simple dish extraordinary is to use extraordinary ingredients. I use Corfino, (a perfect extra virgin olive oil for game cooking) fragrant balsamic vinegar, and the freshest herbs and shallots available. Of course, fresh ground pepper always makes a difference when seasoning your meat. Enjoy!

ELK MEDALLIONS WITH ROASTED SHALLOTS AND BALSAMIC REDUCTION

Serves 2

4 4-6 ounces elk medallions
1 cup extra virgin olive oil (or enough to submerge shallots in a small sauce pan)
4 shallots, peeled and quartered
1 cup balsamic vinegar
1 tablespoon, finely chopped Italian flat-leaf parsley
fresh ground pepper and salt, season to taste

Rub elk medallions with 1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil. Season elk with salt and pepper and set aside. Fire up grill.

Place shallots in a small sauce pan and add enough extra virgin olive oil to cover the shallots. Bring to a light simmer and cook until tender and golden brown. Remove from heat and keep warm.

Pour vinegar into another small sauce pan and heat over med-high heat. When vinegar comes to a light simmer, pay close attention and remove from heat as soon as it is reduced about by 1/2. Reserve.

Place elk medallions on the grill when it is nice and hot. Grill meat until it is just about medium rare. Over cooking the meat will cause it to become dry and tough. Keeping the meat under medium, in my opinion, is an important part of this recipe. Remove when they have reached desired temperature.

Place medallions on a plate and top with shallots. Drizzle over small droplets of the vinegar and garnish by sprinkling with chopped parsley.

Every bite will be contrasting, interesting, and delicious!!

Bicentennial Buffet

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

July 5 marks the 200th anniversary of the departure of the Lewis and Clark expedition-a perfect excuse for a shindig. As for the menu, we recommend fish and game. With the recent release of The Lewis & Clark Cookbook by Leslie Mansfield (Ten Speed Press, 800-841-2665), you can make the meal historically accurate.

There are many choices. The corps commonly dined on elk, antelope, bison, bear, bighorn sheep, duck, goose, grouse, trout, and salmon (not to mention crow, coyote, gopher, turtle, and dog-purchased from Indians). But for the sake of availability (and Fido's well-being), we offer the following recipe for venison, taken from Mansfield's book. To be truly historically accurate, serve each guest 9 pounds of meat. That's the amount each man in the expedition ate daily, when meat was at hand. Venison Shanks Braised with Fennel and Onions

Ingredients:
6 venison shanks (front shoulder steaks)
salt and pepper
3/4 cup dry red wine
3 cups beef stock
2/3 cup red currant jelly
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
3 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 teaspoon each marjoram, oregano, rosemary, sage, and thyme
2 bulbs fennel, quartered
1 onion, quartered
2 carrots, sliced

Season shanks with salt and pepper. In a large Dutch oven, thoroughly brown them in olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the wine, scraping up any browned bits. Add the beef stock, red currant jelly, red wine vinegar, garlic, and herbs. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer for 11/2 hours. Then add the fennel, onion, and carrots. Cover and simmer for 45 minutes longer. Move the venison and vegetables to a platter, leaving the broth in the pot. Increase heat to medium-high and reduce the broth until it has the consistency of a sauce. Skim off any fat, pour sauce over the venison and vegetables, and serve.

Tender Mercies: The Perfect Venison Dinner

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

I remember my first bite of deer meat. It was a California forkhorn mule deer, and I thought it was going to be delicious and tender. What appeared on my plate was a boiled, gray chunk with suspicious-looking brown flecks on it. "Coffee grounds," my hostess explained. "you can't just cook deer steaks. They're too tough. You have to boil them all day in coffee grounds." I can't tell you what it tasted like-I've wiped it out of my memory. But she was wrong about the coffee grounds: that steak was the toughest thing I'd ever tried to eatÂ¿Â¿Â¿until last fall in North Dakota.

I'd been hunting whitetail deer all day and was looking forward to someone else's cooking. The cook came in with a tray loaded down with steaks. He started serving them up, warning as he went from plate to plate that if they weren't done enough he could cook them some more. "The barbecue's still going," he threatened. Six steaks, six plates: It was the first time I'd ever heard steaks go clank.

Those are the only two gut-wrenching venison encounters in my life. The trouble is the scene is repeated over and over all across the country. First deer or last deer, you've done all that work to fill the freezer; then you cook your first steak-and it's tough. Can't grill it. Can't broil it. Definitely can't chew it. What's the matter with deer steaks?

In the first place, don't compare deer steak to beefsteak: It's like comparing wheat with nectarines. That T-bone you order at the restaurant is tenderloin and backstrap; deer steaks are usually cut from the round-much lower down on the animal, and thus less tender. The steer was fed grain for several weeks. Your deer? He's eating catch-as-catch-can-and if you took him in the rut, he may not be eating at all. Oh, and how thick did you cut your deer steak? Your beefsteak was cut 2 to 3 inches thick (two to three times the thickness of most deer steaks). It's a simple fact of kitchen chemistry that a thicker cut of meat stays moister longer when cooked.

In short, if you are harboring the delusion that when you throw that deer steak on the grill it's going to come out like beef, forget it.

But that doesn't mean it has to be terrible...or tough. If you have a mature deer, male or female, age it five to seven days at 35 to 45 degrees. This breaks down collagen (the fiber between the cells) and is the most common way good steak houses tenderize beef.

In my own kitchen, I've had only one deer that was tough no matter how I cooked it, and that's out of about five deer a year for 18-plus years, with at least one trophy-caliber buck each year. The one tough deer was another forkhorn muley buck, taken in a late-season cold snap that froze the carcass within 24 hours of the shot. But that was an unusual circumstance: We don't usually hunt at 23 degrees below zero.

If your steaks are tough, even after aging, then you're either cutting them wrong or you're cooking them wrong. You need to start thinking of deer steaks as more like skinless chicken breast (not in flavor, but in fat content) and less like coddled beef. And follow the four basic steps at right.

But be sure to relax. Deer steak is its own reward, as long as you don't expect it to be something it's not. Following are some recipes from people who have cooked a lot of venison.

--Eileen Clarke (Choice) Cut and Run
Years ago, early in my deer hunting career, I bagged an 8-point buck on a South Texas ranch. A leathery wrangler offered to skin and butcher the field-dressed deer in exchange for "some of the meat."

My venison needs were modest, and a celebratory drink around the fire pit sounded more inviting than an hour or so with knives and saws in the barn, so I accepted the trade-out.

"How about if I save for you the backstraps-the best part, you know-and I'll take all the rest," he said, hunter to hunter.

"No prroblem," I replied, hunter to hunter.

The next morning, I found two neatly sliced straps folded in a plastic bag in the walk-in cooler. I collected the venison and the tagged antlers and drove back to Houston.

I related the story to a good friend who has many years of deer hunting experience. "What about the tenders?" he asked.

"The who?"

"The tenders-the fillets. You know, like the filet mignon with beef."

I, like many rookie hunters, assumed that backstraps and tenders were the same cut. The two straps, which run parallel to the backbone on the outside of the carcass, are indeed excellent meat, but the twin delicate tenders inside the cavity at the base of the hindquarters are choicest of all cuts.

Each slender tender on a whitetail deer is a foot or so in length, with perhaps the diameter of a silver dollar. Properly grilled and cut with a fork, a tender could make a venison lover out of a PETA supporter-assuming you don't let some camo-clad slick talk you out of them.

--Joe Doggett

F&S Cooking: Skillet Breakfast

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

This is a great camp recipe for early mornings. It goes great with a strong cup of cowboy coffee. A well-seasoned cast iron skillet is key here in a quick and easy preparation to the venison steaks. If you like, use the residual seasoned crumbs and oil in the skillet to make a good country gravy for homemade biscuits.

SKILLET BREAKFAST
Serves 4

8, 2 to 3 ounce thinly cut venison steaks
1 cup egg wash
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup fine bread crumbs (with Italian seasonings)
1 cup butter
2 garlic cloves minced
2 tablespoons Italian flat leaf parsley, minced
salt and pepper to taste

In a small saucepan melt the butter, add garlic and parsley. SautÂ¿Â¿ 1 minute. Set aside and keep warm.

Dip the thinly cut venison steaks in the egg wash. Cover both sides with the seasoned breadcrumbs and salt and pepper. Heat the oil in a cast iron skillet over medium-high heat. Quickly cook the venison steaks until coating is golden, but steaks are not over cooked. You want to prevent them from being too dry.

Remove steaks from pan. Drizzle a little garlic butter over the top of the steaks. Finish off breakfast with a couple of eggs cooked to order, home fries, biscuits and gravy. Looks like you may need a nap before the hunt!

The Venison Master

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

He doesn't know much about sitting on stand for five hours, but Chef Daniel Boulud knows everything there is to know about cooking venison. Miles and miles from your favorite hunting ground, Boulud prepares one of the finest plates of venison you'll find in the world. But he says you don't need to come to one of his New York restaurants and pay $82 for a meal this good. You have what you need right in your freezer-assuming you're a good shot.

"The most important thing about cooking game is not the sort of avant-garde discovery of taste," he says. "It's more about getting back, deep down into the very basic, classical flavor. The key is balance."

Coming from a three-generation family of chefs in a country village near Lyon, France, he has a deep appreciation for working with the land and sharing its rewards with others.

"For me, it's something you can give your friends-an offering you can make," he explains. "It's nice to think when someone shoots a deer: Who would I like to share this with?"

Boulud suggests never cooking your venison past medium rare; the key to the best texture is letting the deer age for at least a week. And a good marinade for preparing the meal will ensure that the meat stays tender and is full of flavor. At his flagship restaurant, Daniel, the chef uses this marinade for his chestnut-crusted venison:

2 to 4 pounds venison
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
1/2 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/4 teaspoon ground star anise
1/4 teaspoon black peppercorns
pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
2 cloves garlic, peeled and crushed
1 sprig thyme

Boulud serves farm-raised venison loin in his restaurant but tells me he would not change a thing for wild deer, and he uses this recipe for all cuts, from leg to loin. Blending the earthy flavors of chestnuts with the meat, he says, adds a rich fall- and winter-harvest accent. Preparation is key: Start with 3/4 pound of peeled chestnuts, break into smaller pieces, and spread onto a baking sheet. Age the nuts overnight in a warm place. Pulse into 1/4-inch chunks in a food processor; discard smaller pieces and any powder. After marinating your venison for at least 4 hours, pat dry and season with salt and pepper. Beat one large egg in a large bowl. Dust venison with flour; dip it through the egg; and firmly press the chestnut pieces around the meat, covering thoroughly. Cook in a preheated 425-degree oven to your liking, or until the chestnuts are a deep, golden brown.

And finally, in keeping with his French heritage-always knowing the perfect wine-Boulud urges you to complement the dish with the oldest Rioja wine you can find.

Pan Seared Quail with Roasted Pepper Puree

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

The delicious flavor of quail blended with the sweetness and aromatic flavors of the roasted peppers make this the perfect dish as an appetizer or entr&eacutee. I always enjoy serving this with a glass of Pinot Noir. Try it and see what you think. PAN SEARED QUAIL WITH ROASTED PEPPER PUREE
2 dinner or 4 appetizer servings

4 whole quail, cleaned
3 /4 cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon shallot, chopped fine
2 cloves garlic, chopped fine
2 small sprigs of thyme, leaves only
pinch crushed red pepper flakes (adjust heat to your desire)
4 red bell peppers, roasted, skinned and cleaned
2 tablespoons Italian flat leaf parsley, chopped
salt and pepper to taste
2 handfulls watercress

Heat 1/ 2 cup olive oil in a large skillet. Season quail with salt and pepper and place in pan. Brown quail on both sides about 4 to 5 minutes each. When they are golden brown, remove pan from stovetop and place into preheated oven at 350 degrees for approximately 8 to10 minutes.

Heat 1 /4 cup olive oil in a medium sized skillet over medium heat. Saut&Â¿Â¿acute shallots for about 1 minute. Add garlic, thyme and red pepper flakes. Saut&Â¿Â¿acute about 1 more minute. Add roasted red bell peppers and parsley. Stir and remove from heat. Puree in a blender or kitchen processor. Season with salt and pepper.

Remove quail from oven. Serve over a bed of watercress accompanied by the roasted pepper puree.

The Irreplaceable Iron Skillet

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500

The bush plane had just disappeared over the treeline, not to return for a week, when I discovered the outpost camp bare of useful cookware. There was only detritus: remnants of Boy Scout mess kits, flaking Teflon fry pans, and pitted aluminum pots-good for burning food, not cooking it. But all was not lost. Hanging on the wall was a big, blackened, oiled iron skillet. It was the only utensil in camp that had been accorded such a high place. With good reason: It's made for campfire cooking. A cast-iron skillet is heavy (a 10-inch skillet weighs 5 pounds) and thick-walled (3/16 inch). It is built to tame the extreme temperatures of open flames and red-hot coals. It heats evenly (no hotspots or scorching) and holds a steady cooking temperature for a long time, something steel and aluminum cookware don't do. Forged to "take the heat," it won't warp like stainless steel or burn through like thin aluminum. Indeed, making the most of open fires is an iron skillet's pedigree and purpose.

It'll cook anything. For frying, braising, or sautÂ¿Â¿ing, there's no finer (nor more forgiving) pan for a campfire cook. A medium-size skillet (10 inches in diameter, 2 inches deep) will easily boil a quart of soup, sauce, or stew. A deep skillet (3 inches) will deep-fry, poach, or steam pretty much whatever you like. With a pie tin and aluminum foil, it also makes a very serviceable bake oven. Evenly sprinkle some pebbles in the skillet, set the pie tin (filled with cornbread, biscuits, scalloped potatoes, or cookie dough) on top, cover tightly with foil, and place the skillet on hot coals.

It improves with age. The more an iron skillet is "seasoned" and used, the better it gets. Proper seasoning turns it black and forms a durable, protective carbon coating that prevents sticking and burning, stops rust, and imparts a wonderful flavor.

The initial, three-step seasoning process is easy. First, with a paper towel, lightly wipe a thin coat of vegetable oil or shortening (not butter or margarine; see "Dos and Don'ts") on the skillet. Second, put it in a 350-degree oven for one hour. Third, remove carefully (it'll be smoking hot), let cool, dry, and wipe it again with a coating of oil. After each use, just clean (see "Dos and Don'ts") and give it another thin coat of oil or shortening.

Why season an iron skillet? When molten iron is cast (poured into a mold) and cools, air bubbles leave microscopic pores in its surface. Unseasoned, those pores are an iron skillet's Achilles' heel; the gateway to corrosion, rust, and hotspots. An application of vegetable oil fills the pores. At high heat, the oil carbonizes (blackens) to form a very tough, nonstick, rust-free, and practically wash-free protective coating.

It's economical and will outlive you. Cast-iron cookware is a bargain. A new 10-inch skillet costs only about $10. Properly cared for, it'll outlive you and your great-grandchildren.

It's been on camp lists forever. On his long hunts, Daniel Boone took along an iron "spider," a three-legged, long-handled skillet. On his Maine canoe treks (cooking for three), Thoreau took only two pieces of cookware: a 4-quart tin kettle for brewing tea and an iron frying pan for everything else. Emigrants following the California and Oregon Trails were advised that every party carry at least "one frying pan of wrought iron."

Part of the reason is durability: Cast iron is hard, nonmalleable, and except for rust, all but indestructible-ideal for life in the bush. Mostly though, it was sheer culinary practicality: No one piece of cookware did so much, so well, with minimum maintenance. That's still true today.

1. To season a skillet: First, use paper towel to apply a thin layer of vegetable oil or shortening.

2. Then place the skillet in a 350-degree oven for abouut one hour.

3. Remove from oven, let cool, and wipe again with oil or shortening. The skillet is ready to use.

Pan Seared Halibut with Peach Compote

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 11 Jan 2006 04:05:00 -0500