Looked up the pattern on Umpqua, doesn't look too hard to tie. The hooks are Tiemco, 200r size 4 for the main hook, 2457 size 8 for the stinger. Loop the 2487 onto a stout piece of mono(say 12 lb test or so)and lash the mono to the 200r. Use a thread like 3/0 or G, or something like kevlar or gel spun so you can really tighten up on the mono. Then I'd coat the wraps with super glue or head cement and let it dry. Then, near as I can tell, the body looks like chenille or dubbing, perhaps a tinsel rib too. I'm guessing the underwing is marabou with a bucktail topping, then a collar and head of spun deer hair. If you're feeling saucy you could throw in some krystal flash or flashabou in the wing to give it some shine. Again, this only a guess, but I hope this helps. Have fun!

I tie a lot of Galloup style articulated streamers and they are the bomb. I think the Hazel Muddler just has the stinger for "short strikers" or to increase hook-ups when swinging the fly. I use the mono for the connection simply because I have a lot of it, but when fishing for steel, using wire might not be a bad idea. You could weight it with either lead or a cone head if you wanted-you could even throw in some dumbell eyes clouser style if you want to get it deeper yet. The way I see it, the rules of fly tying is...there are no rules! Let us know how it turns out for ya.

And a tip when tying muddler heads for steelhead...don't be concerned about "Packing" your deer hair head so tight, and giving it a good appearance like a trout fly muddler. If there is some space between the hairs all the better. The head will attract the tiny, air bubbles that glisten like tiny diamonds in the water.

It is harder on my arm cast after cast then it is overloading the rod. On the back of the 24' specialty line...what it is is a 24" sinktip attached to a level 3 running line. Guys have made them up, but I don't like making a connection, and having all the chatter go through my guides. There will be quite a variable listed for the wt. rod you can use with the grain wt. It will span 3 rod wts. You really do not cast the line like you would a dryline. It is strip in until you see the color change..allow about 3 ft of overhang of the dry running line, take it back smooth, and not agressive, and then the forward cast...no snapping it back on the backcast. But you may have corrected me. I have a faster action 7 wt. but probably used the 300, on my 8, and 9 wt. rod last using it in Alaska for Salmon. The wt. doesn't need to match up with the normal wt. of a wt. forward, or DT line. But there will be a sweet spot, and I found it to be the line wt. suggested for the middle wt rod listed. If they say for a 5wt,6, and 7wt. it will cast nicely with a 6 wt. But, I have a 175 grain, 225 grain, and a 300. and now living in Idaho throw the 225 on my 9.5 length 7wt as a streamer setup, and it does the job with the line tracking nicely, no flopping around like a 10 ft. sinktip might, and dangerous with someone near you. One pickup, and launch it, no false casting....down and dirty.

Yes, the higher grain wt. sinks faster, and as I mentioned, too fast for me for the steelhead water I fish when I use the 300 grain. I'd have to cast more down, and across, and not mend as much, or as big as I normally do to keep it from hanging up. What is tiring is the grain wt. out past the rod tip of a longer rod on your arm. It's a leverage thing, and gets to my arm after making a lot of casts. They make a 400 grain wt. as well for fast, deep water, and Kings especially holding deep.,,no fun casting it. What I think happens, is bait guys will locate fish and catch them in very fast, deep water. They can use a lot of wt , and have the advantage of the thinner mono to get the lure down deep quick. I just do not consider that fly water, and will look for fish in water I consider to be fly fishing water without trying to do it with a lot of lead on the shank of the fly, and heavy dumb bell eyes..but there are fly guys that sure do it.

Silvers are the AK fish to go after! They school off the end of sandbars in quiet water off the main current, and you can catch them on a dry line, and stripping a fly on the surface. I would see the wake coming as a big silver would charge the fly. We used flies with nothing but orange, or red thread that colored t he hook shank. All t he material was off the back of the hook..Marabou, hackle feathers, some flashabou in it then collared with a schlappen feather. Lefty Deceiver style salt water patterns. They'd run, jump, and are also very good eating salmon. It's the size for one that make them good table fair. Just the right length, and meat thickness for the barbaque.