Trout Fishing
Anyone tie their own leaders? I've been reading about it lately and think this is a skill that would dramatically alter my success, and casting ability. Fishing on spring creeks in IA, I generally start the day fishing streams, switch to nymphs mid-morning, terrestrials in the afternoon, then surface flies in the evening. In order to effectively present the fly (which I'm certain I've not been achieving) a different leader should almost be used with each. I'm curious if any of the more experienced guys out there do this, what their recipes are, how they store them, do they use loops to connect it to fly line or nail knots.
I use them, and have for years.(made up leaders) I had lots of mono material in manufacturing a leader/lure. Basically it is not that critical that you get things exact given the modern graphite rods. I wouldn't use a formula, and there are many, many formulas, that has a lot of breakdowns...butt material, several diameter changes, then an 8",8" 8", 8" etc. That is not necessary. Mine turnover fine, and I go with about a 1/3 of the leader the butt piece length, and 1/3 the tippet. Actually my tippet is slightly less than that.( 10' leaders) For the butt I start with say 3-4 ft of .021 mono, followed by a 16" piece of .018, then 12" of .015 then 12" of .013 then 10-12" a length that will work with whatever tippet I use for that leader. If it is 1x I will tie the length right to the .013. If it is 4x, or 5x I tie in a 10 to 12" piece of .009, and then the tippet. I use nail knots on the line end, and lately have used a loop having learned how to weld a small loop in the end of my flyline using clear heat shrink, and shrinking it, and welding the flyline coating using a candle. I did this because I bought several furled mono leaders that I only have to tie a tippet to. I got a deal on them last year at our big fly tying Expo from an exhibitor, and realy liked how they turned over, and they are made with the small looped butt. I don't like a big loop in the end of my flyline, but can now take a line that has no loop, and make a small looped end. And here is a new add on that I really like. The weakest connection is the tippet to leader connection usually. Doesn't happen to me on fish, but get hung up in the bushes, and the tippet knot often breaks before the tippet to fly knot. SOOOO, I tried these tippet "O" rings...metal rings that are about the size I typed. They come in different lb tests 15 lbs beign the smallest, and 30 lbs the biggest. I like them. YOu don't have to match up your leader to tippet diameter as exactly. I end the leader at the small "O" ring with 0X, and an then tie on virtually any tippet with a clinch knot. They cause no sinking problems, or visibility problems. I got them through FeatherCraft co. I go through phases doing it one way,and then change for just change sake. I have 17 rods all with reels and lines on them, and set up for different uses so my leaders are tapered near the end somewhat differently on a number of them to accomodate the tippet size, and use for a particular rod, but the "O" ring concept has standardized a few of the rods. I have 4 rods now with the mono furled leader, and tippet ring on them. I am not saying by any means my system is the best, just what I have used over the years. I'm sure you undestand what I mean when I get to .013 and want a 5x tippet. You sure shouldn't tie .013 to .006. I need another piece in there, and use a 10-12" piece of say 2x, or .009. What I want is the last short section to be at least 10" long so when I change a tippet, I don't use up that tapered piece by having it just 8" say. I use a blood knot connection because I can tie it with less than a 1/2" of leader to trim off after tying the knot. If you use the surgeons knot that does connect uneven diameters with a stronger knot you have too much left over to trim off. But the "O" ring solves all of that. If you do buy these "O" rings, I have a tip I an give you.
And here is what I would do if I didn't want to get into a lot of different diameter mono's....I'd buy a commercial leader of 7.5 feet, or do they come 7 ft.?, and buy it in say 1X if I wasn't going to use a tippet bigger than 2X. Buy it with that in mind. It could be a 7ft. 2x if no tippets used bigger than 3X. Then I would cut tje tippet back by about 6-8" to make for better turnover, tie on a tippet ring, and then my tippet to the ring flouro, or mono. This should last you a season given no accidents other than a normal tippet breakoff. If I had two rods, a small fly setup, and a bigger dryfly/streamer setup, I'd be in the chips for whatever freshwater trout fishing I'd be doing. I often fish out of a driftboat, and will have the back of my boat serving as a golf club bag with 5 rods setup prior with different flies on them..small fly, streamer, nymph, softhackle, big, bushy dry ready to go. I end up using two out of the 5 on most days, and often just a big bushy dry if fishing remains good.
That is a pretty good idea. I will look into the tippet rings. That would make it easy to from a stout tippet for my zonker to a light tippet(s) for a midge. Too often I try to turn over a zonker with a 4x and it is a pain and ends up getting my fly stuck in the trees more often than in a drift.
And often I attach a tippet to a too big of diameter mono end. Creates a weak knot using a blood knot. You should make a wrap, or two more with the smaller diameter tippet when the connecting mono is a bit bigger, but it still isn't as strong as using a clinch knot to the ring. And if you do purchase some rings, it is best to count on tying the end of the leader piece of mono to the ring AT HOME. This stronger knot end won't break on the water, and you need something to hold onto the ring to tie the knot, and it can't be your fingers..the ring is too small. I use a needle, my fly tying bodkin works. I thread the mono through the ring, and then stick the end of the needle into the ring, tie the knot, and then can pull the knot tight against the needle..wetting the knot of course. On the river, you can tie a tippet then to the ring if you have to because you can pull against the leader attachment to the ring.
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I use them, and have for years.(made up leaders) I had lots of mono material in manufacturing a leader/lure. Basically it is not that critical that you get things exact given the modern graphite rods. I wouldn't use a formula, and there are many, many formulas, that has a lot of breakdowns...butt material, several diameter changes, then an 8",8" 8", 8" etc. That is not necessary. Mine turnover fine, and I go with about a 1/3 of the leader the butt piece length, and 1/3 the tippet. Actually my tippet is slightly less than that.( 10' leaders) For the butt I start with say 3-4 ft of .021 mono, followed by a 16" piece of .018, then 12" of .015 then 12" of .013 then 10-12" a length that will work with whatever tippet I use for that leader. If it is 1x I will tie the length right to the .013. If it is 4x, or 5x I tie in a 10 to 12" piece of .009, and then the tippet. I use nail knots on the line end, and lately have used a loop having learned how to weld a small loop in the end of my flyline using clear heat shrink, and shrinking it, and welding the flyline coating using a candle. I did this because I bought several furled mono leaders that I only have to tie a tippet to. I got a deal on them last year at our big fly tying Expo from an exhibitor, and realy liked how they turned over, and they are made with the small looped butt. I don't like a big loop in the end of my flyline, but can now take a line that has no loop, and make a small looped end. And here is a new add on that I really like. The weakest connection is the tippet to leader connection usually. Doesn't happen to me on fish, but get hung up in the bushes, and the tippet knot often breaks before the tippet to fly knot. SOOOO, I tried these tippet "O" rings...metal rings that are about the size I typed. They come in different lb tests 15 lbs beign the smallest, and 30 lbs the biggest. I like them. YOu don't have to match up your leader to tippet diameter as exactly. I end the leader at the small "O" ring with 0X, and an then tie on virtually any tippet with a clinch knot. They cause no sinking problems, or visibility problems. I got them through FeatherCraft co. I go through phases doing it one way,and then change for just change sake. I have 17 rods all with reels and lines on them, and set up for different uses so my leaders are tapered near the end somewhat differently on a number of them to accomodate the tippet size, and use for a particular rod, but the "O" ring concept has standardized a few of the rods. I have 4 rods now with the mono furled leader, and tippet ring on them. I am not saying by any means my system is the best, just what I have used over the years. I'm sure you undestand what I mean when I get to .013 and want a 5x tippet. You sure shouldn't tie .013 to .006. I need another piece in there, and use a 10-12" piece of say 2x, or .009. What I want is the last short section to be at least 10" long so when I change a tippet, I don't use up that tapered piece by having it just 8" say. I use a blood knot connection because I can tie it with less than a 1/2" of leader to trim off after tying the knot. If you use the surgeons knot that does connect uneven diameters with a stronger knot you have too much left over to trim off. But the "O" ring solves all of that. If you do buy these "O" rings, I have a tip I an give you.
And here is what I would do if I didn't want to get into a lot of different diameter mono's....I'd buy a commercial leader of 7.5 feet, or do they come 7 ft.?, and buy it in say 1X if I wasn't going to use a tippet bigger than 2X. Buy it with that in mind. It could be a 7ft. 2x if no tippets used bigger than 3X. Then I would cut tje tippet back by about 6-8" to make for better turnover, tie on a tippet ring, and then my tippet to the ring flouro, or mono. This should last you a season given no accidents other than a normal tippet breakoff. If I had two rods, a small fly setup, and a bigger dryfly/streamer setup, I'd be in the chips for whatever freshwater trout fishing I'd be doing. I often fish out of a driftboat, and will have the back of my boat serving as a golf club bag with 5 rods setup prior with different flies on them..small fly, streamer, nymph, softhackle, big, bushy dry ready to go. I end up using two out of the 5 on most days, and often just a big bushy dry if fishing remains good.
That is a pretty good idea. I will look into the tippet rings. That would make it easy to from a stout tippet for my zonker to a light tippet(s) for a midge. Too often I try to turn over a zonker with a 4x and it is a pain and ends up getting my fly stuck in the trees more often than in a drift.
And often I attach a tippet to a too big of diameter mono end. Creates a weak knot using a blood knot. You should make a wrap, or two more with the smaller diameter tippet when the connecting mono is a bit bigger, but it still isn't as strong as using a clinch knot to the ring. And if you do purchase some rings, it is best to count on tying the end of the leader piece of mono to the ring AT HOME. This stronger knot end won't break on the water, and you need something to hold onto the ring to tie the knot, and it can't be your fingers..the ring is too small. I use a needle, my fly tying bodkin works. I thread the mono through the ring, and then stick the end of the needle into the ring, tie the knot, and then can pull the knot tight against the needle..wetting the knot of course. On the river, you can tie a tippet then to the ring if you have to because you can pull against the leader attachment to the ring.
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