to get the dog used to gun shot, get a blank 22 pistol and fire a shot or 2 during the puppys feeding time so it associates loud noices or gunshots with food and a good thing, then gradually work your way up to a shot gun outside from a far distance with someone near the puppy feeding it treats while some one else fires the gun. start out far then work your way to the dog don't do it in a day or week spread it out till the dog is completely comfortable with the shot. patience and hard work is the key to a good hunting dog.

Brittanys are pointers he may wan to point instead of flush. He probably will flush at first but when he finds he can not catch the bird he will start to point.

Try to get a bird wing to play with once in a while. Get it interested by teasing it. Then throw it. After a while try hiding it in the yard. Rub the wing in the grass so the little squirt can get a good snootful of the scent to follow. And, of course, make a real big deal out of it when the pup gets interested. That trick of having someone pull the wing across the grass with a fishing pole and line is supposed to work well to help get them started pointing. To teach the pup to stay, I use treats in the kitchen and make it sit and stay while I step back a few steps. Always take it back to the same spot and start over if it breaks. Eventually it will stay for a few steps. Then call it and reward. Keep working at this game and it won't be long till the pup will easily stay when you're all the way across the room. Then work outside its sight a bit. It is very important that the pup learn to stop and hold when your hunting or it will be out of control. Also, spend a lot of time walking your pup in open spaces and calling it back with treats. Also work on keeping it behind you on command while walking. Shed the leash as much as possible. The dog will need to learn to stay with you without it. If you have a dog that is under your control when you're in the field, you've got ninety percent of the training done. Most of the rest is instinct. By the way, I haven't had a dog yet that was gun shy. Or not to any degree that couldn't be taken care of during the first outing with some encouragement. But if you find the pup is nervous in storms or the sound of fireworks you might want to do the .22 blank test and training as described above. Note however that many good hunting dogs may not be bothered by gunfire but still nonetheless frightened of thunder or fireworks. Hope this helps. P.S. I'm no fan of whistle training. I hate things dangling around my neck when I'm crawling through brush or over fences. My lungs work just fine. Also, I don't want to walk around the house blowing a whistle to get my dog's attention. A universal method for both field and home is the best approach.

I don't condemn folks that use e-collars to train their dogs. Confess that I've thought about it more than once. However, to date (I've been doing it for 45 years) I have had pretty good luck training dogs without them. However, it does take a lot of time and persistance and, in some cases, an incredible amount of patience. I can see where an e-collar could shave off some of this time and lower the frustration level. But I have heard from a couple of guys who used them that the dogs learn to respect the collar, not necessarily the handler. If the collar's not on, it's a whole different ball game. I'm hesitant to involve a middle man in the business of training. Just me and my dog. Call me old-fashioned but I still think that's best.

Sloth's advice seems sound. When hunting near roads or rail tracks it would sure be helpful to be able to have a sure-fire way to stop the dog in its tracks even if a bird runs or flies across roadway. Presently I have to stay clear of these areas when hunting. When my two year-old lab was four months old she flushed a rooster and ran across the road after it. It was hopeless to try and stop her. Fortunately nothing was coming. Some dogs want to chase a deer or rabbit if it pops up. I've been able to break all my dogs of this with old-fashioned discipline - but the instinct wasn't too bad with any of them. They didn't chase more than a hundred yards in the worst situations. But I've seen pointers that might require 220V jolt to stop if on a flushed deer or rabbit or they're in the next county in five minutes. I think Sloth has the right idea about e-collar being reserved as an absolute last resort. Thanks!

Just an up date on My Cocker Spaniel, this hunting season, I first have to say, I did go and get some professional help, and every time I went to the trainer, he made me feel about 4 inches high, just because everything he teaches is very simple, the kiss method...
The Spaniel, Skeet, had a few days beating on a couple of shoots, nothing big, 40 bird days, of both Partridge and Pheasant. And around 5 days picking up, just 10 or so birds, thats it, including woodcock, birds in the water, ducks etc.
But at the end of the day, I am Pack leader, in his eyes, in my wifes eyes she is pack leader, at least I let her think that...
Spaniels, I'll get another on this summer, great dogs, a bit smart and can be very head strong, but patience and they are great!
Thank you for your time.
Bryan Nelson
www.Sportingagent.com