First off she shot right at the duck on the water...often doesn't work as the feathers are bunched. I provided the tip on another subject regarding how to kill a duck on the water. Geese are beeeeg birds, and often farther a way than you think, and flying faster than you think. They take a lot of load to bring down at any kinda distance. And who knows if she was hitting them? What choke for the single shot? Gunners that shoot a 20 ga. and they have to use steel that limits the pellet count shoot over decoys, and at shorter ranges than a 12 ga. that is far and away the prefered guage when having to using steel for waterfowl.

A fixed choke gun like a single shot, a double barrel, or an over and under...THEY KICK! The full report comes right back at you. And a light wt 20 like a single shot would be, using 3 inch shells with high velocity loads?...kicks like a mule. Doesn't matter that it is a 20 ga.

O.H.- hypothetical question.(I don't know your hunting styles) If you were to hunt waterfowl in a situation that could present anything from teal to honkers, how would you load your 870? let's say you were paddling down a stream. BB's, 2,3,4? In a certain order? Or stick to a certain species and let the rest fly? What are your thoughts?

I just posted on a very well functioning autoloader that is 1/2 the cost, or there abouts of a 11-87 Remington. A Franchi, or as someone else then added a Stoeger. They are both from the same parent company of guns..the Berreta Arms Co. Benelli is one in that group, and about twice as expensive as the Franchi, or the Stoeger that run around $700-$750 and are great values. I've asked gun dealers what is the difference between my Benelli auto, and those guns? The answers always "dunno". They both use the same good functioning "intertia system" of recycling...easy to clean, and waterfowlers especially like how they perform. Even the kick is reduced, or the perceived kick anyway via the recycling system. I have a very light wt. Benelli, shoot magnums through it, and little perceived recoil. Nice looks, and the weight is lighter than the 11-87. Best value on the market from my perspective.

Clinchknot- I would say you're spot on with both the stoeger and franchi's. I bought an 11-87 in 08' for right around 800$. Had I known then about the berettas younger brother, it's where my dollar would have gone. I've hunted beside a few in the duck blind and canoe and must say that I like them a lot. That's some real sound advice you're giving. However, my 11-87 knocks em down just fine. But boy doesn't she hate low brass!

O.h. That is my exact approach. I typically go ducking with 3" #3's. While paddling a stream I may encounter a small group of geese, but I usually let them fly, unless the opportunity is too good to pass up. If I want a goose for the oven, I will generally hit the field with some BB's.

I'm curious on the shot recommendations here...this is my first year waterfowl hunting, and though I did not shoot any ducks (need a boat where I'm at...working on it) I did shoot a huge Canadian on the 2nd day of early goose season (in Michigan) and I did it with 3" 12g Federal Black Cloud #4. It flipped it over in the air and he dropped like a stone. Probably 35 yards. I'm assuming the poor results for geese this time of year is because they've bulked up for winter, correct? I didn't do any winter hunting so I didn't buy any other shells but I'm thinking BB for winter.

3" BB's on geese - 3" #3's on ducks. That's just my recommendation. If I knew I was shooting strictly teal or buffleheads I would probably jump up to #4, but because of the hope of a mallard or a black in the sights I say shoot a #3 on multi species duck hunt.

Nice if you shoot things like boards in trees, or a big, paper target that the shooter looks at the target, mounts the gun and fires. No real rush, but no sighting down the barrel like using a rifle. That way you can better see where you are pointing/shooting. It can well be the gun gets mounted LOW, and you shoot high. And that generally happens because the gun gets mounted to the shoulder, and the eye then is too high above the barrel. The thought should be..mount to the cheek, and then your eye is over the barrel properly. It can well be that a standard length stock is too long for a woman, and needs to be fit, and taken down some.

If you shoot at stationary targets, and especially mount the gun, take your time, and then fire?....you get the maximum felt/perceived recoil. When you shoot at game birds, or even a moving clay target, there is less perceived recoil. My 20 ga. O/U wacks me with trap loads shooting 25 shells at trap. It becomes evident after 10 shots, or so, and then I don't want to shoot any more 25 rounds with that gun. But hunting? I can shoot a 3" shell at game, and not know it even recoiled. I bought a "youth stock" for my Benelli auto that is 12 3/4 ", and then fit a slightly thicker butt pad on it, and it brought it out to 13" LP.(length of pull) Fits me perfect, and that is short for a stock. The key here is when she takes her grip with her shooting hand, and mounts the gun her thumb/hand is not within an inch of her nose. You need about 2" of clearance between your nose on the stock, and your shooting thumb/hand. If not, you get get your eyes crossed on a shot, and then don't want to shoot again, or start to flinch on every shot.

The first ever goose I ever shot was with #6 steel, in a youth 20 gauge. (I was skeptical but my dad said it would work when he bought me the shells.) He was amazed when i was walking back to the truck with goose draped over my shoulder. He said it must've been a fluke, but the next year i shot another with #4. I have never had a problem with knocking things out of the air. Just in case my luck runs out, i now hunt with a 12 gauge #2 and BB.