The idea of making big, elaborate food plots that require heavy equipment and hours of labor tends to intimidate landowners. But there's a much simpler and cheaper way to join the food plot craze. Grant Woods, one of America's top whitetail biologists and head of a deer management consulting firm, creates and hunts over what he calls hidey holes. "They're just small woods openings where I sweeten the deal in a place where deer already like to go--like putting ketchup and mustard on a hot dog."
These micro food plots require few tools: a small sprayer with Roundup herbicide, one bag each of lime and fertilizer, a rake or a leaf blower, and some seed. Building the plot is simple, and you can backpack in everything you need in a trip or two.
THE PERFECT SPOT Think small. A quarter acre is as big as you'll want to go. "An excellent place is around the trunk of a big, old tree that's been lightning-struck or killed by gypsy moths," Woods says. "Suddenly there's an opening in the canopy where sun hits the ground for a good part of the day." Log landings (cleared areas where loggers have piled timber), woods roads, and natural openings also work.
Woods preps the seedbed by spraying grass or weeds with Roundup. "Woody brush will have to be girdled [the bark scarred with a knife or hatchet] first," he says. "But don't go through the headache of clearing out dead trees--just work around them. You're not creating a field here."
If leaf litter is all that covers the ground, Woods uses a gas-powered blower to remove leaves and sticks for maximum soil-to-seed contact. "A leaf blower is one of the handiest tools a food-plotter can have. Not only does it do a beautiful job of clearing out the plot itself, but it's also great for creating an entry and exit trail to your stand." If you don't have one, use a steel-tined garden rake instead.
With the debris gone, Woods applies pelletized lime and fertilizer (which breaks down more quickly than the powdered variety) with a handheld spreader. "This is an essential step," he stresses. "Nearly all woodland soils are so acidic that even if plants grow, they'll taste bitter to deer. So I spread as much lime and fertilizer as I can haul in a couple of trips."
TASTY TREATS Finally, broadcast the seed on top of the lime and fertilizer. Deciding what--and when--to plant is critical. "You have a very specific mission: having that plot at peak palatability to deer when conditions are right for you," Woods says. "Seed it too early, and deer can wipe out a plot before you hunt it."
In most areas you'll be planting about three weeks before the opening of bow season, then hunting the site a limited number of times, depending on the crop. You need to consider both its attractiveness and its durability. Deer love peas, for example, but can eat an entire plot in about a week. Clover also draws whitetails and will buy you several more days, depending on the population density. Brassica blends are another favorite, but they mature at different times and give you maybe a month to six weeks.
It takes about four hours to establish a micro plot, according to Woods. "Some folks say that given the little time you can hunt one, you'd be better off just scouting more. That's true if you have exclusive access to a large tract. But if you're hunting only a small acreage or sharing land with other hunters, hidey holes provide an edge that's worth the time."
IMPROVING FORAGE To improve whitetail food without planting a thing, all you need to do is spray existing forage with liquid fertilizer. You can test the effectiveness of this technique by marking a patch of native vegetation with ribbons staked 20 feet apart, then fertilizing between the ribbons. "I'll guarantee that in a few days the fertilized vegetation will receive more use by whitetails than the area outside it," says Grant Woods. Fertilizers, which you can buy at most hardware stores, help release nutrients in plants--such as witch hazel, honeysuckle, and catbrier, all foods that whitetails already prefer--and make them even more attractive. Woods recommends pHFertilizer by BioLogic (866-677-9625; www.mossyoakbiologic.com). --S.B.
Comments (27)
What I need is a recommendation for what to plant in a sandy environment with such excellent drainage its hard to keep anything watered. Everything I've tried in this spot either doesn't germinate, or doesn't grow without copious irrigation.
Planting garden plants (pumpkins, melons, squash, tomatoes...) works well too. Just be sure that there is enough sun light to support the plants. Those little cherry tomatoes work really well. They are loaded with seeds and birds will help you plant more.
When you plant the squash and melons it helps if you bust them up when they are mature so the deer can eat the insides easier.
I'm with bayboater, My little area would be ideal for a "honeyhole" but its sandy but with a cool/neat little spot of sun hitting it. Perfect for something if it could ever grow.
I have done this in the past with limited success but that was my own fault for not applying any lime or fertilizer, hopefully after learning from my mistakes I will have better luck this time around.
My place has sandy soil and nothing will grow without at least adding lime to the soil...if we add fertilizer also we get a real nice stand of oats or winter wheat. I haven't had much luck with the brassica/legume mixes but if we get some rain we usually get the oats growing real well. One thing i never do is plant too early...if you don't get a rain shortly after planting the seed won't germinate. I wait until around September 15th here in east Texas before I plant.
Anyone have a recommendation for maximum effectiveness in Alabama? I am not sure that we have near as much soil as red clay. We have to use lime just to break down the clay. What crops do best in this area?
While making a simple food plot is good advice, I have one tip for everyone to use. Find you some acorns, Rake them up, put them on a screen say chicken wire, sift out the acorns and use the acorns. It works on sandy ground any kind of ground. The deer love them!!! My uncle doesn't even use food plots or bags of corn as long as he keeps them plenty of acorns. Plus its cheap! U don't have to really buy anything!
i planted a small food plot (15 by 25') with clover, (from cabella's) you can probably do alfalfa too, they can grow in almost anything and anywheres, and they last all spring too fall, you can even plant a couple of smal corn rows in between so you have something in the winter too.
I have nothing but marine clay on my land and very little grows in this stuff. We haul in 1" screen gravel and a lot of lime and as old of a batch of cow manure as we can find and till the heck out of the entire batch. Just about everything that we've planted has grown exceptionally well with this mixture. The clover mix is the deers favorite and they hit it constantly.
Thank you for putting this in the magazine. I havent been having much with the bait i put out for them. But this fall i'll try this food plot. I hope that this food plot works. I've heard from others that use food plots they say they work. I've asked them what is the best they said clover so thats what i'll use.
Food plots are a great alternative to baiting (where legal) and they can sometimes last more than one year.
One way to get kids to do chores would be to take them hunting with you.
My dad and I planted a food plot similair to this one we didnt use round up so the weeds are taking over , we used throw and grow seed, in a mix with some clover
Lol after plowing my food plots, I take the kids out to have a (Rock Throwing Party), I'm sure pretty soon they will wise up though. When I'm unable to plan food plots, I hand spread some 13-13-13 on the area honey suckle, muskadines and even have had great luck with a jan dosing of my oak flats with 1 cup to 1/2 cup fertilzer every 5-7 feet around the drip line of each oaks canopy. I just spade a 5-7 in hole, then pour in the fertilzer, stomp it down and go to the next. This is supposed to make the acorns bigger and sweeter
This works. It is the same priciple being used by land managers to do whole stands of hardwood. They use the "hack and squirt" method to allow sunlight into the area and create browse. Many areas in Mississippi are overbrowsed and need help. Doing one small plot in an overbrowsed area won't last long. Some research points to plants that handle the heavy browsing and bounce back. Mississippi's MSUcares.com site has been a lot of help to me.
Unlike large commercial 'hunting' ranches, which often double as cattle ranches in other regions, many of us "nor'easters" are beginning to sway toward micro-systems including substantial food-plots where available, supplemented by smaller plts interspersed where possible ~ including manipulation of habitat content (hide-holes, funnels, 'safe-areas', etc.). With minimal cooperation, small tracts can be turned into larger ecosystems providing abundance which impacts all species.
Winter wheat is good
if you use salt early in the season the deer will come all year round because they know that it is there but you have to go out 3 to 4 times a week to put some out if you notice that you are getting a pile of salt stop and wate because the deer might not be in that area yet useing salt will help any one out because if the deer know that it is there they will go there every day to get more.also if you notice that it gos down at anicretible pace you might want to put a trail can on it to see if you are getting visted by more then gust deer i find that if you use sofener salt it gos into the grownd when it rains. there for it will stay for longer.if you put it on a well used trail the deer will come to it more often. also if there is a game trail near your stand put some ground garlic power in it they will smell it and will stay long enough for you to shoot. i suggest that you start puting salt out about a mounth befor deer secason starts.
We have tried it all and found Corn and cowlick work well, and Stand-plot in a shaker bag is great neer your T-stand. This is in north Florida! our Rutt starts in Black power season.
Food plots are fun but seem to be a work in progress for me. I appreciate reading everyone elses comments in hopes of info that will help me
Im trying throw and grow out this year
Ver good thinking!
This article was very helpful because I have been looking to put in a small food plot to attract more deer.
I was surprised to read how little time they recommend seeding before you hunt. Realizing all climates are a little different, I would take a biological perennial seed mix and plant in spring so that it takes root and returns. I have gotten some great food plot tips and maybe more importantly food plot photographs and videos from other hunters who have uploaded their own pics to a site I use called www.shareyourhunt.com and it is really cool to see other hunters actual pictures to go along with their descriptions. Trail cameras over the plots really are cool to see as the plot matures....
im gonna have to try this this yr putting out corn and other attractants arent bringing in the bucks durin the day and the does not enough
i planted biologic no plow in a small area beside my house the deer hit it occasionally but not enough to say so. i need something to plant in swamp land .any suggestions?
While making a simple food plot is good advice, I have one tip for everyone to use. Find you some acorns, Rake them up, put them on a screen say chicken wire, sift out the acorns and use the acorns. It works on sandy ground any kind of ground. The deer love them!!! My uncle doesn't even use food plots or bags of corn as long as he keeps them plenty of acorns. Plus its cheap! U don't have to really buy anything! http://www.cancer-c.com/mesothelioma/asbestos-attorney.html
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Planting garden plants (pumpkins, melons, squash, tomatoes...) works well too. Just be sure that there is enough sun light to support the plants. Those little cherry tomatoes work really well. They are loaded with seeds and birds will help you plant more.
When you plant the squash and melons it helps if you bust them up when they are mature so the deer can eat the insides easier.
What I need is a recommendation for what to plant in a sandy environment with such excellent drainage its hard to keep anything watered. Everything I've tried in this spot either doesn't germinate, or doesn't grow without copious irrigation.
I'm with bayboater, My little area would be ideal for a "honeyhole" but its sandy but with a cool/neat little spot of sun hitting it. Perfect for something if it could ever grow.
I have done this in the past with limited success but that was my own fault for not applying any lime or fertilizer, hopefully after learning from my mistakes I will have better luck this time around.
Anyone have a recommendation for maximum effectiveness in Alabama? I am not sure that we have near as much soil as red clay. We have to use lime just to break down the clay. What crops do best in this area?
i planted a small food plot (15 by 25') with clover, (from cabella's) you can probably do alfalfa too, they can grow in almost anything and anywheres, and they last all spring too fall, you can even plant a couple of smal corn rows in between so you have something in the winter too.
I have nothing but marine clay on my land and very little grows in this stuff. We haul in 1" screen gravel and a lot of lime and as old of a batch of cow manure as we can find and till the heck out of the entire batch. Just about everything that we've planted has grown exceptionally well with this mixture. The clover mix is the deers favorite and they hit it constantly.
My place has sandy soil and nothing will grow without at least adding lime to the soil...if we add fertilizer also we get a real nice stand of oats or winter wheat. I haven't had much luck with the brassica/legume mixes but if we get some rain we usually get the oats growing real well. One thing i never do is plant too early...if you don't get a rain shortly after planting the seed won't germinate. I wait until around September 15th here in east Texas before I plant.
While making a simple food plot is good advice, I have one tip for everyone to use. Find you some acorns, Rake them up, put them on a screen say chicken wire, sift out the acorns and use the acorns. It works on sandy ground any kind of ground. The deer love them!!! My uncle doesn't even use food plots or bags of corn as long as he keeps them plenty of acorns. Plus its cheap! U don't have to really buy anything!
Thank you for putting this in the magazine. I havent been having much with the bait i put out for them. But this fall i'll try this food plot. I hope that this food plot works. I've heard from others that use food plots they say they work. I've asked them what is the best they said clover so thats what i'll use.
Food plots are a great alternative to baiting (where legal) and they can sometimes last more than one year.
One way to get kids to do chores would be to take them hunting with you.
My dad and I planted a food plot similair to this one we didnt use round up so the weeds are taking over , we used throw and grow seed, in a mix with some clover
Lol after plowing my food plots, I take the kids out to have a (Rock Throwing Party), I'm sure pretty soon they will wise up though. When I'm unable to plan food plots, I hand spread some 13-13-13 on the area honey suckle, muskadines and even have had great luck with a jan dosing of my oak flats with 1 cup to 1/2 cup fertilzer every 5-7 feet around the drip line of each oaks canopy. I just spade a 5-7 in hole, then pour in the fertilzer, stomp it down and go to the next. This is supposed to make the acorns bigger and sweeter
This works. It is the same priciple being used by land managers to do whole stands of hardwood. They use the "hack and squirt" method to allow sunlight into the area and create browse. Many areas in Mississippi are overbrowsed and need help. Doing one small plot in an overbrowsed area won't last long. Some research points to plants that handle the heavy browsing and bounce back. Mississippi's MSUcares.com site has been a lot of help to me.
Unlike large commercial 'hunting' ranches, which often double as cattle ranches in other regions, many of us "nor'easters" are beginning to sway toward micro-systems including substantial food-plots where available, supplemented by smaller plts interspersed where possible ~ including manipulation of habitat content (hide-holes, funnels, 'safe-areas', etc.). With minimal cooperation, small tracts can be turned into larger ecosystems providing abundance which impacts all species.
Winter wheat is good
if you use salt early in the season the deer will come all year round because they know that it is there but you have to go out 3 to 4 times a week to put some out if you notice that you are getting a pile of salt stop and wate because the deer might not be in that area yet useing salt will help any one out because if the deer know that it is there they will go there every day to get more.also if you notice that it gos down at anicretible pace you might want to put a trail can on it to see if you are getting visted by more then gust deer i find that if you use sofener salt it gos into the grownd when it rains. there for it will stay for longer.if you put it on a well used trail the deer will come to it more often. also if there is a game trail near your stand put some ground garlic power in it they will smell it and will stay long enough for you to shoot. i suggest that you start puting salt out about a mounth befor deer secason starts.
We have tried it all and found Corn and cowlick work well, and Stand-plot in a shaker bag is great neer your T-stand. This is in north Florida! our Rutt starts in Black power season.
Food plots are fun but seem to be a work in progress for me. I appreciate reading everyone elses comments in hopes of info that will help me
Im trying throw and grow out this year
Ver good thinking!
I was surprised to read how little time they recommend seeding before you hunt. Realizing all climates are a little different, I would take a biological perennial seed mix and plant in spring so that it takes root and returns. I have gotten some great food plot tips and maybe more importantly food plot photographs and videos from other hunters who have uploaded their own pics to a site I use called www.shareyourhunt.com and it is really cool to see other hunters actual pictures to go along with their descriptions. Trail cameras over the plots really are cool to see as the plot matures....
This article was very helpful because I have been looking to put in a small food plot to attract more deer.
i planted biologic no plow in a small area beside my house the deer hit it occasionally but not enough to say so. i need something to plant in swamp land .any suggestions?
im gonna have to try this this yr putting out corn and other attractants arent bringing in the bucks durin the day and the does not enough
While making a simple food plot is good advice, I have one tip for everyone to use. Find you some acorns, Rake them up, put them on a screen say chicken wire, sift out the acorns and use the acorns. It works on sandy ground any kind of ground. The deer love them!!! My uncle doesn't even use food plots or bags of corn as long as he keeps them plenty of acorns. Plus its cheap! U don't have to really buy anything! http://www.cancer-c.com/mesothelioma/asbestos-attorney.html
Post a Comment