Late last June, my friend, photographer Jason Sealock, and I took a road trip to grabblin's mecca, the little farming community of Greenwood, Miss. The town is situated along the muddy banks of the Yazoo, Tallahatchie, and Yalobusha Rivers-"all meandering tributaries of the Mississippi, full of alligators, cottonmouths, and enough Southern lore to baffle the most skeptical Yankee. These waters also hold more nasty, pissed-off blue and flathead catfish than you're likely to encounter anywhere else in the South.