"You guys got your lunch?-¿ asked Captain Jim Willcox (305-393-1128; ultimatekeysfishing.com), the backcountry fishing guide that Stanczyk had booked for us. "Then let's go catch some fish.-¿ Joe and I stowed our sandwiches and drinks in Willcox's 18-foot Action Craft flats boat, sat on the front bench, and we were underway, slowly motoring away from the marina, under Route 1's Tea Table Relief bridge, and into Florida Bay, the northwest portion of the Gulf of Mexico that borders the Florida Keys.

Our destination was the tip of the Everglades, about a 45-minute run northwest of the marina. The bridge and the Keys were soon out of sight, and we saw nothing but water, low scrub islands, and two small boats heading in different directions. And more water. Because this region of Florida Bay is part of Everglades National Park, the few land areas won't ever be developed, and it takes a long boat ride to get here from areas that are. "Backcountry-¿ is a bit of a misnomer. "Way the hell back in the middle of nowhere-¿ would be more apt.

TIP: You'll need to get a Florida saltwater fishing license only if you go fishing without a guide. They're inexpensive; a 3-day nonresident license is $7. Get one at the tackle shop when you buy your bait.