To what lengths -- or rather, what extremes -- would you travel to catch the trout of your life? For me, the journey led nearly to the end of the civilized world, over 8,000 miles from home, to the wildest reaches of Tierra del Fuego, the "Land of Fire," in southernmost Argentina. I had been told of a seldom fished and little understood river here, the Irigoyen (pronounced erie-GO-zhen), where massive sea-run brown trout swam through log-strewn runs and deep pools. The chance to hook a 20-pounder was enough incentive to fly from Denver to Atlanta, to Buenos Aires, to Ushuaia, the southernmost town in the world (total flying time over 16 hours). By the time we drove across this bottom spine of the Andes on our way to the river, I was a veritable trout zombie.