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Rio Grande Road Trip

Last fall, Field & Stream Online Editor Nate Matthews and his father, Bruce, spent 15 days fishing the Rio Grande River from its headwaters in Colorado’s Continental Divide all the way to its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. These excerpts from their journals tell the story of their 2500-mile motorcycle ride.

Photo Galleries

  • Ride Report: Days Seven and Eight
  • Ride Report: Day Six in Photos
  • Ride Report: Day Five in Photos
  • Ride Report: Day Four in Photos
  • Ride Report: Day Three in Photos
  • Ride Report: Day Two in Photos
  • Ride Report: Day One in Photos
  • January 7, 2011

    Riding the Rio Grande, Day Ten: Camping with Tarantulas

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    Last fall, Field & Stream Online Editor Nate Matthews and his father, Bruce, spent 15 days fishing the Rio Grande River from its headwaters in Colorado to its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. These excerpts from their journals tell the story of the 10th day of their trip. You can read reports from previous days here.

    NM: 10/2, 8:00 AM
    Mariscal Canyon, Big Bend National Park, morning light.

    We camped last night on a flat sandbank on the Texas side of the river.  Tim and I find a trail up a break in the walls that leads to the top of the cliff. We step out onto an overhanging rock on the rim and can see deep into the canyon we ran last night. There are vultures soaring below us, riding updrafts along the cliff walls.

    Today we only have a six-mile float from where we’re camped now to the pullout, where we parked Dad’s bike yesterday afternoon.  Once we get there we’ll have to run 70 miles of shuttle up and down rough trail to get both bikes and the truck to our camp for the night, but compared to the distances we’ve been covering lately it... [ Read Full Post ]

  • December 30, 2010

    Riding the Rio Grande, Day Nine: Rapids in the Dark

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    Last fall, Field & Stream Online Editor Nate Matthews and his father, Bruce, spent 15 days fishing the Rio Grande River from its headwaters in Colorado to its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. These excerpts from their journals tell the story of the 9th day of their trip. You can read reports from previous days here.

    NM: 10/1, 6:30 AM
    Woke up this morning in another beautiful campsite, just 100 yards from Mexico and 30 miles or so from the western edge of Big Bend National Park. Everyone’s dragging a bit, so we fire up our stoves and brew some java. Tim’s sitting at a picnic table and nursing a cup. “God, coffee. Work!” he says.

    Our goal over the next two days is to reach and then paddle a stretch of the Rio Grande that flows through 1800-foot deep Mariscal Canyon, which is supposedly the most beautiful canyon in Big Bend. The float is not very long, only 11 miles, and we’ll be splitting it up over two days, but there’s only one place to camp in the canyon, about halfway through the float. Dropping in at the put-in with enough light left to reach... [ Read Full Post ]

  • December 23, 2010

    Riding the Rio Grande, Days Seven and Eight: Rattlesnake Flats

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    Last fall, Field & Stream Online Editor Nate Matthews and his father, Bruce, spent 15 days fishing the Rio Grande River from its headwaters in Colorado to its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. These excerpts from their journals tell the story of their trip.

    NM: 9/29, 9:00 AM
    We’ve got two days of nothing but riding ahead of us. Going to be our longest stretch to date. Grueling heat, bright sun, not much room in the schedule for rest. Have to reach Big Bend National Park, near the southernmost point along the Texas border, by tomorrow evening. We plan to do another two-day float there in our canoe, and I want to camp close to the put-in so we have time to complete it safely. Don’t want to run any rapids in the dark.

    BM: 9/29, 2:00 PM
    Stayed last night in a motel in Albuquerque. Much needed rest in a bed. Long day planned. I start out feeling good, but there’s tough traffic on I-25 out of town. Windy, drafty from other vehicles. Red semi on my tail. I admit to flipping him off. The speed limit is 75 and we hit 80 a lot. Passed a big... [ Read Full Post ]

  • December 23, 2010

    Video Recap: Floating Whiterock Canyon

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    By Tim Romano

      [ Read Full Post ]

  • December 20, 2010

    Riding the Rio Grande, Day Six: Los Alamos Quicksand

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    Last fall, Field & Stream Online Editor Nate Matthews and his father, Bruce, spent 15 days fishing the Rio Grande River from its headwaters in Colorado to its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. These excerpts from their journals tell the story of their trip.

    BM: 9/29, 8:45
    We kicked off this morning by running some rapids that were squirrely enough to want to run empty. We planned our route and as with all things, had to modify when we hit the first big rock eddy. We eddied out, but got lined back up and shot the rest, only taking on a little water. Fun run!
    [ Read Full Post ]

  • December 16, 2010

    Riding the Rio Grande, Day Five: Crashing and Floating

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    Last fall, Field & Stream Online Editor Nate Matthews and his father, Bruce, spent 15 days fishing the Rio Grande River from its headwaters in Colorado to its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. These excerpts from their journals tell the story of their 2500-mile motorcycle ride along the historic river. Photographer Tim Romano documented the excursion. You can see more photos from Day Five of this expedition (and find new journal updates as they are posted) by clicking here.

    BM: 9/28, 6:30 AM
    Today we broke camp and re-organized our gear for the first half of the float Nate’s got planned for us (that's a map of the day's float in the photo above). Up early and moving fast so we can get to the put-in in time to do some fishing. It's apparently a pretty long ride to get reach it. Tried to get all the stuff in the truck within five minutes -- Tim filmed the loading.

    But … the Toyota won’t start. Battery’s fully discharged. Somehow in all the data dumping, camera charging, etc., we must have run out of juice.

    So, Nate’s off on the bike looking for help. Tim’s... [ Read Full Post ]

  • December 16, 2010

    Video Recap: Riding the Upper River

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    By Nate Matthews

    [ Read Full Post ]

  • December 14, 2010

    Riding the Rio Grande, Day Four: Fishing the Canyon

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    Last fall, Field & Stream Online Editor Nate Matthews and his father, Bruce, spent 15 days fishing the Rio Grande River from its headwaters in Colorado to its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. These excerpts from their journals tell the story of their 2500-mile motorcycle ride along the historic river. Photographer Tim Romano documented the excursion. You can see more photos from Day Four of this expedition (and find new journal updates as they are posted) by clicking here.

    NM: 9/27, 7:00 AM
    Yesterday was a riding day; we spent roughly 10 hours on the bikes leaving the headwaters and then passing through the desert of the San Luis Valley. When we finally arrived at our campsite on the east side of the Upper Rio Grande Canyon it was nearing full dark. I pitched my tent on the edge of a cliff, then crawled into my sleeping bag and passed out, exhausted. Woke up this morning to an incredible view, but it's a good thing I don’t walk in my sleep … I hadn’t quite realized how far down it was to the bottom.

    Today is a fishing day. Right now we’re... [ Read Full Post ]

  • December 10, 2010

    Riding the Rio Grande, Day Three: Enter the Desert

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    Last fall, Field & Stream Online Editor Nate Matthews and his father, Bruce, spent 15 days fishing the Rio Grande River from its headwaters in Colorado to its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. These excerpts from their journals tell the story of their 2500-mile motorcycle ride along the historic river. Photographer Tim Romano documented the excursion. You can see more photos from Day Three of this expedition (and find new journal updates as they are posted) by clicking here.

    NM: 9/26, 9:00 PM
    We're camped at a beautiful spot on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Upper Rio Grande Canyon, just northeast of Taos. The place is called Cebolla Mesa. Tomorrow we plan to hike down the mile-long trail that leads from where we’ve pitched our tents to where I can hear the river roaring faintly. It’s pitch dark right now – we had to ride at night again to get here, so I can’t see the bottom, but it sounds like excellent pocket water. I’m excited. Tomorrow will be one of the few days on this trip where we'll have the luxury of doing nothing but fish.

    This is a good thing,... [ Read Full Post ]

  • December 8, 2010

    Riding the Rio Grande: Day Two

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    Last fall, Field & Stream Online Editor Nate Matthews and his father, Bruce, spent 15 days fishing the Rio Grande River from its headwaters in Colorado to its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. These excerpts from their journals tell the story of their 2500-mile motorcycle ride along the historic river. Photographer Tim Romano documented the excursion. You can see more photos from Day Two of this expedition (and find new journal updates as they are posted) by clicking here.

    NM: 9/25, 6:30 AM
    Just woke up. Last night was a haul. As I wrote in my journal yesterday, we spent more time than we should have picking up the bikes from the dealership they'd been shipped to in Colorado Springs, and so we didn’t leave for the headwaters until four in the afternoon. The sun was setting right into our eyes as we headed out of town. I woke up this morning with a sore back, a sore butt, and a crick in my neck from riding with my helmet tipped sideways so that the corner of my visor blocked the worst of it.

    Dad’s up now, too, and moving pretty... [ Read Full Post ]

  • December 7, 2010

    Riding the Rio Grande: Day One

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    Last fall, Field & Stream Online Editor Nate Matthews and his father, Bruce, spent 15 days fishing the Rio Grande River from its headwaters in Colorado’s Continental Divide all the way to its mouth at the Gulf of Mexico. These excerpts from their journals tell the story of their 2500-mile motorcycle ride along the historic river, taken during momentous times in the lives of both father and son. Photographer Tim Romano documented the excursion. Look for the print feature in June 2011.

    NM: 9/23, 9:30 AM
    On the train, headed to JFK. Leaving for this one was hard. Dropped my son off at daycare this morning and he didn’t want to let me go, crying inconsolably, like he knew how long I’d be leaving even though he’s only 20 months old. Maybe he picked up on how worried I’m feeling. This could be a risky ride.

    I’m not afraid for myself — I know how to handle a motorcycle. But my Dad, who’s 59,  hasn’t ridden one in a long time. The last time was before I was born, and I’m 32. And he says he crashed it. Now I’m taking him on a 2500-mile through the Rocky Mountains, into... [ Read Full Post ]

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