rifle

Live from the SHOT Show: Booth Babes 2009

Joe_Cermele — Thu, 15 Jan 2009 16:16:53 -0500

The 2006 Whitetail Hunter's Master Class

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 22 Nov 2006 05:00:00 -0500

Dream Bucks: Your Trophy Deer Photos From the 2005 Hunting Season

fieldandstream-editor — Thu, 03 Aug 2006 05:00:00 -0400

Hunting Tips from Master Outdoorsman Jerome B. Robinson

fieldandstream-editor — Thu, 27 Jul 2006 11:00:00 -0400

A Beginner's Guide to Blackpowder

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 21 Jun 2006 05:00:00 -0400

The 50 Best Guns Ever Made, Revisited

fieldandstream-editor — Fri, 05 May 2006 12:00:00 -0400

Click here to read this story and post your comments on David E. Petzal's blog, The Gun Nut

Editor's Note: Last February, Dave wrote a cover story titled "The 50 Best Guns Ever Made" that generated lots of heated opinion. In case any of you missed the piece, we've posted links to it in photo gallery form in Dave's blog. Keep an eye on the story next week as he returns to the subject with updates to the list and some fresh thoughts on these guns.

Click here to read this story and post your comments on David E. Petzal's blog, The Gun Nut

At the Range: David E. Petzal tests the .325 WSM Browning A-Bolt

fieldandstream-editor — Wed, 26 Apr 2006 05:15:00 -0400

THE INSIDE STORY: When it first came to me, this A-Bolt rifle couldn't have hit Montana if I were standing in downtown Billings. Why? The fore-end had warped and was pressing against the barrel. I sent the gun back to Browning, where the problem was quickly corrected. When I got it back, the A-Bolt turned out to be a nice firearm, albeit a somewhat temperamental one. It does not shoot the three available bullet weights anywhere near one another, and it finds a certain weight to be much more to its taste than the others.

Here's how it went on the target range: 180-grain Ballistic Silvertips averaged 1.649 inches; 200-grain AccuBond CT slugs went into 2.74 inches, and 220-grain Power-Point groups measured .598 across. This A-Bolt really likes Power-Points.

All told, it is a light, handsome rifle with a nicely figured, well-checkered claro walnut stock, a good-not great-trigger pull, and very positive feed for a gun that handles shortfats. I wish Browning would dispense with the gold-plated trigger, but that is a minor quibble.

Browning considers this an all-around gun, but I disagree. It's not really a deer gun, but I would certainly use it on bear, elk, or African game. Its real advantage is that it's a genuinely light gun that shoots a heavy bullet and won't kick you to death in the process.

CALIBER: .325 WSM

PRICE: $764; right-hand, $734

WEIGHT: 7 pounds 1 ounce without scope

BARREL: 23-inch, chrome-moly

STOCK: Checkered walnut

TRIGGER PULL: 3 pounds 12 ounces

SCOPE USED IN TEST: Bushnell Elite 4200 2.5XÂ¿Â¿Â¿10X

ACTION: Left-handed A-Bolt

MAGAZINE CAPACITY: Three

Group Therapy

fieldandstream-editor — Fri, 07 Apr 2006 05:30:00 -0400

Were this the best of all possible worlds, we would fire three rifle shots at a target, peer downrange, and see three holes clustered within the area of a dime at precisely the right place. But this is not the best of all possible worlds, in that it has a place for chiggers, bad cholesterol, rabies, abdominal fat, leprosy, and Sen. Chuck Schumer (D-NY). And in this vale of sorrow, we often look at our targets and see horror, chaos, and disorder. (It occurs to me that I am being unfair to leprosy. If so, I apologize to Mycobacteria leprae everywhere.)

In any event, we know that something is wrong, but what? Rather than burst into tears, you should regard this as a heart-to-heart talk with your rifle, which, if you can speak its language, will tell you what ails it.

Complete Breakdown. Problem: Your shots are all over the place and you can't get a group to save your life. There are several causes. First is a ruptured scope. The way to test this is to put a different scope on your gun and see if it groups better. Second is loose bedding screws on the rifle. Check to see if they're tight. Third is loose ring or base screws. Sometimes, one particular bullet weight will give results this bad. If this is the case, it's usually because the barrel's rifling twist is wrong for that bullet weight.

Consistent Flyer. Problem: Your ammo is almost, but not quite, right for your gun. Usually this shows up as two holes close together and the third one off to the side by an inch or two. At 100 yards, this is not a problem, but at farther distances you'll have trouble. It's caused by bullets traveling just above or below the optimum speed for that barrel, causing it to vibrate inconsistently. Handloaders can cure it by raising or lowering the powder charge. Non-handloaders will have to try different ammunition.

Inconsistent Flyer. Problem: Most of the time you get good groups, but sometimes you have one shot go astray, and sometimes all three go where they're not supposed to. Most likely you're flinching, and if you don't think you can flinch from a benchrest, think again. You can buy a Lead Sled Shooting Rest ($125; 800-243-3220; midwayusa.com), which virtually eliminates felt recoil, or put a soft gun case or sandbag between your shoulder and the butt. If it were me, I'd get a less punishing rifle.

Rising Group. Problem: your groups are okay, but they keep moving up on the target, sometimes straight up, sometimes up and left or right. This is caused by an overheated barrel. When a tube gets too hot, it warps slightly, sending bullets errantly, and the heat waves rising from it give you a distorted view of the target, sort of like shooting through a swimming pool. The cure is easy: Let your barrel cool down. I start each group with a cold barrel and never let it get beyond lukewarm.

Stringing. Problem: groups string vertically or horizontally. First, check the barrel bedding. Most barrels today are free-floating-there should be no contact from 11/2 inches forward of the receiver right out to the end. If there is, take the gun in for a rebedding job. Horizontal grouping can be caused by wind at the target that you don't feel at the bench. Vertical groups can be caused by the fore-end jumping on too hard a surface.

Cover Story: The Gun Nut Survey

fieldandstream-editor — Mon, 27 Feb 2006 04:15:00 -0500

In the 12 days it was out there, we got over 2,000 responses to our Gun Nut Survey. Some of the results were flat startling. We learned that Remington rules the roost as far as popularity goes, that the highest-ranked handgun was designed before the First World War, and that our No. 1 big-game and deer cartridge is even older. But this nod to tradition aside, we found that most of you do not yearn for the good old days. You think modern guns are better, and you are perfectly happy to break with tradition if it results in a better firearm. We also learned that firearms hunters won't cross certain technological barriers if it means violating their code of ethics.

The best part of the survey may be your comments. We've published as many of them as we could.

Click here to read the rest of the story on David E. Petzal's new blog, The Gun Nut

Getting Into Coyotes

fieldandstream-editor — Sat, 25 Feb 2006 04:05:00 -0500

Fool one of these superwary predators and you earn the rank of expert hunter. Here's how to do it:

Focus on areas that hold small game, birds, mice, and vermin. CRP fields, brushy creek- or riverbottoms, swamps and marshes, and young clear-cuts are all excellent choices. Most farmers will gladly give you permission to hunt. Pinpoint your spots by looking for tracks and listening for barks, yips, and howls at dawn and dusk. The ideal conditions for a hunt are cold, calm days. Windy days are the worst.

Stealth is the first priority: no slamming vehicle doors or talking to your partner. Settle into a comfortable shooting position on a knoll or field edge that offers good visibility, and wait five to 15 minutes before calling.

Coyotes have extremely keen eyesight and, like any animal coming to a call, are looking hard for its source. Make sure your camo is good and that your hands and face are covered. A cushion to sit on helps you keep still.

If no coyotes come to your calls, sneak back out and drive to another area at least a half mile away, and repeat the process. You should be able to cover eight to 10 good spots in a day of hunting.

The Ideal Coyote Setup:
Wind is key, but other factors can help put the odds in your favor. Click the picture below for to enlarge and see directions.

The Gear
You don't need much to start, and you may already have it

Calls Mouth-operated rabbit squealers are a must, but don't rely on them alone. Also use other distress calls and coyote howlers.

Decoys These act as a closer to your calls. One of your kid's beat-up stuffed animals can suffice, though battery-run motion dekes work best.

Guns Flat-shooting rifles in .223 caliber work best in open terrain, but your deer rifle will do the trick. Shotguns rule in thick timber or on night hunts (where legal). If you hunt turkeys, you probably already own the right setup: a tight-choked 12-gauge that throws a dense pattern out to 35 yards. Use No. 4 buckshot in magnum loads.

Web Exclusive: Caring for Your Kill
Coyotes sport beautiful coats that can be tanned and used as rugs, sewn into clothing (I'm still searching for the perfect pelt to make a mountain man hat), preserved as a taxidermy mount, or sold to a fur buyer. For a rug or mount, it's best to take your coyote whole to the taxidermist. If you plan to sell your hide or make some kind of simple clothing from it, here's how to skin the animal yourself:

Directions:
Get to the task as soon as possible. Don't let the animal freeze, and bring it to a warm basement or shed to keep the hide flexible and supple.

Tie a section of rope around one of the coyote's hind legs, just above the paw. Then tie the other end around a nail, peg, or beam on the ceiling so the animal is hanging upside down with the tail at about eye level.
With the belly of the coyote facing you, make a slit in the hide at the base of the tail and continue up the inside of the leg that's tied, stopping at the rope. Cut the hide all the way around the leg at this point (it's not important to leave the back feet attached if you're going to sell the hide) and skin this hindquarter. Return to your original cut and repeat the procedure on the opposite leg.
Make a 3" to 4" cut through the hide on the underside of the tail (just above the anus) extending toward the tail's tip. Peel the skin back on each side of this cut until you can run a finger (under the skin) completely around the tailbone. Grab the base and with some steady pulling, you should be able to peel the tailbone awayy from the hide surrounding it.
Make a circular cut around the anus to free the hide where it attaches there. At this point, you've freed the hide from the hind legs and tail. Continue to pull the skin off the animal down to the shoulders, as if you were removing a shirt. When you reach the legs, peel the hide down until you reach the "ankle" joint just above the paw. Cut the legs off at this ankle joint, leaving the paws attached to the pelt.
Continue working the hide down over the animal's body until you free it. You'll need some extra patience around the ears, face, and mouth. Coyotes have thin skin and are very lean, which means careful skinning is required to avoid tearing the hide. The first dog you skin will seem tricky, but the process speeds up with practice!