pointer

Dog Training Tips from Master Outdoorsman Jerome B. Robinson

fieldandstream-editor — Thu, 27 Jul 2006 11:20:00 -0400

Hobbs the Hero

fieldandstream-editor — Tue, 30 May 2006 06:00:00 -0400

Two years ago, Larry Crouch and his family got a free bird dog. The pup, an Elhew English pointer, was a giveaway because he'd been born with a right front leg that hadn't fully developed. Normally, a dog, especially a hunting breed, with such a birth defect would be put down right away. But something about this pup drew people to him, and beguiled Crouch into taking him home. He became an instant member of the family and was named Hobbs.

This would be nothing more than your basic "happiness is a warm puppy" story if Crouch had not become interested in tournament hunting. In this sport, a dog and a hunter have 20 minutes to find and point three planted birds, get them to flush, shoot each with one shot, and retrieve each bird back to the hunter's hand. Somehow, Crouch knew that this was something he and Hobbs were meant to do together.

At nine months, Hobbs went into training, and when he began competing in events sponsored by the National Bird Dog Challenge Association (NBDCA) and the Tournament Hunter Champions Club (THCC), he immediately showed enormous talent and tremendous heart. Even Crouch's rivals on the circuit were won over by the pointer's amazing drive. Today, total strangers walk up to Crouch and ask, "Where's Hobbs?" And the mention of his name at tournament banquets can produce sustained chants of "Hobbs! Hobbs! Hobbs!"

More than just a sentimental favorite, Hobbs has proven to be a determined and able competitor, as well as a potential champion. In 2005 he held second place for the "High Point" dog in the NBDCA Hunter Division national standings, finishing in the top ten in both the Hunter and Puppy Divisions. This year he was the number-one qualifier in the Top Gun Division at the NBDCA/THCC Nationals in Davis City, Iowa; and last March, Hobbs qualified for the Midwest Series Nationals by placing second at an event held at Bear Lake Club in Ridgeway, Missouri.

As Hobbs continues to pile up points, you have to wonder how far he could have gone on four good legs. Then again, in Hobbs' case, maybe an extra one would have just slowed him down.

Hobbs' Stats:
2005 NBDCA / THCC Standings:
2nd Place High Points Dog in Hunter Division
Qualified NBDCA Nationals in Top Gun Division
Qualified NBDCA Nationals in Hunter Division
Top 10 Placement NBDCA Nationals Hunter Division
Top 10 Placement NBDCA Nationals Puppy Division
2005 NBDCA Championship Hunter Division
17 NBDCA National Qualifier Placements

2006 NBDCA / THCC Standings To Date:
6 NBDCA National Qualifier placements
1st Place Top Gun Division National Qualifier
2nd Place Midwest Series Nationals

How to Pick a Pup

fieldandstream-editor — Sun, 25 Dec 2005 04:05:00 -0500

A high-quality gun dog adds riches to your life. But a lot of pups for sale are genetically designed to be nice-looking nitwits that bring their owners nothing but frustration and embarrassment. So how can you tell the good from the bad?

[BRACKET "1"] Look at the Parents:
The qualities of the parents tell you more than anything in a pup's papers about what it will look like, how good its nose will be, and how it will behave. That's why you should never buy from a breeder whose claims cannot be checked. TIP: Ask to see the parents work. Pointing-dog parents should be close-working bird finders, not runaways that disappear and hunt out of control. The parents of good retriever prospects retrieve enthusiastically without any frantic activity.

[BRACKET "2"] Check Their Health:
Make sure you see a veterinary certificate showing that the pups you're interested in are in excellent health and have been wormed and inoculated with DHLPP vaccine. TIP: Arrange to see the litter at feeding time. A healthy pup eats eagerly, has a firm covering of flesh, and is happy and robust, not timid, spooky, thin, or runny-eyed.

[BRACKET "3"] Test Their Temperament:
One by one, gently pick up the pups. Before putting each one down, turn it on its back for a moment. A pup that snaps at your hand or struggles wildly when held on its back momentarily is hypersensitive and may be difficult to train. One that just lies there may be dull. You want one that wiggles but doesn't go crazy. TIP: Male or female? The only absolute difference is that females come in heat. In my experience, females are extra-affectionate and sometimes handle with less effort in the field.

[BRACKET "4"] Take Them for a Test Drive:
Take the pups you like outside one by one and apply these tests. Their responses will indicate how they may respond to training later.
Test 1: Walk away. Does the pup romp along beside you or ignore your departure?
Test 2: Stop walking, clap your hands, and squat down on one knee. Does the pup run up to you or wander off on its own business?
Test 3: Crumple up a paper and throw it in plain view. The pup should show healthy curiosity and run after it.

[BRACKET "5"] Trust Your Gut:
By now you should have narrowed your choices down to a few pups. If one appeals to you more than the others for some unexplainable reason, play your hunch and take it. If a final choice seems impossible, just reach in and grab one of them.
TIP: Before making your final pick, check the pup's temperature: 101.5 degrees is normal; anything between 101 and 102 is acceptable.