I have a Venture HC (not sure what an HCa is). Works great, even in heavy canopy and bad weather. Definitely get additional Mapsource topo and road maps ... worth the money. Could use more memory - just have to download to the PC every once in awhile.

They should just weld the locks shut and fill it in. Should have never been opened up in the first place.

Welcome back CPT B! Good to see you back on. Hope you have been able to get some hunting in. Ever tried candied cucumber rings? Bright red, spicy, sweet, tasty, and habit forming - just right for the season. Most recipes are similar to this: http://recipes.smashits.com/6574-recipe-candied-cucumber-pickles.html

I tend to forget that detail, so normally have to figure it out. Since my avatar is a Japanese hunting badge, Kanagawa Prefecture, from 1958, the year I was born (in case you missed that post way back when) ... that would be 51. And, we're still waiting for an answer to Happy Miles' question. We're not getting any younger, you know.

Those Eberlestock packs sure are nice but $$$. Cabela's has several that will carry a rifle (or bow). Some are external pack frames. The internal frame Bow and Rifle Pack comes in two sizes, with and without Scent-Lok, and is on sale right now. Comes in their Outfitter Camo, too.

shane - I suspect custom barrel makers don't use hammer forging because of the cost of the equipment. The companies that use hammer forging (add Winchester, Sako, and others) have sub-MOA accurate rifles. Good enough for hunting. Could they get batter accuracy and consistency from hammer forging? Possibly so, but at a higher cost. Not all the custom button-rifled and cut barrels get the go ahead either.

I usually thoroughly research items before going in to shops and know enough to usually hold my own. But my gunsmiths and some of the guys at the local shops are walking encyclopedias. I seek those guys out. Most times I just shut up and listen. If they don't know they tell me they will find out and I truly appreciate and admire that. No BS from them. They have their opinions but know there's many ways to kill four legged and flying creatures. Not once have I seen them speak down to anyone or be derogatory ... except to deserving politicians and the like. I still have to wonder about the guys at a local chain sporting goods store. I have seen several gun models mismarked ... for instance, Win Model 71 marked as an 1886 and two Belgium Browning Superposeds marked as Citori's.

Hornady is just mimicking Remington Premier and Winchester Supreme lines. I have no problem with that but am glad that I reload.

Didn't your mom, grandma, or science teacher ever tell you not to mix the two? Very bad news.

I don't shoot unless I know, for sure, what I am shooting at. I would have tagged out twice already if I just shot.

I am presuming you mean satellite rather than topo maps. Try your state wildlife website. Michigan's DNR website has some great printable views.

On opening day a guy that got to my afternoon stand location before me shot one.

If your friend's allergic to dander, might look into an English cocker spaniel. They do shed but not so much if brushed. A friend that is allergic to dogs can still tolerate hers. If he doesn't want hair, period, then a standard poodle might be a choice. Believe it or not, there are some lines that hunt upland and duck.

Sauer 202 take down is very nice but $$$. Otherwise, a break action like a T/C Encore. Some old Savage 99s were also take downs.

O/U is second only to a SxS, at least in my opinion. Most people I hunt with use 20 or 28g for ruffed grouse.

I plan to use my dad's old Model 94 Winchester for the deer opener. But I had to add a rear peep sight.

Well, it appears that you will have to tolerate some bias with the .243 Win. But just smile when your targets shows tiny groups and when you bring home the venison or eliminate some varmints. It will come in very handy if you want to teach a young one to shoot straight. The Hornady LeverEvolution with long-barreled Marlin lever rifles has extended the .30-30's range out to 300 yards or so. Should still be good for the shorter barreled guns, too. Lever guns are just plain fun ... and very quick and handy in the underbrush.

Of these three, I like the .270 Win but would settle for the .243 Win any day.

"Can't ya hear that bear sneaking up behind you" by Top Predator.

Might try contacting the people that conduct the monthly hunter survey. They poll purchases each month. They might share some data with you. http://www.huntersurvey.com/

Someone mentioned this website a ways back - a new deal every day. www.camofire.com Been seeing some good stuff at big discounts.

Got into such a hurry to meet up with some friends that I left both rifles at home. Lucky they had a spare.

Meat on a fawn has to be pretty good, but I prefer more meat in the freezer for the effort expended.

Are you considering a quail recipe? Sorry, couldn't resist. If you like hard crust read try this: http://www.cooksillustrated.com/recipes/detail.asp?docid=11829 Be sure to watch the video.

QuickClot blood clotting agent. Can get sealed sponges at Cabela's.

Depends on the village - check with your local DNR office.

Might also consider the new Winchester M70 - Featherweight or Sporter if you like wood, or Shadow or Extreme Weather if you want synthetic. Made in the USA. I have a new .308 Win Featherweight - still working on loads but groups are ranging from 3 shot cloverleafs to 1.5" at 100yards. Groups get bigger after 3 shots, when the light barrel heats up, but I am not using it for varmints so am not concerned.

Take a look at a stock, lever, and lower metal for the Winchester Model 64. Not sure if it is a bolt in change, though. Might also just look at a Ruger 96.

I wonder about that myself, too. If it moves a whitetail sees it. They still have to connect the dots. But if I see him first I stop breathing anyway.

The Alpha's are rubber coated neoprene. I sometimes switch from insulated boots for sitting stands on cold mornings to lighter boots for still-hunting. The weight difference is noticeable. Neoprene also insulates.

In Michigan it is legal to use any treestand that is on public property. I'd at least attempt to prevent use, though. Not sure what would happen if someone used it and fell out. Lawyers will try to sue anyone they can. Best to stick with a climber or Tree Saddle.

I wish it were as easy as using 125 gr field points. The additional weight might change the dynamics of your arrow. Try experimenting, though. I also agree - during season, I'd set the pins to broadhead impact points.

I have a .308 Win on order. Actually, a previous one came in but had very un-Winchester HBU (Hairy Butt Ugly) wood. Couldn't believe it made it out of the factory. New one should arrive in a few more days. Hoping this one is better.

One night I heard coyotes howling close by and then scuffling all around me while I field dressed a deer. A friend helped me drag it out. His young setter had the jitters the entire time and stayed close. Came back the next morning to find a lost arrow and the gut pile was gone. Coyote tracks everywhere. Figure they see enough gut piles to know that there is an easy meal if they are patient.

Easy way to go, if you just want the breast. Very little meat on the rear legs anyway. Makes it easier to find and remove the shot, too (hold the breast up to a bright light). I think leaving the skin on gives better taste but you have to be careful not to chomp down on shot.

That moron might be me stalking a deer in a ghillie suit, so please don't shoot. I don't think I'd be sitting there just watching you, though.

180 gr will be moving pretty slow out of a .308 Win. I would only use it for moderate ranges. Might not expand at long range. 150g is a pretty balanced bullet weight for the .308 Win. I am drawn to 168g bullets so am starting there with my new .308. I am also looking at 130 gr Barnes TTSX. That should be moving fast enough to expand well on deer at longer ranges.

Very nice gift. A real classic and one of the greats. Congrats! I bet your uncle is glad to see you are asking the right questions on what to use with it.

Don't. Quarter it from the outside in. I was looking for alternatives to quartering out an elk and stumbled onto a video using a downed moose. It's called Field Care for Big Game, produced by the Alaska Dept of Fish and Game. Sorry, never done it myself but it looks like a good place to start.

Whatever is accurate in your gun. Personally, I don't think the .22 hollow points add much in the way of killing power for squirrels. A .22 to a squirrel is like a 12 ga slug to a coyote. Have never seen any tests, though. The bullets I've found were just deformed rather than expanded. Head shots have worked best for me, so expansion is a moot point. Actually, come to think of it, I have killed many squirrels with .177 flat point pellets.

I slow down breathing to keep quiet and to hear better but am usually pretty mechanical when it comes to shooting.

It is called the late (bow) season. Not much competition from other hunters because of all the cold weather gear you normally have to wear. Can be a challenge pulling a bow after sitting in freezing weather all day with those heavy clothes. Some guys lower their draw weight. Some are smart and sit in heated blinds in tee shirts.

Take a look at Keltec and Kahr (double actions). If you want a 1911-like pistol (single action), then perhaps a STI LS9. Some people have issues with new STIs but I was told that it is because they can be very tight and must be shot a lot to break them in. Oh, LS40s and older LS9's do not have last round slide locks. New LS9s do. Older LS9s can be converted, but STI didn't do that to the LS40 for a reason (I still don't know why).

I'd be hunting on the ground that trip. No way it is worth the risk.

I am sure it will if you hit is right at very close range, but I never trusted a projectile that I can see arc through the air (except one with razor sharp points attached to an arrow).

That 6.8 Rem SPC you used in the Contender to take your blacktail is a great round. Low recoil, great ballistics, and, from your results, good performance. Not a round you see a lot of people using, so that is cool. If you are considering other rounds with very low recoil there's the .243 Win or old .250 Savage. If you are ready the .260 Rem, .257 Roberts, .25-06, 6.5x55mm, 7mm-08, 7x57, or .35 Rem are the next step up in recoil.

I presume it took some effort to move the stock and that the barrel is free floating. I'd also leave it alone, but keep an eye on it during weather changes to make sure the wood doesn't warp and touch the barrel. Might also check interference if you use a rifle sling to brace your aim. But, if you are competent with woodworking tools and finishing and don't like the look, then go at it to even it up, but not all the way to the action.

Out of curiosity, what caliber is that M-100?

Thinking it was a dove with a BB gun, but might have been a chicken - probably wringing it's neck with my hands. I don't think I was allowed to use a hatchet when I was that young.

Hammerhead shark ... just a little one.

Nothing less than the Garmin Venture eTrex HC. Go with high sensitivity if you will be in heavy canopy. The units with internal or card memory and PC attachments allow you to upgrade firmware yourself and upload additional maps, like terrain and detailed area maps, and to save data. Well worth it. More expensive units might give you more battery life, too.

Well, they do like the taste of quail. If you've got quail then the foxes will be there if they are around.

You've been scrotumed? I'd laugh ... and figure out who did it. They just can't keep it secret. Paybacks can be a b**ch.

Excellent stainless knife steels are available, like 440C, AUS8, ATS-34, 154CM, and S30V, but like the non-SS steel blades a lot depends on the treatment by the maker. The same blade material from different manufacturers can have different properties. There is also VG10 - a laminate that places a tough steel on the outside and a harder more brittle steel on the inside, for a very strong blade with a very sharp edge. I don't have any experience with it. If the edge material doesn't have chromium, like my kitchen laminated knives, the edge can corrode quickly. But it seems most hunting and fishing knife makers would make the edge material somewhat stainless. I like a good D2 blade - semi-stainless. A sharp knife is key, but for all this said, unless you have a true appreciation for materials, need a survival knife, need resistance to salt water, or need a knife that will cut long before sharpening, it is hard to go wrong when you buy a good brand name knife and diamond sharpening stones.

... unless it's a black bear, of course. Fight back unless you want to become bear dung.

Sounds like you have a nuisance tag. There are restrictions. Better check them out in detail. I understand that written DNR permission is required during deer season, a centerfire rifle or shotgun with slug must be used, and written DNR permission is required to shoot a buck with antlers 3" or more. Might want to ask a CO if you can take a bow with you to take the buck with your regular or restricted tag.

I definitely shoot left with a thick facemask, but only a couple of inches at 20 yards.

The regular/combo licenses restrict us to antlered deer during firearm and muzzleloader seasons. Can use them for antlerless during archery only. I don't expect that to change soon, but who knows. There are yearly drawings for antlerless licenses on public lands. You can also buy over the counter antlerless licenses for private lands in specific zones/counties. You can use these during rifle season. Check the MDNR website or a store that sells licenses. Many stores display maps showing where tags are still available.

Saskatchewan. Only little spikes and scrawny does here in Michigan. :-)

Isn't the third time a charm?

I just went through a similar dilemma and decided on a .308 Win. The .270 Win has the velocity advantage but the .308 has an accuracy edge (though I had a Tikka T3 .270 Win that shot very nice groups) and a larger variety of bullets for reloading. Can't go wrong with either when it really comes down to it.

Dove ... with a BB gun.

Might have to go used. Make sure it fits your draw length, though. If you are unfamiliar with that then stop by a pro shop and pick their brains. They might actually have a trade in.

First I ever heard of hunting quail from a blind. Perhaps you're on to something. Is that why you asked about 100 yard shots at the little buggers? We always walked up on them until they flushed.

Christian - are you storing the spare choke tubes in the tube magazine?

Hear, hear!

.50 caliber percussion front loader.

I think they are alert to whatever it out there trying to eat them.

Not a trend with bow hunters that I know. Personally, carbons suit me just fine.

Good things come to those who ask, rarely to those that don't. Not any worse than asking a cute girl out on a date. Sometimes they are just waiting to be asked.

In early day I look for aspen stands and crisscross the area, stopping often, keying in on any conifers mixed in. They could be anywhere. Later in the day by the edges, conifers, and gravel.

The .204 flight path does get bent a bit from the wind but it is a blast to shoot. My Remington 700 was a 0.5" gun. .223 is cheaper and just gets the job done. I like them both.

If you use your oven I hope you have an understanding wife ... when walking in from outdoors the odor from certain recipes can be overpowering.

Warbles. Unappetizing, which is one reason why we always waited until first frost. The larva leave by then, though there might be some infection in the skin.

For reaching out reasonably long where you don't need a 200+ gr bullet I like the .300 WSM. It is a balanced and modern cartridge and I think it is here to stay. Most shooters are traditionalists, me included most of the time, but I never liked belted cartridges like the .300 WinMag. If I want to really reach out there are other choices.

It's not recommended. Sabots are designed for rifled barrels. Without spin I'd expect the bullets to tumble, resulting in poor accuracy. Tumbling bullets are unlikely to hit in the way they are designed, possibly resulting in wounded game.

I seem to have better luck with jointed Rapalas on a steady retrieve. The classic or suspending is more versatile in that you can mix it up - let it sit, twitch, retrieve.

I've seen them moving in very heavy snow. Beautiful time to be out.

Venison, though we call it elk to differentiate.

You might consider peeing out of your stand, belching, passing gas, smoking, and standing by a campfire before going out. Sorry, sort of ... just couldn't resist. I am still amazed watching bucks with their nose to the ground following the exact path of my estrous scent rag. One walked within 5 feet of me. Another ran right under my stand and just stood there, looking around, perhaps wondering where the hot doe was. I want to try this with a doe decoy one day. Probably doesn't work on the big secretive bucks that wait in the shadows for the does to come to them, though.

When you are confident in taking him out.

Alex, you're safe with Cheney as long as you don't become a lawyer. Scariest for me as when we were teenagers. We'd drive out before dark and park in this very old graveyard. We had to walk through the fog, often tripping over headstones to get to the woods. Nothing like tripping and falling down in the gray mist onto someone's grave. The chills. Some of the headstones were so old you couldn't read them. Lots of very spooky stories regarding that graveyard over the years. But it was the best squirrel hunting around. Figured we were the only one's crazy enough to go there.

Our English pointer and GSP were Blue and Sport.

007 - I just cringe at that. I hope no one considers using that as a camp trick. That would call for tar and feathers and hanging by the toes in a rattlesnake pit. I can just picture the guy with a lariat lassoing a doe and trying to get it to pee in a cup. Sounds like a job for Jimmy Big Time.

There have been many sightings in Michigan's upper lower. They once showed sighting locations on google maps, but they aren't there anymore.

For $60 it is worth the time my professional butcher takes to cut/grind, weigh, package, and mark the meat.

Seems that the Nosler marketing guys tried to set this gun up for collectors. Probably would do better if it with a wood stock. Sure seems like a nice gun, though.

Take a look at the 94s on Williams Gunsight's list (not the 94 AE/Angle Ejects). These are in good to excellent condition. Figure you might pick them up for about 10% less than the price listed. http://www.williamsgunsight.com/gunsights/808usedrifles.htm Jaqua's has some, too: http://www.jaquas.com/gunlist/Search.asp#116291

Definitely go as big as you can afford. You will probably fill it. A great investment in peace of mind. They can get stolen, though. A guy in front of me at a gun counter turned around and left practically in tears. I asked what happened. Someone had hooked up a wrecker to his gun safe and pulled it through the wall of his house. Homeowners insurance for guns is relatively inexpensive (basic policies might only cover $1,000 total in a theft). Consider it, even if you have a safe. I spent a few days at a gun safe dealer a few years back. There are differences between the brands as far as fire ratings, wall thickness, lock mechanisms, etc. You get what you pay for. You can check them out on the Internet. Brinks, Sentry, Stack-On, Liberty, American Security, Cannon, Dakota, Homeland, Browning, Champion, Superior, Summit, Fort Knox, Gaffunder all make their own safes, if I remember correctly. Some name brands, like Remington and Winchester, are made by others. In any case, even an inexpensive safe is better than nothing.

Definitely beards. Regulations in Michigan allow hunters to take a bearded turkey in the Spring ... bearded hens are okay, though it is best to let them walk if you want the flock to prosper and multiply.

I have heard of people being attacked by coyotes, including a hunter siting on a pail at the edge of a corn field. But this is the first I have heard of an adult fatality. Truly unfortunate. A terrible way to die. Interesting that Elmer Fudd's link is the only news article or report that I have seen or heard.

Code Blue estrous works well. It is pricey, though. Might try the Code Red this weekend.

Friends that have been through Lasik love it. Contacts work well for me - just have to carry extra reading glasses (I lose lots of them). I wear Night & Day lens that last about a month. Went to extended wear when I sailed. It was near impossible trying to insert daily wear contacts on a bobbing boat.

Found out the other day that if you shine a green light directly at a deer it gets their attention. They might not be able to make out subdued green but they notice brightness. Most filters don't take out all the colors.

Flip a coin. You'll eventually want them both. Can't go wrong with wither one. I like the inherent accuracy of the .308 but also like the higher velocity of the .270.

You might find some wood stocks more tolerant of high heat (stable) than some synthetics.

Is the double similar to these: http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=144436878 http://www.gunbroker.com/auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=143010915 Condition and engraving mean a lot regarding value.

My favorite bird. But talk about do or die copulation. They join high in midair and don't separate until they are done. There was a documentary where road-killed deer were set on the ice for the bald eagles. Couldn't believe the number of birds chowing down. I was at a stadium where a guy released a bald eagle on the upper deck across from the stage, just as the National Anthem came on. It flew around the inside perimeter and landed on a guy's arm on stage. The crowd erupted. Pretty cool.

I have a Williams peep (aperture) sight mounted to my M94. Surprisingly fast and accurate.

LA's Deputy is not listed in any of my firearms books. Maybe someone has an older reference. Nearest I can figure from the books and the Internet is that it was made in Germany, possibly by J.P. Sauer, and may have been distributed by L.A. Distributors (as in Los Angeles?), which makes sense from the name. The maker's name was purposely left off - one person saying that this was around 1968 when laws were enacted to reduce the number of Saturday Night Specials (SNS) - not that this was a SNS, since Sauer made decent guns. Hawes, a California distributor, also imported similar, if not identical guns (Deputy and Marshall models, and others)that were takeoffs from the Colt 45 craze in the '50s and '60s. But Hawes put their name on the guns. I wonder if Hawes and L.A. Distributors might have been a progression of companies, or one in the same. Hy Hunter also may have been involved. Seems no one has done or publicized any research, probably because these aren't highly collectible guns. I hope someone knows more because this is interesting.

Yes, I have. One of the reasons I bought a roll up deer sled - best $20 I have ever spent for hunting whitetails. I leave it in the truck - worth the extra trip.

I prefer a bench, but whatever is available. The only time I've used a bi-pod is with a walking varmint rifle. These were long enough for sitting shots - growth too high for prone. Got folding sticks but don't carry them anymore - too much time to pull out and set up. Would be nice if you had a guide or handler with them during safari, though. I don't have a rest on my tree stands but the shots are close enough to fire offhand - most are used for bow anyway. Last shot of last season was off one knee in thigh deep snow - no supports available. Hasty sling has pulled the shots off with some of my rifles but is nice on the ones where it works. Go for any rest, if available.

We bring beer because we like it. I can't recall anyone even considering one until the day's hunt was over and we were settling in. It is about responsibility not about abstinence.

My .32 Win only see reloads. I am waiting for Hornady to sell the LeverEvolution bullets instead of just the loaded ammo. I will be using my dad's M94 with Hornady 170gr FPs for this year's deer opener. He hunted javalina and bear with it - don't know if it has ever been used on a whitetail. LeverEvolution is a great concept. Can't wait to try it out with this gun.

Was in my treestand. Hung the bow, stood up and turned around. Unfastened my pack and balanced it on the folded up seat. Pulled out my headlight and put it on, just as a buck ran up and stopped directly under me. Leaned over to look at it and my headlight fell off and hit an antler. The buck took off and stopped about 30 yards broadside. Must have been comical watching me hipping the pack against the tree so it wouldn't fall, grabbing my bow, and drawing all contorted. The arrow flew true. Walked out to the road, made a call, and set up a light trail so a friend could help me haul him out. Was very strange gutting that buck out that night - I could hear several coyotes moving around. Friend's young setter was nervous the entire time we were out there. Came back the next morning to find an arrow I had dropped and the gut pile was already gone.

I took a close look at these myself. I have used Motorola Talkabouts at outdoor events for years. Have you checked out the websites? Can download the user manuals, at least for the Midland. Some stores, like Bass Pro or Cabela's might have some that you can play with. Feeling them in your hands and playing with them will make the choice easier. Both companies have been around a long time and have good products. Midland advertises that their radio is waterproof, but its rating is rain and splash resistant, not submersible. Better than nothing, though. It does have a bulkier feel to it, even though the overall dimensions are pretty close. The call feature is like a ring tone on a phone, just to alert the person on the other end that there is a call coming in. You don't have to use it and can just key the mic and talk. You can also use the vibration call alert, which makes some noise. You can turn the tones off but you still get some noise from keying a mic or from pressing buttons. The only way to eliminate most of the broadcast noise is to use an ear bud. The Midland has a boom mic that extends from the ear piece. I think that gets into the way. The Motorola mic is integrated into the cord going to an ear bud - can forget that it is there. If you want more range you can pay the license fee to use GMRS frequencies. Most two-ways have GMRS as well as the low power FRS. Both have weather channels and SOS calls, but the Motorola sends the SOS alert over the airways and opens the mic. The Midland just sends out an audible alert. The alerts can be accidentally activated, though. Motorola also has a flashlight built in - would prefer a red bulb to the white. Hope that helps.

Nah ... it is just in your mind.

At least four magazine subscribers or website bloggers per month. At least that is how many are rating the gear in each mag. Since the subscribers are paying money for the mag it seems fair that more of them would get selected.

In the Great Lakes, sea lampreys devastated the native lake trout. Still fighting the lampreys. Alewife took over and stunk up the beaches when they died in mass. Chinook were brought in to eat them. Now the gobies .... Grayling were overfished in our rivers so brown trout were brought in. Zebra mussels cleared up water in Lake Erie ... which is now an excellent smallmouth fishery (though the zebra mussels are still not wanted). Not sure where the quagga mussels will take us. Asian carp working their way up the Mississippi towards Lake Michigan. Common carp have made homes everywhere in the US, but these Asian carp scare me. After seeing the article on those huge Wels catfish, I wonder if anyone is considering bringing those in to feast on the carp.

Beer, a good whisky or scotch, and coffee ... lots of coffee. Hard to beat chili, or a pot roast, but fresh grouse or woodcock wrapped in bacon sure is good.

An old Remington 760 rebarreled in .35 Whelen. It just plain shoots. 225 gr .358" diameter bullets hit hard and leave a big hole without damaging much meat.

Light field/game. One ounce loads of 7-1/2 or 8 shot. I also assume you mean 100 feet.

Glad to see that you are taking classes seriously. Keep it up and you may someday be able to afford all the guns your heart desires. I've been ready for deer season since the last one ended.

I get to my stand an hour earlier now.

The only things I don't like about the 7600 are the Monte Carlo style cheekpiece and the trigger. The trigger pull and lockup are poor but I don't seem to notice when hunting. I've had two 760's and have been eyeballing a very nice Model 6 in .30-06 (predecessor to the 7600). Both of mine are MOA accurate. I full-length re-size reloads. They carry well, are quick handling, and are fast for follow-up shots. Optimum for a woods gun with some long shot possibilities. If most of my shots were across prairies or beanfields I would go with a bolt action.

I tried them on my Rem 760. Breathed on my scope lens and fogged it up at an inopportune time. But the mounts put the scope up too high. Not for me.

Oh, my ... just a bit away from an eye, ear, Adam's apple, or artery. Could easily have been devastating.

Grouse and perch .. though it would have been walleye last week. Might be sushi tuna next week.

I like to have confidence that the bullet is doing what it is designed for at the velocity it reaches at range. Pass throughs without expansion do kill, if in the right spot - and that is where a bigger diameter bullet is nice. But I like to use the bullet in its working range, and that includes close as well as long shots.

I have an RCBS balance beam and electronic scale. One of these days I am going to just take the plunge and get a dispenser-scale combo. That RCBS Chargemaster seems too nice to be true.

A bit uneasy at times. Some places just raise the hairs on the back on my neck. Still remember teenage days when we walked through a haunted foggy graveyard to choice squirrel woods. Some other woods were around Indian burial mounds. Then there was that spooky abandoned farm house, which they finally tore down. Nowadays, where I hunt, there are numerous Bigfoot sightings. Some of those might have been me, though, slipping out and back into the woods in my ghillie suit.

Lord of the Fawns?

These are calibers. Do you know the make and models?

If they admitted there were breeding lions they would eventually be forced to manage them. Where's the money?

As buckhunter pointed out, putting scent out early can result in some surprises. I drag a scent rag to my stand. One day, while setting up a ground blind I heard some noise behind me. I was using a red headlight. I turned around and was face to face with a buck only a few feet away. Shocked both of us. I must have gasped. He skedaddled, probably not even knowing what frightened him.

Found out I have very poor peripheral vision with graduated bifocal glasses. Went back to contacts for hunting. Just have to remember to bring reading glasses along. Hopefully, the eye doctor will fix you up.

A few gizmos and modern items come in handy. Wish the weatherman had better forecasting equipment, though. Woke up at 2:30AM today and drove 3 hours north to the woods, expecting a nice overcast day with light to moderate winds. Had to stop 4 times on the two tracks to clear fallen trees. Had to be chop one 10" tree into 3 pieces to just move it. A portable Milwaukee Sawzall would have saved some sweat from swinging my hunter's axe. But my Under Armour shirt, Redhead poly long johns, and poly fleece shirt wicked the moisture away ... but forget about being scent free today. 40 mph winds, sleet and rain - got darker as dawn got closer. Thank you, Mr. Weatherman. Nice having wind and waterproof outer layers, hat, gloves, and insulated boots. Cell phone, too, in case a tree fell on me where I had reception. Figured the deer weren't moving when it got light so I still hunted the swamps and hills for 6 more hours. Switched to some lightweight Goretex lined leather boots. Followed a trail into a new area - fresh rubs and scrapes! Marked them on my GPS. Saw two deer, but couldn't see if they had any headgear before they bolted. I had my excellent fully coated binoculars but they just can't see around trees and brush. Thirty five yard shot with my compound bow was quite doable, though. One deer was in a bed ... beautiful remote spot ... marked that on my GPS, too. I am beat. The deer and the weather won today. But I am smiling. Thanks to modern highways and speed limits and I am home in time to hand out Halloween candy.

For the gills, anything that looks like food ... dry fly, wet fly, or nymph. I've had them hit full size Hula Poppers so I think they will try to eat anything. For crappie, tiny streamers that look like minnows.

It might be the hook itself. Look for egg hooks. Cabela's and Bass Pro carry them, as do fly fishing shops. Short wide gap hooks. Some even have a barb to hold the egg in place.

I agree with Beekeeper. Velocity being equal, the one with the greater sectional density. SDs are .279 for the 250G Speer Hot Core and .271 for the Remington Core-Lokt. Very close, but have to give it to the .35. There are significant velocity differences. A 300 Win Mag .180g Core-Lokt has an advertised muzzle velocity of ~2,900 fps. The .350 Rem Mag should push a 250g Hot core at ~2,400. These bullets have similar construction, basically the lead core is bonded to the jacket, so I'd expect similar performance at equal velocities. Depending on the distance, one would expect the higher velocity bullet to expand more and shed more weight, thus decreasing the penetration. So, without trying to figure out the terminal bullet diameters and weights at each distance, I'd expect the .35 to penetrate more.

My Gerber Carnivore (original model) is a good flashlight - better be for the price. Bright white light, pistol grip, and tight sheath. The blue/red LEDs work nicely for getting around in the dark. Tracking a deer through fallen autumn leaves last October, I kept toggling between the white and red/blue lights. I preferred the bright white. Perhaps the new model and the Primos work better for tracking blood.

Oh, yes! But get enough of them and just cook them up for dinner! Excellent eating.

Measure from the center of the bore up to the center of the scope tube or lens. This is only needed if using a ballistics program or chart to determine point of impact. Importance? Depends on how close to 100 yard zero you want to theoretically be. You should fine tune the scope and check at various yardages anyway. Let's say your scope is at 1.5" ... for a typical factory 270WSM you need to sight at -0.8" at 25 yards to zero at 100 yards. For a scope at 2" you need to sight in at -1.2" at 25 yards to zero at 100 yards. All bullets probably won't go through the same hole, so you are averaging the impact points. Some bullets also don't stabilize at short ranges so impacts at 100 yards might not be where calculated. Same with longer ranges. Not all guns will shoot bullets at the same velocity. So ... still have to check targets at various ranges and fine tune.

Different bullets will give different OALs because the bullet ogive touches the rifling at different points and the tips are different shapes. Might consider a different bullet if this one doesn't work out. OAL is standardized, but the Maximum OAL depends on the magazine (you need space in front of the bullet tip to keep from damaging it or ramming it back into the case during recoil, which can dangerously increase pressures). You can load longer than MOAL and put rounds into the chamber one at a time. But if you want to use the magazine then you need to keep them shorter than MOAL. I don't know if Savage magazines will safely handle cartridges over 2.8"". Might want to call Savage technical support. But, personally, I would load to 2.80" to be on the safe side, and start with loads with minimum recommended powder charges.

I would not pick just one knot. Need to learn a bunch. Even in the Cub Scouts I think we learned square knot, bowline, and hitches. When I was a kid I spent hours with rope and my dad's big Navy knot books - still have them. Wish I remembered just a few more of them at times.

I also use Triple Seven. One thing to be wary of is that it does leave a fouling ring. The ring can, supposedly, be reduced by using rifle (or is that pistol?) primer adapters or Winchester 209 777 primers. I've tried both and am not thoroughly convinced. I just got into the habit of cleaning the bore between shots with Windex or spit and a dry patch, and just use regular 209 and #11 primers. You can feel the fouling ring when you run a patch down the bore, just before reaching the breech. This is formed where the bullet contacts the powder. One wet patch should get rid of it (don't use cleaning solvents or oil). Be sure to run the dry patch to get rid of any moisture. If your gun is capable, might consider Blackhorn 209 propellent. Just need to have an inline with a totally enclosed/supported 209 primer pocket. This changes all the above since it is non-corrosive and cleans up with solvents.

If you are just looking for another rod and reel why not try a baitcaster? Casting a baitcaster is another fishing skill that is worth learning (have patience). Baitcasters can also make it easier to get lures into tricky spots. Bass Pro is a good choice, as is Cabela's. Their store brands offer good value.

If you are using the Barnes TSX they recommend starting at .050" of the lands. Might find that they shoot better even further out. But since the TSX bullet ogive and tip will probably be different from the Nosler the measurements you take might be different.

Usually get surface corrosion formed on nuts and bolts. Can be unsightly. If you let it go you will have to replace them.

A rainbow trout ... in Patagonia.

Good timing - a friend sent me an video of someone doing just that with a pickup.

Per Numrich and gunnersden, the Sears Model 21 is a High Standard K2011. Numrich's has several parts. http://www.e-gunparts.com/products_new.asp?CatID=9693 Might also check gunbroker.com periodically.

Brook trout. They are living jewels.

I have only handled one, a 20 gauge, at an RGS banquet. I kept picking it up all night. I really liked the feel. Very light (aluminum receiver), good balance, and fit me nicely. A great price. I would definitely consider one if I was looking for a field grade 20ga. semi-auto.

Hope you get over this quickly and you don't miss any time in the field. I think there is some truth to those old home remedies using honey.

I have often urinated in scrapes and had deer come in so don't bother with a pee bottle. But I've never tried it after eating asparagus or drinking white zinfandel.

If the end of the line shows a clean break or is wavy and deformed then the line is snapping, as RobinHood described. Cut off the deformed section. If the end of the line has tiny furls then your knots are probably coming untied. I use the improved clinch knot and rarely have trouble. I use 5-7 complete wraps. Be sure to wet the knot before you pull it tight (helps to reduce friction and dissipate heat that weakens the knot) ... and really pull it tight. Leave a bit of the tag end when you trim, or as John Merwin pointed out a few weeks ago in the Honest Angler forum, might not even have to trim the tag end at all. Regular flouro, by the way, doesn't hold the knot as well as mono. And keep DEET off your fingers and the line ... the stuff eats it up.

If it is a new gun check the directions. It might have a corrosion preventative on the gun that is best removed with gun oil. Then use solvent to get rid of all the oil inside the bore. Then dry patch to get the solvent out. After shooting, my traditional muzzleloader usually justs need hot soap and water to clean the bore. After that, bore butter inside and out. On the modern, which gets sabots, I use soap and water for the powder and modern solvents for the plastic residue, if necessary. The bluing gets oiled and the bore gets light oil for storage (I patch it dry before shooting). All the threads get anti-seize lube. At the range I use Windex or spit on a patch between shots.

Crimson Croc's (2-blade w/bleeders) work well for me.

Haven't been able to find my broadhead in stores lately. Once I run out I will likely switch to either the G5 Tekan or the Rage 2-blade.

I ran 130gr and 150 gr bullets traveling 3,250 and 3,125 fps through two trajectory calculators (with scope centerline 1.5" above bore centerline). Should be at -0.8" at 25 yards to zero at 100 yards. Still should verify it after sighting in. As Jamesti said, try the Winchester ballistics calculator for the specific round you are using. Set the interval distance to 25 yards, the sight in distance to 100 yards, enter the correct scope height and calculate. Print the chart to see 25 yard zero.

You might look at the .30-30 Hornady LeverEvolution ammo. Should extend the effective range. But ... I think they are using a long barrel for their published figures ... perhaps a 24 incher, as on the Marlin 336XLR.

The G5 two-sided diamond "stone" works nicely on their Montecs. Very fine grit. But the broadheads I have used for the last couple of years use replaceable blades which I don't bother sharpening.

I don't think anyone has ever shown that it makes a difference. But, I go through the break-in procedure anyway. There is an article in the current American Rifleman magazine about this. Impossible to prove since every barrel is different, but if someone were to test enough "identical" barrels they could show statistical significance. But, as Disraeli said, "There are three kinds of lies: lies, damned lies, and statistics."

If you are not going far can make a T seat from 2x4 lumber. Just lean it against the tree and take a seat. They also make seats that strap around trees. Very comfy but some are quite loud.

NRA, US Sportmens' Alliance, Ruffed Grouse Society, Anglers of the Au Sable, Michigan United Conservation Clubs. All are limited by resources. Some get my money. Some get my time and money. If organizations don't get my support I have no right to complain.

Go with blunt or judo. The Montec SGH are pricey and I have broken off blades just hitting wood.

Unless you are shooting competitively and want that extra edge from keeping the barrel down I'd stay away from porting. I sold a ported over/under Citori because I could only use it on the range - no one wanted to be near it in the field when it went off, including me. But it is just a screw in, so can just try it and see.

Yes, you can. Mix and match the brands/materials, too, for varied effects. Some tiers like to use Maxima for the butt ends. Google search "leader recipes" for some good info. Typically use barrel or surgeon's knot to join the pieces, but be careful about making too big a jump between line sizes.

I use a cargo carrier at times, too. Be sure to wrap it up completely (after it has cooled) to keep the road grime and exhaust fumes off it.

You might consider a replacement synthetic or laminate stock. if you plan to pass this down through the family yourself it would be a shame to cut down the original stock.

I have wanted a .260 Rem for whitetails for a long time. Would be excellent in a Rem Model 7 but I keep wavering between that and something with a 24" barrel. But then, there's also the 6.5x55. Decisions, decisions ....

Go with a high sensitivity receiver if you spend most of the time in canopy. The low sensitivity are okay for fields and light cover. I have a Garmin etrex venture HC that works great. Batteries don't last long, though. I think it runs $170.

.35 Whelen (.35-06).

To get back in touch with nature and myself. The challenge. The companionship. The pleasure of watching bird dogs work. The meat.

Where Under Armour and similar products, like the redhead EnduraSkins, shine is wicking moisture away from your skin. That helps keeps you warmer, especially after working up a sweat still hunting, hiking, or climbing a stand. Still need over layers that wick and breath. Hard to beat fleece and wool for that. The modern breathable outer layers I've tried keep the wind out but just can't keep up with a lot of sweat so need to be vented (or just left off) until the moisture dissipates. Still best to just change out of anything that gets wet, including socks. Like stated above, keeping your core warm so blood circulates to your extremities is key.

Been such a long time ... thinking one at a time in the woods. I don't like to just dump them out. Got to savor each bite. Though I do prefer deviled chicken and ham.

Not sure I'd want to be wearing that around hungry aggressive deer and squirrels.

Yes, and do consider a ground blind. Makes it much more comfy for the kids ... and you.

Nice job, hjohn. And congrats, again, on a great buck.

Depends on the gun, the round, the purpose, and your preferences. Do you have a specific gun/round you are trying to set up? Open fields or woods? If you have a fairly fast round, sighting in 1" high at 100 should let you aim dead on at a deer and hit vitals out to 200 yards or more. Something slower, like a .30-30 flat-nose, might limit you to 175 yards or so. Going to +1.5" or 2" increases this range. There is a concept called Maximum Point Blank Range (MPBR). Based on ballistics you set up at a certain impact point which allows you to aim dead on and hit vitals, as long as the deer is within the MPBR. Makes it fairly easy to get a good shot off. If you shoot longer range you might want to zero at 200 yards (or more) and check the impact points at closer and longer ranges. The scope you have might impact this choice. No matter what your set up you should check the impact points at intervals out to the maximum range you will shoot.

Don't bother with the metal eye hook things. Just learn the proper knots and save your money.

They are quite intriguing. I want to try one out. But I will wait to see how composite frames perform for other hunters. Aluminum frames are forgiving when you bang them around. Nick a composite limb and you have a problem. Wondering if the composite frames will be the same.

seadog - it's a Prusic knot. Easy name to forget. WVOtter - just search for it. Works quite well. Definitely need to be using a safety harness attached to the tree while climbing up and down. That should be in the climber instructions.

Well worth any price at times!

buckeye - I am in the same situation. I also have a dual fuel lantern and am looking for a new stove. Nice thing about propane is that it burns hotter. The propane cannisters are also convenient. Just not sure how long a cannister lasts. Anyone have some experience?

I love hunting with a handgun, but ultimate test? That may suit his standard but may not be acceptable for anyone else. Figure you have to be accurate within your confident range. That might depend on the caliber, the barrel length, whether or not it is scoped, and how good your eyes are. Open sights are probably no different than bow range for most of us (but look up Elmer Keith). Set your own standards.

Seriously? Maybe if I can find some local PETA-philes, they'll take the flies, mosquitos, deer ticks, and carpenter ants off my hands. What happens if their kid gets head lice?

Go to a rifle range and look for the guy with a muzzle brake. There will be probably be empty benches on either side of him. Sit down next to him for a few shots. Stay behind that brake, or the muzzle blast and unburned powder will also get you. Then try to maintain your decency when you stumble away.

Ditto the above. Our voices do matter and can make a difference. Our actions are even more meaningful. I think many people are shell-shocked with the direction this country took after the last election. Timing is now. I'm looking for some new leaders to emerge in this coming election. Glad to see you are going to be in the middle of it all. I wish you the best. Please keep us up to date with progress. But don't neglect your precious and revitalizing time in the woods.

Foolproof. Well, almost.

Ditto. Might also have someone else shoot it just to verify. Also, make sure the scope base and rings are torqued. If you have some scope parallax you might be moving the aim point a bit between each shot. Parallax can make it difficult to hold one's eye in the same repeatable position for each shot.

Not sure how cantaloupe and rusty steel relate to the real world but they sure spent a lot of money on broadheads and busted shafts.

One of the few movies I actually have on DVD. Offbeat and just fun. One of the greatest movie lines ever, Renmar describing the opening day of deer season, "... like Christmas, but with guns." Lucky for me that Jeff Daniels's Purple Rose theatre is in Michigan so I have seen the prequel on stage and will, hopefully, see the third version this year. http://www.purplerosetheatre.org/plays/escanaba.shtml

I think many of them are so far out of touch with nature that it borders on the pathetic.

Congrats! 205 pounds! What are these bucks eating? That sure is an interesting way to double lung a buck. The story will come back, even better than the first draft.

For folks in Michigan .... Some people think it is legal to shoot a dog chasing a deer. Here's an excerpt from an LEO on michigan-sportsman.com: Legally you can not shoot a dog chasing wild deer. Only a law enforcement officer can shoot a dog chasing deer. A citizen can only shoot a dog that is harming livestock or attacking a person. Many officers will not shoot a dog chasing deer because they will lose a law suit, unless it is a last resort, me included. I enjoy giving the owner a ticket for not taking care of their dog much better.

Donuts ... but they stay in the camp/truck. I take protein bars, trail mix, and/or sandwiches. Hmmm, licorice sounds good ... next time.

I am curious what the insides of the deer looked like after getting hit at fairly close range with a .22-250. I take it you're not using ballistic tips.

libertyfirst - I have to try that. Sounds great. I'll try it with some elk thawing in the fridge, though. One of my favorite ways is to just fry venison in bacon grease. I will sometimes slow cook a roast with root veggies.

Of course!

Whatever suits your fancy. Could make cases for and against either one. Same goes for a pump, or a lever, or a single shot ... even for a double.

Sunday - yes. In city limits - bowhunting only, but controlled hunts. Also pests with air guns should be okay.

There are a few things I have learned in my life. I have been in many positions in many places. Seems no matter where I've been there is always someone who just grinds on me. He moves on. I rejoice. But someone else then takes his place. I go somewhere else, and there he is again, just with a different face. Some call these people Masters ... masters of getting under our skins. I am convinced they are there to teach us something about ourselves. And until we learn those people will always show up, no matter where we go, because the one person who always follows us anywhere we go is our own self. This blog is faceless, but rich with interaction and information. It is so easy to just write what is on our minds, but once it is out there we can't retract it. I don't know who said count to 10 before speaking, but he was very wise. I've read kids being kids at times, but also being exceptionally mature. I've also read adults being exceptionally childish. There is much to learn here that far outweighs any negatives. As one man I worked for once told me, "Don't let one person ruin your perspective of the entire organization." Running away from our problems and certain people leads us no where. We don't solve our problems and we don't grow. I hope you stay - you make this site richer with your presence.

Bow - early bow season temperatures are much milder in Michigan than during rifle and muzzleloader seasons.

Deer slayer - I appreciate your enthusiasm. Go to it. But note the nomenclature. There is a difference between bullets, cases/brass, and cartridges. We usually handload new bullets (the projectiles) into used cases/brass making reloaded cartridges.

Also much easier to take out of your own ear, finger, nose, etc. Every once in awhile I'll break a hook completely off while pinching it down. Best to do it before tying the fly or, if bought, before hitting the water.

Roadtrip then? Have bow, will travel.

Using a .32 Win Spl Winchester Model 94 this season because it was my dad's rifle. I've always used my other rifles but it's this gun's chance this year.

Tailgate up or covered with a tarp. Respect for the animal and for other people. Keep the dirt and road grime off of it. If it is worth showing then it can be taken to a buck pole where others that appreciate it are congregated.

A rifle that is accurate, precise, and repeatable makes a person a better shot. Can focus on what the shooter is or isn't doing rather than questioning whether or not the gun was to blame for an errant shot.

People seriously underestimate the penetration of a .22. But, if you don't hit square ... all bets are off. .22s are very good at glancing off hard objects.

I wear the AO range type when bird hunting. Also have worn Walker Game Ears while deer hunting. I have high frequency hearing loss from shotgunning and from working in deafening auto plants. Wish I had it back. Tinnitus is also quite distracting at times. Protect your hearing while you're young. When you're 50 you don't want to be constantly repeating, "Whadya say, Honey?" But, then again, maybe you do.

Failsafes were great. They were the most accurate bullets out of one of my guns. The copper petals could sheer off but the claim was that helped insure penetration. Never recovered a bullet to find out. As idduckhntr said, Winchester has discontinued them. Superseded by the XP3. Only available in their high end Supreme Elite series. Probably be awhile before the bullets will be available for handloaders (probably thru Nosler).

Now you're talkin' ... that does sound like a great weekend.

Michigan, but lived in Louisiana, Ohio, Kansas, California, Hawaii, and overseas.

Michigan - yep, though they still haven't shown them to be naturally reproducing. Noticed that cougars are on our DNR's list of protected wildlife.

DNR hotline number is programmed into my cell phone. Maybe climb up a tree, do some fawn in distress bleats, and take pictures when the does descend on him.

Way to go! Need any help clearing off some more deer from the farm? :-) I could only hunt Saturday. Got up at 2AM and got home at 11PM. Almost forgot what frozen toes and fingers felt like. Been chasing a buck on public land that is giving me fits.

Try the JBM ballistics calculator: http://www.jbmballistics.com/ Click on the blue "Trajectory" link near the top.

Just got an e-mail today. A couple has to find a home for their inseparable 3-year old black and yellow labs because they are moving overseas. They are located in southeatern Michigan. I don't think they are hunters. If you are interested send me an e-mail: miscellimail@gmail.com

Make mine the Willys. Absolutely. Hummer is too wide, too tall, too heavy, too uneconomical, and too hard to see out of. We'll see what happens now that the Chinese are buying the brand.

How long are they now? They should only be an inch or two past the rest at full draw.

I really like the Bridgestone Dueler A/T Revos. Quiet on the road but ample traction off road. Firestone Destination A/Ts are also an excellent tire. Check out the reviews on tirerack.com.

Trout ... but it's more about where they are found and how they are caught than the fish themselves.

Parboil, bread, and fy.

I guess the Scout knife doesn't count. First one was a Craftsman 5" SS clip point fixed blade with Delrin handle, stacked brass and leather guard, and aluminum pommel. Worked great on squirrel and bobwhite.

Memorize the instructions that came with the stand and practice. Here's some keys points from my experience: Pick a tree ahead of time and prepare it. Pick a tree that is fairly uniform in diameter, otherwise the platforms will tilt downward when in position. Stay away from hickories or trees with smooth bark, especially when wet or icy. Remove anything around the base that could snap, crackle, or pop. Clear limbs and shooting lanes. Try to silence any loose metal that could ring if hit. Try wrapping in cloth tape. To keep from getting bopped in the head attach the lower before the upper, but make sure the upper is firmly in place so that it doesn't fall onto the lower while you are setting up. Set the cables as short as possible, tilting the free end of the stand upwards. This helps compensate for the decreasing diameter of the trunk. If at the top and the platform is tilting downward, work back down the tree until level, or go all the way to the ground, tighten the cables, and start over. Attach the straps connecting the lower to the upper, loosen to most of their length. Attach the harness to the tree, not the stand, and use it while climbing. Visually make sure the stand is biting fully into the tree before gradually putting weight onto it. At the top, level the lower and upper. Afix the harness to the tree above to just allow sitting. Tighten the straps attaching the upper and lower platforms. This will keep the top platform from falling as long as there is weight on the lower. Always keep weight on the lower. Set up straps and hooks to hold pack, gun/bow, and stuff. I tie one end of parachute cord to my gun/bow and the other to my upper stand, pulling them up when I get to the top. Same with my pack. I remove the cords. Do not let the cords dangle - imagine if a big buck wandered under the tree, got tangled in the cords, and cut away at full speed. I have a pocket knife and a phone/two-way radio in an upper pocket, not in the pack. I want to be able to reach both if I am dangling from the harness. A harness can cut off circulation to the legs and still cause death. Reverse to get down, being sure to lower the pack and gun/bow to opposite side of the tree. I tripped once getting out of my stand and stepped on my bow, dislodging the bow sight ... on the first day of bow season. Safe hunting ....

Check out the Cabela's Meindl boots. More than you want to spend but the best boots I have ever owned. I really appreciate being able to untie them and have them practically fall off my feet - that is worth the price alone. Uninsulated, 200, 400, or 800 grams insulation.

Sunny and a bit chilly ... supposed to get down to 14 degrees F on Sunday morning. Figure the deer will be looking for some early sun to warm up.

I envy you. Would make it easier finding the deer right now. Got excited over a few snowflakes last weekend but nothing on the ground.

This time of year he might only venture back into the field at night. I'd scout to it out from a distance first. If he doesn't come in until nightfall figure out where he is coming in and where he might be staging. Set up by that staging area or further back along that trail. You also need to figure a quiet way out.

I do like the system DEP used in his video. But I like the Spyderco stones because of their flat sides. http://www.agrussell.com/spyderco-sharpmaker-triangle-sharpener/p/SPC204MF/ With some of today's blades best to use diamond or ceramic stones.

Wow! I have to check out that carbon fiber bow. Can't be cheap, though.

Have fun. Grouse comes second to nothing for fun - king of game birds, after all. It's been a great season for grouse and woodcock in Michigan ... but I won't admit to how many we've bagged.

Leatherman Charge TTi.

I use a shoot & clean break-in for all my new rifles. I also use J-B bore cleaning compound. Not sure that it really helps. Makes me feel better, though. I don't bother with breaking in in-line muzzleloaders - mine are just going to see plastic sabots. Though, I do clean the bore with J-B a few times.

It is confusing. In Michigan we have creeks running into very small rivers that then run into the Great Lakes, that, of course run into the Atlantic. The Big Two-Hearted River is only 25 miles long but empties into Lake Superior. The St. Clair and Detroit Rivers very short, and just connect Lake St. Clair to the Great Lakes. In Ohio the substantial Miami River flows into the Ohio River and then into the Mississippi on to the Gulf. The creeks there seem as big as the rivers in Michigan. Only thing for sure, as explained to me by an old farmer, is that it takes just one cow to make a creek into a crick.

A Sears (Marlin) .22 lever action - must have been 5 or 6 years old. It's my mom's gun, but I keep it at my house.

I'd get good binoculars first. You'll never regret that purchase. Nice to know exactly what you are shooting at across that bean field. Save the rangefinder for latter. That being said, I never regretted the purchase of my rangefinder, either, but use it mostly for archery. Shouldn't need a rangefinder for up to 250 yards if you set up for a 200 yard zero.

Red diamonds rather than dots? Or red dots in a diamond shape?

Model 7 in .260 Remington. Light maneuverable bolt gun, but low recoiling round that'll reach out there. Good in the woods or across fields.

Not only did I get skunked but I got kicked in the groin - twice. A buck I have been after got to his spot before me. I didn't see him until he was heading for the popples. That's what I get for leaving my binocs on the kitchen counter. Another morning went the long way around to a new stand location. There's a pond nearby. I never thought about the beavers. They let everything in earshot know I was there and kept at it. I might just take up trapping this winter. A couple of beaver pelts would look satisfying on a friend's cabin wall.

My Meindl boots, LL Bean hunter orange upland shirt, Cabela's waterproof insulated gloves, Mathews bow, and Garmin GPS.

I was at an archery range last year when the skies just opened up. I stood under a tree to wait it out. Three deer came out and started chasing each other around, in the downpour. They were enjoying it.

October lull is here.

The concept still doesn't make sense to me. I can understand reducing weight while maintaining rigidity and potentially dissipating heat faster, but it seems having varying thicknesses along the bore would create problems with uneven barrel expansion on a varmint gun. Still scratching my head on this one. And why did they make a brake standard? Some people might be returning it just because of the noise.

Also let her know that they will nest up to 5 or 6 times a year - more prolific than rabbits.

Cost and price are not necessarily proportional. The market drives a lot of the pricing decisions. Direct and indirect costs are taken into account, of course, but prices are typically based on what the market will bear. There is also suggested retail price versus the actual price the store will charge. Some of us still remember when everything was sold at suggested retail prices. That was pre-Wally World.

Yes it does. Adding chokes will probably cost more than the gun. If you like the gun try buying a new barrel with threaded chokes.

Ditto - check out your broadheads at all ranges. I still practice with my field points, though. I color my practice broadheads with permanent magic marker so that I don't accidentally use them for hunting.

Cabela's and LL Bean are the best. I think Cabela's has the best store brand items - would recommend them to anyone. They seem to spec and test their products better and have a great return policy. After all, they take pride in the family name. Their name is on the label.

If there is a coyote there has to be something to eat - hopefully, more than mice and voles. But if I am not seeing anything I just move on, but come back in a few years to check again. Game populations are cyclic.

I understand they are a strain of gray squirrels. Years ago they were rare around here. Always thought they looked unique and cool. Now it depends on the location. My old yard had a mix of gray, black, fox, and dreaded red squirrels. Further north, I see only fox and red. In our northern woods I see mostly black and fox. Except for the red they all seem to taste the same - just more meat on the fox.

A old Savage 24, preferably in .22LR over .410 (or 20 ga.). Can use the shotgun when shooting at them in open branches. Use the .22 when they they are against the truck or a large limb. You don't want to shoot a .22 straight up at a squirrel without some wood behind to stop the bullet.

I know a guy that fattens his pond bass with hot dogs. If you want to catch one of the big ones it's what you use. But it felt like using dogs was cheating so just used something else.

The Duke. He was a hero to a couple of generations of boys that became men.

They have been a HUGE problem in the Great Lakes. Toxic feces as well as eating habits, especially with perch populations. Unfortunately, covered under migratory birds so all control measures are federal rather than local. If only they were tasty.

Also used to change the sight plane - take a gander a some specialized trap guns where the back of the rib in much higher than at the muzzle.

I leave a roll up plastic deer sled in my truck. Cabela's carry two different types, Dead Sled and Deer Sleigh'r. I have the Sleigh'r. I am usually no more than 2 or 3 miles from the truck and it is worth the extra trip after finding the deer. Probably the best $30 I have ever spent for deer hunting. I got it after I had a heart attack, and have no problem bringing out a buck on my own with this. Best to unroll and roll it in the opposite direction to straighten it out before using.

Catch and release for trout and bass. I eat the salmon, walleye, crappie/bluegill, catfish, etc.

In streams anything over 10 inches is nice. Anything over 18" is brag worthy. I think the small ones are the most beautiful fish on earth.

Nightcrawler hunting with a flashlight at night after a good summer rain is almost as much fun as fishing. Frogs croaking, cicadas singing, maybe lightning bugs glowing ... pretty cool.

Young stream brook trout - they are living jewels.

The "AR" designation doesn't help. Yes, I know it means Armalite. But many assume it means Assault Rifle or Automatic Rifle.

Might consider a Ruger Single Six Convertible in .22 LR and .22 Magnum. The Hunter model comes with an integral rib that accepts tip-off or Ruger scope ring bases. New ones aren't cheap but you might be able to find a used one out there. Could also just buy a standard model in .22 LR, .22 Mag, or .17 HMR. Stick with the new models if you can. The transfer bar mechanism allows you to safely carry a full-loaded cylinder. On older models you'll want to carry with an empty chamber under the hammer.

Would be a fun change of pace. Does it come with a vial of tree frog poison?

You can pick up a decent older Win 94 (.30-30 or .32 WS) or Marlin 336 (.30-30 or .35 Rem) fairly inexpensively (~$275-$375). Problem is that the older ones are nicely made guns and once you get one it is hard to consider it a beater. For more money and stopping power, consider a used Marlin 444 (.444 Marlin) or stainless steel Marlin 1895 (.45-70/.450 Marlin) - avoid the ported barrels if you value your hearing. Also, Savage 99s in any caliber (some are very desirable so expensive). The old Winchester Big Bores are excellent but you need to reload. They are not beaters since they are rare and the prices are escalating. This should give you an idea of asking prices from a reputable gun shop. Condition varies tremendously. http://www.williamsgunsight.com/gunsights/808usedrifles.htm

Reading this again, hunterG is not asking about mechanicals, but is looking for info on: Cut on contact, like Steel Force or Zwickey, versus chisel tips, like Thunderhead or Muzzy MX-4, on thick-skinned heavy-boned critters, not deer.

Funny you should ask. I was thinking about that myself. After watching what has been going on in states with wolves I don't think other states want anything to do with them. But, wolves don't recognize state borders, so good luck. Upper Michigan has wolves and they are working their way south. A few years ago two were seen and photographed just a couple miles from here in southeastern Michigan (I saw them and also saw one up north). Just wait till one strolls down Michigan Avenue in downtown Chicago, trailing someone's labradoodle. Coyotes have been seen in downtown Detroit. But so have deer. Supposedly, protected raptors have more of an impact on our game birds than the coyotes. Seems we would learn something about predators through all this.

Venison on the hoof.

A longer season will give more opportunity for more hunters to get out in the field so that is a positive, even though most deer are taken on opening day. Another positive is to get a better handle on CWD. Primary means is reducing the herd substantially in the CWD areas ... bucks and does. Some hunters get upset because they see less deer in those areas. They need to look at the bigger picture and sacrifice the numbers for awhile.

40? That is a heatwave.

I have a badger bomber hat. Super warm and a lot of girls come up and rub it. Love to see badger mounts with the claws bared. Maybe one with the head and front paws coming out of the hole, and use the hide for something else.

I don't think FMJs are specifically illegal in Michigan, but it is not recommended. Some varmint hunters use solids and FMJs to minimize pelt damage.

They can't seem to get it into their heads that these animals are prey. They are food to something out there that wants to eat them. They have well developed capabilities to avoid capture, and also the capabilities to reproduce excessively. Predators keep them in control. Humans, whether they accept it or not, are predators, and we were meant to eat them. That is why God made them so tasty.

Just bobwhites for me.

Get experience and a reputation so that people are willing to pay you to take them. The difference between an amateur and a professional is the paycheck.

Illegal to shoot a cougar in Michigan.

The Rem 504 is a very fine gun. Nice find. I also suggest gunbroker.com. Could also take it to a good gun shop or Cabela's Gun Library but you won't get as good a price - maybe better if you trade it in for something else.

Skittering a black elk hair caddis might work. But if the trout are coming out of the water they might be hitting emerging pupae rather than targeting caddis flies above the water. Caddis flies hatch and fly off very quickly once the pupae hit the surface film. Might try dead drifting an emerging pupae pattern and letting it swing toward the surface at the end of the drift. Rather than guessing try using a bug net in the water to see if there are pupae and note their color.

I presume that you need a Hunter's Safety course to get your hunting license. No matter what you're using you still need the license. Besides, Hunters Safety will just be great to get under your belt.

Remember this F&S article a few years back? http://www.fieldandstream.com/articles/hunting/whitetails/2004/11/how-cook-four-gourmet-recipes-gut-pile?page=0%2C0

Peep sites. Much more accurate for me than standard open iron sites.

New Zealand red stag. Would flyfish there, too, but for the last fishing experience, I keep changing my mind. Right now it is Patagonia trout, though Deeter makes a case for Golden Dorado.

Lighter gun will give you more kick, of course, so auto would be a good choice. As suggested above, there are youth models with shorter stocks, which is what a smaller person really needs. The Weatherby SA-08 is very light, comes in a youth model, and is reasonably priced (nice gun). More money, but I think the Beretta 391 is available with a youth stock. If you go with a pump, like an 870 Youth or cut down stock, can also look at Limbsaver and similar pads to reduce recoil.

Another John Browning classic.

Congrats to Wesley ... and to you. Created a new hunter! And, yes, Cabela's is a place I have always like to deal with.

If stuck because of black powder fouling then soak that end of the barrel in hot soap and water for a couple of hours, swishing it around every once in awhile. If from rust, soak it with penetrating oil, like Kroil, to loosen the rust, but remove all traces of oil afterward to keep from contaminating powder. Use a perfectly sized wrench. If stripped then an Easy Out (might have to drill the hole out more to fit). Replace the nipple if damaged. And always use anti-seize grease when reassembling. You could heat the area around the nipple a bit but if it gets to this point, just to be safe, take it to a gunsmith.

Forgot about that - will have to go back and see the answers - should be worth a few more laughs.

Congrats! Reminds me - I saw an incredible full croc mount at a local taxidermist. Croc was mounted almost vertically, tail up, so took up very little room. A toothy tiger fish was being mounted in its jaws. Thinking a Florida bass mounted in your gator's jaws would look impressive (or perhaps a python).

Variable. I like the flexibility. I have a 1-4x on a woods deer rifle and a 1.5-6x on a in-line muzzleloader. The lower ranges are extremely effective in the woods, yet I can easily use them for longer ranges.

I agree with hunt3r - lack of detent clicks was very irritating. Same goes for the VX-1. VX-II is the lowest grade Leupold I would buy.

Glock? Kel-Tec is about as red, white & blue as you can get.

Simple is usually best. Grilled, just brush with olive oil and salt and pepper. Maybe some seafood seasoning for something different. Pan fried - dredge in flour with salt and pepper (maybe some corn meal), and fry in butter and oil. Deep fried - beer or tempura batter.

I went to a hunters ed course over the weekend. There were some tiny 10 year olds that could not handle 12 or 20 gauges. They went through the shotgun sessions using Topper .410s. They might not have been able to hit clays with it right off the bat but it was good for them to get familiar with gun handling, a bit of recoil, and the noise. As for proficiency? Who knows where they will go from here. I will say that I was better hitting with a .410 as a kid than I am now. That said, I do think 20 gauge makes a better starter shotgun, or a 28 gauge if you can afford it.

The local Optimists put them on when I lived in southeaatern Ohio - could win a slab of bacon. Shot a target with any shotgun and their shells. They awarded the bacon to whomever had the most holes on target. Was a blast. Locals probably complained about the noise on Saturday mornings.

Some people just have to learn by doing and failing. I took some expensive glass and viewed it side-by-side with lesser scopes that I liked while they were mounted. The difference was striking. Clarity was the biggest factor. I am keeping that glass. The others, still good, might find their way to eBay.

They might be the ones willing to provide the products for the tests. Looks like there are four testers per product so they must be willing to provide four or five, probably at no cost. Have to presume Victorinox doesn't see the need, won't supply the products, or was never contacted.

Take a look at the old-style tools by Gransfors Bruks: http://www.gransfors.com/htm_eng/index.html Not cheap but the best quality out there. Shaving sharp blades. Might want to get some protective chaps and boots, too. Quite the endeavor - always wanted to do that ... heavy buggers, though. Have fun!

You might just find that your 20 yard pin is very close to your 10 yard pin, if not right on. If you set up for 20, 30, and 40, then set up for 50 yards, too. It's good to practice at the longer range - seems to make the 30 and 40 yard shots easier. Makes you honest with yourself about your true capabilities, especially in a crosswind.

So, where do the people come from who do the gear reviews in the mag each month?

I love to flyfish for trout, but when the days get short and the temps get crisp, the woods become irresistible. Right now, as the days lengthen and the ice melts you can catch me false casting with an imaginary rod. So ... it depends.

If you're sitting in a tree stand with no wind your scent will just hang thick all around you. A deer wandering under will likely bust you. A sudden breeze will also move a lot of that heavy scent a good long distance. So, even with no wind, I try to continue thinking about the prevailing winds that can kick up any time.

A friend replanted a seedling in his front yard years ago (always wished he had planted one when his son was born). The oak must be about 20 feet tall and had acorns a couple years ago.

Depends on what you want to do with it. If you're shooting a lot of one or two specific loads, like for pistol practice or competition, then the progressive. If you're tweaking loads and aren't loading hundreds of rounds at a time, the single stage. No matter what, the single stage will always come in handy.

If you're hunting the same small area, give it a rest. If possible, check it periodically from a distance to see if they come back. Stay downwind.

Austen & Halleck ... but they were bolt actions and new innovations by, especially, T/C, drove them out of the market.

Even with a modern ventilated 4-season tent I get frozen condensation by the ceiling vents. Hot air rises, condenses and freezes .. .then, when warmed, melts and drips.

I wonder if the states will soon consider trapping since the actual hunters' take is so low. Perhaps the numbers will increase as more people head out in the field for other game.

In my pocket, a Queen Cutlery Small Game Bird Knife with cocobolo scales and D2 blade. Surprising how often that bird gut hook comes in handy. In the car, a Gerber Gator gut hook folder - in case of an accident causing stuck seat belts.

Seems the weather is heating up pretty quickly during the day. Too bad, since next week will be much cooler. With these temps I'd butcher it asap. Many people like to age the meat, but in much cooler temps. I don't bother anymore. My butcher thinks aging venison is a waste of time, but then again, he doesn't have a large cooler available to hang a lot of deer. As far as getting into the stand ... It's been getting light around 7AM, so I would be in stand no later than 5:30AM. If the stand is next to a crop field just be sure not to disturb them on the way in (use a green or red light if you need one). Must be the early season youth hunt. Using a bow or a gun? Good luck!

A Maxi-Ball or Maxi-Hunter should be more effective than a round ball. A .50 cal lead round ball weighs 175 gr. A Maxi-Ball weighs 375 gr and a Maxi-Hunter 350 gr. Both the conicals have much better ballistic coefficients so should be better for longer ranges. With a ball you're limited to about 80-100 yards. With a conical perhaps 50% more. The heavier bullets do kick more. T/C would only recommend their 250gr Shock Wave sabot if it normally works in the 1:48. Like with rifles, faster twist rates will help stabilize longer bullets. Get heavier/longer bullets and the 1:48 might not stabilize the bullet. My current traditional has a 1:66 twist, so I use round ball. My modern has a 1:28 twist so I use sabots. Do not expect the round balls to exit. Not sure about the conicals, though I wouldn't expect it. Some saboted jacketed bullets will.

With a mountain bike I could sleep in an extra half hour getting to a couple of remote spots. I have run down trails and surprised deer. I imagine the same would occur on a mountain bike - little chance to safely stop and shoot, though.

Hunter makes some inexpensive plain leather holsters that are pretty good quality. I have one for a Ruger Blackhawk. Try Cabela's - they also carry other brands.

Is this just hypothetical, or do you actually have pins set up at these distances? At 10 and 20 yards I use the same pin. The rule of thumb is to aim based on the horizontal measured distance rather than the distance measured from the stand to the deer (the hypotenuse, or C, of Pythagorean theorum). In reality, unless you are less than 10 yards or so you should be able to shoot dead on at the measured distance. The farther you get the less the difference. Best thing to do is to get up on stand or on a similarly high platform and check point of impact at different ranges, including very close (I used a high deck for awhile).

Depends ... but the bead head Hare's Ear Nymph imitates a lot of different bugs on the stream bed.

Blood tracking light - no more effective than a strong white beam. Super-insulated outwear for sitting in treestands - toasty until the cold wind blew through.

A friend used two or three wraps of silver rod wrapping thread covered in clear epoxy. Looks very nice and professional. Several metallic colors are available. Can get the same thread and epoxies used on many factory rods. I am doing this to a fly rod. Might need to seal the thread to maintain the color before covering with epoxy. Also need to turn the rod every few minutes for a couple of hours until the epoxy sets (or set up something like a rotisserie motor to slowly spin the rod).

Was hoping someone could answer this question, too, but I wonder if there is really a definite answer. Some guns might still be pretty accurate, even with a wide velocity spread. Around here we could be hunting in 80 degree temps as well as sub-zero, so I tend toward using the Hodgdon "extreme" powders. Even so, last year I my groups got bigger in single digit temps using H4895. But perhaps that was because I was freaking cold.

I have a Rem 760 - the 7600 is an evolution of that design. I like the quieter pump mechanism in the 7600. They are surprisingly accurate and quick handling. They carry well and are very fast to get back on target since your hands never leave the rifle. Very dependable. Nice that the action is covered and protected from the weather. And I personally like detachable magazines. The only thing I don't like is the Monte Carlo stock. Gets the face more aligned to the scope but notice how high they had to make the front and rear sights. Another nice thing, they made some in .35 Whelen.

Be sure to bring mosquito repellent. I have never seen so many so aggressive - couldn't stay in the woods more than a few minutes this past weekend. They were even landing on a Bugs Off shirt and biting through blue jeans

Four. Fifth is too low on my new sight. Used to setup at 15, 25, etc. but switched to 20, 30, etc. last season.

Very, very nice gift. Sounds like the model that was marketed with the Sako Quad with color coordinated rings and barrels. Can set it up for four different barrels (like the Quad) or for four bullets with different points of impact on the same rifle. I suppose setting it up for different ranges works, too. I have a Kahles but a different model. Mine is an exceptional scope (TDS reticle).

If it is an old muzzleloader that hasn't been used in awhile you might want to have it checked out. At least shine a light through the bore and nipple opening and look down the barrel. If left unattended and uncleaned substantial corrosion can form in the breech/barrel/nipple. Generally, 1:60 twist or greater are best with round balls. 1:48 or so can use conicals/round balls. Below that (1:24, 1:32, etc.) are best with sabots or conicals.

Most leaders come with a loop. You can tie a perfection loop into the end of the flyline and do a loop to loop connection. I don't care for the shrink-on loops since they tend to sink. You can pick up some 30 or 40 lb Hy-Flote line from Orvis and tie on a short section with a nail knot and tie a perfection loop on the other end - about 4" long total (Rich Merlino at Orvis Royal Oak, MI came up with this great idea). Otherwise, best to stick with a nail knot. A small tube or knot tying tools will help with this.

I try to avoid it once the stand is set up. But, I have gone to my stand on opening day and noticed that someone else had been there. But what can I say, it was on public land and the law says it is okay. I just don't do that to others hunters, though.

Not sure if you are aware but there ae some pretty good contour maps of Mullet Lake online (just search Mullet Lake contour map). Some even show the best area for certain fish at particular times of the year. There are a lot of points and weedy areas that would be worth trying if you can't get out on a boat. Also the river mouths and bridges.

Those dive bombing barn swallows might have saved you from a few mosquito bites.

Mathews.

Opening day. To rephrase Remnar, in Escanaba in da Moonlight ... it's like Christmas with bows.

I'll guess - Just My Not So Very Humble Opinion

Oh, yes. Chills or a feeling of presence. In southern Ohio there are lots of Indian mounds. We hunted areas close to them when we were kids. Go by one and you just knew to give the area respect. That was before we even knew what they were. Can also walk through certain areas of the woods and fields, day or night, and get that feeling. Never anything threatening, just something there.

Can't say there's a wrong way, when you're keeping the knife going away from you or anyone else (I think pulling a gut hook toward you is easier, which is one of the reasons I don't like it on my knife blade). I don't split the pelvis bone, just cut around the anus, tie it off, and pull it through (a longer knife helps for this). I keep looking at Butt Out tools but just can't get myself to buy and use one. I noticed they have a new and improved model this year.

Yes, I think stabilizers are worth it - better sound and vibration damping, better balance, and most of all, smaller groups. Stick with a short one for hunting. If you can, take your cased bow and some arrows to a local shop (or Bass Pro, Gander Mountain, Cabela's, etc.) and try out a few before buying.

Small thermos with coffee or an energy drink. I sometimes only get a couple hours sleep before heading out so napping is often inevitable. Strap in tight.

Ask them how they can defend their position. Unfortunately, most anti-hunters base their position purely on emotion. That is also how PETA/HSUS attacks hunters. The facts just don't matter to them. Though I do remind vegans that plants are alive when they are eaten and that fruits are the wombs of the plants seed.

My heart skipped a beat ... here's a link with a pic: http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=302691

For the price it is very hard to beat tCabela's Guide Series boots. Not completely sold on Scentlock. If you are overly concerned with odor then look at insulated Mucks or Lacrosse Alpha Burleys.

Queens Cutlery bird knife. Use the same for upland. Use various knives for big game, depending on my mood.

A Queen Cutlery D2 bird knife is always with me. Gerber's Gator S30V B&C is my current favorite hunting blade, but I pine for a Dozier, with his D2 blade and cocobolo scales. Fixed blades are so much easier to clean than folders. I love zippers but never another one on my blade - still looking for a thin, lightweight, high quality SS gut hook. Gerber seems to offer the best value. Their shears are also excellent.

I suspect that some retailers spec out products to be manufactured for certain price levels or features. Might have a unique finish, stock, etc. Quality can be perceived differently by various buyers, but I hope the manufacturers tolerate only so much cost-cutting since they still have their reputations to uphold.

Grape jelly meatballs - just do a search on the web. There are a ton of recipes. Basically small meatballs with chili sauce and grape jelly cooked in a crock pot. Add other seasoning, like garlic, onions, or scallions to the meatballs or sauce.

Took a turkey this spring with a 2-3/4" shell in a fixed modified choke gun.

Charlie, I like the way you do things.

I do it out of habit.

If you have one you can crate train. They tend not to go in their beds. Confine her to a section of the crate then gradually increase her space to the rest of the house. Just be sure to take her out often, especially if she starts sniffing around on the floor. My dog only went once in the house.

Surprised they haven't had a "roast" for Freddy, yet.

I've probably chased a few red herrings, but have never seen a blue herring. I presume you mean great blue heron. That would be cool, though a standing blue herring would be something to see.

Incredible. Some of these people have totally lost touch with reality, if they were ever in touch at all.

Surprising what you can learn to do in the dark. But definitely double check with a light - green seems to be more useful than red. Forgetting the strap between the base and seat could leave you stranded up a tree, and forgetting a connection on your harness or a latch on your cable could put you in the hospital or morgue.

Ventilated ribs are also lighter than their solid rib counterparts since some material has been removed. Polymer ribs are specifically for sighting (or looks).

Absolutely the best description of parallax I've seen. Great video. And brilliant marketing. Long form sells.

I think some people have not forgiven Outdoor Life from firing Jim Zumbo.

Harrington & Richardson. You might have heard the single shots called Toppers. I got one for Christmas when I was a kid - the first gun that was truly my own.

Solo, but I am intrigued by cam-and-a-half and would consider one.

Yes, primarily when bowhunting. Use it to check distances to various trees around my stand. Also use it periodically to gauge my guess at objects at various distances.

Try a few at a pro shop. I have several and found that each has different effects on my bow. Ended up using a combination to help both balance and vibration. My groups are noticeably better.

No problems, but I use a fixed blade. Never tried it with mechanicals.

I had a Bushmaster A3. It was okay. I'd probably go with a Rock River Arms next time. If you have some extra cash to part with consider Les Baer.

If I was going to get a new one today it would be the T/C Triumph. It is light, handles and absorbs recoil well, and has that great breech plug system. Plus it will shoot Blackhorn powder. The only thing I don't like is that lever extending down from the trigger guard. Would also be a great excuse to pick up a T/C Encore or G2 Contender.

Your local state wildlife biologist. Give him/her a call - might be pleasantly surprised.

Sitting in a wooden rowboat between my dad and uncle while they were duck hunting. I was only about 6 years old.

No ...but after this incident in NY it wouldn't surprise me if some NY state legislator proposes that, along with microstamping all broadheads and field points.

First time - still hunting.

My bow is more forgiving with a stabilizer. Perhaps that is part mental, but like most things, archery is as much or more mental than it is physical. There is definitely less shock. I use a combination - Limbsaver S-coil in front of the riser (short, so doesn't extend past limbs and sight), and one Limbsaver Modular Node and Enhancer behind the riser. No one said that you had to keep that mass sticking way out front to be effective on a hunting bow.

Nope, just poked a couple holes in my blinds, and my bow case, and pack, and ....

It's an engineering marvel. Magnesium makes total sense. Good sight but lots of parts, lots of adjustments, and lots of things to go wrong. My Optix LE is now sitting in my backup box with .029 and .019 pins. It'll probably end up on e-Bay because I also have another Tru-Glo sight. Replaced it with a simple and inexpensive Tru-Glo 5-pin sight with a rheostat light. Quite satisfied with basic, bright, and easy.

rez - I am glad it is you looking and not me. With one of these in each hand, if they shot the same, I'd go with the DXT, but only because I am partial to the roller guard over the slider. The 4.8 ounce difference in weight wouldn't matter to me and I might make it up in the stabilizer and brass vibration weights anyway.

rez - did you make a decision on a new bow, yet?

Try Steel Force. They have 75 and 85 gr broadheads.

A lot more than recommended. I like what a friend does. Every morning before he gets in his car he takes one shoot at a target in his side yard. Does the same thing when he gets home.

The high lumen Surefires might blind an intruder just long enough to save your life.

At least you are ready for the season. Be sure to check again again when the temps head south. If the weather in Michigan keeps up like it has we are in for a cold winter.

I think trying to understand another person's opinion brings some respect from that person and makes one wiser. And, Sun Tzu was a very wise man ... to know your enemy you must become your enemy.

My single shot Browning B-78 (1885) was the most accurate big game rifle I owned. Others rave about their Ruger 1s. You can reload surprisingly fast. They are simple - very little to go wrong. And they are just fun to shoot.

I avoid estrous scent during the pre-rut but have used doe and buck urine during pre-rut. I'll use an occasional low volume doe bleat or buck grunt while still hunting and will answer a buck's grunt. Interesting, but I rarely hear doe bleats but often hear grunts.

Might not want to hear this ... legal versus morals, I suppose ... but if there is no "consideration" exchanged, which is cash from the buyer and a promise to deliver from the the seller, the seller can do whatever he wants to do, even withdraw on the agreed price. As Jeff4066 points out there are often just too many false promises from buyers over the phone or Internet. That is why when I find something I get over there asap.

Just got back from a 3D course. Talk about stress - swarms of hungry skeeters and no insect repellent.

I grew up around guns, hunting, and fishing so it was just natural. All the men in the family hunted. But none of the women ... go figure ... though they did fish. I'd ignore PETA but they have too much money, too much misguided passion, and have too tight an affiliation with HSUS, an organization with zero ethics.

I found some industrial sheaths that are made to fit over fingers. Those are beige. T/C also make black one sized for muzzleloader barrels. Yes, they look like miniature condoms.

Talk to the guys at Williams Gunsight: http://www.williamsgunsight.com/

Another vote for don't do it! Losing your hearing and alienating your hunting partners isn't worth it.

Has to be irritating, but I agree - shouldn't hurt the gun as long as it is not in the barrel or action.

Try frying them in garlic butter. The more garlic the better. Was a favorite dish when I lived in Europe. Skins can also be dried and fried.

The other hunters have to get on the ball - need to get the numbers up. Have a feeling many got the tag just in case they see a wolf while hunting other game.

99s in .243 are getting harder to find. Prices were going up. These were chambered in the "newer" models. Before buying a 99 I suggest researching their background a bit. Lots of variations were made over the years (brass and steel rotary and box mags, safety locations, cocking indicators, model designations, etc.). Some are more valuable than others. Great and historic gun.

The afternoon before the deer firearms opener I rushed to get everything done at the office, and drove home to pack up everything I had made ready the night before. Headed north. Got there and unpacked before I realized that I had left my back up rifle leaning against the door back home ... right next to my normal shooter. Had a pistol that would have sufficed but lucky that a friend brought up a spare rifle.

All the time - in heavy woods. I see more deer and get more opportunities. Was frustrating one day when I drew on 4 separate deer around some steep wooded hills. Got close and drew but the wind changed direction each time and they busted me before I could release. Another time I came in under a spike just bedding down about 2/3 up a hill. I couldn't move anymore without spooking him, and every other deer in the area. I growled at him. He got up and looked around. I growled again. He quietly slinked away over the hill. Not sure I could have gotten away with that with an old doe.

Hope it helps you to know that we're behind you, beside you, whatever it takes.

Might consider a used Belgium Browning B-25 (Superposed) and get it fitted to you. A new one will cost you quite a bit more than that.

Both are excellent rounds. The .270 Win should save you some cash, even you reload (less case capacity and much cheaper brass). The .270 WSM is faster but the actual differences in drop are pretty insignificant, even at reasonably long ranges. Like they say, the deer won't know the difference. So, I'd say if you want a modern design go with the .270 WSM. If you want something with some history and an extra round in the magazine then go with the .270 Win. A lot of people love both rounds.

I love the look and feel of wood, especially cocobolo or ebony, but on a hard use knife it is hard to beat G-10 scales.

Sorry to hear about this. I missed season a few years back ... was tough not to hunt and had to get out there anyway as soon as I was able, and that was just for squirrels. Darn near killed me but it was worth it. Perhaps it is time to add a crossbow to your tools of the trade. Take care of yourself and get better soon.

Are you thinking .308 Marlin Express or .308 Win? Looks like the Marlins are running about $475-$700. Only new lever action .308 Win I can think of is the Browning BLR. Seems those are normally $500-$800. For used there's the Savage 99, Winchester 88, and Finnwolf. Just saw a beautiful 88 .308 that sold for a bit over $600. Most decent 99s I've seen run $400-$600. Finnwolfs are 3X that.

Since you are still growing consider a model with some draw length adjustment. Otherwise, you could be spending significant money every time you have a growth spurt.

I have a QAD. Not any more accurate than off a prong rest but it sure is nice not having to worry about keeping the arrow on the rest. Will never forget my first shot at a deer with a prong rest - didn't notice the arrow fell off the rest and almost took off a hoof. Mine does make some noise when it slams down but that hasn't been a problem. Need to follow the setup instructions exactly to get the timing down.

MOA is pretty nice for hunting. I think the TSX is exceptional. As recommended in their instructions they sometimes shoot more accurately when seated off the lands. If I remember right they recommend starting at .050" off the rifling. On one gun, my most accurate loads were with the bullet seated even further back from the rifling. A Stoney Point OAL Guage helps with this. Just went looking for it - turns out they are marketed by Hornady now.

I overheard a young employee at a Bass Pro tell some shoppers that Whisker Biscuits weren't worth a hoot. After the store employee walked away I told the shoppers they were just fine, especially for someone new to bowhunting. I should have talked to the kid and his supervisor, but come to think of it I haven't seen him working in the store since.

Does this slug gun have a rifled barrel or choke? Or is it a smoothbore?

Ethics comes down to what you do when no one else is looking. But kids are probably looking so it depends on what one wants to teach them.

Raccoons in the gear; poison ivy toilet paper; black flies all day and skeeters in the evening; Whipoorwills singing their hearts out to their soul mates all night; leaky tent seams; roots and rocks under the sleeping bag; stuck sleeping bag zippers; heavy footsteps and breathing outside the tent; campfire smoke in the eyes and clothes; new friends offering you a beer and a burger; fresh air; warm sunny days; cool cozy nights; brilliant stars that fill the sky; a crackling roaring campfire; no traffic; cooking over a live flame; campfire coffee; the only news report being the day's hunting or fishing stories. I love it.

Nice press. I've got one myself. Congrats! I'd recommened: - Reloading manuals - Dial caliper - Chamfer tool (inside and outside) - Shell holder (if it doesn't come with die set) - Case lube - Case trimmer (might start with a Lee Case Trimmer or RCBS Trim Dies rather than the adjustable tools) - Loading blocks (to hold shells upright and organized) - Powder funnels - Case neck brushes - Primer pocket cleaner - *Extra decapper/decapping pins - *Stuck case removal tool (RCBS or Redding) - Powder trickler (or something similar to add small amounts of powder to scale pan) - Scale (balance beam or electronic) - Safety glasses And later, maybe: - Case tumbler to clean up the cases - Bullet puller - Powder measure dispenser and stand - Hand priming tool - Primer flash hole deburring tool - Hornady Stoney Point OAL Gauge and tapped case - Electronic dispenser/scale * A broken decapper or stuck case will eventually happen and can shut you down until you can replace the pin or unstick the die. Better to be prepared.

Depends ... Queens Cutlery, Gerber, Wolverine (Rapid River), Marbles, Craftsman, Buck, Bokor, Cold Steel, Mora, Leatherman. Hope to get a Bob Dozier this season and sell some of these.

As kids we faked being well because we knew what would come ... an old home remedy. My mom would grind up an apple with about 6 cloves of garlic. She pressed and strained it into a cup and added a few teaspoons of honey and some water. Then she made us drink it. I think throwing it over our shoulders would have sufficed. Just the will from not wanting to drink this stuff was enough to kill the cold bugs.

In high school we camped by farm ponds and rivers for catfish and bass. Many walleye fishermen go out at night. Now, it is usually for brown trout, especially during the hex hatch. One night this year, I was standing dead still in the river, just waiting. Heard something a bit strange so moved. Huge, "KA-SPLASH!" About jumped out of my waders. Beaver. Ruined the night in that run. Went in headfirst on another cold night and had to dry out by campfire.

Treat clothes and boots with Permethrin. Goes under the brand names of Sawyer or Repel Permanone. Soak, aerosol, or pump spray. Bass Pro, Cabela's, REI, etc.

Yes, there are feral hogs in Michigan. Russian boars escaped from high fence areas. Perfect environment for them. Now mixed in with the feral pigs and potbellies that have gone wild. Nice to know there could be heavy duty sharp tusks behind the stump when you're out there hunting morels. I feel under-gunned while bow or upland hunting nowadays. There is a old and long post in the michigan-sportsman.com General Michigan Hunting forum. Here's a link: http://www.michigan-sportsman.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194817 DNR site also discusses feral swine, showing maps of sightings and kills. If you see them shoot them, eat them, and report them. No closed season.