If you're a serious catfish angler around Richmond and points south-where the drawl, the James River, and the whiskered fish themselves all run broader and deeper-sooner or later you'll find your way to the Chester Ice House on Jefferson Davis Highway. They sell block and cubed ice, live eels, four kinds of worms, five sizes of minnows, and all manner of tackle. Sit here long enough, and you're likely to see somebody weigh in a monster catfish. Even if the fish doesn't come, you won't have wasted your time. At Chester's, the vanishing art of porch-sitting is still practiced by master craftsmen.