The fishing may have been better long ago, but that's hard to imagine. There are grass-banked shores full of pike, rocky points guarded by smallmouths, river mouths stacked with walleyes, deep lakes probed by lake trout. You'll rarely catch them all on one trip, given the vagaries of season and weather and trip length. But that's the whole point: Once you've been here, you'll have to return. For more information, contact the U.S. Forest Service regional office (218-626-4300); for trip planning, visit www.canoecountry.com.