(2) Tune the Trigger
Almost every shotgun comes from the factory with a creepy, heavy trigger. A gunsmith can hone most to a crisp, light pull, with 3 to 31/2 pounds being about right for a hunting gun. It's a wonderful, inexpensive improvement, and not just for deer and turkey guns. Wingshooters also benefit from a trigger that has been smoothed by a smith. **(3) Replace a Spring **
If your auto isn't spitting out empties and slamming home fresh rounds with its customary verve, or if your slide action turns sluggish, your gun's springs may have lost their snap. Tucked away in the stock and magazine tube, they are out of sight, out of mind, and probably rusting away. The mainsprings in synthetic-stocked autoloading waterfowl guns are especially vulnerable. It's a simple job to change these components in many guns. The Brownell's catalog (800-741-0015; www.brownells.com) is an encyclopedic source of parts for most popular models. If you'd prefer to go the high-performance aftermarket route, try one of Sure Cycle's (877-337-7873; www.surecycle.com) stainless systems, which are rustproof and increase a gun's cycling speed. **(4) Add a Bead **
Fiber-optic beads are in these days, especially among sporting clays shooters. The bright glow helps you keep track of the muzzle in your peripheral vision as you focus on the target. Aftermarket beads from TruGlo (972-774-0300; www.truglosights.com) and HiViz (800-589-4315; www.hivizsights.com) attach to most ribs without gunsmithing. Some snap on; some use screws; others stick on with magnets. The magnetic beads are fine for target shooting, but they can be knocked off and lost if you rap the barrel sharply against a branch or drag it through the bushes.