Photo by Luke Nilsson
Option A: Spend $150 on a commercial arrow saw. Option B: Build your own saw for $50 and put the $100 you save toward arrows. If you’re an Option B kind of guy, it only takes a trip to the hardware store and an hour of effort.
Screw the cut-off saw to one end of the 1 x 6, about 1⁄4 inch from the bottom and side edges. Make sure the saw is square to the wood or the arrow could angle off the board.
Take the undermount slide (the same kind of track a silverware drawer glides on) and pinch the sides together with pliers to add resistance. This will ensure consistent purchase when you’re cutting multiple arrows to the same length.
Place an arrow in the cut-off saw clamp. Trace the arrow’s path along your board. Screw the slider to the board about 4 inches from the saw along the traced line so the track and clamp are perfectly aligned.
**Step 4 **
Screw the 1 x 2 x 1 block to the back end of the slider. Put an arrow in the saw clamp and make sure it’s true with the torpedo level. Where the arrow nock touches the wood block, drill a 5⁄16-inch hole, 1⁄2 inch deep. Hammer the cable staple across the hole. This will secure your arrow nock.
You can’t measure arrows without a ruler. Cut your yardstick to length and mount it above the slider. Your arrow’s length starts at the saw blade. Speaking of which: The stock blade on the cut-off saw will splinter carbon, so replace it with a special arrow saw blade.
Hammer two nails into the board in a V-shape near the blade tight enough to pinch a wet-dry vacuum hose. This way the carbon dust goes in the trash, not your lungs.
What You’ll Need
-Benchtop cut-off saw ($33; harborfreight.com)
-38-inch 1 x 6
-16-inch Undermount Drawer Slide ($5; lowes.com)
-1 x 2 x 1 wood block
-6-inch torpedo level
-Arrow saw blade ($13; cabelas.com)
-1⁄2-inch cable staple