"Cape buffalo do not bluff a charge. When one of them comes at you, he's not voicing an opinion-he wants to meet you personally." My mental tape recorder played back those words when, on the third morning of a 10-day walking safari in Tanzania's Selous Game Reserve, the trackers found the fresh spoor of a lone Cape buffalo bull. The commentary on the animal's personality had been delivered earlier by my guide, Wayne Stanton, a professional hunter, or PH as they're called in Africa. Several species of plains game were on my license-wildebeest, impala, hartebeest, zebra, warthog-but they were to be afterthoughts in a quest for the black-hided beast that is called Syncerus caffer caffer in scientific argot, mbogo in Swahili, and nyati in Ndebele, and is by any name one of the most dangerous big-game animals on the planet.