Most of the rabbits in that gamebag end up being braised. The loin can be seared quickly over high heat, to good effect, but even with the loin-and especially with the hard-muscled legs of wild rabbits-Kimball prefers the moist texture and concentrated flavors that braising yields. A typical post-hunt supper will see Kimball sautÂ¿Â¿ing the cut-up rabbits in oil and butter with some onions or shallots, covering it all in chicken stock and white wine, and then simmering it in a 250-degree oven-or, as in the recipe below, cloaking the rabbit in red wine, garlic, rosemary, and tomato paste and serving it over pasta or polenta, the template for a classic hunter's dish in northern Italy. Many cooks are under the impression that you can't overbraise meats, which is a bubble Kimball is anxious to pop. "You can definitely overcook rabbit," he cautions. "The dark meat can get ropy and pot-roasty, and the loin can easily dry out." A cook's defense: checking the meat at regular iervals. When it's moist and offers just the barest resistance to the tooth, it's done. This is where a cook can't always trust recipes-most are written with domestically raised rabbits in mind. These tend to be fattier and thus, when it comes to cooking, a little more forgiving than their wild brethren.