Old Rag is a 3,261-foot peak popular for its spectacular views from the summit. We left the motel at 7 a.m., following the directions on my phone. Then we went out of cell range and got lost. Fortunately, we came across a turkey hunter—with a nice gobbler in the back of the truck—who set us straight. By 7:50 we were walking up the mountain. It got steep quick. Everyone was passing us, including families with small children. “It’s okay,” I told Emma. “It’s not a race.” About two-thirds of the way up, there is a rock scramble, where you’re on all fours as you scale boulders, drop down through 10- and 12-foot crevices, and crawl through narrow caves. “I’m never doing this again,” Emma announced after one tricky passage. Two minutes later, after another, she said, “That was awesome.” Such is the mind of a 15-year-old girl.