“Remember the salad I fed you and four other people at dinner last night? I picked all that stuff two hours before dinner: mitzuna [a Japanese salad green], komatsuna flower heads [little yellow flowers, peppery taste], giant mustard leaf, romaine lettuce heads. None of it remotely touched by frost. No spots, no dark edges. Like spring vegetables. So, on the one hand, we had a great salad. On the other, it scares the hell out of me. I shouldn’t be able to pick stuff that hasn’t been damaged by frost at New Year’s.