When I'm butchering a deer, the tenderloins are the first piece of meat to come out, sometimes getting pulled in the field and cooked right there, or soon after. Once we're back at the ranch, the loins, or backstraps, are next. After filleting them off the bone, I cut each strap in 5- to 6-inch-long steaks. These get cooked over indirect heat on the Weber with a little hickory or apple smoke added. Sliced thinly, they're just about the best thing you ever ate.