If you’re still cleaning fish, you can use Chivers’s description as a guide for your own ceviche, or if you’ll be processing some game animals this fall, keep Mick’s lesson at the front of your mind. No matter how closely I cut out my backstraps, there always seems to be some meat left behind. If you’re in the same boat, don’t let it go to waste. You could mince it all up and make venison tartare. Or if raw game is not your thing, grind it separate to build a very special burger.