We did go on a thoroughly enjoyable 90-minute kayak tour in Tarpon Bay yesterday, which Canoe & Kayak magazine rates as one of the top 10 paddling destinations in the country. As we drifted through tunnel-like passes among the mangroves, we saw eagles, ospreys, ibises, egrets, herons, and a 5-foot gator. It was gorgeous. Worse, there were fish breaking all over the place. Our guide said there were more kinds of fish around than he could keep track of, including snapper, sheepshead, mullet, and seatrout. The nice thing about Tarpon Bay Explorers is that they let you keep the boat—as long as you stay in it—for the rest of the day. Upon our return, I tipped the guide, bought a dozen shrimp, and even rented a bait bucket ($2). I bribed Emma with the promise of Starbucks, which she loves inordinately, if she stayed put with her Kindle and iPod for an hour. My hopes soared when the guy who sold me the shrimp gave me 20 instead of 12. "You just go through them so fast out here," he said.