5. Place the opposed biots at the hook bend with one on each side of the hook shank. Turn them so they are slightly off-center toward the near side of the hook.

6. Wrap two turns of thread over the biots to hold them in place on the near side of the hook. If you tie them in at a slight angle, thread torque pulls them onto the correct position. Pull the tying thread down to tighten the loops of thread and pull the biots on top of the hook shank.

7. Wrap forward over the butt ends of the biots to just in front of the hook point.

8. See photo for properly tied-in biot tails.

9. Continue wrapping forward over the butt ends of the biots up to and onto the lead wraps. The butt ends will help build the taper to the lead wraps.


10. Clip the butt ends of the biots and wrap a smooth thread base from the base of the tail to the three-quarter point on the shank. The thread base should be as smooth as possible and have an even taper from front to back.

11. Cut a length of copper wire about 6 or 8 inches long and tie it in at the front of the thread underbody on top of the hook.

12. Wrap back over the copper wire to the base of the tails. Make several tight turns of thread coming forward from the bend to secure the wire. Keep these thread wraps as smooth as possible.

13. Continue forward with the thread to the front end of the abdomen.


14. Begin wrapping the wire forward from the hook bend in tight, concentric turns. Tilting the wire back slightly as you wrap will allow the next wrap to roll off the edge of the previous wrap, butting the turns together. Continue wrapping the copper wire forward to the end of the thread underbody. Tie the wire off at the front edge of the underbody with two tight turns of thread. Clip the excess wire with a pair of nail clippers, or twist the remaining end around in a circle until it breaks off. Cover the stub end with a few turns of tying thread.


15. Cover the lead wraps between the copper wire abdomen and the back of the bead with a thin layer of thread. Only use enough thread to eliminate the spaces between the lead wire. Tie in a single strand of pearl Flashabou directly on top of the hook making certain that it is centered. Wrap back over the Flashabou and the front end of the copper abdomen so it is tied in back to the point shown.

16. Cut a strip of Thin Skin slightly narrower than the width of the hook gap. Leave the Thin Skin on the paper backing while you cut the strip. If you remove the whole sheet it will roll up into an unusable ball. After you cut the strip to the correct width, peel the Thin Skin strip from the paper backing. Tie the Thin Skin strip in on top of the hook shank at the front of the abdomen and wrap back over it to the 70 percent point on the hook shank. Tie the Thin Skin in with the shiny side (the side that was adhered to the paper backing) facing up.

17. Wrap the thread forward to a point just behind the bead.

18. Select five or six bushy peacock herls and trim their tips evenly. Tie the peacock in by its tips just behind the bead and wrap back over them to the base of the Thin Skin wing case. Return the thread to the back edge of the bead.

19. Wrap the peacock herls forward in tight, concentric, non-overlapping turns to the back of the bead and tie them off with a couple tight turns of thread.


20. Clip the excess peacock flush.

21. Pull a small clump of fibers from the side of a hen-back feather to align the tips. Peel the clump from the stem of the feather.

22. Lay the clump of hen fibers along the far side of the hook shank with the tips extending back to the hook point. Press the fibers against the hook with your index finger.

23. Make two turns of thread over the hen fibers right behind the bead.

24. Prepare and strip another like-sized clump of fibers from the hen feather. Tie this clump in along the near side of the hook.

25. Trim the butt ends from both clumps.


26. Pull the Thin Skin forward over the top of the peacock thorax and tie it down right behind the bead.

27. Pull the Flashabou over the top of the Thin Skin, making sure it runs down the center of the wing case. Tie the Flashabou down right behind the bead.

29. Clip the butt ends of the Flashabou and the Thin Skin as close to the bead as you can. Build a smooth thread head and whip-finish the thread.

30. Mix a small batch of epoxy and coat the wing case from front to back and side to side. It helps to run the epoxy up onto the back edge of the bead and down onto the wire at the back of the wing case.

31. Top view.