Don't stand in one place as you're throwing dummies for your dog to retrieve. He'll learn more if you throw from a new location each time. After every retrieve, leave the dog sitting and move a short distance away. Alternate throws to the left, right, and back, sending the dog with appropriate hand signals. He will comprehend that there is always an object to retrieve in whatever direction your hand indicates, no matter where you are. John Rice
About the Author: Jerome B. Robinson started writing for F&S in 1989 and was a regular contributor for many years, including his monthly tip column. Although he is a generalist, Robinson is best known for his writing on dog training and on hunting and fishing in the Far North.
Dog Training Tips from Jerome B. Robinson
When looking for a gun-dog pup, it’s advantageous to select one that was born in February, March, or April. Pups born in these months will be old enough to begin introductory field training by summer, and they’ll be large and mature enough to begin working wild birds in their first autumn. Bottom line: You’ll have an extra season of hunting with the dog.
RELATED: Three Key Tips for Training a Gun Dog
Dog Training Tips from Jerome B. Robinson
A gun dog on point may break too soon if you block the dog’s view while you’re trying to flush the bird. Instead, you should circle out well beyond where you think the bird is, then walk slowly toward the dog. the bird is more likely to hold when you approach from the far side, and the dog will also be encouraged to stay on point and let you do the flushing.
Dog Training Tips from Jerome B. Robinson
By using food treats rather than force, you can teach your dog to come every time you call. Start with short distances. Command the dog to come, and give it a snack when it obeys. Gradually lengthen the range. The dog will form a habit of coming when called, expecting a reward, instead of fearing punishment if it refuses. Gradually replace the food with a friendly pat.
Dog Training Tips from Jerome B. Robinson
Always hunt bird dogs into the wind. When forced to hunt with the breeze at their tails, dogs have to get past birds in order to smell them. This frustrates handlers, who think that the dogs are ranging too far. Most good bird dogs automatically limit their forward range and naturally sweep back and forth across their handler’s course when the hunt is conducted into the wind.
Dog Training Tips from Jerome B. Robinson
Retrieving dogs bring back more ducks and get the job done faster when they can see the action. Place the dog in a camouflage-covered box outside the dog handler’s end of the blind where its view of the skies will be clear. If the dog is not reliably steady, attach a very short strap from its collar to a ring bolted to the floor of the box.
Dog Training Tips from Jerome B. Robinson
When you send a bird dog to retrieve a distant cripple, make the job as uncomplicated as possible. Walk the dog to a spot downwind of where you last saw the bird, then send him straight into the wind. Bird dogs naturally quarter back and forth when running into the wind and are much more likely to find downed birds if they are given this advantage.
Dog Training Tips from Jerome B. Robinson
Don’t encourage your retriever to hit the water with the high-speed leaps you see at field trials. The leaps are impressive to watch, but in real hunting conditions, dogs that hit the water hard can get hurt by submerged rocks or logs. Instead, work your dog frequently where harmless but annoying underwater obstacles slow his entry. He will quickly learn to jump with caution.
Dog Training Tips from Jerome B. Robinson
Practice staunching a young bird dog on point by pushing his shoulders and hind end toward the bird. He will resist the pressure and push back against your hand, stiffening his point. Over time, he will think it was his idea to remain steady. As your dog absorbs the lesson, gradually delay flushing so that he learns to enjoy the anticipation of keeping the bird in place.
