


August 31, 2010
Deeter: New Fly Rods are Tougher than Ever
By Kirk Deeter
The "rod wars" are back on. I've already seen (or at least heard about) more new fly rods from manufacturers in advance of the upcoming International Fly Tackle Dealer (IFTD) trade show than I have seen in at least a decade.
And the number one feature that makes a lot of these rods different than past generations is that they are tougher. Oh sure, you'll hear claims of "lighter" and "more sensitive," but in reality, most anglers won't be able to feel or sense a 10% weight reduction in rod blanks. Pretty reel seats and fancy wraps only go so far in boosting sales. There's only so much potential rod companies can tap into on the "lightness and sensitivity" side. But they do have some potential to improve rods in the "bend but don't break" arena. And that means more profit.
When you buy a rod with a lifetime guarantee, you're really buying that rod and a built-in insurance policy. Say a rod company figures one out of every three rods sold comes back broken at some point. Sell consumers 1.33 rods, and the risk is minimized... or sort of. Despite passing the risk/cost on to consumers, and despite having jacked up the "processing fees" to fix broken rods in the past few years (it can now cost $50 or more to get your "free" rod replacement), a lot of the big companies still lose millions a year on rod warranties. One industry insider I talked with (whose company eats about $2 million a year replacing broken rods) said that the rod warranty is still one of the biggest disasters ever to hit the fly rod world. And I'm not sure most consumers even like it.
Nevertheless, Orvis, for example has seen far less breakage with its great Helios rod series, and that has translated into dollars saved by the company. A lot of the new buzz around new rods coming out, e.g. Loomis NRX, and Hardy Sintrix, and St. Croix Elite, revolves around a resin technology that significantly toughens the rods. The early indications are pretty impressive, as seen in this Hardy break test video.
You're going to hear a lot about "faster, lighter, and tougher" and some (or all) of that will be true. But it's the "tougher" part that's the real breakthrough, and the real motivation for the new rod renaissance.
In any regard, your options are increasing exponentially. And while nothing is going to survive being slammed in a screen door or eaten by a dog, the days of delicate and dainty fly rods may be nearing an end.
Deeter
Comments (19)
I'm all for tougher rods. I am careful about doors and dogs, but IM8 rods to date have shown me that I'm way too tough on my equipment on the water and I'm tired of paying $50 for new rods under what was supposed to be an unconditional warranty. They don't tell you about the "processing fees" for warranties when you buy the rod. I'd much rather have a rod that I can expect to last for 5-10 years save for acts of God than spend an average of $30-50 (plus a few months wait time for processing) on a replacement rod every couple years.
I have always had a problem purchasing a rod with a lifetime guarantee. I look at it as spending $500 on a $250 rod with a warranty. I would rather have a manufacturer willing to repair a rod at a lessor price then sell me an insurance policy.
I have always thought G. Loomis had the market cornered on resin technology. They make a very strong rod with a hollow (sensitive) tip that appears very durable. (knock on wood).
Marketing.......I hope it drives the price of other rods and blanks down. I don't know why they havn't made a fiberglass/graphite blend flyrod, it would be the best of both worlds I would think.
I don't know if the new toughness will increase the bend, the load placed on a rod without breaking, OR, it will prevent the fractures that occurring from a hard object. A wt'd fly, or just a big hook fly can slam into a rod at high speed, and cause a fracture...then when the rod bends it breaks at that point, and the angler blames it on a mfg'er failure. I've seen anglers, mostly lure anglers driving down the road with the tips of their rods laying on the tailgate, and vibrating, going down the road. And if you are into casting for distance?...just look at the diameter of the rod tip. Rods that can layout line will have THIN rod tips...bigger diameter tips are heavier, and do not bend, and recover as fast as thinner, lighter tips. But thinner relates to easier to break from a ding as well. Ever see a fly guy thread the line through his rod, and then pull straight down trying to get the line out of the rod guides only bending the tip?! The rod depends on a HOOP bend to distribute the load, not just a crimp put on the thin tip. I had a sport sitting in the passenger seat with the rod straight up in the air trying to get line out of the rod guides, and when we stopped to fish he needed another rod to fish with...broke the tip section of his rod trying to get line out of the rod And another no no. You see salt water guys with their left hand(rt handed) up the butt section of the rod applying pressure to the fish. Rods designed to do that have a cork grip up the rod butt for that purpose, and the rod is beefed up in the butt section. Rods that do not have that cork, fighting grip are not designed to place your hand up the rod butt, and apply pressure...your hand area of the rod then becomes an excessive, pressure point..but I do it, hopefully knowing how much pressure I am applying.
koldkut...they have. Earlier rods were called "composite" rods, and you did not know how much of the cheaper glass was in the rod. I could look at the rod butt, and see how thick it was to tell it had a lot of glass in the rod. Rods with 96% graphite were then deemed to be all graphite rods, and casted with the fast recovery properties of graphite, even though they had 4% glass included, and used as the wrap on the outside of the blank assisting hoop strength, and blank uniformity. Good rods have 100% graphite now I think? I am pretty sure of that.
That's great news.
My question, though: apart from mere reputation and anecdotal information, how will we know which high-functioning rods are also the toughest?
Why don't you do an article on it, Deeter? Maybe come up with a few standardized breakage tests, then apply them to all the new "tougher" rods. You can then help us separate the hype from the facts.
The toughest rods I've seen are Shakespeare's UGLY STICKS! I wouldn't want any of my customers near my good flyrods after I see someone test out an ugly stick for toughness like in the commericials....worse thing that ever happened to good fly rods!
And I like Ugly Sticks for what they are used for, and the folks that buy them....throw them in the rig, pile stuff on top of them, and go fishin.
Say, those ugly stick fly rods weigh a ton, I'd never be able to throw one of those all day without developing a lopsided physique. I like my all graphite fly rods, and I've got another one on my mind. But composites are nice for strength. My favorite ice rods are composites, friends can't break them and they are still sensitive enough to meet their needs.
koldkut..I didn't know they made an Ugly Stick flyrod. I relate to their baitcasting/spinning rods. The tips are solid "glass", and the longer ones are very heavy. I've picked up their shorter, spinning rods, and could have a fun time with them. They aren't very heavy because of their shorter length. Guys will come in a store, and grab and ugly stick by the butt and the tip, and bend the tip around to the handle...YEEE GAWDS! You just hope they have sense enough not to try it with an expensive fly rod!
Deet ~ I'm sure my 7wt Helios Switch Rod is tough enough to outlive me. I plan on being buried with it when that day comes! Only one forseeable problem here...the casket needs to be 11 feet long.
Even though tougher rods are saving the makers money they sure don't seem to be passing the "insurance" savings on to us. But breaking a fly rod after a long haul to the stream in the middle of a hatch turns one's stomach enough to make the extra cost worth it.
I put together a Hexagraph last winter and used it this summer - I doubt it is unbreakable but should be pretty close. Have to appreciate a slower action, though.
Woodstock...
Read my mind (and thanks for the suggestion). I want to take a bunch of rods, and then do something really tough (a la the motorcycle reel test)... I'm thinking about tying them to a bowling ball, and then rolling the bowling ball off a cliff or something. Then I want to send the rods back in for warranty replacement, and time how long, track how much, and gauge how well the overall customer service aspect works. I personally agree with Buckhunter (might be the last time I say anything nice about a Buckeye for the next few months)... the warranty is a price shoved down the consumer's throat... but it's also gagging the manufacturer. The ONLY way out is by making tougher rods. I'm really interested in finding out where the smoke is v. where the real fire is.
Kirk said: And I'm not sure most consumers even like it.
I might be reading this wrong but who doesn't like a life Warranty? It is one of the incentives I look for when purchasing. As for Orvis their 25 yr. policy suites me fine at my age, but the others with a life time warranty are fantastic! Out of the 20 + rods I own I've only had to send two back. So now the tougher the rod that % will decrease, inclusive of the great action of the new rods and we're going to have some really wonderful tools for the activity of choice.
I should have been more clear... I'm not sure everyone likes paying extra to cover a built-in warranty. Of course, when I slam the rod in a screen door... the warranty is the best thing in the world. But, when I add up the number of rods I break (and I assume I break more than average... guide trips, etc.), I would still guess that I'm in the red.
I think you guys are way, way over thinking how tough a decent flyrod is...they break from sharp blows, trust me. Any rod that is tough enough to withstand abuse won't cast very well. I'll take a good casting rod over a bullet proof rod.
OK, I've got a good contest to see how bad that 2x to 4x connection is using a blood knot, BUT, you have to make one more wrap with the 4x than you do the 2x, and use name brand tippet material. Here's the test. Tie the 4x tippet using a standard clinch knot to something stationary, and put a bend in a Deeter, xtra strong flyrod, say a 5, or even a 6wt. Bend the rod till something breaks. I say the rod will break before the 4x.
In 50 years of flyfishing I broke one rod - I lay it across the handlebars of my motorcycle and drove home from the Beaverkill in waders. The first sharp turn snaped the tip in half. The rod maker, the late Vince Cummings, made me a new tip and scolded me for ruining his handiwork. I have since given up motorcycles, my rods remain intact.
The rod companies need gimicks to make people buy new tackle. Once in a blue moon there is a meaningful improvement. Most of the time, its just PR. I am not aware that the graceful graphite rods of the 80's have been improved upon....you can buy them on e*** for under $100. they just don't help sell fishing magazines.
David Bershtein
www.fishingwithdaughters.com
daughters guy....I'd definitely take exception to that opinion on graphite flyrod development/improvement. I pick up one of my early 80's IM-6 Sage Graphites, and marvel and just can feel the wt. difference, and the thinness that moves the rod through the air better. The castability of the newer rods is very recognizable, and impressive. An 8wt graphite from a good rod maker feels like a 5wt of yesteryear. The improvement in epoxy resins like Deeter said, and the higher modulus graphite fiber matting that can use less graphite, and get as strong, but lighter rods that recover faster, and create more line speed is very impressive. It is a joke when you think of a 3wt rod, that is supposedly made for small flies, and shorter casts to be able to throw the entire flyline with one of them.
Nice one. How do you guys do that? Your posts are awesome and has been one of the sources I have when I write about fly fishing stuffs and I do post it here on my own site http://www.sammaka.com/ Hoping you could pay a visit and let me know what you think of it. Thanks ahead :)
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That's great news.
My question, though: apart from mere reputation and anecdotal information, how will we know which high-functioning rods are also the toughest?
Why don't you do an article on it, Deeter? Maybe come up with a few standardized breakage tests, then apply them to all the new "tougher" rods. You can then help us separate the hype from the facts.
Woodstock...
Read my mind (and thanks for the suggestion). I want to take a bunch of rods, and then do something really tough (a la the motorcycle reel test)... I'm thinking about tying them to a bowling ball, and then rolling the bowling ball off a cliff or something. Then I want to send the rods back in for warranty replacement, and time how long, track how much, and gauge how well the overall customer service aspect works. I personally agree with Buckhunter (might be the last time I say anything nice about a Buckeye for the next few months)... the warranty is a price shoved down the consumer's throat... but it's also gagging the manufacturer. The ONLY way out is by making tougher rods. I'm really interested in finding out where the smoke is v. where the real fire is.
In 50 years of flyfishing I broke one rod - I lay it across the handlebars of my motorcycle and drove home from the Beaverkill in waders. The first sharp turn snaped the tip in half. The rod maker, the late Vince Cummings, made me a new tip and scolded me for ruining his handiwork. I have since given up motorcycles, my rods remain intact.
The rod companies need gimicks to make people buy new tackle. Once in a blue moon there is a meaningful improvement. Most of the time, its just PR. I am not aware that the graceful graphite rods of the 80's have been improved upon....you can buy them on e*** for under $100. they just don't help sell fishing magazines.
David Bershtein
www.fishingwithdaughters.com
I'm all for tougher rods. I am careful about doors and dogs, but IM8 rods to date have shown me that I'm way too tough on my equipment on the water and I'm tired of paying $50 for new rods under what was supposed to be an unconditional warranty. They don't tell you about the "processing fees" for warranties when you buy the rod. I'd much rather have a rod that I can expect to last for 5-10 years save for acts of God than spend an average of $30-50 (plus a few months wait time for processing) on a replacement rod every couple years.
I have always had a problem purchasing a rod with a lifetime guarantee. I look at it as spending $500 on a $250 rod with a warranty. I would rather have a manufacturer willing to repair a rod at a lessor price then sell me an insurance policy.
I have always thought G. Loomis had the market cornered on resin technology. They make a very strong rod with a hollow (sensitive) tip that appears very durable. (knock on wood).
Marketing.......I hope it drives the price of other rods and blanks down. I don't know why they havn't made a fiberglass/graphite blend flyrod, it would be the best of both worlds I would think.
I don't know if the new toughness will increase the bend, the load placed on a rod without breaking, OR, it will prevent the fractures that occurring from a hard object. A wt'd fly, or just a big hook fly can slam into a rod at high speed, and cause a fracture...then when the rod bends it breaks at that point, and the angler blames it on a mfg'er failure. I've seen anglers, mostly lure anglers driving down the road with the tips of their rods laying on the tailgate, and vibrating, going down the road. And if you are into casting for distance?...just look at the diameter of the rod tip. Rods that can layout line will have THIN rod tips...bigger diameter tips are heavier, and do not bend, and recover as fast as thinner, lighter tips. But thinner relates to easier to break from a ding as well. Ever see a fly guy thread the line through his rod, and then pull straight down trying to get the line out of the rod guides only bending the tip?! The rod depends on a HOOP bend to distribute the load, not just a crimp put on the thin tip. I had a sport sitting in the passenger seat with the rod straight up in the air trying to get line out of the rod guides, and when we stopped to fish he needed another rod to fish with...broke the tip section of his rod trying to get line out of the rod And another no no. You see salt water guys with their left hand(rt handed) up the butt section of the rod applying pressure to the fish. Rods designed to do that have a cork grip up the rod butt for that purpose, and the rod is beefed up in the butt section. Rods that do not have that cork, fighting grip are not designed to place your hand up the rod butt, and apply pressure...your hand area of the rod then becomes an excessive, pressure point..but I do it, hopefully knowing how much pressure I am applying.
koldkut...they have. Earlier rods were called "composite" rods, and you did not know how much of the cheaper glass was in the rod. I could look at the rod butt, and see how thick it was to tell it had a lot of glass in the rod. Rods with 96% graphite were then deemed to be all graphite rods, and casted with the fast recovery properties of graphite, even though they had 4% glass included, and used as the wrap on the outside of the blank assisting hoop strength, and blank uniformity. Good rods have 100% graphite now I think? I am pretty sure of that.
The toughest rods I've seen are Shakespeare's UGLY STICKS! I wouldn't want any of my customers near my good flyrods after I see someone test out an ugly stick for toughness like in the commericials....worse thing that ever happened to good fly rods!
And I like Ugly Sticks for what they are used for, and the folks that buy them....throw them in the rig, pile stuff on top of them, and go fishin.
Say, those ugly stick fly rods weigh a ton, I'd never be able to throw one of those all day without developing a lopsided physique. I like my all graphite fly rods, and I've got another one on my mind. But composites are nice for strength. My favorite ice rods are composites, friends can't break them and they are still sensitive enough to meet their needs.
koldkut..I didn't know they made an Ugly Stick flyrod. I relate to their baitcasting/spinning rods. The tips are solid "glass", and the longer ones are very heavy. I've picked up their shorter, spinning rods, and could have a fun time with them. They aren't very heavy because of their shorter length. Guys will come in a store, and grab and ugly stick by the butt and the tip, and bend the tip around to the handle...YEEE GAWDS! You just hope they have sense enough not to try it with an expensive fly rod!
Deet ~ I'm sure my 7wt Helios Switch Rod is tough enough to outlive me. I plan on being buried with it when that day comes! Only one forseeable problem here...the casket needs to be 11 feet long.
Even though tougher rods are saving the makers money they sure don't seem to be passing the "insurance" savings on to us. But breaking a fly rod after a long haul to the stream in the middle of a hatch turns one's stomach enough to make the extra cost worth it.
I put together a Hexagraph last winter and used it this summer - I doubt it is unbreakable but should be pretty close. Have to appreciate a slower action, though.
Kirk said: And I'm not sure most consumers even like it.
I might be reading this wrong but who doesn't like a life Warranty? It is one of the incentives I look for when purchasing. As for Orvis their 25 yr. policy suites me fine at my age, but the others with a life time warranty are fantastic! Out of the 20 + rods I own I've only had to send two back. So now the tougher the rod that % will decrease, inclusive of the great action of the new rods and we're going to have some really wonderful tools for the activity of choice.
I should have been more clear... I'm not sure everyone likes paying extra to cover a built-in warranty. Of course, when I slam the rod in a screen door... the warranty is the best thing in the world. But, when I add up the number of rods I break (and I assume I break more than average... guide trips, etc.), I would still guess that I'm in the red.
I think you guys are way, way over thinking how tough a decent flyrod is...they break from sharp blows, trust me. Any rod that is tough enough to withstand abuse won't cast very well. I'll take a good casting rod over a bullet proof rod.
OK, I've got a good contest to see how bad that 2x to 4x connection is using a blood knot, BUT, you have to make one more wrap with the 4x than you do the 2x, and use name brand tippet material. Here's the test. Tie the 4x tippet using a standard clinch knot to something stationary, and put a bend in a Deeter, xtra strong flyrod, say a 5, or even a 6wt. Bend the rod till something breaks. I say the rod will break before the 4x.
daughters guy....I'd definitely take exception to that opinion on graphite flyrod development/improvement. I pick up one of my early 80's IM-6 Sage Graphites, and marvel and just can feel the wt. difference, and the thinness that moves the rod through the air better. The castability of the newer rods is very recognizable, and impressive. An 8wt graphite from a good rod maker feels like a 5wt of yesteryear. The improvement in epoxy resins like Deeter said, and the higher modulus graphite fiber matting that can use less graphite, and get as strong, but lighter rods that recover faster, and create more line speed is very impressive. It is a joke when you think of a 3wt rod, that is supposedly made for small flies, and shorter casts to be able to throw the entire flyline with one of them.
Nice one. How do you guys do that? Your posts are awesome and has been one of the sources I have when I write about fly fishing stuffs and I do post it here on my own site http://www.sammaka.com/ Hoping you could pay a visit and let me know what you think of it. Thanks ahead :)
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